PITTI UOMO SPORTSWEAR TRENDS S/S 2015
THE OUTFIT FOR THE URBAN JUNGLE IS SPORTY-CHIC
The new metro look turns to sportswear, freely mixing heritage and tech materials, taking
sports-based elements out of context and using them together with urban wear classics. The
result is a sporty-chic DNA that generates items embellished with mesh details, bonded and
pierced fabrics, printed knits and high-tech, matelassé effect sweatshirts. The palette creates
fascinating contrasts on fabrics and in the prints: bold color blocking, floral patterns and pop
highlights. The raincoat is now perfect for all occasions and meets all needs: from the eskimo
with a protective hood to the short, high-performance vintage parka. Simple, squared lines,
inside pockets and plastic zippers stand out on fabrics that breathe. The season’s must-haves:
the water repellent, super-comfortable, thermal microfiber over jacket with ergonomic sleeves.
This is a world where jersey shorts are naturals for summer evenings, while shirts and jackets
with updated lines are made of stretch fabrics and enhanced with full-color graphics.
VOYAGE VOYAGE
Here is a wardrobe that evolves in its travels through the seasons: different weights, and
performance levels that can face any changes in weather. “Voyage” also means function and
comfort and we see it in clothes with utility details and stretch fabrics that are pleasing to the
touch. The docking point? A composite look suited to getting around in the city, with a new take
on sailing, or with biker-inspired items. In spring, windproof, water-resistant stretch fabrics take
the lead in field jackets, shirts, polos and pants, along with a contemporary traveller pack in
shape-memory fabric for blazers, coats and trench coats with functional pockets, while military
cotton is the preferred choice for pea coats and eskimo jackets. The summer turns the
spotlights on super-light fabrics like ottoman micro-cotton and a sophisticated look with lively
prints on everything – from field jackets to swim shorts.
INDIGO SHADES
Denim, in every possible shade and finish: from raw to sartorial to the environmentally
sustainable, from light wash to cold over-dyed, from check prints to monochrome floral patterns
on shirts and pants. This is true research and it extends to styles and combinations: cargo
pants, bermudas, capsule shirt collections all the way to the denim jacket – including the 5-
pocket version – making for a 100% denim look…and of course there is always stretch denim
and indigo fleece with novelty print details.
THE WORLD OF T-SHIRTS: DIGITAL PASSION
The kids on the streets of Tokyo and London with their apparently improved, exuberant look are
the inspiration for the item that dictates trends more than any other. Always more customized,
daring and colorful, the T-shirt is a whole generation’s ID. When it’s embellished with edgy
photo prints it speaks to a fashion-conscious allure, but it is also the vehicle for stories of
rebellion and artistic passions. As a manifesto of style, it blazes the path for excessive, amusing
and unpredictable looks as it mixes animal prints, geometric patterns and multicolor flowers,
rock graphics and extreme wash processes. In the eye of this perfect storm – the t-shirt with 3D
digital prints, underground icons and bright vitamin colors. And…t-shirts that speak to surfing
paradises, designed for dreaming of a summer oasis in the midst of a frenetic, always-rushing
city.
PITTI UOMO trends for Classic Menswear S/S 2015
THE NEW GENTLEMAN’S DRESS CODE: WHISPERED ELEGANCE
Sartorial tradition plus innovation equals summer elegance for the new gentleman. Outfits that
are extraordinarily light in weight and feel, but also in tones and looks. Bold patterns move over
and make way for sophisticated simplicity in suits and jackets: mock-solids and barely
perceptible micro-patterns, elegant jacquard effects that become clear on a closer look just like
the subdued ton-sur-ton Prince of Wales and other checks. The cool, almost impalpable fabrics
are the result of long and meticulous studies. Soft, lightweight cotton-and-silk, cotton-and-linen,
and pure cotton are present in subtle, textured weaves or enhanced by soft, overall floral or
necktie prints on the outside, on the linings or under the collar. Knitted looks, with a vintage air
and very fine textures create soft, three-dimensional surface effects. Young and updated
double-breasted and two button jackets with wide lapels play leading roles. As for accessories,
the vest is an established must-have be it patterned or printed, contrasting with the jacket, it
enlivens the look and trims the silhouette combining practicality, comfort and sophistication.
BLUE IS THE NEW BLACK
The season’s undisputed star is blue and not just as the key to elegance. With its infinite range
of shades – especially bluette, electric blue and Mediterranean blue – it is the perfect solution
for formal and informal, for classic and sportswear, for ready-to-wear and accessories. Denims
from carbon paper blue to aviator tones bring “old” and “new” together in shirts for every
occasion – from casual to under a tuxedo. British heritage royal blue dresses up ties and light
summer scarves with a Real Ancient Madder printing. Indigo with white evokes the sea, on hats
inspired by the Amalfi Cost, on délavé tailor-made trousers or on swimwear with photographic
prints. And it’s still blue – ton sur ton on faux-solid vests, micro-prints and sophisticated jacquard
effects on very understated suits and jackets. Last but not least, there is navy – traditional and
central to summer – with an innovative twist of vertical and horizontal strips for a modern sailor
look with skinny pants, structured blazers, herringbone sweats and glasses with colored lenses.
Color blocking sets the pace for the season with shades of blue, from ultramarine to cobalt and
steel paired with acid yellow and asphalt black.
SUPER-CHIC SHOES WALK IN DESIGNER FOOTPRINTS
Classic footwear becomes über chic. On dress shoes, hand-buffing creates colors and nuances
on natural split cowhide uppers . Laser-cut patterns – holes, outlined flowers and swallowtails –
lend an exclusive touch when used alongside of stitching. Easy, yet bold lines, rounded toes
and two-tone combinations in warm colors for oxfords, derby boots and double-buckle shoes
punctuate summer for the contemporary gentleman with a touch of elegance for every occasion.
The slip-on is practically a single product, a total success in every possible version: from suede
to buffed crocodile, from mini-geometric natural cotton and raffia weaves, to calf and nappa
combinations all the way to calfskin with a waxed patina. Right there, next to bold blues, reds
and greens are shades that recall natures own colors: sage, dark brown and sand. The suedeand-
canvas combo informs the City Running project: light natural colors light up the upper over
a rubber bottom stock with leather inserts.
Istanbul Fashion Week F/W 14
For three seasons now IMG has been organizing the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Istanbul.
In a country where so many cultures, religions and histories get together it is not surprising that also the creativity in fashion is a given. Turkey excels since years now in its manufacturing, famous for its fine leatherworks and denim.
It has been for many years a destination for European brands to manufacture their clothes and many Russian retailers constantly go to Turkey to buy their fashion as well as other Balkan states.
So whilst Turkey is a relevant fashion destination it is still very passive on the international market and it is easily forgotten that there are very creative but most importantly sellable designers in Turkey.
During Istanbul Fashion Week these designers showed their collections and whilst there is upwards potential in their brand building skills, the collections themselves seem very promising.
Azur Kaprol, one of the most established couture designers who is established internationally anyway, presented her Fall/ Winter collection which included interesting prints, fine silk blouses with lots of refined details and not to forget amazing gowns which are breathtakingly beautiful and most importantly: extraordinary. Something which guarantees that a woman will be the only one in the room wearing it.
Moreover, Utopian by Studio Kaprol showed its first collection consisting of mens- and womenswear. Young, rebellious and with lots of energy this collection wants to target the more commercial end-consumer. Very wearable designs partnered with affordable prices will make sure that this brand could be very successful in Europe but also the UK and the US. The brand is special in so far that it is designed by a team of 14 young designers not only from the field of fashion design but also architecture, music and film.
Most to look out for is its denim collection, which is backed by Denimvillage. This will ensure the quality of the product as well as a strong partner behind the collection.
A young designers, fresh out of university which seemed very promising was Ece Gözen very talented in prints but also showed shirts and dresses with architectonical details.
Nihan Peker produced elegant clothing mostly colored in old-rosé with elegant over the knee skirts and dresses.
Other designers which are to-watch are DB Berdan,Özlem Ahiakin for womenswear and Özem Kaya as well as Hakan Akkaya for menswear and Simay Bülbül who works a lot with leather.
THE JET SET GUIDE TO FASHIONABLE LONDON
The English metropolis of London is the first city to get the WeAr once-over as part of our new “City Check” series. We’ll be sharing our tips for the hottest restaurants, hotels, bars, and clubs.
Shamin Vogel
Writer Samuel Johnson said: “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.” This city is constantly reinventing itself; there is so much on offer, it’s simply not to be missed.
SHOPPING
The concept store LN-CC comprises a bar, a sound space, a book shop, and of course the hippest collections from Ann Demeulemeester, Achilles Ion Gabriel, and Lanvin. Tucked away in the north-east corner of the city, the shop can be visited by appointment only.
Not far away, and also in East London, is the Goodhood Store, a boutique that specializes in trendy, independent labels from all over the world. Collections like Opening Ceremony, Australia’s Rittenhouse, Peter Jensen and APC Madras are on display in the stylish store, which has a womenswear emphasis. There are also several affordable, but undoubtedly cool accessory brands.
Around the corner, you can find Start Boutique. It has been there for years but is always a must if you’re in the neighborhood. Brands like Helmut Lang, Church’s, T by Alexander Wang, Paige, Kenzo, and Maison Martin Margiela, as well as the house collection Mr Start and Mr Start Woman can be found here.
Hostem in Shoreditch is guaranteed to get the fashion-conscious man’s heart beating faster. In its hip East London interior the store holds styles from Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons, as well as handmade shoes from Sebastian Tarek. It is also worth paying a visit to the new womenswear section of this trend store.
RESTAURANTS
Peruvian restaurant Coya is a culinary heaven, a high quality restaurant in a prime location on Piccadilly, with a traditional Latin American atmosphere. The who’s who of the fashion world, heads of state and typical London bankers can all be seen here, enjoying spicy beef and drinking cocktails – Pisco sours. In the bar on the first floor, live jazz-inspired music lures you to the dance floor.
Those who prefer cool to up-market should visit the “in” bar La Bodega Negra. Don’t be put off by the restaurant’s exterior, it’s not really a sex shop but a bar with a restaurant serving Mexican food. The mango and jalapeño scallops and the margaritas just have to be tried.
If you’re in search of an affordable yet centrally located and hip alternative, you can’t go wrong with Meat Liquor. Famous for its burgers, this restaurant is hidden away just off Oxford Street. A dome emblazoned with elaborate graffiti stretches over the dining area. It does get loud there, but it’s still the perfect place to see and be seen.
PUBS & BARS
Punchbowl, the pub that used to belong to Guy Ritchie, is still a top venue for the Mayfair rich and beautiful. But it also boasts the typical British pub atmosphere and serves good British fare.
If it happens not to be raining, Radio on the top floor of the ME Hotel is the one bar that allows you to admire London’s beautiful landmarks from above. During the day on Saturdays, there are parties with good lounge music and house music, where you can eat brunch but also dance the day away.
CLUBS
Drury Club in Covent Garden combines the style of the chic West End with the cool East End and is intended for those who would rather party than sleep. With good drinks, good music, and interior design that sets it apart from most other clubs, a good evening is guaranteed.
Check out Chakana, which opened its doors for the first time in November. Latin American-inspired, they play deep house music and offer a few of the most creative cocktails on the London club scene.
HOTELS & MORE
The ME Hotel is part of the Melia group and – thanks to its location in The Strand, directly opposite Somerset House – it is the ideal base for London Fashion Week. The rooms are stunning, and every evening there is a laser show in the pyramid-shaped lobby.
No doubt about it, 45 Park Lane, a Dorchester Hotel, has the biggest and most comfortable beds and rooms, all of which look out over Hyde Park (make sure to stay on the top floor so that you can get a glimpse of Hyde Park over the trees). Add to that Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant, CUT, serving excellent mini burgers, and this hotel really is a “home away from home.”
The Edition Hotel in Fitzrovia is one of the newest arrivals on the hotel scene and its location, in close proximity to Soho with its night clubs, bars, and restaurants, is unbeatable. The hotel, which is part of the Marriott group, combines English elegance with modern flair. The Michelin starred restaurant and the bar are just as inviting as the tastefully furnished rooms. To top it all off, the penthouse suite has a 360° panorama view of London.
For the full London experience, be sure to go to Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge for a fashionista’s afternoon tea. Balenciaga’s black and white chocolate mousse dress on a walnut brownie would be enough to tempt even the strongest willed model to abandon their diet. Conveniently, the hotel is right by Harvey Nichols and Harrods, both of which are an integral part of any visit to London.
EVEN MORE TIPS
WeAr also recommends the department stores Selfridges and Liberty, as well as multi-label stores Dover Street Market, Wolf & Badger, Matches, and Folk. Other great bars include Mr Foggs, Sketch, Hoxton Pony, and Experimental Cocktail Club. Restaurants worthy of mention are Bunga Bunga, Death by Burrito, Burger & Lobster, Aqua at the Shard, and – for British food – Bumpkin Chelsea. When it comes to hotels, we also rate the Sanderson Hotel, The Connaught, Blakes Hotel, and The Ampersand. And as for clubs, try LouLou’s, Cuckoo, The Box, and Le Baron.
Adresses
STORES:
LN-CC: Late Night Chameleon Cafe
18 Shacklewell Lane
Dalston
London E8 2EZ+44 (0)20 7275 7265
http://www.ln-cc.com/
Hostem:
41-43 Redchurch Street, London, E2 7DJ, UK
http://www.hostem.co.uk/
Goodhood Store
41 Coronet St, London N1 6HD, United Kingdom
44 20 7729 3600
HOTELS:
Edition Hotel:
10 Berners St, City of Westminster, London W1T, United Kingdom
+44 20 7758 8393 www.edition-hotels.marriott.com
ME Hotel: Adresse: 336-337 Strand, City of Westminster, WC2R 1HA
Telefon:0808 234 1953
http://www.melia.com/hotels/united-kingdom/london/me-london/index.html
45 Park Lane: Adresse: 45 Park Ln, London W1K 1PN
Telefon:020 7493 4545
http://www.45parklane.com/
RESTAURANTS:
Meat Liquor: Adresse: 74 Welbeck St, London W1G 0BA
Telefon:020 7224 4239
meatliquor.com/
The Berkeley: Adresse: Wilton Pl, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RL
Telefon:020 7235 6000
http://www.the-berkeley.co.uk/
La Bodega Negra: Adresse: 16 Moor St, London, Greater London W1D 5NH
Telefon:020 7758 4100
http://labodeganegra.com/
Coya Adresse: 118 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London, Greater London W1J 7NW
Telefon:020 7042 7118
http://www.coyarestaurant.com/
The Drury Club, 167 Drury Lane, London, WC2B 5PG T – 020 7831 9399
http://www.thedruryclub.com
Chakana
23 Orchard St, London W1H 6HL http://chakanaclub.com
PUB:
Punchbowl 41 Farm Street London W1J 5RP +44 (0) 20 7493 6841
www.punchbowllondon.com
Novomania – the exclusive interview to the start of the show
NOVOMANIA, THE TRADESHOW WHICH BRINGS INTERNATIONAL FASHION TO CHINA, HAD ITS START TODAY.
READ THIS INTERVIEW WITH GUILHERME FARIA, GENERAL MANAGER OF NOVOMANIA, CONDUCTED ON THE SHOW NOT ONLY TO GET AN IDEA ABOUT THE SHOW BUT ABOUT SHANGHAI AND ITS FASHION SCENE IN GENERAL.
What is special about Novomania?
We really understand the fashion market as Novo was a retailer and a distributer so we understand what the brands want and what the market wants. The joint venture with UBM brought in the exhibition side and this made it possible to create something special about the show.
We introduce new international concepts to the market. These don’t only have to come from the international market to China but can also origin from China. This country is starting to produce very interesting things, and it is just a matter of time until these creative Chinese brands go international.
What can European and US companies expect if they exhibit at Novomania?
Independently of how big you are in your own country, in China the amount of people who know you is limited. And if they don’t know and understand the concept of your brand, they will not buy your product. So you have to expose yourself and show your brand to the people. We are the only platform where you can do this.
For the Chinese customer, it is more about the image of a brand than about the product. What we offer, is a platform for brands to introduce their concept to the best in fashion of China.
Tell us a wisdom about the fashion business in China.
The most important thing is, that you don’t leave the market on its own. This market is too important for any CEO than to just find a distributor. This market can completely change the roots of any company.
You come here and you have to adapt. You don’t need to change your product completely but your communication has to be different.
If you come here, you come as a trial and error.
Tell us the best places in Shanghai for shopping for fashion.
There are many places. It really depends on what you want. A couple of streets are famous like Nan jing road where the big monobrand stores are. Even though there are many new developments there, it is still very much a shopping mall culture, which is fairly repetitive. Novomania plays a major role in innovating this, as we give new concepts and new ideas. This is very important for shopping malls, as the only way to differentiate themselves, is to open multibrand stores. With multibrand stores, each store will always be different as it pushes a different brand or concept. Of course, also the little streets in the French Concession are great and you can find multibrand stores there, which are small corner stores made with love.
What are the best multibrand-stores in China and the best e-retailing websites?
There are a handfull of good e-retailers in China.
The most important group to mention is Alibaba, which developed the tmall.com platform. Unless you are registered as the legitimate brand you can’t sell your product there. This platform almost covers half of the market.
However, there are also a lot of independent sites and flash sales. The price still plays a big role, which is why campaigns are very important to have online.
At present there are more mono- than multibrand stores in China. Do you expect that to change in the future, if so – when?
It already changed in Russia and in China it will change even faster. Already, the Chinese ultra high-net worth individuals are looking for alternative brands to the known luxury brands as people don’t want to be confused with the up and coming middle class, which already can afford those luxury brands. This bears the opportunity for multi brand stores to establish themselves with sophisticated and new labels.
What should I not miss to see or do in Shanghai, apart from Novomania, when I am visiting your fair?
You definitely will realize that Shanghai is a dynamic and top developed city. But you should leave Shanghai to understand what China is really about. Come with an open mind as brands can learn a lot from coming here and hopefully they can open their mind and learn that China works in a different way and will certainly not adapt.
Please name a few good restaurants and places to go out at night in Shanghai.
Shanghai grew such an important hub for international companies, that the foreigners who come here bring quality and lifestyle. Restaurants on The Bund like el Willy or Mr and Mrs Bund, which is a contemporary modern French place, are good.
Lost heaven is a must for Chinese food for foreigners. There is one on The Bund and one in the French Concession.
As for nightclubs M1nt, Bar Rouge or Unico are good to visit. But also don’t forget all the bars and the hotels on the Pudong side.
What is your goal with Novomania in the near future?
We want Novomania to be the reference for fashion in Asia.
And my personal one is that i want to help transform fashion in China.
As a retailer from outside China, is it worth coming to Novomania?
We show not only up and coming Chinese brands but labels from countries like Korea, Japan, Australia and Hongkong. These brands you wouldn’t see anywhere else in the world. There are so many nice things popping up in China. And we see many and talk to many of them.
Win-Win Vintage
(for store addresses, scroll down)
In no other industry are old things so in-demand at the moment as they are in fashion.
Shamin Vogel
Designers draw their inspiration from vintage, savvy fashionistas set trends, and people use them to define their identities. Vintage can be ordered at fashion trade shows and there are websites devoted entirely to buying and selling second-hand treasures. Brands experience a revival when their once forgotten garments are worn again, and the best fashion stores today offer both current fashion and beautiful vintage pieces.
What is it about vintage that makes it so desirable? Maxfield in Los Angeles is probably one of the most successful stores worldwide when it comes to selling expensive vintage designer clothing and accessories. Luxury vintage pieces fill the impeccably curated concept store along with a selection of coveted contemporary designers. The store uncovers some of the most spectacular rare finds, like old Hermès suitcases and Chanel bags, and it is not uncommon for the pieces to go for upwards of 20,000 dollars. Deidre Wheaton and Sarah Stewart of Maxfield shed some light on the phenomenon: “They are pieces reflecting original ideas, special and reflective of the particular time period. Vintage uses fabrics, prints and techniques that may no longer be in production.” For Jeff Rudes, the CEO of US label J Brand, vintage sparks the creative process and can determine the direction of a collection for the season. Also aboard the vintage bandwagon is Luc Bierme, the manager of Who’s Next Paris, which includes a vintage market at each of the shows. He believes that it is important to give buyers the option of selling vintage. For a customer, it’s about finding that one special piece just for you. The huge variety of timeless pieces passed down from generation to generation serves as a source of inspiration for everyone.
Many retailers already combine vintage with the latest fashion and have found the approach to be very successful. According to Bierme, “These days everything in a multi-brand boutique must be for sale, even the decorations and furniture. Clients seek out these unique pieces as much as they seek out an accessory or a ready-to-wear piece.” A clothing store that also sells vintage presents customers with a contrasting point of view and helps them create a more individual look. The world’s first-ever vintage department store Blitz in London agrees. In general, reports David McKelvey, there’s a heavy demand for vintage concessions right now. The massive three-story space, with an in-store café, sells on-trend vintage fashion alongside home furnishings, books, records and accessories. Everything is organized by style and everything is for sale. But the last thing you think of upon entering is a thrift shop. Maxfield buyers Wheaton and Steward also emphasize that it’s not only the luxury quality of an old vintage gem, but also the familiarity of the designer that sells.
Vintage Store Tips:
besides Maxfield Los Angeles and Blitz in London, our experts gave us the following stores to go to find the best vintage:
Kili Watch
64 rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris
Open Mon 2-7pm; Tue-Sat 11am-7pm
Hippy Market
has various stores throughout Paris, check here: www.hippy-market.fr/boutiques/
Kilo Shop
also has various shops throughout Paris, check here: http://kilo-shop.fr/boutiques
Most important is at:
125 Bld St Germain
75006 Paris
Open Sun,Mon: 1:30pm-8:15pm, Tue,Wed: 11:30am-8:15pm, Thu, Fri,Sat: 11:30am, 8:45pm
Episode
has various stores throughout Europe, check here: www.episode.eu
Most recommended is at:
Waterlooplein 1
1011 NV Amsterdam
Open Mon-Sun: 10am-6pm
Resurrection
has stores in New York and Los Angeles, check here:
http://www.resurrectionvintage.com/index.php?contact
Decades
8214 Melrose Avenue
90046 Los Angeles
Open Mon-Sat: 11am-6pm, Su: 12pm-5pm
www.decadesinc.com
One of a Kind
259 Portobello Road
Notting Hill W11 1LR, London
Open Mon-Sun:10am-6pm
www.1kind.co.uk/
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