JANUARY 2019 EDITOR'S NOTE

Showtime: Berlin!

Welcome to Berlin Fashion Week

another exciting year starts and people are yet again arriving in the German capital to discover the latest fashion trends and collections.

The usual trade shows are gearing up and are more and more curated as one can see from Premium's changing layout.

To gain more information about the fashion sector and educate yourself further, we recommend to attend #FashionTech the 15th of January where interesting speakers will discuss the future of fashion especially in regards to the technology sector.

The 16th, Neonyt's Fashionsustain will then take over the speaker's floor and discuss sustainable trends within our industry. Do not miss this as the end-consumer is more and more focused on this topic.

Messe Frankfurt's format Neonyt is expanding this season and offers a diversified programme and the same ticket will let you attend also the shows of Premium Exhibition, so it is well worth it spending 3 days in Berlin.

Our team will as always report about the shows on our Buyers Guide to keep you informed, up-to-date and show you the highlights.

As always, we look forward to your comments.

See you soon and have a successful show season,

Klaus Vogel

Editor & Publisher

Montgomery
VOICES Premium Berlin

Life with WeAr: relaxed at the premium WeAr lounge

VOICES Premium Berlin
Velt

Patrick Rüegg

“We come from a product design background. Our idea was to make a classic leather shoe that’s contemporary – sneakers scream modern but classic shoes haven’t changed for hundreds of years. I’m from the sneaker generation so it was a real challenge for me! We launched in 2013. All the shoes are made in Switzerland and our first collection won the Swiss Design Award. Then we started to work with new tannery and added bags to our offer – these are made in Budapest. We presently work with a tannery in Bavaria that only used cows from the area that are free range. Leather is a controversial material: we are aware of it and only work with European suppliers whose processes we know well. This is our first time in Premium in several years: we are here to grow our German clientele.”

Impressions at SEEK

VOICES SEEK
SH’U

“We are a waterproof outerwear brand from St Petersburg, Russia – so we know a thing or two about bad weather! We’ve been going since 2012. We started with raincoats and then launched extra warm winter jackets for men and women; now we also do T-shirts and jeans, but outerwear remains our main focus. We use DuPont’s Sorona fibre for insulation, allowing us to produce lightweight, super warm jackets. The price point is extremely competitive at 88 euros wholesale. We are growing our international presence very rapidly, and SEEK is a great place for that.”

VOICES SEEK
Dedicated

Johan Graffner

Founder

“We are a Swedish sustainable brand. We started as a retail concept in 2006, when we opened stores with sustainable clothing under a different name and soon had franchises in Moscow, Shanghai, Tokyo, London, Leeds, Oslo etc. In 2012 we rebranded and started as a Menswear and lifestyle brand. Interestingly, there is a number of sustainable lines in the market for babies, kids and women, but very few for men, and that’s what we are changing. Our collections are born out of collaborations with artists, photographers and illustrators. Our key markets are Germany, Holland, Belgium, France, Italy, and Scandinavia. Prices start from 35 euros retail to 320 euros for jackets. Everything is GOTS-certified.

We come to SEEK because Germany is one of our key markets, because the brand mix is good and the people are friendly, and because the stands are pre-built, meaning that there isn’t any unnecessary container shipping so that’s more sustainable. We also show at Neonyt.”

Second Female booth at Premium

VOICES Premium Berlin
Scandinavian Edition

Casper Bech

“In 2010, we started thinking of merging the mountain jacket with city fashion. We did a test run of 2 jackets in 2013, they sold well, and in 2015 we launched our first range. We wanted to base it on Scandinavian architecture and furniture design from the 50s and 60s: minimalism and functionality are the keywords for us. The quality is exceptional so our jackets last longer than average. They have a number of special features, including taped and sealed seams that guarantee waterproof properties, ergonomically shaped sleeves, fleece-lined pockets and a reflective fold-down strap that makes the wearer visible in the dark. The jackets are waterproof, windproof and insulated to withstand temperatures in the region of -15 to -20 C. We started by selling through the best stores in Norway and Denmark, then got a call from Danish special forces so now we are doing final tests and preparing to kit them out in our jackets. We also supply royalty in Denmark and Monaco and some A-listers like Hugh Grant. Our key markets are Scandinavia and D-A-CH countries. We have been away from Premium for a few seasons but are happy to be back now as our price points (jackets retail at 599 to 670 euros) work best for premium customers.”

VOICES Premium Berlin
Ecoalf

Javier Goyeneche

President and Founder

“We are a Spanish company. The idea of starting a sustainable line first came to me in 2010 when my son Alfredo was just born – the hence the “alf” in the name. However, back then there weren’t any recycled fabrics on the market that would be good enough, so I had to develop my own. It took a few years, and in 2013 we launched. We recycle everything: plastic bottles found at the bottom of the ocean, fishing nets, used ground coffee, wool, cotton… So everything in our collections is 100% recycled, but you wouldn’t tell. Our shoes, for instance, are made from bottles found in the ocean and algae. We manufacture where we get the waste from: our fishing nets come from Korea, other materials come from Portugal etc. The prices are competitive: shoes retail at 70 to 120 euros, jackets at 150 to 400. We have agents in most European countries and in Japan. Here at Premium we only show a small proportion of our collection – we see the fair mostly as a window, as a chance to explain who we are and tell the story of how we work with over 3000 fishermen who pass on the bottles they find in the sea to our recycling plants.”

VOICES Premium Berlin
Postyr

“We are a 1.5-year-old brand from Denmark, part of Bestseller company. Edgy but wearable, we are all about mixing and matching. Tailoring, especially blazers and trousers, and dresses are our key product categories. Our fabrics include silk, alpaca and organic cotton, but we strive to keep our prices very competitive to allow for 3.0 markup for our clients: dresses start at 99 euros retail, outerwear at 269 euros. We are very happy to be at Premium: we got 10 new customers today!”

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

NEONYT Show

Impressions from the NEONYT Catwalk (images: MBFW)

VOICES Premium Berlin

We are a Berlin brand but we don’t often show at trade shows. Here at Premium, we are showing our new season as well as our carry-over line, Assorted. The latter is a unisex collection that comes in all sizes, from items for 3-months old babies to XXL. The idea is to let small children and big men (and women) alike wear the same prints, handmade in our own production facilities. The bestselling prints are polka dots, circles and big squares; we also have more topical prints, like emoji and internet symbols or various cartoon characters. As everything is handmade, no print is the same. Take, for example, the mosaic print on the bag for example – every piece of it is cut by hand and placed where the printer decides, so all the combinations are unique, although there are colour guidelines that are followed. The items are made on demand and can be supplied very quickly – that’s the beauty of using our printing plant.

As for the seasonal collection, this season it’s a collaboration with the French artist Sadaane Afif who’s had shows at the Pompidou. But it’s not your usual artist collaboration where the artist draws you a print: instead, he has come up with several archetypal characters – the Professor, the Tourist, the Dancer, The Fortuneteller etc. – and we needed to dream up some clothes for them. Now that we’ve ‘dressed’ them (this is what the collection is about), he will do make a story about them but we don’t yet know what it will be. All we know is that it will result in a performance at some point. The Fortuneteller’s sayings have found their place as those somewhat cryptic – but legible if you think hard enough! – pieces of writing on our garments and other themes are scattered around the prints and the cuts.

VOICES Premium Berlin

Roy Robson event

VOICES Premium Berlin

Land Rover by Clarks with a winning formula.

VOICES Premium Berlin
2nd Day

“This season we (2nd Day) are launching Thinking Twice, our new sustainable line comprising denim and T-shirts. Denim, from this line as well as the main denim collection, is a crucial product category and is, as always, equipped with adorable quirky details, such as the sequinned turn-ups. In the main collection, long printed prairie dresses are key, as are oversized puffer jackets in bright colours.”

VOICES Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist

Impressions from Selvedge Run and Zeitgeist

VOICES Panorama

Womenswear trends Panorama Hall 1

VOICES Premium Berlin
Shockly

Paolo Perenzin

Sales Manager

“Shockly is a sister brand of Dimattia, an Italian company with a 20-year history. Shockly is a younger, more energetic line – although my father does wear it too! Fluorescent yellow is at the core of our DNA. It’s a shocking colour, hence our brand name. Each piece has special details, like piping or stitching, in this colour. The prices points are exceptionally competitive: the wholesale price for down jackets is 50 euros, knits are 32 euros. As we are based in Conegliano – the city of Prosecco where around 200 companies make their wine – we have also launched our own Prosecco, Pro Shockly, that we supply to our retail partners. This is our second time at Premium. At the moment we are hoping to grow our presence in certain territories – for instance, we are looking for an agent in the U.K.”

VOICES Premium Berlin

Marlino finest sportive lambskin coats and reversible jackets in Merino and Toscana qualities.

VOICES Premium Berlin

Cool items for Concept stores.

VOICES Premium Berlin

Roy Robson affordable premium made in Europe with a strong focus on fittings.

VOICES Premium

Busy Premium!

VOICES Neonyt

Talents united at Neonyt