MICAM, the footwear industry’s key international trade event, reaffirms its role as a fashion forecaster thanks to research carried out by WGSN on the trends expected to dominate next year’s autumn-winter season.
1. Considered comfort, inspired by soft, comfortable materials for an indoor-outdoor look that pushes dress-code boundaries; 2. Tech-tility, which focuses on the relationship between actual and virtual reality and uses tech materials and innovation to create futuristic accessories; 3. Reconstructed Legacy, which looks to the past to find new solutions for the future, with a strong focus on sustainability.
1. Considered comfort
Considered Comfort explores the new relationship between fashion and the home: multi-purpose accessories are becoming more and more popular (just think about slippers, which are now considered ‘cool’ enough to wear outside), and comfort is paramount. We will be seeing a lot of soft, natural and tactile materials, and shapes that cocoon and cuddle. The concept of hybrid footwear will be explored, such as blending slipper shapes with something more premium, inspired by ballerina shoes.
Considered Comfort reflects a shift in customer expectations, with consumers becoming increasingly focused on their choice of clothing. Whether at home, at work or for an evening out, the important thing is to be comfortable and well-dressed. With the suit becoming more casual and streetwear more stylish, the result is a redefined concept of “informal elegance”. Active and athleisure trends continue to influence footwear: the by now ubiquitous hybrid shoes are updated with futuristic trims and pop-colour accents. Meanwhile, more traditional colours combined with modern styles create a look that has broad appeal and suits everyone.
The dividing lines between real and virtual, authentic and false, truth and fantasy are becoming increasingly blurred. Tech-tility explores the way the clothing industry approaches this issue. The more time we spend in front of the screen, the harder it is to distinguish between what is real and what is digital, and more importantly, we are not interested in understanding the difference.
The colours will be those of the digital world, chosen as much as for how they appear on the screen as how they look in real life; innovation and high-tech materials will be at the centre of attention with ‘smart’ fabrics that respond to movement and regulate body temperature.
This evolution will give our clothes a more fantastical look; just think of sportswear’s futuristic or gender-neutral styles, structured activewear that re-shapes the body or the conceptual outerwear and sneakers that wouldn’t look out of place on the moon.
In this new scenario, the everyday will become more extreme and tech more tactile: it’s time to rethink design conventions. Men’s fashions have always included a mix of different designs, and with its blend of real and virtual the Tech-tility trend stretches such concepts even further and becomes crucial for this market. While younger customers are now discovering tailoring, innovations in textiles and techniques will make even the most formal office attire easier and more comfortable to wear. The trend explores designs, materials and colours that stand out on video screens. Print stories are inspired by glitches and digital debris while iridescent dichroic details create ephemeral and otherworldly effects. Shoes with sporty trims explode with fluorescent colours, as a constant reminder of the trend’s “active” origins.
3. Reconstructed Legacy
In periods of instability, the past takes on an irresistible allure. Reconstructed Legacy explores how clothing will reinterpret the past in the light of the future, but in a more sustainable way.
We can expect classic, preppy styles to be energised by a more edgy, even punky, streetwear look, with materials and details taken from the past and reinterpreted with tech fabrics and more modern shapes.
Underpinning these new designs will be an intrinsic sense of value and history. The point will be to do better, and not more, because sustainability is becoming an increasingly urgent issue for all of us.
With the rise of the digital culture, as far as the fashion industry is concerned the past has always represented a stable point of reference in a continually changing world. But in 2021, even the traditions of the past will be brought up-to-date.
Male consumers love buying products with a history and the Reconstructed legacy trend panders to this preference: classic models reworked to adapt to more modern life-styles that respect nature. Great attention is given to well-designed, familiar and eco-friendly accessories.
The use of artisanal techniques not only for formal clothing but also luxury streetwear, gives the latter a timeless appeal and, potentially, turns it into a classic that will last forever .
Italian luxury label Prada is joining forces with sportswear giant adidas on a new collaboration.
At this time no more information is known, however the hashtag #pradaforadidas has already been set in motion.
At the upcoming Winter Pitti fairs taking place at the beginning of 2020, the theme is revolved about flags. Rectangles of cloth, lines, colors, drawings and beautiful geometric patterns: the Pitti Immagine flag flutters in the snap taken by the great photo reporter Franco Pagetti for the campaign dedicated to the winter fairs, under the art direction of Angelo Figus, who curates also the setting at the Fortezza da Basso together with the architect Alessandro Moradei. Constantly moving fabrics, like in the clothing we wear and which, just like clothes, are mobile symbols of identity, belonging, thought, feeling. A flag is never a silent fabric, it always has something to say, it consistently arouses emotions because it speaks according to universal messages. It is expressive, enthusiastic, insolent. It flutters, falls, is lowered, is raised, carried, folded, waved. Flags are also beautiful geometrical compositions; they give pleasure to the people who see them flying. Pitti is like the United Nations of Fashion where every brand has its own flag, but also where each one of us can become our own flag. Go ahead then and “Show Your Flags at Pitti”!
With 140 Moroccan and international exhibitors, an even larger number of production specialists presented themselves at this year’s Maroc in Mode – Maroc Sourcing to over 1,000 trade visitors at the Moulay Hassan racetrack in Marrakech. Visitors from 16 countries, such as Spain, France, Portugal, Italy, UK, Germany, etc., including high- profile companies and vertical top providers, used the show as a platform to expand their production portfolio, intensify existing contacts and finalize production projects. In total, more than 700 came from Morocco, over 300 from European countries (Spain, France, Portugal, Italy, Germany, UK) and further countries like Japan. Visitors were particularly interested in the current topics of fast fashion and sustainability.
The 17th edition of Maroc in Mode – Maroc Sourcing became more international: producers from 6 countries presented their extensive production offer in the fields of fast fashion, denim, knitwear, tailoring and corporate fashion, among them exhibitors from Morocco, China, Pakistan, Portugal flagged with more than 20 companies in the area of Maroc Sourcing, Turkey was represented here by 19 specialists in fabrics, ingredients, accessories and services. The expansion into further markets is to be continued.
Fast fashion and sustainability are top themes
In line with visitor interest, the fair focused on sustainable aspects and fast fashion. Increasingly more exhibitors are sustainably certified, i.a. from Oekotex, BSCI, GOTS, ISO, through individual customer audits, etc. Exhibitors and visitors unanimously confirmed that sustainable production is the textile future: “There is a growing demand for sustainable production. We assume that from 2020 almost every company will demand sustainable production. That’s why we’re investing in new machines and changing all our processes from chemical use to laser technology,” said Hind Raki, Commercial Manager of Crossing.
Against this background, sustainable production is strongly promoted. Investments are made not only in the denim sector with the application of new technologies such as ozone, eFlow, laser but through out the industry. There are plans for projects that will establish a comprehensive ecosystem of circulation in Morocco.
The comprehensive seminar program on both days of the fair gathered experts from the fashion industry and reflected here also the developments of the market, ia. with a view to the fundamentals of Oekotex certification, the opportunities and challenges of sustainable fashion for the sector, energy efficiency and circular economy in the textile and clothing sector, as well as the different conditions in the European and American fashion markets.
Another focus was on digitalization and how to further enhance the added value of Moroccan textiles and clothing, e.g. with expert lectures on the change from CMT to FOB and new technologies from Lectra, etc.
Strategically, the fair is even more international. At the fair, AMITH solemnly signed two partnership agreements with UIT – Union of Industries Textiles and UFIMH – Union Française Mode & Habillement on the first day of the fair. The aim is to further consolidate cooperation between the Moroccan and French textile and clothing industries. Already in 2017, the partnership with the Portuguese association ATP was sealed. While Spain and France are traditionally strong partners, in future the focus will increasingly be on new markets, especially Northern Europe. Scandinavia and Germany are seen as strategic markets in which the activity is to be increased significantly, measures are intensified.
Zalando, Europe’s leading online platform for fashion and lifestyle, has grown its customer base and deepened customer relationships in the third quarter of 2019. For the first time in its history, the company saw more than one billion site visits in a single quarter (up 37.3% year-over-year), showing that customers gravitate to the platform when they think about fashion. On the way to becoming the starting point for fashion in Europe, the company continued to expand its customer base to 29.5 million (up 17.5% year-over-year).
Driven by increasing numbers of orders (up 25.4% year-over-year to 34.7 million), Zalando strongly grew its revenues by 26.7% to EUR 1.5 billion and the Gross Merchandise Volume (GMV) by 24.6% to EUR 1.9 billion. The company achieved a positive adjusted EBIT of EUR 6.3 million or a margin of 0.4%.
David Schröder, CFO Zalando SE, said: “2019 has been a very successful year for us so far. We had a strong third quarter with more active customers who more and more frequently look for inspiration on Zalando. We are growing at a high pace across all regions. We want to maintain the momentum for a strong finish to the year and look forward to celebrating together with our customers the upcoming Cyber Week and the festive season.”
In the third quarter, Zalando saw strong growth across all regions. In the DACH region, revenues went up 22.9%, whilst business in the Rest of Europe region grew strongly by 30.8%. The positive development was especially pronounced in Spain, the Nordics, as well as the Czech Republic, where the business has grown at a high pace since the launch one year ago. Zalando will continue to further invest in the market and will expand Zalando Lounge to the Czech Republic in the fourth quarter.
In line with its vision to be a sustainable fashion platform with a net-positive impact for people and the planet, from now onwards, Zalando will be carbon neutral in its own operations, deliveries, and returns. Furthermore, the company will provide its customers with an even broader choice of more sustainable styles. Three new brands offering more sustainable products will be added to the assortment, and Zalando’s private-label brand Zign will be fully dedicated to sustainability as of the summer season 2020.
In the first nine months of 2019, Zalando grew its GMV by 23.5% to EUR 5.7 billion (first nine months of 2018: EUR 4.6 billion) and its revenues by 20.7% to EUR 4.5 billion (first nine months of 2018 EUR 3.7 billion) and achieved an adjusted EBIT of EUR 114.5 million, which corresponds to a margin of 2.5% (first nine months of 2018: EUR 55.5 million or 1.5%).
On the back of the strong results of the first nine months, Zalando is confident about its full-year guidance for 2019 and expects a GMV growth of 20 to 25% and a revenue growth around the low end of this range. It expects the adjusted EBIT to be in the upper half of the range of EUR 175 to 225 million and capital expenditure of around EUR 300 million.
Zalando’s quarterly statement and the earnings presentation for analysts and investors is available on the Zalando Investor Relations website. Zalando will report results for the fourth quarter and full year of 2019 on 27 February 2020.
Acne Studios & Mulberry have announced a collaboration between the two houses, marrying Swedish design and English charm in a limited edition capsule collection. The collection will launch on 5th November.
“This is a collaboration about friendship and our freedom as brands to do what we want to do. It is a conversation between Acne Studios and Mulberry, one that is founded in mutual respect and a desire to make great product.” Says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
“The Acne Studios and Mulberry collaboration is a perfect manifestation of the spirit of both our brands. It showcases Acne Studios’ wonderful Swedish design ethos and celebrates both the British heritage and modernity of Mulberry.” says Thierry Andretta, CEO of Mulberry.
The Kering Group said that it delivered another quarter of high growth in consolidated revenue, up 14.2 percent as reported and 11.6 percent on a comparable group structure and exchange rate basis to 3,884.6 million euros (3,202.2 million dollars).
“We achieved another strong quarter, and all our segments contributed to our solid top-line gain. Our progress, on top of considerable expansion in the past two years, is healthy and well balanced across all Houses. We are consolidating our growth trajectory, and carrying out continuous, targeted operating investments,” said François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Kering in a statement.
-Gucci delivered very healthy growth in the quarter, with revenue up 13.3% as reported and 10.7% on a comparable basis to €2,374.7 million, once again on top of particularly high bases of comparison. All of the main product categories contributed to this growth, demonstrating the enduring success of the House’s collections. Growth in sales from directly operated stores (up 10.7% on a comparable basis) was led by Asia- Pacific (up 17.9% on a comparable basis) and Western Europe (up 11.9% on a comparable basis). Wholesale rose 9.8% on a comparable basis.
-Yves Saint Laurent pursued its double-digit growth in the quarter, with revenue up 13.3% as reported and 10.8% on a comparable basis to €506.5 million. Growth was balanced across distribution channels, with an 11.4% rise in comparable sales from directly operated stores driven by all of the House’s geographic regions, and an 8.2% increase from wholesale.
-Bottega Veneta saw highly encouraging growth during the third quarter, with sales up 9.8% as reported and 6.9% on a comparable basis to €284.3 million. Daniel Lee’s collections were extremely well received, by established and new customers alike. Sales from directly operated stores rose 7.5% on a comparable basis, with sharp growth in Western Europe (up 10.1% comparable) and North America (up 17.1% comparable). Wholesale continued to grow, up 4.1% comparable.
-Sales from Couture and Leather Goods continued to rise sharply, fueled in particular by the strong sales momentum at Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Jewelry delivered solid growth, with a very good quarter at Boucheron and strong performances from Pomellato and DoDo, while Qeelin pursued its successful expansion in Mainland China. Watches posted an encouraging performance, lifted by the launch of new models by Ulysse Nardin.
With over 350 visitors from all over the world, the 2019 edition of the annual Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim event was a great success. Over the course of one day, the fashion industry gathered in Amsterdam to discuss topics such as transparency and blockchain system, GEN Z as a consumer, climate change, responsible fashion and how these topics can change both the industry and the world.
Designed to be a live platform for thoughts and ideas and a stage for future insights, Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has rapidly become a stronghold of original ideas and a cultural melting pot that does not only have an impact on the fashion industry, but also has other industries looking towards the fashion industry for original ideas and innovations to build a sustainable future for everybody. With its second edition Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has truly become a beacon that shines a light on a possible future, today.
About the event Calik Denim CEO Fatih Dogan says: “Now in its second year, Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has become a platform where we synthesize and present different point of views, experiences and the future over the course of one inspiring and thought provoking day. We touch on many different areas such as the future, our planet, innovation, new technologies and sustainability, with a focus on new generations and consumer behaviour, global trends and collaborations. The event welcomes audiences from both denim and other international sectors. Anyone who is part of – or touches – the world of fashion world can participate. Brands, garment manufacturers, suppliers, the press, academicians and students… Therefore, we believe in the importance of this event. Its values will advance both the sector and the world in which we live.”
Lagos Fashion Week (LagosFW) is a fashion platform that drives the Nigerian and ultimately, the African fashion industry; by bringing together buyers, consumers and the media to view the current collections of designers at a four (4) day event in the fashion capital of Lagos, Nigeria.
As a leading fashion event on the African fashion calendar, LagosFW leads the way with initiatives that supports, strengthens and develops the fashion industry. Beyond the runway, the annual event provides a physical platform that is gradually repositioning fashion as a useful tool for commerce and creativity in Nigeria. The October 2019 edition just closed its doors today after a successful 3 days.
Runway Shows and Presentations featuring new season collections from designers;
Fashion Focus Africa’s talent discovery initiative that creates access to Fashion Focus Fund, knowledge transfer, information exchange, networking opportunities and access to market;
Fashion Business Series to facilitate conversations with key players from the Nigerian and Pan African industries and beyond, as a useful tool for exchanging ideas, networking and developing the fashion industry.
Green Access Talent discovery with a vision to encourage designers to create social, economic and environmentally sustainable fashion brands
Visual Makers Fellowship created to empower budding filmmakers and photographers with workshops and masterclasses
LagosFW Showrooms Access to shop some of your favorite fashion brands.
After parties: an opportunity to experience Lagos night life and connect with some of Africa’s finest creatives in a relaxed environment.
Danish fashion brand Son of a Tailor has just launched a pullover that is 100 percent 3D-printed. The initiative is an attempt to stop one of fashion’s biggest climate issues: Waste.
The fashion industry accounts for more CO2 emissions than the airline and shipping industry combined. Waste is a major part of that as more than 1/5 of the material used for making clothes is traditionally thrown out during production. When printing clothing, however, you only need to fill the 3D-printer with the material that will be used for the actual piece of clothing – and not an ounce more. In other words, no material is wasted whatsoever.
“Fashion is one of the world’s biggest climate sinners, but as an industry, we keep looking the other way. Most brands think a couple of eco-collections is enough to make them climate positive. It’s embarrassing and irresponsible. By removing waste from the production process, we are proving that it is indeed possible to change fashion’s bad habits. We hope we can inspire other brands to do the same,” says Jess Fleischer, CEO and founder of Son of a Tailor.
Reached Kickstarter goal in 39 minutes
The 3D-printed pullover, which is made of merino wool, was launched October 21 through a campaign at popular crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. In just 39 minutes, Son of a Tailor reached their goal of 15,000 USD, making the campaign one of the most successful active campaigns on Kickstarter in all of Europe.
Swedish professor Jonas Larsson from The Swedish School of Textiles, who has supported Son of a Tailor’s project, is not surprised by the success. He believes consumers are ready for new, sustainable alternatives in fashion that makes an actual difference.
“With this product, Son of a Tailor is highlighting the potential of new technological opportunities in apparel manufacturing and supply chain that can significantly reduce waste in the fashion industry, while providing a better product for the end customer,” says Jonas Larsson.
A life cycle without waste
Waste in fashion doesn’t just occur during the production process. A lot of clothing is wasted as a result of brands making way more clothing than they can sell. At the same time, we as consumers have a tendency to buy clothes that we only use a couple of times – or in some cases never use at all.
Therefore, Son of a Tailor tailor-makes all of its clothing through an online algorithm. That means that not a single piece of clothing is set in production before it has been ordered. That way, the five year old company completely avoids over production. And because the clothing is tailor-made, consumers are less likely to throw it away before using it. Now, they combine the tailor-making process with 3D-printing, thus removing waste from the actual production as well. All in all this means that Son of a Tailor has almost removed waste completely from their clothing’s life cycle.