In light of a further strong business recovery, HUGO BOSS recorded significant top- and bottom-line improvements in the second quarter of 2021, thereby exceeding overall market expectations. On a preliminary basis, currency-adjusted Group sales increased 133% as compared to the prior-year period. Also in Group currency, sales more than doubled, up 129% to EUR 629 million in the three-month period (Q2 2020: EUR 275 million). Compared to the second quarter of 2019, the decline in Group sales was therefore limited to 4% only, currency-adjusted.
Business recovery was clearly noticeable across all regions. While currency-adjusted sales more than doubled in Europe (+130%) and more than quintupled in the Americas (+416%), currency-adjusted revenues in Asia/Pacific were up by 51%, as compared to the prior-year period. Consequently, on a two-year stack basis, currency-adjusted sales in Europe and the Americas remained 4% and 5% below 2019 levels, respectively. In Asia/Pacific, currency-adjusted sales were down 3% as against the second quarter of 2019, with currency-adjusted sales in mainland China up 28% against the prior-year period and 33% on a two-year-stack basis, respectively.
From a channel perspective, HUGO BOSS more than doubled currency-adjusted sales in both own retail (+124%) and wholesale (+170%) as against the prior-year quarter. While own retail sales remained 5% below 2019 levels in the three-month period, wholesale revenues were down 2% on a two-year-stack basis, both currency- adjusted. Within own retail, the Company’s own online business recorded currency- adjusted sales growth of 27% in the second quarter, implying growth of 122% on a two-year stack.
Assocalzaturifici held its Annual Meeting the past few days in Bologna.
At the meeting, Chair Siro Badon emphasised the impact of Covid-19 on the footwear industry, one of the hardest-hit sectors of production, along with other components of the Italian Textiles, Fashion and Accessories sector.
In 2020 the sector lost about 1/4 of its total turnover (with the final balance being 10.72 billion euro, -25.2% compared to 2019) and national production. There were sharp reductions in both foreign trade and domestic consumption. After the collapse in levels of business during the first part of the year, as a result of the lockdown, there was just some respite in the severity of the decline in the next two quarters (although this still remained in double-digit territory), as opposed to a V-shaped recovery.
At this time of crisis, Assocalzaturifici has come up with plenty of challenging new projects for its members.
“Sustainability is definitely one of our top priorities,” explains Badon. “We have come up with a project supporting our members and other companies in the process of accreditation and commercial positioning of their businesses as sustainable and therefore highly competitive companies on Italian and international markets”. Assocalzaturifici has registered its own Sustainability trademark (VCS – Verified & Certified Steps), which may be granted to companies capable of achieving a quality standard based on certain requirements. The project will begin with a self-assessment which companies can conduct independently; we will then have reference benchmarks that tell us what the minimum criteria are to be considered a sustainable enterprise. Companies ranking above the bar will then be eligible for certification by the institute we appoint. Companies that do not meet the minimum requirements will be able to rely on the professional assistance of CIMAC, the Assocalzaturifici laboratory that has been conducting testing and certification to guarantee the quality and safety of fashion products for more than 30 years. CIMAC can help businesses begin, continue or improve internal processes aimed at meeting the requirements for sustainability certification.
Another important agreement was signed with one of the world’s most prominent startup accelerators: Startup Boot Camp Fashion Tech. As Badon explains, “With them, the Association will be able to count on an international organisation that helps us select, incubate and accelerate two start-ups a year which technologically promote and facilitate sustainability in our own specific industry and help MICAM through the long process of digitalisation”.
In addition, the Association looks toward the future with three innovative projects for Assocalzaturifici’s 550 or more member companies: one for creating a digital match between global demand for Italian know-how and industries and artisans capable of offering the immense added value of this unique know-how; one for building a true marketplace for consumers open to companies ideally representing the excellence of Italian manufacturing; and one using blockchain technology to ensure product traceability, on which the Association is working with a leading Italian consortium that has already completed a number of projects for the luxury sector.
Last, but by no means least in importance, is the study commissioned of Università Ca Foscari in Venice in partnership with M&C Saatchi. “Recognition of the prestigious label ‘Made in Italy’ is of critical importance for our economy,” notes Badon.
On 30 June and 1 July, Première Vision launched FASHION RENDEZ-VOUS, the first physical event for the upstream fashion industry since the Covid-19 crisis, in an exceptional location – the Grand Palais Ephémère in Paris – a new temporary event site ideally located across from the Eiffel Tower in the heart of the world’s fashion capital.
After more than a year of not being able to meet in person, the players of the fashion industry were eager to get together. Surpassing the organizers’ expectations, more than 2,800 visitors and nearly 200 exhibitors gathered during these two days, attesting to the importance of re-launching business and networking in order to support the recovery of the industry and build the fashion of tomorrow.
MICAM, the leading international footwear show promoted by Assocalzaturifici, is scheduled for September 19 through 21, 2021 at Fiera Milano Rho. The event will be held in person once again, on the basis of a new formula concentrating visits to the stands over three days rather than four, presenting a preview of the Spring/Summer 2022 collections and the latest trends in footwear. Progress on vaccination campaigns suggests that large numbers of Italian and international dealers will be able to attend the event in perfect safety, under health and safety protocols implemented in partnership with Fiera Milano, to see the new products presented by the world’s top footwear brands for themselves and touch them with their own hands.
“We can finally get started again in our traditional form,” explains Assocalzaturifici and MICAM chair Siro Badon. “Our member companies need to meet with buyers in person again and re-establish their relationships. We have been working tirelessly to provide all the tools necessary to re-launch business opportunities, negotiate orders, and help Italian companies penetrate international markets. This is the only way to revive an industry that makes an essential contribution to the Italian economy. Synergies between the physical and virtual events will be reinforced. The Covid emergency and the resulting travel restrictions have taught us the importance of speeding up digitalisation to reach and fulfil the needs of people who are unable to attend the event in person”.
For this reason, the MICAM Milano Digital Show platform will be offered in addition to the physical event, between September 15 and November 15 2021, allowing brands to schedule visits and meetings with buyers before, during and after the trade fair.
The textiles and fashion sector is currently undergoing a fundamental revolution – driven by sustainable and technological innovations, new value creation models are reaching the mass market. It is precisely these topics that will be at the focus of Fashionsustain, the international and multidisciplinary conference format of Neonyt, which is taking place from 6 to 8 July 2021 and, for the first time, during the digital FFW STUDIO of Frankfurt Fashion Week. In the form of panel discussions, talks, keynotes and interactive formats, it will present fascinating, in-depth insights into the ongoing transformation process of the industry. Represented are, amongst others the Grüner Knopf, Oeko-Tex and PwC.
3 days, more than 20 individual formats, a multitude of insights: the varied and multidisciplinary line-up of Fashionsustain will cover the State of the Industry, Innovating the Industry and State of Retail as its central topics. The focus of the content will be on Fashion Design & Circularity, Values & Diversity, Digitisation, Textile Certifications and Cotton & Denim. In various talks, discussions and presentations, the community will become aware of the challenges currently facing the sustainable fashion sector, of how the stakeholders involved are pushing ahead with their visions and how they can be applied to bring about real change within the industry.
ALBERTO’s 2022 summer collection integrates technology at every level: from the high-tech icon Hybrid Sports Pants to digital prints that stretch all aesthetic boundaries in a resource-saving way to the Red Selvedge, which is produced on narrow looms in the old Japanese tradition.
‘In 2022, we’ll be celebrating 100 years of Alberto, an emotional event. Instead of an anniversary collection, we prefer to keep doing what has made our company successful for 100 years: giving tradition a new face by modelling the future with innovative products.’-Marco Lanowy, Alberto
A quick word with Marco Lanowy:
Mr Lanowy, what’s the ALBERTO ‘idea’?
It’s the common thread that runs through everything we do. We work up close to real life, observing emerging trends – by no means just in fashion – but also how people’s everyday lives are taking shape and what social and societal movements are emerging. Obviously, this is reflected in the development of our products. For us, the focus is on finding out what people need a pair of pants for, and we use this as a starting point to develop the necessary innovations for the product in terms of details and benefits.
In the process, ALBERTO is visibly merging the various styles of pants.
Right. Nowadays, a pair of pants should ideally be an all-rounder and not just look good when you’re switching from the job to the couch, from the couch to the bike and from the bike to the golf course, but also function well. This is a transformation process that began with the development of our first golf collection.
It’s a theme that has led to the development of the Hybrid Sports Pants, after all.
Cyclists, golfers and hikers appreciate the Hybrid Sports Pants mainly because of their features, but at the same time more and more customers are turning to the styles for purely fashion reasons. For me, the new ‘Pack’, which can be rolled up and packed into the zipper back pocket, is a real highlight of the collection. I’m curious to see what kind of feedback we get here.
ALBERTO is successively working on producing the collections more sustainably …
Yes, we already work very intensively with organic cotton and recycled yarns on the basis of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label, but it’s always an ongoing process. I find it very exciting how much is currently happening in the area of sustainable materials and finishes. This gives us the opportunity to close our gaps in sustainability bit by bit. We think it’s important to develop a long-lasting, unique product in an ecological, humanly respectful and fair way. For us, these are self-evident facts. We don’t really want to emphasise them any more, not least because we don’t deal with the issue of sustainability for marketing reasons, but because we consider it our duty to do our best in this area.
A closing word about digital prints …
… aren’t just the visual highlights that we also base our colour concepts on, but also open up more creative freedom and even more individual production for us. We really enjoy that!
Always key players, the combinations and pairings of cottons, jersey and lyocell for even more optimal performance, reveal a Richard J. Brown man and woman that is sophisticated and tough, elegant and impeccable. Combinations of cashmere, silk and linen, light and refined, complete traditional outfits with the most sophisticated outerwear. For him, traditional jeans jackets in form but different and innovative in the search for materials and the quality of the trim, offered in a new summer version. For her, refined kimonos in cotton and denim.
For S/S 22, the colour palette of the garment-dyed pieces is entirely inspired by nature and the art of riding, recalling evocative and enchanting scenarios. From sage green to military green, from beige to maize and ice, from red clay to chestnut, from blue in all its variations to lilac and petrol green. The naturally derived mineral dyes are new, which emphasize and highlight respect for an increasingly sustainable and environmentally conscious management.
The accessories, more and more lively and personalized are systematically exclusive and identifying. New colours have been added to the more traditional suede labels with copper or silver plating for an even richer and more varied range. For those who are daring, the new fabric labels made with a thermo-application technique and launched in the previous winter collection offer an intriguing choice.
Quality, passion, love for nature and animals. Available in the showroom, or through the network of agents and through the online platform, the new RJB collection is ready to be discovered like a pleasant outing on horseback.
“Isabel Marant is launching a vintage website fo add to the luxury fashion good industry’s growing circular economy. Donators of used clothing from the label will receive vouchers; proceeds will go to an endowment fund supporting artisan craftsmanship.
In addition to vintage items, deadstock clothing, shoes, and accessories from prior collections will be sold on the vintage platform. As brands work on finding ways to become more sustainable, they are betting big on the circular economy. Last year, Gucci launched a circular economy partnership with The Real Real.