by: Kristina Gligorovska
Iris van Herpen is a frontrunner in interweaving technology into fashion design. Everything she designs comprises innovation, mirroring the world we live in. For this edition of WeAr, she speaks about her vision of the future of fashion.
WeAr: How do you feel about experimenting with hybrid scenarios which seem to be the right formula for the fashion industry today?
I love thinking and creating in hybrid realities. The designs challenge our notion of reality, playing with the perception of the future and past. Haute Couture has an incredible history of craftsmanship, yet by entwining new technologies into them, the designs are showing a futuristic perspective of identity and materiality. I search for symbiotic relationships within my designs, exploring the hidden beauty at the intersection of the artificial and the organic, nature and technology, combining a thread and a needle with high-tech to symbiotically blend them. This philosophy of duality has interestingly been ground in all my designs. This philosophy of duality has interestingly been ground to all my designs from the beginning. So the current technological evolution into the metaverse is a natural one. In the digital designs, we can express this duality even further and the full vision of concept and inspiration is extended into the whole space around and beyond the body.
WeAr: Being a couturier, you fuse multi-disciplinary technologies with refined artisanal craftmanship, echoing immersive sensory experiences. Is it possible to transfer that notion to digital clothes?
Absolutely, in all the designs and shows, I’m exploring performance and metamorphoses. The designs transform through motion and often seem to defy the laws of our physical reality. Through my dance background, I learned that movement and transformation are our most powerful language of seduction. Designing digitally is so exciting because I can push the boundaries of surrealism, motion, and metamorphosis even more. Multiple realities can apply at the same time in one garment. And a garment becomes a story through time, like music. Through the mixed reality transition I’m working on, I want to create synaesthetic experiences. Synaesthesia is when our senses are mixed, you can feel sounds or taste colors, for example. I have a bit of synaesthesia as when I hear beautiful music, I start seeing patterns. This multi-sensorial experience is what I want to give people through my mixed reality experiences. Twelve years ago, I made my Synesthesia collection, dreaming of shifting the public sensorial reality. The time for such an emotional shift is becoming possible now.
WeAr: You connect with your clients on many levels when creating garments. How do you achieve a holistic experience for a customer in the metaverse?
Very good question. The metaverse is developing, and it is inspiring to bring the client’s journey into the metaverse in the near future and bring them even closer to the creative process, from sketch to final stitches. Currently, clients visit the atelier one, two or three times for fitting; at that moment, they have a glimpse of the process. In the future, they will be able to visit our metaverse atelier with their avatar, experiencing all the key moments of the process as they would during the physical fittings in the atelier in Amsterdam. They will experience our mixed reality show in Paris, seeing physical models and mixed reality performances with digital designs combined. This is an overwhelming experience that they will be able to experience again at home afterwards. Before we start our client’s custom design journey, the client visits the Iris van Herpen metaverse museum. They walk through all the archive pieces and experience performances and shows to fully dive into our DNA to be immersed in the creative vision and start imagining their new IVH design.
WeAr: Everything you design comprises technology and innovation, mirroring the world we live in. Your approach speaks at a great level to a younger generation – the early adopters of the metaverse. Do you plan to enter the metaverse/the NFT world?
Absolutely! We have been working on this for two years now. As a perfectionist, I want the metaverse designs and performances to be as wholesome and detailed as the physical Haute Couture. Part one will be unveiled in two months.
WeAr: You are a prominent voice for sustainability. In your opinion, does the metaverse hold solutions to the environmental problems created by the fashion industry?
Indeed, the big promise of the metaverse and digital designs is that brands will first release their collections digitally, their customers can respond, and the brand will know which designs are popular. This selection will then be produced physically. A major flaw in the traditional fashion system is the inexact matching of supply and demand. Between 30 and 40 percent of all the garments produced are never sold – take a moment to realize this. Creating the collections digitally first can tackle the entire overproduction.
We – IVH, only do Haute Couture, meaning we only create what is ordered by our clients and therefore have zero overproduction. With the metaverse blooming, this can become a reality for every brand. Their customers can try on the digital creations on their avatar and order the pieces they love, and only the loved looks are produced physically.
WeAr: We hear very often that we need to rethink the fashion system. What would be the right way to grasp the potential of technology to amplify progress?
The system is utterly broken. It is painful to know how badly it functions and it needs to transform radically. Three things need to change: production, materials, and behavior.
Production: as mentioned above, 30 to 40 percent of the annual 148 million tons (estimated) of garments produced end up in landfill before being worn. This can be avoided by having consumers choose their favorite designs in the metaverse, they can wear the looks they love, go out, share it online with their community, and brands can transparently monitor what needs to be produced physically.
Materials: all brands can create entirely from sustainable materials; full transparency is needed to change each brand’s behavior. The blockchain can create full transparency of all the materials used, and where they come from, to even how and where the individual yarns are produced: each part of the process becomes visible. The brands behind in their sustainable transition will become visible, criticized, and perhaps even fined if laws are tightened.
Behavior: the last transition needed is our buying behavior, which we all hold power to change. On average each garment will be worn seven times before getting tossed (WSJ 2019). We can all buy fewer clothes and wear and treasure them for many years. This last change has to come from within; technology cannot change this.
WeAr: What represents your greatest challenge moving forward, and could you depict the design of tomorrow?
My greatest challenge is to keep on evolving, meaning creatively and evolving my vision. This has always been my greatest challenge as fashion creates a dialogue between our insides and our outsides.Both art and fashion are linked to our deepest desires, moods, and most personal expressions. Each collection we make is a search to reach beyond my understanding of female form and today’s definition of a garment. My greatest challenge is this continuous exploration of new forms of identity and a more conscious approach to fashion for the future.
We spoke about the brokenness of fashion’s system; on a contrary note, I have to talk about the positive transition the fashion community is going through. It has become so much more intellectual, inclusive, and conscious in recent years. Even the fashion press goes beyond the superficial and expresses politics, sustainability, and inclusivity. Fashion’s intellectual community is growing, and the young designers start from a very different perspective, wanting to do it differently, and looking for a new system of creativity. Being part of this new perspective, and steering it, is what is most important to me.
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