Constantly monitoring strategic markets for Italian footwear exports remains high amongst Assocalzaturifici’s priorities. Because of this Obuv’ Mir Koži, the international exhibition of footwear and leather goods organised at the Moscow Expocentre from March 19th to 22nd, continues to be a reference point in the world of international trade fairs dedicated to the sector.
130 Italian brands will be present at the event that, over four days, will present the Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collections to buyers and members of the trade from the Republics of the Russian Federation and the states that gravitate in the commercial orbit of the Eurasian giant – like Belarus, Kazakhstan, and Ukraine. Obuv’ Mir Koži, in fact, after Milan’s Micam remains the most prestigious international showcase and guarantees excellent visibility to Italian footwear companies, as well as reflecting the vitality and fervour of a market that pays great attention to the creativity, quality and craftsmanship that goes into a product – all factors that have always characterised our “know-how”.
In 2017, more than 6.3 million pairs of Italian shoes were exported to Russia, for a total value of 380 million euros. In the first eleven months of 2018, Italy exported 5.2 million pairs, worth 316 million euros (down to 11.5% compared to the same period in 2017). Despite the unfavourable trend, Russia confirmed itself as the sixth reference market in terms of value and the eighth for volume in the world ranking of destination countries.
Fashion Box, the company that owns the Replay brand, has experienced a decidedly positive 2018. With revenues of €237.9 million and EBITDA of €21.7 million (up 21% on the previous year), the Group is set to accelerate its pace of growth in 2019. Fashion Box is historically an internationally-oriented company, as exports account for 85% of its total sales.
In view of its international expansion, last year Fashion Box entered into a strategic partnership arrangement with Reliance Brands Limited for distribution in India of Replay casual wear, footwear and accessories. The agreement, which came into being concretely with the deliveries for Spring/Summer 2019, will be based on a multi-channel distribution, with retail stores – with the opening of 2 flagship stores in Delhi and Mumbai in the next few months, as well as mono- brand stores and shops-in-shop in the most prestigious malls of the country – and through key e- commerce players in India.
Japan deserves a special mention, as the brand continues to grow through highly selective distribution in the main local department stores.
The Company’s growth plan also leverages on the Joint Venture entered into in December with Fashion Company for the distribution of the clothing, footwear and accessory lines in some of the main markets of Eastern Europe. The Joint Venture, majority-owned by Fashion Box, will become operational in Fall/Winter 2019 and expects to develop markets for the Replay products in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro and Romania, both through the opening of 8 mono-brand stores by 2021 and the development of the wholesale channel.
In addition, Fashion Box is paying great attention to the Latin American market, which today for the brand is no longer just an opportunity but a tangible, important and fast-growing reality. Thanks to 5 mono-brand stores and 2 outlets opened between April 2017 and December 2018, Brazil is currently the main market for the brand in Latin America. Replay Jeans do Brasil is also active in the wholesale channel and distributes the Replay brand through a network of 200 multi- brand retail stores in the country.
Another important market is Colombia, where, in addition to the two mono-brand stores opened in Bogota and Medellin at the end of last year, the Company will inaugurate 5 retail stores by 2022 and will continue with a wholesale distribution, which is already operational, serving multi-brand stores in strategic locations throughout the country and high-level accounts. Replay is also present in Paraguay, with a store in Asuncion and a corner in the department store of Ciudad del Este.
In the European market Replay continued its own strengthening, with a double-digit organic growth rate in the wholesale channel, and particularly brilliant results in Northern and Central Europe, thanks to a very positive sell-through in the last few seasons.
Givenchy will be the Guest Designer at Pitti Immagine Uomo no. 96, taking place in Florence from 11th till 14th June 2019.
“It is a huge honor for us to host the runway debut of the Givenchy men’s collection under the creative direction of Clare Waight Keller” says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine’s director of communication and special events. “A strong, modern and elegant vision: it is the perfect project for Pitti Uomo. I am certain that the atmospheres and spaces of Florence will offer Givenchy further aesthetic and symbolic motivations for concentrating on men’s fashion”.
For S/S 2019, Stone Island presents its seasonal camouflage which is thermosensitive and replicates a particular morphing, digitally elaborated to create an optical illusion at a distance, emphasised by the printed Heat Reactive fabric.
The garments are in cotton ripstop, printed with a permanent colour and three colours that react with temperature changes. The printed pattern considerably mutes and morphs when exposed to heat.
A culture of an all-around improvement is what defines ISKO’s approach to denim production, allowing the thriving of technological and creative potential of the company and its resources.
On March 6th and 7th, the world leading ingredient brand hosted a 360° Denim Seminar to share its vision and expertise with key industry players, brands and designers. As the name suggests, the initiative was an all-out experience that took place right on the grounds where ISKO denim happens: the factory’s headquarters.
Here a special highlight was the opening of its new state-of-the-art distribution center. This space – 40 meters high, 80 meters long and 45 meters wide – and has 128,000 cells/ locations, each is able to contain a fabric roll that can hold up to 500 meters of material. Seven automated robots process every single order, in a controlled environment where oxygen levels are kept at 16,4% to prevent oxidation and fires. As normal oxygen levels in the air is 21%, no human beings are employed here.
The two-day event covered denim from A to Z, providing tools and know-how on everything from fiber to final garment. The occasion was a chance for the audience to learn about new fashion trends and ISKO’s latest sustainable achievements through its commitment to Responsible Innovation. ISKO keeps being at the forefront in terms of competence, creativity and citizenship.
COTERIE, the premier global event within the New York marketplace that bridges women’s apparel and accessory designers to the international ‘Who’s Who’ of retailers, opened the February show with its first-ever live photo shoot, and a series panels covering ethical and sustainable fashion, the power of brick and mortar, and the business of influencers.
This season, COTERIE produced its first-ever live photo shoot featuring upcoming styles and trends from the FW ’19 season. The two-day shoot, styled by William Graper and Jeff Lasota, exclusively showcased apparel and accessories from the show’s current designers and brands. Attendees experienced the behind-the-scenes production of a real-time editorial shoot including live styling, photography by Mani Zarrin, model grooming, and photo editing.
In addition, COTERIE hosted a series of panels dedicated to discussing sustainability, retail, and influencer relations with some of the industry’s top voices. Panels included “The Daily x COTERIE Fashion Influencer Panel”, Conscious Fashion Campaigns’ “The Future of Fashion” panel, and “The Power of Brick & Mortar” presented by Sofia Karvela of Le Board.
Momonì confirms its growth path for 2019 by announcing 3 new openings, two in France and one in Italy.
In fact, the two countries have always been the reference markets for a strong brand with a turnover which, for the current year, expects to close at 15.5 million euro, of which 50% of revenues come from the Italian territory.
After the first Roman opening in the last month of October, the brand doubled in the Capitoline city with a new showcase in the prestigious Via del Babbuino 106, thus bringing the number of single-brand stores in the Belpaese to 9.
In Paris, in the heart of the Marais, and in Lyon, in the prestigious Carré d’Or, there are other new boutiques that confirm the importance of France in Momonì’s retail strategy, which alone accounts for over 20% of its foreign revenues.
An important milestone for Momonì, which has always focused on a strategy that favours the distribution of its collections, which have become synonymous with femininity and trends, in mono-brand boutiques and in selected multi-brand showcases.
Assocalzaturifici and EMI are launching two events in CIS countries: “La Moda Italiana@Almaty” in Kazakhstan, March 5 through 7, and “La Moda Italiana@Kiev” in Ukraine, March 11 and 12. The two events are based on the successful formula of “Shoes from Italy”, a footwear event Assocalzaturifici organised in Kazakhstan and Ukraine for more than a decade, expanded to include the entire fashion industry and present the retail market with a single event offering an all-Italian “total look”.
The support of ITA Agency with the promotion of the initiative among footwear dealers and the practical assistance of ITA Almaty and ITA Kiev in on-site organisation complete the infrastructure of this important event for the fashion industry
“The Kazakh market has not yet overcome the financial difficulties resulting from Russia’s economic crisis,” says Marino Fabiani, Assocalzaturifici adviser responsible for business in the CIS area. “The banking system is experiencing difficulty, and the currency, the tenge, is still weak compared to the euro and the dollar. This makes life harder for our clients, and consumer demand is not high either. Yet the figures for the first ten months of last year suggest a partial upswing in the volume of Italian exports to the country. After all, Kazakhstan is the second largest market in the CIS area, and above all it demonstrates a strong interest in quality Italian footwear, which its high-spending clientèle are not ready to give up”.
At the most recent edition of the Thinkathon on 14th and 15th January 2019 in Berlin, 40 international experts took on tasks set by the challenge hosts Bikini Berlin, Otto Group and TCBL. During the innovative workshop format, which was organised by Messe Frankfurt as part of the Neonyt trade fair, six multidisciplinary teams came up with sustainable business strategies and forward-looking concepts on the subjects of the circular economy, experience retail and industry 4.0 within 48 hours.
The Neonyt Thinkathon is a radical design-thinking format established by Messe Frankfurt. It involves multidisciplinary teams developing future-oriented approaches for the sustainability transformation of the fashion and textile industry. The Thinkathon brings together progressive companies from the fashion and textile industry with the unique Neonyt network. So-called challenge hosts – concept shopping mall Bikini Berlin, the Otto Group and EU project TCBL (Textile and Clothing Business Labs) at the most recent Thinkathon – each come up with a challenge on a specific subject area, which two international teams have just 48 hours to work on. The Thinkathon was organised on behalf of Messe Frankfurt by Berlin agency Sourcebook.
In January, experts from the fields of fashion, textile, architecture, technology, marketing and research came from a total of 19 nations and transformed the Old Smithy’s Dizzle event location, an old barn in the heart of Berlin, into a collaborative ideas workshop for two days. Each of the challenges was tackled by two of the six small groups so all three challenge hosts, Otto Group, Bikini Berlin and TCBL, were presented with two completely different solutions at the end of the Thinkathon.
In a video, excerpts of the workshop results were then presented on the Fashionsustain conference stage to an international audience of professionals. Like the Thinkathon, Fashionsustain is also a part of Neonyt, the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation, which celebrated its premiere during Berlin Fashion Week at Kraftwerk and was developed by Messe Frankfurt as a fusion of the successful tradeshow duo Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin.
The BoF China Summit is an invitation-only event that brings together a dynamic group of business leaders propelling the fashion industry forward. With this year’s theme focused on Modern Entrepreneurship, expected are candid conversations about changes happening in the entrepreneurial journey and valuable insight drawn from the startup experiences of inspirational speakers across the luxury, retail, tech and beauty sectors within China’s fast-moving fashion industry. The event is taking place on March 28th, 2019 in Shanghai.
Key speakers are as follows:
· Shangguan Zhe, creative director, Sankuanz
· Andrew Wu, group president of Greater China, LVMH Group
· Ganesh Srivats, chief executive, Moda Operandi
· Lauren Santo Domingo, co-founder & chief brand officer, Moda Operandi
· Edison Chen, co-founder, Clot
· Gary Shi, brand account general manager, Xiaohongshu
· Cai Chongda, chief executive, Magmode
· OIB China, founder & general manager, Wu Zhigang
· Benny Dong, beauty vlogger & founder, Croxx