Copenhagen Fashion Summit and Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) have announced the business space for sustainable innovation C+, set to launch in August 2020 during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
With an extensive, growing environmental and social footprint across the globe, there is an urgent need to accelerate the fashion industry’s sustainable transformation. That is why Copenhagen Fashion Summit and CIFF are joining forces to launch C+, a business space for sustainable innovation designed to help small and large fashion businesses implement innovative solutions to create more sustainable products. At a curated trade and exhibition area at CIFF, C+ will present some of the world’s most promising sustainable solutions covering the entire value chain. The business space will have approximately 100 solutions on exhibition and also a stage programme with panels focusing on sustainable solutions. C+ will also offer a matchmaking programme with facilitated and pre-scheduled business meetings between fashion brands and solution providers to help companies take the first important steps towards (further) implementing sustainability.
“We must accelerate the pace of progress, and we believe that connecting brands with solution providers is what will help them advance most quickly. Copenhagen Fashion Summit is restricted in terms of how many companies we can engage, which is why we’re beyond excited about our collaboration with CIFF and having the opportunity to access its huge network in the Nordics. Creating direct connections between fashion brands and innovative solutions aligns well with our mission to mobilise and guide the fashion industry to take bold and urgent action on sustainability,” says Eva Kruse, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, organiser of Copenhagen Fashion Summit.
The business space for sustainable innovation C+, which will launch during Copenhagen Fashion Week SS21, will be open to visitors from 4-5 August 2020.
AS SUSTAINABILITY IS MAKING ITS WAY TO THE TOP OF CONSUMERS PRIORITIES, RETAILERS ARE FACING THE NECESSITY OF ADDRESSING CLOTHING RESALE AND RECYCLING.
What do your customers do with the garments they bought from you when these are no longer worn? Probably take them to charity shops or to the nearest recycling station. But why not encourage them to bring these items back to you, thus turning this transaction into another customer engagement opportunity? A growing number of major brands and retail chains is doing just that: taking back consumers’ used items in exchange for rewards, thus enhancing both their green credentials and the relationship with their clients. Many businesses then outsource clothes recycling to I:CO, much of which is “downcycled” into lower value products, such as insulation. This is the case with Cotton Blue Jeans’ ‘Go Green’ recycling program in collaboration with ‘Zappos for Good’. Attracted by an interactive digital campaign, with explanatory videos and the hashtag #bluejeansgogreen, consumers mail their old jeans in for free, or drop them off at partnering retailers such as Levi’s, Madewell, rag & bone, O.N.S., American Eagle Outfitters, or Ariat, and get discounts in return.
Some fashion brands repurpose their own used garments in-house. Through its ‘Waste no more’ initiative, Eileen Fisher has received over 1 million worn pieces from customers since 2009. Garments in perfect condition are cleaned and resold through their ‘Renew’ program. The rest is remade into artwork and decor through a custom felting method. For each return customers receive a 5 USD rewards card.
Re-cycling or upcycling isn’t the only way of dealing with clothes that are no longer wanted: many enterprises have turned to resale for profit increase, and to compete with popular clothing resale companies including The RealReal, Grailed, Poshmark, and Farfetch’s new ‘Second Life’. As WeAr has previously reported (see ‘The Rise of Resale’ report in Issue 55), multilabel stores that sell new merchandise, such as Galeries Lafayette, have been teaming up with online secondhand retailer Rebelle to sell on their customers’ pre-loved items; while some retailers, such as the Swedish company Aplace, are adding second- hand offerings to the new collections within their own retail spaces. California- based company Yerdle, the brainchild of former Walmart executive Andy Ruben, creates customized resale channels for retailers and designers to integrate into their existing systems – see the Business Talks section for more details.
These examples suggest that recycling might mean rethinking product, merchan- dising and marketing. Used clothing could be resold in ‘vintage’ sections or repurposed, following Eileen Fisher’s model, into other salable products, or in-store furnishings and objects. Some of the brands you stock might already have recycling mechanisms to integrate. For non-salable returns, why not enlist recycling companies such as TEXAID, as the first step towards a more sustain- able business approach.
DuPont Sorona faux fur was awarded the ISPO Textrend “Best Product” in the Accelerated Eco category for the Fall/Winter 2021/22 season. As the apparel industry is increasingly pivoting away from the use of animal fur, this innovative product provides a thoughtful solution to fur with a luxurious, premium look and feel that designers can incorporate into their garments.
Sorona faux fur is made with 70 to 100 percent bio-based Sorona polymer fibers, creating one of the first commercially available faux furs using plant-based ingredients. Current styles vary from classic mink to plush teddy-style fur, providing limitless solutions for fashion apparel – such as the inside lining of a jacket, or the trim on a collar – as well as footwear and accessories – including fur-lined shoes, earmuffs and more. The faux fur pushes the boundaries of sustainability in fashion, while providing consumers with an ethical option that is also better for the planet.
New Sorona faux fur is a long-lasting and luxurious fur alternative with an array of performance attributes including warmth, design flexibility and dyeability. With exceptional softness and uncompromising durability, this natural feeling alternative to fur will not break down over time due to heat or UV rays. This can lengthen the life of the garment for multiple uses and when it is finally time to retire the garment, it can be mechanically recycled rather than being directed to the landfill like spandex. Sorona faux fur will be on display at ISPO Beijing on February 12-15, 2020 in the Textrends display area.
In 2017, Kering unveiled its 2025 sustainability strategy, with a target to reduce its environmental footprint by 40%. The strategy is underpinned by three pillars:
CARE: taking steps to reduce its environmental footprint and preserve the planet and its natural resources by using innovative tools.
COLLABORATE: contributing to high environmental, ethical and social performance by promoting parity and diversity and becoming an employer of choice.
CREATE: imagining innovative alternatives using an open source approach.
In 2020, Kering presents its progress report for its 2025 sustainability strategy. As promised, three years on from its strategy announcement, the Group reports on the progress made for each of the strategy’s three pillars. The Group is also focused on the challenges that still need addressing by accelerating innovation.
Kering mentions in its report “We supply chain, knowing that it is our duty to be responsible for the impact we have on the world. So, three years ago we designed a new chapter for 2025 with concrete quantified targets. Our Care pillar includes targets like a 40% reduction in our overall environmental footprint and a 50% reduction in our greenhouse gas emissions within our own operations and across our entire supply chain.”
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has announced that London Fashion Week (LFW) February 2020 will be a city-wide celebration themed around Positive Fashion, the BFC initiative designed to celebrate industry best practice and encourage future business decisions to create positive change. City-Wide celebration aims to unite London in a festival of creativity and innovation with a dynamic schedule including events and activations in partnership with key retailers, cultural institutions and businesses, opening London Fashion Week to new audiences and communities.
The BFC has curated a schedule of activities including over 78 brands, 103 stores and 346 events taking place between Friday 14th and Tuesday 18th February. Events and activations will continue to be added to the schedule leading up to LFW. The #LFW theme will also appear in storefronts and window displays throughout the city in internationally renowned shopping destinations such as Chelsea, Covent Garden, Mayfair & The West End, to identify the partners taking part in City-Wide Celebration.
Fashion brand Scotch & Soda has launched eyewear for Spring 2020, offering a collection of men’s and women’s sunglasses and opticals.
The new category has been introduced with licensee partner Mondottica and will be stocked at Scotch & Soda stores, on its website and at selected opticians globally. The collection includes 11 men’s sunglasses and 10 women’s sunglasses, as well as 10 men’s and 11 women’s optical styles.
Inspiration comes from the landscapes of Hawaii, and references across the collection include colourful sunset gradients, palm-leaf engravings and tonal seascape-inspired lenses.
DuPont Sorona Fabrics Showcases Recyclable, Spandex-Free Stretch Jacket at Outdoor Retailer and ISPO Munich 2020
The DuPont Sorona brand team is challenging designers to think about the full lifecycle of a garment by showcasing a ski jacket where every layer is a spandex-free stretch solution that can be recycled. The ski jacket – using partially bio-based Sorona fabrics for the inner and outer layers, the insulation, and the faux fur trim – is debuting exclusively at the upcoming Outdoor Retailer Snow Show on Jan. 29-31, 2020 in Denver, Colo., and at ISPO Munich, Jan. 26-29, 2020.
Combining the long-lasting performance of Sorona® fabrics with the concept of circular economy, this jacket is compatible with single stream polyester recycling, meaning the fabrics can have a second life when it’s time to finally retire the garment. Designed by Youngone, this stylish jacket incorporates the recently launched ECOLoft™ FLEX SR insulation based on UNIFI REPREVE® fibers and bio-based Sorona® polymer fibers offering warmth and long-lasting stretch for hitting the slopes time and time again.
“Stretch fabrics with even 1 percent spandex or elastane, if not reused, tend to head for the landfill,” explains Laurie Kronenberg, Global DuPont™ Sorona® Brand Manager. “That is why it is so important to understand that if a polyester stretch garment has elasterell-p or elastomultiester to enhance the garment’s stretch performance, it can be mechanically recycled. Educating everyone from designers to the material handlers in the recycling facilities that there is a stretch fiber option that can be mechanically recycled in a 100 percent polyester construction will have a positive impact on the environment.”
“We’re working with multiple value chains and thinking of the entire lifecycle of a garment,” said Renee Henze, DuPont Biomaterials Global Marketing Director. “Every stakeholder has to pull together to create solutions for sustainable fashions. We’re proud to debut this soft and luxurious jacket that features partially plant-based Sorona® fabrics throughout and has the added benefit of being recycled at its end of life.”
Premium, sustainable and streetwear menswear show Jacket Required has announced it is moving to a new home as of July 2020. For the SS21 show, taking place on the 22nd – 23rdJuly, Jacket Required will be moving to the iconic Saatchi Gallery in south west London.
Martin Arnold, Fashion Portfolio Director at Hyve Group plc said in a statement: “We want to give the SS21 edition of Jacket Required a significant reboot, so in line with our plans to really push the premium edge of Jacket Required and make it the UK’s only true home for premium menswear once again, we’re moving to the iconic Saatchi Gallery. As many regular Hyve Fashion attendees and exhibitors will know, our premium womenswear show, Scoop, also calls this venue home. As we continue to align the fashion portfolio, we wanted to bring Jacket Required in line with Scoop’s setting and values, to ensure that our premium offerings across men’s and women’s fashion truly match. While the two shows will remain separate, running to their own original datelines, we believe that aligning Jacket Required with Scoop will help to solidify our premium identity.”
In addition to the positive mood at Neonyt, the facts and figures also speak volumes: with more than 210 sustainable fashion brands from 22 countries, Neonyt, from 14-16 January 2020, brought together more sustainable fashion brands than ever before and the number of professional visitors in attendance has doubled in comparison to January 2019.
“We have been very impressed after every edition of Neonyt, but this one has really taken things to a new level – thanks to the brands, the buyers and all the key players from the fashion industry who have enriched Neonyt in the last few days and made it the most relevant hotspot. Across the entire board, we’ve felt not only the willingness and the necessity but also the desire for more sustainability,” says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President of Textiles and Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt.
While the next edition of Neonyt will be taking place from 30 June until 2 July 2020 in Berlin, Fashionsustain is already planning its next stop: the conference will be stopping off at ISPO in Munich at the end of January. In a three-hour slot on Sunday 26 January, selected topics will be explored in more depth as part of the CSR Hub. These panels are the first cooperation between the leading trade fairs. Focusing on the topics at hand, ISPO and Neonyt are pooling their strengths to further push the crucial topic of sustainability within their industries.
MICAM Milano, the International Footwear Show, will be back at Fiera Milano Rho February 16 till 19, 2020 with a special area set aside for Emerging Designers, offering young creative artists a unique opportunity to present their styles in the prestigious setting of the international show and confirming the trend toward renewal of the footwear sector.
The younger generations play an increasingly important role in determining the trends among consumers today, and also represent an important turning point for the footwear industry. This is why the International Footwear Show once again turns the spotlight on the creations of 12 young new talents in the industry, selected by a panel of experts and showcased in a special space at the event where they will introduce footwear makers and buyers to their surprising new style intuitions.
The creative designers featured in the Emerging Designers space at MICAM 89 will be: Annabelle Tsitsin with her A BY ANABELLE brand (Israel); Ines Martin- Borregon of ALOHAS SANDALS (Spain); Marouane Haial with CONTRE ALLÉE (Morocco); Marco Contigiani, Leonardo and Aldo D’Autilio with DEPLACÉ (Italy); Rodrigo with the DOTZ brand (Brazil); Diàna Polgàr with DYAN (Hungary); Emanuele Coppari presenting LES JEUX DU MARQUIS (Italy); Matteo Maiorano with MAIORANO (Italy); Asfales Rowland presenting PIJAK BUMI (Indonesia); Masamitsu Hata and Pierre Rivière of TIMOTHÉE PARIS (France); Xin-Yu Weng of the WXY brand (Taiwan); and Umberto De Marco of YATAY (Italy).
The styles proposed by the young designers range from pop citations to study of classic forms and from the metropolitan atmospheres of electronic music to rediscovery of natural and recycled materials, put to use in surprising new fashion concepts. There are plenty of truly unusual experiments and original new versions of the styles that have made the history of footwear design.