by: Polina Beyssen
ENGLISH
IN THE UPCOMING SEASONS, DESIGNS PREVIOUSLY RESERVED FOR LINGERIE WILL GRADUATE FROM UNDERWEAR TO EVENINGWEAR, DAYWEAR AND OUTERWEAR
In New York, London, Milan and Paris, hyper-sensual and sophisticated silhouettes with corsetry, transparency, sheer bodices, cinched waists and body-molding styles, traditional boning, accentuated bras and other boudoir-inspired details dominated the runways.
Inspired by the seductive glamour of the designer’s 80s and 90s archives, the Mugler collection fuel-boosted this trend, revealing the structured translucid net corset details, sheer organza blouses, a hybrid corseted blouson, bias-cut dresses, futuristic textured leggings and couture-level tights worn as pants. The Versace show opened with sharp black silhouettes featuring a mini jacket, coatdresses and tops with a modern, very sculptural take on the sweetheart neckline. A revival of plunging necklines was also visible in the JW Anderson line with crystal rope bras tied over the dresses, while Saint Laurent and Christopher Kane collections featured ornamented cut-out tops.
Appealing to Tom Ford’s 90s aesthetics, Alessandro Michele at Gucci reinterpreted the sexiness theme with provocative S&M-like riding crops, revealing high slit lace silk dresses and skirts, high black, red or nude vinyl gloves and chokers. Meanwhile, Tom Ford himself created a series of polished colorful plastic molded tops and bras. Up-and-coming designers are exploring the trend too: young avant-garde brands such as Charlotte Knowles and Nensi Dojaka have lingerie and the almost-naked look in their DNA.
DEUTSCH
IN DEN KOMMENDEN SAISONS SCHAFFEN LOOKS, DIE FRÜHER EHER ZUR LINGERIE ZÄHLTEN, DEN SPRUNG IN DIE ABENDMODE, DAYWEAR UND SOGAR OUTERWEAR
In New York, London, Mailand und Paris dominierten ultrasinnliche und elegante Looks mit Korsagen, durchsichtigen Korsetts, geschnürten Taillen und formgebenden Styles wie traditionelle Korsettstäbe, auffällige BHs und andere erotische Details die Laufstege.
Inspiriert vom verführerischen Glamour aus den Label-Archiven der 80er- und 90er-Jahre wurde Mugler zum Vorreiter des Trends. Die neue Kollektion zeigt durchsichtige Strukturnetz-Korsettdetails, hauchdünne Organzablusen, einen Korsett-Blouson-Hybrid, Kleider mit Schrägschnitt, futuristisch texturierte Leggings und Strumpfhosen im Couture-Stil, die als Hosen getragen werden. Die Schau von Versace wurde mit stilvollen schwarzen Silhouetten eröffnet, darunter eine Mini-Jacke, Mantelkleider und Tops mit einer modernen, stark skulpturierten Version eines Herzausschnitts. Ein Comeback der tiefen Ausschnitte gab es auch bei JW Anderson, bei dem BHs mit Kristallträgern über Kleidern getragen wurden, während bei Saint Laurent und Christopher Kane ornamentierte Cut-out-Oberteile zu den Highlights zählten.
Alessandro Michele orientierte sich für die neue Gucci-Linie an der 90er-Jahre-Ästhetik von Tom Ford. Er setzt den sexy Trend mit provokativen SM-ähnlichen Reitgerten, hochgeschlitzten Spitzenkleidern und -röcken aus Seide sowie Vinyl-Handschuhen und Halsbändern in tiefem Schwarz, Rot oder Nude um. Tom Ford selbst kreierte bunt glänzende Tops und BHs aus geformtem Kunststoff. Auch aufstrebende Designer zeigen ein Faible für die neue Ästhetik: Junge Avantgarde-Marken wie Charlotte Knowles und Nensi Dojaka bauen ebenfalls auf einen Lingerie-Look, in dem viel Haut gezeigt werden darf.
by: Beatrice Campani
ENGLISH
IN THE LATEST MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS, TRIBAL MOTIFS MEET HIGHLY TECHNOLOGICAL DETAILS AND FINISHINGS
The modern nomad is the main protagonist of menswear collections, and he is traveling light: his clothes have designated compartments to contain his multiple gadgets, and their fabrics are so advanced that he doesn’t need to bring extra layers in order to keep warm. Welcome to the age of “Technofolk”: printed on a T-shirt, this term became the keyword of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan’s S/S20 collection as it reflects the brand’s signature attitude towards mixing high-tech materials with craft-inspired elements, such as patches or jacquard. However, it could also be applied to a number of other menswear lines.
This mood is captured in the Etro collection. With inspirations from different cultures, Kean Etro celebrates the brand’s wanderlust-fueled DNA with sophisticated fabrics and loose silhouettes. Cozy ponchos and bombers featuring tribal motifs with a lively naïf spirit meet hyper comfortable pants with elastic cuffs. Marni interprets the nomadic theme through tropical elements rendered in suit or camouflage looks, bringing together urban and ethnic vibes. Local craftsmanship is palpable in Loewe’s kaftans: their cotton is crafted in Bangladesh and their denim comes from Japan, while other materials are embroidered in Burkina Faso.
Juun.J offers suits with functional pocket details; the silhouettes of high-tech anoraks and jackets bear a resemblance to ponchos. At Berluti, folksy colors and prints reminiscent of tie-dye meet sporty styles and intelligent fabrics. And White Mountaineering, too, is inspired by extreme sports, combining functional details with layered images and patterns: Gore-Tex fabrics and shoes made in collaboration with adidas offer a technical touch, all while conveying a vagabond disposition.
DEUTSCH
IN DEN AKTUELLEN MENSWEAR-KOLLEKTIONEN TREFFEN TRIBAL-MOTIVE AUF TECHNISCHE DETAILS UND FINISHES
Protagonist der Herrenmode von morgen ist der moderne Nomade und der reist mit leichtem Gepäck: Seine Kleidung verfügt über allerlei Taschen für elektronische Gadgets und die Stoffe sind so innovativ, dass auch bei tiefen Temperaturen keine Extraschichten nötig sind. Willkommen im Zeitalter des „Technofolk“: Als T-Shirt-Aufdruck wurde das Wort zum Slogan der F/S-2020-Kollektion von Marcelo Burlon County of Milan. Er steht für die Wurzeln der Marke: Hightech-Materialien in Kombination mit handwerklichen Elementen wie Flicken oder Jacquard. Das trifft mittlerweile auch auf eine Reihe anderer Menswear-Linien zu.
So ist auch die Kollektion von Etro von diesem Trend geprägt. Mit Inspirationen aus verschiedenen Kulturkreisen zelebriert Kean Etro die Weltenbummler-DNA der Marke mit eleganten Stoffen und weiten Silhouetten. Bequeme Ponchos und Bomberjacken mit Tribal-Motiven und lebhaft-naivem Flair treffen auf komfortable Hosen mit elastischem Bündchen. Bei Marni zeigt sich das Nomaden-Thema als tropische Elemente auf Anzügen oder in Camouflage-Looks, die urbane und Ethno-Vibes vereinen. Die Kaftane von Loewe setzen auf lokale Handwerkskunst: Die Baumwolle dafür kommt aus Bangladesch, der Denim stammt aus Japan, die restlichen Materialien werden in Burkina Faso bestickt.
Juun.J entwarf Anzüge mit funktionellen Taschendetails; die Silhouetten der Hightech-Anoraks und -Jacken erinnern ebenfalls an Ponchos. Bei Berluti setzt man auf rustikale Farben und Prints im Batik-Look, gemixt mit sportiven Styles und intelligenten Stoffqualitäten. Und auch White Mountaineering ließ sich von Extremsportarten inspirieren und bietet einen Mix aus funktionellen Details mit übereinander gestapelten Drucken und Mustern: Gore-Tex-Stoffe und -Schuhe, die in Partnerschaft mit adidas hergestellt wurden, liefern den Techno-Touch, während der Stil der Kollektion mitten ins Herz des modernen Vagabunden zielt.
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