In our newest issue 63 of WeAr, we spoke to over 40 experts including retailers, showrooms, brands, suppliers, academics and trade shows, about what the future holds. Here we filter the voices of trade show representatives who offer their views on the possible scenario where S/S20 collections could be packed away and stored until S/S21, discuss potential shifts in the fashion calendar, and share not only advice but their own pandemic survival strategies.
Agostino Poletto, General Manager, Pitti Immagine
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, the sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry across the world. Some experts have proposed that SS20 collections should be packed and stored until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling what was originally meant to be SS20 collections next year, in SS21? Which items/product categories do you think would be best to hold back to next year, and which items do you feel can get sold this summer despite the pandemic? Agostino Poletto: Many countries have already exited or are coming out of the most acute phase of the pandemic and, in their department stores and shops, the 2020 summer collections are or will soon be available for purchase, even if a little later than usual. With some delay still, companies are starting to present to their customers the new collections that they have set up in recent months. It would be a shame if they didn’t. It would also be a problem of no small importance if they had to differentiate the stylistic research results and the efforts they made according to the uneven evolution of the health situation of their different international markets. The new collections will certainly be smaller, but they will still be there. The problem will be less accentuated for the basics, those with a lower fashion content.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will do for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the amount of fashion events around the world go back to normal once the crisis is over, or will it shrink and become more focused (e. g., by conflating Men’s and Women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the key events to happen? Agostino Poletto: Before the crisis, there was already a widespread dissatisfaction with the excessive advance of the collection dates and the somewhat anarchic multiplication of events due to the commercial strategies of the strongest brands. The drop in travel from one continent to another in the coming months will undoubtedly contribute to reducing this trend. And the general decline in tourism towards big international cities-fashion destinations and the related fashion purchases that have been one of the original drivers of the acceleration of collections and their seasonal offset will also be of influence. The co-ed shows – chosen but even abandoned by some brands – may represent a temporary response, dictated by practical needs; however, the two sectors still have different characteristics and dynamics. There will obviously be many more digital presentations and events, and the new normal will increasingly and in progressively more sophisticated ways include these technologies. However, these presentations will have to be able to respond to the prevalence of a more reflective mood, more attentive to long-lasting quality and the ethical and environmental sustainability of fashion consumption.
3) WeAr Magazine: What are your business’ key coping mechanisms during the pandemic? What are you doing to retain and incentivise your customers and to maintain your company’s financial health? Agostino Poletto: Already before the health crisis, we were working on a new digital platform for our trade shows. We were the first ones, about ten years ago already, to believe in the integration between the physical and virtual dimensions, in the world of trade shows too. Today, we are launching Pitti Connect, a platform that will help us manage a difficult moment and that will provide in new and advantageous ways a fundamental service for all our customers, those who will be present in Florence next September and those who will not be there but will be able to do business, make contacts, and keep up to date regardless, starting from the end of June already (and until the end of September), when Pitti Connect will be operational. Pitti Connect will extend, simplify and make features more empathic in terms of presentation of the collections, commercial relationships between exhibitors and buyers, and promotion and communication between them and all journalists and professionals. We will also use it to enhance the physical events that we will organize during the September trade show, which we obviously want to keep in a limited number.
4) WeAr Magazine: What are you doing to help brands who work with you? Agostino Poletto: The greatest help, pandemic or not, always remains never to fail to select the highest quality. And to apply the same criterion to the things we offer ourselves. Starting with all the services, digital and not only, that can make the work of companies more comfortable and profitable before, during, and after the trade show. And that, especially in a situation like the one we are going through, in addition to the objective of maximum safety can also contribute to reducing the trade show participation costs with more convenient set-up formulas, hospitality support through agreements with hotels, and direct promotions for the most important buyers from the most important markets.
Boris Provost, President, TRANOÏ
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, the sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry across the world. Some experts have proposed that SS20 collections should be packed and stored until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling what was originally meant to be SS20 collections next year, in SS21? Which items/product categories do you think would be best to hold back to next year, and which items do you feel can get sold this summer despite the pandemic? Boris Provost: For sure, the global sales of SS20 will be down and many retailers and brands will have products in stock at the end of the SS sales period. Regarding the collections of SS21, from what we know from our exhibitors, will make a mix between pieces from SS20, refresh with new items… The SS21 collections would be smaller with a miw of basic/neutral items and very creative products…link to the desire also of the consumers.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will do for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the amount of fashion events around the world go back to normal once the crisis is over, or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by conflating Men’s and Women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the key events to happen? Boris Provost: For September Paris FW, if we are able to make in happen in real (fingers crossed), the trade shows will present men and women collections. The sales period will be concentrated in SEPT & OCT. We are still hoping to organize our next event from 2- 5 of October. But from June, we will launch a digital platform which allow designers to present their collections, organize emeetings and epresentations of collections. We have no 100% guarantee to set up an event for next semester, that’s why digital services are more important.
3) WeAr Magazine: What are your business’ key coping mechanisms during the pandemic? What are you doing to help brands who work with you? Boris Provost: We did several surveys, webminars, instaliv… to support the brands, to well understand their needs and to adapt our offer of services. We learned that we could be efficient, creative and agiles at distance so find solutions and recreate our concept. Even if we are physically fare from our clients, we have never been so close of the concerns and worries.
Siro Badon, President, ASSOCALZATURIFICI (MICAM)
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, the sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry across the world. Some experts have proposed that SS20 collections should be packed and stored until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling what was originally meant to be SS20 collections next year, in SS21? Which items/product categories do you think would be best to hold back to next year, and which items do you feel can get sold this summer despite the pandemic? Siro Badon: The pandemic is constantly evolving and it isn’t easy to make predictions like that because you risk being proven wrong. Naturally, every firm will evaluate and choose the financial measures it considers best suited to tackling the crisis. It might prove advantageous for our sector to follow the example of the automotive industry, and revisit their 2020 models for next year’s collection. The ideal would be for our footwear manufacturers to make the 2021 model year, as they are doing in the auto industry i.e. to revisit some of their 2020 models to reflect 2021 fashion trends. Clearly, there will be few radical changes, although the lines should keep evolving.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will do for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the amount of fashion events around the world go back to normal once the crisis is over, or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by conflating Men’s and Women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the key events to happen? Siro Badon: Our sector differs slightly from the fashion world. In fact, on our catwalks we tend to show the overall trends for the season, rather than focusing on individual brands. One thing is certain. Footwear companies are keen to get restarted, and they see the big trade-fairs as key to relaunching their business. Amongst these events, Micam represents a unique business opportunity. Not surprisingly, a GRS survey on the needs of the industry at this difficult time, commissioned by the International Footwear Fair, showed that a large number of companies (75% of those surveyed) consider Micam to be an unmissable event. A result backed up by the numerous companies that chose to keep the same size stand as they had in previous editions (a preference expressed by over 75% of those interviewed).
3) WeAr Magazine: What are your business’ key coping mechanisms during the pandemic? What are you doing to help brands who work with you? Siro Badon: During the pandemic our businesses were in total lockdown since, unlike the textile industry, no-one was able to reconvert any of their production lines. During this phase, we focused heavily on digitalization and the web, seeing as the restrictions imposed by the various government decrees meant that all shoe and clothes shops were temporarily closed. In collaboration with Brandsdistribution, we launched BDroppy: a digital platform that allows our Made-in-Italy brands to sell their products directly all over the world and maximise their advertising and marketing investments.A technological resource that can help dispose of the excess stock that has accumulated particularly in this period.
https://www.milano.themicam.com
Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry worldwide Some experts have suggested packing and storing SS20 collections until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling the collections originally called SS20 collections in SS21 next year? Which items / product categories do you think are best to hold back for next year, and which items do you think can be sold this summer despite the pandemic? Olaf Schmidt: First of all, unfortunately, we have to state that the current season is a bit of a lost season? In this respect, the proposal to push the SS20 collection into next year is quite innovative. But the real problem is just being put off. The current situation drastically reminds us that there is far too much merchandise in circulation. We have to plan for the future now. If you think in terms of product categories, the occasional fashion will unfortunately have a hard time. Whereas athleisure wear and casual wear in general will still do. I am also convinced that sustainable fashion will continue to dominate the agenda, in all possible facets.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will mean for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the number of fashion events around the world return to normal after the end of the crisis or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by merging men’s and women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the most important events to happen? Olaf Schmidt: I think the fashion calendar will again be more business oriented. On the one hand, this will lead to a strengthening of the big fashion events, i.e. less regionality, and on the other hand, it will also focus on the big markets. And then the German market, and thus Fashion Week, will play a major role. But of course, the dates are confused for the time being and customers are also questioning the justification of the previous dates. We will react if necessary, but always coordinate with the other players.
3) WeAr Magazine: What are the main coping mechanisms of your company during the pandemic? What are you doing to support your brand partners and visitors? Olaf Schmidt: This is an extremely challenging time for us as Messe Frankfurt. We have not been able to hold any events worth mentioning since the end of February. With our textile portfolio, this means that around 20 textile fairs worldwide have been cancelled or postponed. It is particularly important for us at this time to be in close contact with our customers and partners. To this end, we make particular use of our social media channels, through which a great deal of dialogue takes place, and our newsletters. We have also taken part in several webinars in recent weeks. And reporting in the trade press about short interviews and statements is also immensely important. We are planning a virtual presence for Neonyt in the summer, although we still have to define the exact framework data here. An important recent learning: even today, a physical trade fair cannot simply be replaced by a digital event, quite the contrary. I am convinced that the anticipation of the events after the crisis will be greater than ever before.
https://www.messefrankfurt.com
Chen Dapeng, President, China National Garment Association and President CHIC
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, the sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry across the world. Some experts have proposed that SS20 collections should be packed and stored until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling what was originally meant to be SS20 collections next year, in SS21? Which items/product categories do you think would be best to hold back to next year, and which items do you feel can get sold this summer despite the pandemic? Chen Dapeng: Warehousing for SS21 is only possible to a limited extent, because firstly there are storage costs and secondly the warehousing is a loss of liquidity. Basics can easily be stored for SS21 and certainly also classic high-quality fashion. Reductions cannot be avoided because liquidity comes before profitability. However, there is agreement in the industry that large discount campaigns should not take place. Solidarity is required.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will do for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the amount of fashion events around the world go back to normal once the crisis is over, or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by conflating Men’s and Women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the key events to happen? Chen Dapeng: In fact, the season shift now envisaged by at least four weeks could also apply to the future. The speed of fashion will no longer be the future. The trade fairs can make corresponding contributions by setting the order dates later. If the fabric fair in Italy takes place in September instead of June, this will have consequences for the overall rhythm. The previous early rhythm is counterproductive for sales, because who wants to buy winter coats in June / July and linen clothing in December … With the dates in March and September, CHIC is already in time with a possible seasonal rhythm of the European ones postponed by one month fashion fairs and gives participants the opportunity to serve the Chinese market fairly during the sales times. CHIC encompasses all fashion segments, a concept that is successful for the Chinese market.
3) WeAr Magazine: What are your business’ key coping mechanisms during the pandemic? What are you doing to help brands who work with you? Chen Dapeng: After the outbreak of the Coronavirus, we are considering two situations of CHIC: postponement or cancellation and we made different plans for these two possibilities. When we saw the complexity of the epidemic at the end of February, we began to seriously consider what we should do for exhibitors and buyers if the exhibition was cancelled. Although the number of customers in most offline stores was greatly reduced at the time, the epidemic always ended, and many people will resume offline shopping. Even if the exhibition cannot be held, we must establish a new communication and trading platform for brands and buyers. We discussed many alternatives. In March, we decided to use Tencent Meeting and Ding Talk to establish a communication and trading platform for exhibitors and buyers, CHIC ONLINE, and hold online match-making and seminars. At the same time, we continue to hold online match-making on CHIC APP. All these activities are free. The fair took place from April 22 to 24 and run successfully.
But digital activities can only be a good supplement to a physical meeting, not a substitute. We think online will not replace offline, just like everyone was talking about whether e- commerce will replace physical business ten years ago. The internet will further facilitate offline exhibitions in the future, with more efficiency and lower costs, but it will never replace barrier-free communication and exchange between people at offline exhibitions.
Tom Nastos, Chief Commercial Officer, Informa Markets
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, the sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry across the world. Some experts have proposed that SS20 collections should be packed and stored until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling what was originally meant to be SS20 collections next year, in SS21? Which items/product categories do you think would be best to hold back to next year, and which items do you feel can get sold this summer despite the pandemic? Tom Nastos: Basic & Replenishment items can be held but Fashion items will need to be updated for 2021. Social , Wellness and Environmental Themes will drive consumer spending the balance of the year & 2021.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will do for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the amount of fashion events around the world go back to normal once the crisis is over, or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by conflating Men’s and Women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the key events to happen? Tom Nastos: Fashion Events around the world will have to convene the market and drive Commerce & Brand amplification. The timing of the events will reflect the changes in consumer spending and the ability of our industry to a See Now , Buy Now calendar.
3) WeAr Magazine: What are your business’ key coping mechanisms during the pandemic? What are you doing to help brands who work with you? Tom Nastos: Communicating , Sharing information and Education thru Webinars are key to coping with the current situation.
Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner at Premium Exhibitions
1) WeAr Magazine: Due to the pandemic, sales of SS20 collections are very slow throughout the industry worldwide Some experts have suggested packing and storing SS20 collections until next summer. What do you think about the idea of selling the collections originally called SS20 collections in SS21 next year? Which items / product categories do you think are best to hold back for next year, and which items do you think can be sold this summer despite the pandemic? Anita Tillmann: For some brands, there are certainly various ways to redistribute collection items. Others, on the other hand, are likely to find it difficult. That depends mainly on the trend level of the collections, the positioning and the product group. So-called classics or basics of a collection are usually season-independent anyway and small, unknown brands are much more flexible than well-known and globally distributed brands. There is no solution for all market participants.
2) WeAr Magazine: What do you think the current outbreak will mean for the future of the fashion calendar? Will the number of fashion events around the world return to normal after the end of the crisis or will it shrink and become more focused (e.g. by merging men’s and women’s shows)? If the latter, when and where do you expect the most important events? What is your position on digital events? Anita Tillmann: The worst thing that can happen to us is to come out of this crisis and not to have learned anything from it and not to have used the opportunities for improvement. On the basis of many discussions with our customers and the international network, I currently assume and hope that there will be more focus again and that this will be at all levels. The topic of merging ladies’ and gentlemen’s shows also affects trade fairs. Here we as PREMIUM GROUP have a clear advantage in an international comparison. We started back in 2003 with the aim of redefining classic trade fairs and transforming them. This included curating women’s and men’s brands with their associated segments and presenting the industry with a new, unique concept. I am convinced that this is an essential component of our success. I am also very grateful for our partners – for the openness with which they approached us and gave us the opportunity to implement and establish our concepts. On the subject of digital events, we are currently working on bringing together the best from the digital and physical worlds. In other words, not to strive for an either-or solution, but to be able to present our customers with a both-and offer. In doing so, we are positioning ourselves for something completely new, the ‘blended fashion event’. What does that mean? We combine the strengths and advantages of our ‘live events’, PREMIUM and SEEK, with the possibilities of ‘virtual events’, the digital marketplace. This ideally means digital transformation and networking for all brands and retailers. Information, inspiration and trade can be accessed from anywhere at any time, the worlds merge together. In our business you have to be flexible, demand-oriented, efficient and sustainable. This requires new approaches and solutions, which we will present for the first time in July with our partner JOOR.”
3) WeAr Magazine: What are the most important coping mechanisms of your company during the pandemic? What are you doing to support your brand partners and visitors? Anita Tillmann: Values and standards are very important to us. We believe that it is worthwhile to invest in long-term and partnership-based relationships. At the beginning of the pandemic, we actively approached our exhibitors and promised to release them from the signed contracts and to fully refund the space already paid for. Of course, everyone was delighted about this. We are also in contact with our customers by telephone, inquiring how they are doing and whether and how we can support them. We then did the same with our retailers. We know and appreciate most of our network for many years. We experienced the same support and encouragement in return when we had to cancel all of our events due to federal and state Covid-19 regulations. Our maxim: alone you can reach your goal quickly, together you can go much further.
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