PLAYFUL UNCONVENTIONALITY

RECENT SEASONS HAVE WITNESSED DESIGNERS BLURRING GENDER LINES AND INCORPORATING PLAYFUL ELEMENTS INTO THEIR COLLECTIONS. WHAT’S NEXT FOR MEN’S FASHION?

For S/S 2023, the playful designs of recognizable fashion houses reflect the pulsating and nostalgic rebirth of spring. This season, the runway shows were dominated by vivid color palettes, eccentric prints, and relaxed silhouettes.

Floral influences were prominent in several collections. Loewe’s outerwear, denim, and footwear featured living greenery, while floral motifs appeared at Louis Vuitton, Marine Serre, S.S. Daley, and paria /FARZANEH. Impactful prints were also strongly in evidence this season. While abstract patterns were seen at Lukhanyo Mdingi and KidSuper, checks ruled at Prada, Hermès, and Gucci.

Outerwear trends ranged from relaxed overshirts and jackets in denim or leather to exaggerated full-length coats. With accentuated sleeves, vibrant prints, and tactile embellishments, the iconic trench coat continues to be reinvented for Spring 2023. At VTMNTS, The Row, and Saint Laurent, the staple outerwear piece appeared in oversized silhouettes in hues ranging from black to beige.

Thom Browne, Prada, and Celine affirmed the continuous influence of layering, where skirts were worn over trousers, tailored blazers over blazers, and jackets over jackets. Color mania is another recurring theme throughout the collections, from monochrome pastels at Craig Green, Alexander McQueen, and Dior to bold color combinations at Versace, JW Anderson, and MSGM. In recent seasons, menswear collections have become increasingly unorthodox and lively. As evidenced by this season’s fashion shows, playfulness and curiosity remain the defining traits.