Berwich has created a capsule collection of trousers called Bibliotheca, as archive and research, together with Lacerba, well-known boutique in Rimini, composed of three fits for the contemporary and cosmopolitan man: trousers without or with one pleat and the cargo. These trousers, made of rustic coarse-grained fabrics such as herringbone, blends of linen, canvas and twisted cotton, are available in natural colors such as beige, tobacco and khaki.
News Type: General
Sustainability has formed a central role in Closed’s mission since the outset. Now they are presenting their first sustainability report with a brief retrospective glance.This successful history of the long-established and close partnerships Closed have nurtured paved the ground for key foundations for the high quality of Closed fashions. The secret to the quality of their garments and accessories lies in how they understand the concept of sustainability, now more than ever, they mention.
“We are convinced that a crucial aspect of sustainability is lower, but better consumption. It is our goal to produce carefully made, thoughtfully designed favourites for our customers to happily wear again and again, instead of constantly buying new fast fashion items. As a fashion company with a strong focus on denim, the first logical step was for us concentrate on turning out our jeans with greater environmental awareness, by reducing water and electricity consumption and virtually eliminating chemicals. In 2018, we launched our own eco-friendly denim line A BETTER BLUE together with our Italian denim partners. The Everest laundry and Candiani, the so-called greenest mill in the blue world, are pioneers in producing sustainable denim and constantly devising innovative eco-friendly fabrics and new low-impact dyeing and wash- ing processes. We are extremely pleased that our partners share their great expertise with us in order to support our ambitious goal: making our A BETTER BLUE jeans an eco-friendly product from the fabric down to the last stitch, while sustain- ing the same high quality, look and feel character of typical Closed jeans. It is a great achievement that we have managed to do this. With eco-friendly dyeing processes and low-impact washing methods, we saved at least 2,793,213 litres of water (almost 20,000 bathtubs), 265,424 kWh of electricity and 31,576 kg of chemicals in comparison to our conventionally produced jeans since A BETTER BLUE was rolled out. So far, we have recorded 91,526 A BETTER BLUE products.”
“In 2019, the line was extended by other sustainable materials like organic cotton and recycled elastane to further cut back on even more water and electricity and further limit the use of pesticides and fertilisers. Shortly after its launch, A BETTER BLUE raised the benchmark for production of sustainable products in the international denim industry. But we do not intend to stop here: our aim is to extend the range of A BETTER BLUE products for men and women every season like in autumn/winter 2020 with two thirds of our men’s jeans being part of our eco-friendly line. We are also increasing the volume of sustainable materials in the rest of our collection, e.g. all men’s jackets in autumn/winter 2020 are made completely of recycled fabrics.”
“Documenting and comparing all the facts and numbers in this report will help us foster improvements towards sustain- ability at Closed and boost awareness for this significant topic within our organisation, among our partners and with our customers. To show you that we care.”
- Our eco-friendly line. A BETTER BLUE cuts back water and electricity consumption and reduces emissions and the amount of chemicals added. The goal to produce thoroughly sustainable jeans from the initial idea involves both innovative, recycled and organic materials and low- impact washing methods and dyeing techniques. Every season sees a rise in the volume of A BETTER BLUE products for men and women that we produce.
- Sustainable materials. We also incorporate an increasing amount of organic cotton and eco-friendly materials (e.g. lyocell) in the rest of our collections.
- Local fabrics. To avoid air transport wherever possible and minimise our carbon footprint by keeping transport routes between suppliers short, the majority of our partners select local fabrics. Our Italian denim is being sewn together and washed in Italy, while most of our shirts and blouses are made from Portuguese cotton in Portugal. Our Asian partners have the expertise to handle Japanese qualities or technical Chinese fabrics.
- Code of Conduct. Closed’s Code of Conduct adhered to by all of our production partners enables us to rely on an official document that guarantees: no child labour, fair and statutory wages, paid overtime, safe and hygienic working conditions, fixed working hours and a maximum 48-hour working week. Every partner signs the Code of Conduct twice annually. Green energy. We consume green energy from renewable energy sources in our offices, warehouses and shops.
To view more visit the link.
The Dupont Sorona brand team is launching a new brand architecture and hangtag program designed to bring simplicity of choice and fabric confidence to designers and apparel brands. New fabric collections offered by mills are tested and certified through the DuPont Sorona Fabric Common Thread Certification Program to assure the fabrics have the unique molecular footprint of partially plant-based Sorona polymer as well as meet key fabric performance attributes. Starting now, apparel brands and designers will be able to request that mills provide their DuPont Sorona Fabric Common Thread Certificate to show their Sorona fabrics truly have the unique fabric performance and feeling that Sorona fibers provide.
“Fiber producers are able to create many unique constructions from Sorona®polymer enabling a wide variety of textiles exhibiting diverse performance properties from wrinkle-resistant outerwear fabrics to lightweight breathable insulation products, permanent stretch and recovery, and newly launched Sorona faux fur,” explains DuPont Biomaterials Global Marketing Director Renee Henze. “We are committed to ensuring that mills, designers and brands have clarity on our offering and that they can trust the source of the materials when they’re choosing fabrics using Sorona.”
New fabrics which are certified through the Common Thread Fabric Certification Program will provide the Sorona fabric performance characteristics that designers and apparel brands are searching for.
After more than a month in lockdown and following the country’s decision last week to partially lift emergency measures, GUESS reopened its Germany-based stores from the 22nd April 2020.
The stores, which were ordered to close by the German government on the 17th of March 2020, were reopened observing strict protocols and health measures, including regular sanitisation of surfaces, controlling the number of customers that access the store and limiting entry to changing rooms to one person at a time.
Safety signage displayed throughout the stores and GUESS is urging customers to respect social distancing measures, wear protective gloves and masks, and pay by card whenever possible to protect the safety of its customers and staff.
To avoid overcrowding and give customers some extra TLC at this difficult time, GUESS full price stores are offering their shoppers to book a special appointment with a GUESS shopping assistant, who will accompany them throughout their visit to the store. Although the store will be open to other shoppers, the customer can be assured of a specific time slot and personalised service to make their visit more relaxing and enjoyable.
During the international emergency, GUESS?, Inc. and The GUESS Foundation have donated over $1,300,000 to support numerous COVID-19 relief efforts, partnering with both national and international non-profit organisations to provide clothing, blankets, food, PPE, and medical aid to people in need.
The Kingpins24 digital event which just closed its (digital) doors, saw exhibitors, industry partners and thought leaders, who are all isolated and stuck at home and dealing with their own crises, rallied to make content to share with our audience in a matter of days. Then, THOUSANDS of their peers, colleagues, clients and friends joined in – some waking up in the dead of night to watch our livestream, others using the magic of AppleTV to push hours of our livestream and on-demand content to their TVs.
The denim industry, like all international business, has been heavily disrupted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But the denim community still needs to connect to share ideas, information and inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2021 season.
Throughout the event presented were:
Exhibitors on-demand: FW2021 presentations from the textile and trim exhibitors showcasing new offerings, sustainability missions & more…
Show Initiatives on-demand: Causes the trade show supports, ideas they want to share, voices you should know.
Interviews/Panels on-demand: Interviews, panels and conversations covering various subjects relating to the denim industry.
“We, as a whole, are resilient, resourceful and optimistic,” said Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show. “When one door closes another opens. We believe Kingpins24 can give our global industry a chance to connect and share information. We have no other desire but to be a conduit for the denim world during these difficult times, where most of us, including me, are at home far away from our normal world.”
Kingpins24 has not taken the place of a Kingpins trade show. Instead, Kingpins organizers have distilled the content, energy and point of view that make Kingpins Shows unique and brought that same mind frame and approach to an online event. The goal is for attendees to have an understanding of the denim supply chain’s offerings for the F/W 2021 season and much, much more.
As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to spread, businesses everywhere have been affected. For some brands, online sales have quickly become a way to both continue to sell products and to help relief organizations provide support to those affected by the virus. Below, are 3 designers that are supporting the COVID-19 Relief Efforts.
Sep Jordan
Sep Jordan is known for their embroidered table linens, which are made by refugee artisans. Now, their products are helping yet another good cause: For every purchase made, the business will donate $20 to COVI19 medical aid for Jordanian refugee camps. ‘In the face of the current COVID-19 situation, no one has escaped these life changing events, and the impact was overwhelming for refugees and those in the developing world. At SEP it has been our priority to support and protect residents of the Jerash camp throughout this pandemic. Our pledge for every online order received during the COVID-19 crisis, is that $20 will be spent on hand sanitisers, medicines and food in Jerash camp.’ Sep. Also in solidarity with our workers of the frontline, the nursing staff in Switzerland, as a very small thanks from SEP, each week, for the next few weeks, they will offer one of our “secchiello” bags embroidered by hand to someone nominated by the public who is working in the public health system.
Pangaia
Pangaia have delivered 10,000 N95 surgical masks to Mount Sinai Hospital in Queens one of the hardest hit boroughs in New York. Although they are young start up, their collective efforts and partnerships with JUST Bethenny Frankel and B Strong amongst others has made this possible. They thank and salute all the heroes putting their lives at risk.
Drajée Jewellery Hamsa Hand.
‘To help during the global pandemic Drajée London will be donating 10% of all their online sales split across both the Trussell Trust & the NHS COVID 19 Appeal. They have also created a little Hamsa Hand bracelet with 20% going to the NHS a little symbol of hope and solidarity. Both charities have been working tirelessly to ensure NHS staff and food banks are fully supported throughout the UK. The Trussell Trust are a nationwide network of food banks who provide emergency food and support to people locked in poverty, and campaign for change to end the need for food banks in the UK. In the UK, more than 14 million people are living in poverty – including 4.5 million children. They support more than 1,200 food bank centres in the UK to provide a minimum of three days’ nutritionally balanced emergency food to people who have been referred in crisis, as well as support to help people resolve the crises they face. Between April 2018 and March 2019, food banks in our network provided a record 1.6 million food supplies to people in crisis, a 19% increase on the previous year.
Capgemini has this week launched a new report, which looks at the impact of coronavirus on consumer shopping behaviour. The findings are based on a survey of over 11,000 global consumers at the beginning of April 2020.Some key findings of the research are:
Globally consumers are optimistic about recovery: 48% are optimistic about recovery from the current crisis in the next six months. When asked about the next 12 months, positive sentiment increases, with 70% optimistic about recovery. However, UK shoppers are more pessimistic: only 37% are optimistic that the UK will recover in six monthsAttitudes to in-store shopping: 59% of consumers worldwide said they had high levels of interaction with physical stores before COVID-19, but today less than a quarter (24%) see themselves in that high-interaction category. In next 6-9 months, only 39% of consumers expect a high level of interaction with physical stores – clearly below the pre-COVID levels.Automation is becoming a must-have: 57% of consumers would be more comfortable with complete in-store automation that does not require touch-based practices in a post-pandemic era (for example, product information search, in-store navigation, and order to payment is done on the consumer’s phone).Safety is now a key differentiator: 77% of consumers will be more cautious about cleanliness, health, and safety in the post-pandemic era. Nearly 62% will also switch to brands that show higher levels of product safety and 54% will prefer local items over imports due to safety concerns over the use of foreign products. This increased consumer awareness translates into increasing demand for safety measures during in-store shopping and delivery.
For Earth Day 50, Tommy Hilfiger highlights some of their sustainable product initiatives for this season…
“At Tommy Hilfiger, we’re committed to making fashion that wastes nothing and welcomes all. As part of this commitment, we are shipping a circular fashion brand- one which limits its carbon and water footprints, and where all the materials we use are part of a sustainable loop.” – Tommy Hilfiger
100% recycled denim
The Tommy 100% recycled denim styles feature stitching thread made from recycled plastic PET bottles. Using an innovative technique that blends cotton scraps from the factory floors of the apparel industry and bed linens of the hotel industry, the brand has reduced the amount of water and energy used to make a pair of jeans.
100% organic cotton
The brand’s organic cotton products contain independent certified organic cotton, meaning it was grown without chemical pesticides, chemical fertilisers and genetically modified seeds.
Recycled Polyester
The brand’s recycled polyester products contain independently certified recycled polyester from used textiles, manufacturing waste or plastic bottles, reducing its environmental impact.
GUESS? along with The GUESS Foundation, are launching multiple COVID-19 relief efforts, as part of their belief that we are #InThisTogether. Partnering with organizations to donate funds, clothing, and PPE, including 150,000 masks in Italy and Spain, and encourage blood donations to help support their global community during the COVID-19 crisis. The mission is simple: Give. Protect. Inspire.
Paul Marciano, Chief Creative Officer, commented: “At GUESS, we want to inspire our communities to fight the COVID-19 crisis with strength, hope, and support of each other. We must maintain this strength for our families, our community and our world, as, together, we can overcome anything. In order to provide essential and urgent resources for those in greatest need, GUESS is donating over $1,300,000 toward the relief of our global community.”
Give: In partnership with Good360, a global leader in product philanthropy and purposeful giving, GUESS?, Inc. will donate goods to its communities, including 45,000 pieces of apparel, as well as blankets and coloring books. Good360 has a vast non-profit network that can distribute clothing to those most in need. In addition, The GUESS Foundation and GUESS?, Inc. will make a donation to the LA Regional Food Bank to provide meals for struggling local families and children.
Protect: The GUESS Foundation, in partnership with Direct Relief, will donate funds toward personal protective equipment to help protect healthcare workers and essential service providers working on the frontlines in the USA. Separately, The GUESS Europe Foundation will directly source N95 masks to be distributed to hospitals in the Lombardy region of Italy and the Madrid region of Spain, two areas hit hard by the virus.
Inspire: GUESS?, Inc. will utilize its communication platforms, such as social media and its vast network of brand ambassadors, to drive awareness and amplify critical messages to help save lives. For example, GUESS is planning an information campaign regarding the need for donations to replenish the national blood supply. A single blood donation can save up to 3 lives, and the short amount of time it takes to donate blood can mean a lifetime to a patient with COVID-19.
The LYCRA Company will share its latest sustainable stretch and performance innovations at the Kingpins 24 livestream event on April 22-23. Kingpins is transitioning its spring denim tradeshow in Amsterdam to an online format amid COVID-19 concerns.
Under its EcoMade family of fibers, The LYCRA Company has developed a variety of offerings with pre and post-consumer content. The latest of these is the LYCRA EcoMade fiber, made partly with pre-consumer material, it’s certified to GRS standards, offering the same high-quality performance as the other LYCRA fiber offerings. Another stretch vehicle, LYCRA T400 EcoMade fiber, contains 50% post-consumer content and can be used in conjunction with LYCRA fiber for higher stretch with lasting shape retention.
The performance polyester fibers give new life to plastics – COOLMAX EcoMade technology helps keep the wearer cool and dry and is made with 100% post-consumer recycled materials. And for lightweight warmth, our THERMOLITE EcoMade fiber is engineered to help optimize comfort & performance.
To dispel some myths about sustainabilty the company will deliver a presentation titled “Sustainable Stretch – Get the Facts” April 22ndand 23rd. In addition, videos on The LYCRA Company’s Planet Agenda sustainability platform and LYCRA EcoMade fiber will run during the Kingpins 24 livestream.
“We want to thank Kingpins for giving us the opportunity to come together as a denim community and engage our customers on these important topics in a new and exciting way,” said Jean Hegedus, The LYCRA Company Sustainability Director. “At The LYCRA Company, we’re focused on developing solutions for a circular economy. Under our Planet Agenda platform, we are also working on technologies for recycling stretch garments, extending garment wear life, and helping our customers use fewer, and more sustainable resources.
Kingpins 24 will feature livestreamed panel discussions, interviews and exhibitor presentations focused on sustainability and corporate social responsibility, plus a variety of on-demand content about the denim supply chain’s offerings for the upcoming seasons. Registration is now open which grants free access to the livestream and on-demand content.
British Fashion Council has announced that for the next twelve months all London Fashion Weeks will merge womenswear and menswear into one gender neutral platform, to allow designers greater flexibility. For this June, London Fashion Week, will take a new form, as a digital-only platform in light of the current environment, and will run from 12th June 2020 through the time period of former London Fashion Week Men’s. The digital platform www.londonfashionweek.co.uk will relaunch and be for both trade and consumer audiences; embracing the cultural commentary, creativity and humorous spirit for which British fashion and London are known for.
Caroline Rush CBE, BFC Chief Executive commented: “It is essential to look at the future and the opportunity to change, collaborate and innovate. Many of our businesses have always embraced London Fashion Week as a platform for not just fashion but for its influence on society, identity and culture. The current pandemic is leading us all to reflect more poignantly on the society we live in and how we want to live our lives and build businesses when we get through this. The other side of this crisis, we hope will be about sustainability, creativity and product that you value, respect, cherish. By creating a cultural fashion week platform, we are adapting digital innovation to best fit our needs today and something to build on as a global showcase for the future. Designers will be able to share their stories, and for those that have them, their collections, with a wider global community; we hope that as well as personal perspectives on this difficult time, there will be inspiration in bucketloads. It is what British fashion is known for.”
This new digital experience will be open to a global public and trade audience, and will work as a meet-up point, offering interviews, podcasts, designer diaries, webinars and digital showrooms, giving the opportunity to designers to generate sales for both the public through existing collections and the retailers through orders for next season’s products.
Premium Exhibitions has confirmed that due to government regulations it won’t be holding the event as planned from 30th June till 2nd of July 2020.
Due to the coronavirus crisis, in April the dates of the PREMIUM GROUP’s events were provisionally moved from the original schedule of 31 June-2 July 2020 to 28 -30 July. Now, the Federal and State governments have decided to cancel large-scale events with over 1,000 visitors until 31 August 2020.
A statement from Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP:
“We greatly regret the decision of course, especially after the success of our January events. The ban on large-scale events has been around for some time and has been publicly discussed. It hurts us to do it, but we are also conscious of our responsibility. If cancelling our trade shows, conferences and parties contributes to the safety of our customers and visitors, then we have to take this step.We are in close contact with all our brands and partners and have spent the last four weeks discussing possible approaches, concepts and new focal topics for the summer.
The bottom line is that digitalisation is clearly the focus. It’s all about using the time over the next few months sensibly. The timing for brands and retailers is now right – all market participants are aware of the necessity of this.We have been working closely with JOOR, the leading B2B marketplace globally, for around a year, after successfully integrating our own digital platform, Veee.com. JOOR has digitalised the entire procurement process and ensures a seamless, functioning wholesale process on an international scale – both for brands and retailers. We shall shortly be offering webinars on this and can offer our customers an optimal, digital ordering solution so as to use this time of the pandemic efficiently.
Our trade show formats have been about more than just ordering for a long time now. They are about encounters, emotion, inspiration, communication and, finally, the fashion community getting together. Although lots can take place digitally nowadays, it doesn’t replace physically meeting up in person. We have seen this more than ever in the present situation. We are going to work on new concepts for 2021, and we will liaise with the key stakeholders in Berlin and with all others too to ensure we hit the ground running again. We’re taking on the challenge and will come back to the industry when we have news.”
Pinko was one of the first brands to sign on to Shanghai Fashion Week after organizers announced plans to move the entire event online. In under two weeks, Pinko staged a “See Now, Buy Now” runway show, featuring 25 looks from its current collection against a virtual backdrop.
The garments were designed with confident and determined modern women in mind – those who were “ready to take life always by the horns, even in difficult times like these,” said Pietro Negra, CEO and founder of Pinko.
The digital fashion-show experience was very positive, said Negra. “I am especially surprised by the ability to react and implement, in such a short time, an event with a worldwide resonance.”
Participating in the new digital format was a natural decision for the brand, which values innovation and experimentation, he said. The use of digital technologies also allowed Pinko to maintain sales in China and keep customer relationships alive amid the coronavirus outbreak.
Negra said the brand will invest further in livestreaming to build greater interactions with consumers on Tmall. He said particularly in China, where young consumers are highly informed and digitized, brands need to step up efforts to win their attention and loyalty.
“For Pinko, Tmall is not only a sales channel but a vehicle for promotion and awareness,” Negra said
The federal and state governments in Germany have decided, due to COVID-19, to suspend all major events up to and including end of August 2020. This of course will change the situation for Berlin Fashion Week, which was planned to take place end of June, early July.
With Neonyt being a key player in Berlin, and international the leading sustainability trade show, this creates a new situation as the show was planned from June 30th – July 2nd this year. The organisation has thus announced that it will not take place in its current form as the ‘government’s decision have their purpose and everyone’s health comes first – we understand, accept and support that’.
The organisation for now thanks its supporters and exhibitors as it underlines its awareness that a show is a vital place to meet and network as well as its appreciation of the resources and time exhibitors spend for their trade show appearance. “We have not lost confidence that the situation will still relax in a few months and that under certain conditions it may be possible to implement the event at a later date – so we are still examining the possibility of scheduling the event this late summer.” The organisers are also thinking of virtual and digital formats. The non-binding registration for exhibitors at Neonyt is therefore still possible. However, the organisation underlines that the health of its participants, exhibiotrs, visitors and staff are pivotal and all decisions will be made in strong consideration of this.
“We are in close contact with other market participants and the responsible authorities in Berlin. Our goal is to provide the industry with a secure, positive and forward-looking environment as a valuable stimulus for business after the crisis. We therefore do everything we can to create a presentation platform in the second half of the year – in whatever form and at whatever date – and keep you up to date with all developments.”, says Thimo Schwenzfeier, show organiser. Neonyt will not be the only show affected by this decision. Premium Exhibitions with its formats Premium, Seek and FashionTech is scheduled during the same dates and expected to make an announcement soon. This is after shows like Pitti Uomo have already moved their dates to September. WeAr will keep you updated and a full calendar of show events can be found here.
KHARIS AGLAI is an Italian fashion house based in Marche region founded in 2018 by the designer Karisia Paponi. The garments are made through sartorial and artisan procedures, combined with experimental proposals in the choice of fabrics and materials, with a hint of sportswear and a glamorous attitude to everyday life.
The KHARIS AGLAI “Sublime Glamour” collection F/W 2020-2021 is a tribute to everything that the designer Karisia Paponi considers essential in a woman’s wardrobe, a definition of her stylistic dictionary.
The attention paid to everyday life and its moments is explicitly stated by the choice of the development of experimental outerwear: plissé bombers, with a sculpted volume and irreverent character, contrast with the oversized down jacket with adjustable drawstring, original and easy to combine.
The t-shirts by Kharis Aglai, made of transparent pleated organza, give a romantic allure to the entire collection. The choice of the color palette is oriented towards the color blocks, one of the main signa- tures of KHARIS AGLAI, which we find in the suits with oversized double-breasted blazers and in tailored skinny pants. From the pitch black of the outerwear garments, through the shocking pink of the stretch wool suit, toward skin tones to soften and create balance, up to a classy army green that we find in the corset, which KHARIS AGLAI brings back into vogue in a contemporary key. The corset lacing is re-proposed in 90’s leather ankle boots.
The core of KHARIS AGLAI’ s commitment to sustainable fashion is the “Dead stock Editions” capsule collection, which is developed within each collection, in this season composed of three patchwork pieces: the sleeveless mini dress, the long sleeves high neck blouse, the outdoor technic-fancy jacket. These three pieces, made with stock materials, are tinged with other colors, and take a totally irreverent attitude towards the rest of the collection. A touch of jade green embroidered on an aquamarine sequin fabric becomes “delicately explosive” when combined with an iridescent and reflective neoprene fa- bric. A limited series of pieces with high craftsmanship that makes the style of the brand unmistakable.
As the Government’s new ‘home isolation rules’ came into force throughout March, the fashion industry was sent into a whirlwind of unprecedented uncertainty. In a month where Spring buying would typically set in, online clothing sales were down -23.1% Year-on-Year (YoY), according to the latest IMRG Capgemini Online Retail Index, which tracks the online sales performance of over 200 retailers. Digging deeper into fashion sales, menswear was down a staggering -42.9% and footwear was down -32.8%.
Indicative of a very mixed set of results on a category level, the warmer weather and increased amount of time spent in the garden during the lockdown sent online garden sales soaring to +94.4% YoY. Beauty also continued to build on strong February sales, spiking to +36.0%, while electricals recorded March’s third standout performance – surging by +40.2%. In fact, during week 2 of the month when the Government raised the outbreak risk from moderate to high, electrical retailers saw sales jump by +47.7% YoY as consumers turned to home entertainment and raced to set up their offices.
With the category results doing their best to balance each other out, the overall growth for March limped in at -5.1% YoY – well below the 12-, 6- and 3-month rolling averages (+4.5%, +6.7% and -2.1% respectively) but still above last month’s performance by +2.6% (MoM). Perhaps marking the start of stockpiling, March started off with poor online sales for the first fortnight, but seemed to recover in weeks 3 and 4 following the Government’s announcement of official home isolation rules on March 17.
Meanwhile as they are forced to shift more operations into the digital sphere, multichannel retailers outperformed their online only counterparts for the first time since April 2019, recording growth of -4.0% versus -5.5%.
Lucy Gibbs, managing consultant – Retail Insight, Capgemini: “Online sales performance this month is a mixed story, as retailers are faced with a multitude of challenges. ‘Non-essential’ stores closed their doors on the high street which led to the majority of multichannel retailers gaining a boost in online performance in the latter half of the month as consumers channelled their demand into digital. However, the changing demand and customer needs has also polarised impacts on different product categories where the appetite for fashion dropped off significantly compared to garden, home and electrical which are seeing unusually high demand as we spend more time at home.<>
Next month we are likely to see a continued rise in online demand however it has never been more important to listen to consumer needs to respond to new spending patterns, communicate in a way that resonates with the concerns and needs of customers and using datapoints to inform next steps as we navigate through the changes”<>
Andy Mulcahy, strategy and insight director, IMRG: “There is a bit of a myth going around at the moment that online sales are booming. It’s more accurate to say some online retailers are experiencing huge demand, outstripping even that seen over Black Friday, because so many people are in the exact same situation – ie stuck at home. That has created very lopsided demand among product categories.
“People simply don’t have much need for new clothes or shoes at the moment, which is why at the overall level sales growth is down. How and when a stronger balance in demand might be established is a pressing question for retailers currently on the wrong side of that divide.”
Canadian outerwear brand Nobis, has announced its global initiative with which 100% of proceeds from online sales in April will be donated to healthcare facilities at the forefront of the fight against COVID-19.
The program will be complemented with a $ 100,000 donation to hospitals in the state of Ontario. “Nobis,” we, “in Latin has always had a clear importance on the community, we are very proud and grateful to our health workers whose courage and selflessness are a beacon of hope in these uncertain times. Never before has this been necessary support our community. For this reason Nobis is doing everything that is possible for recognize and support the incredible sacrifice of people at the forefront of this battle.” says Robin Yates, Co-founder and Vice President of the brand
Customers who make a purchase from the Nobis.com site during this time will have the option at when checking out, send the donation to an organization of their choice from those mentioned.
The German sustainable label Lovjoi is offering a makeshift mouthguard which is” Made in Germany” from 100% TENCEL fabric by Lenzing. This lyocell fiber has many positive properties and is therefore well suited as a material for makeshift mouth protection:
Lyocell is temperature regulating, anti-allergenic, resistant to mites and bacteria, moisture-absorbing, tear-resistant and durable. The makeshift mouthguard can be washed with laundry up to 95°C or disinfectant. The fiber is also used in textiles in the medical field and in industrial products. Mixtures of polyester and lyocell are already used as work clothing for nursing staff and doctors.
The makeshift mouthguards from Lovjoi are manufactured by hand in their own company in southern Germany and are available in numerous colors and patterns.
The Board of Directors of Pitti Immagine made decisions regarding the calendar of the Pitti Uomo fairs scheduled for the 2020 summer season with a new calendar as below:
Pitti Immagine Uomo no. 98 is confirmed and will move to 2 to 4 September (3 days), once again at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence
Pitti Immagine Bimbo no. 91 is confirmed and will move to 9-10 September (2 days), at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence
Pitti Immagine Filati no. 87 is confirmed and its exact position on the calendar will be discussed at the next Technical Committee, scheduled for April, 8th
Fragranze no. 18 is confirmed with the original dates, 11-13 September, at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence
Super n. 16 is confirmed with the original dates, 24-27 September, at the Padiglione Visconti in Milan
Taste no. 15, which was rescheduled for the beginning of June, is canceled and postponed until the next ordinary dates for 2021 (13-15 March)
Moreover, in agreement with the indications expressed by the Chief Executive of Stazione Leopolda, Agostino Poletto, the BoD of Pitti Immagine acknowledged and agreed with the decision to postpone the first edition of Testo (the event dedicated to Italian publishing already rescheduled for the beginning of June) until the second half of February 2021.
“Over the last few weeks we have obviously been in constant and close contact with manufacturing companies in Italy and abroad” says Claudio Marenzi, President of Pitti Immagine “as well as with other actors operating in the three textile-fashion sectors, including organizations like Confindustria Moda and Camera della Moda Italiana. The strong request that emerged was to maintain at all costs the leading rendezvous like the Pitti fairs which will be the first fundamental instruments to be activated in order to gradually get the entire commercial fashion industry machine going again. And that is what we will be working on non-stop over the next few months. Postponing Taste and Testo to 2021, two events in which our Group has a lot of faith, was a very painful but necessary decision. The objective conditions do not exist for organizing those sort of rendezvous in June, as has already been demonstrated everywhere else”.
The Kingpins New York trade show originally scheduled to take place on June 2nd and 3rd, 2020, has been cancelled due to health concerns and travel restrictions related to COVID-19.
In a statement Kingpins mentioned “Kingpins cancelled its June show in New York as the coronaviris crisis continues to keep people around the world at home in hopes of flattening the curve and reducing the impact of COVID-19 on all of our daily lives. By now, we all know someone affected by this crisis. And, sadly, we are likely to be further impacted as medical professionals work to contain the disease while they treat patients and look for a cure. The scale of the economic impact on us all is impossible to measure. But there is comfort in community and Kingpins has always been about fostering community, working together and looking for ways to innovate our industry.”
On April 22 and 23 Kingpins24 will take place, the online event created to bring the industry together in these uncertain times.
Jeanologia, world leaders in sustainable and eco-efficient technology development, has repurposed its ozone based G2 technology, which it uses for the sustainable treatment of jeans into an innovative method for sanitization and disinfecting face protection masks.
Making its technology the last link in the production chain for certain sanitary equipment, before being delivered to the hospitals. Considered an “essential” business by the Spanish government during the COVID-19 crisis, the company is making a great effort, working together with other technology centers and universities in coordination with the government, and acting altruistically.
Enrique Silla, Jeanologia’s founder, has highlighted that “facing the global uncertainty, we have transformed ourselves in record time, showing our capacity for leadership”.
He has also indicated that “after Covid19 eco-sustainable production will become obligatory for everyone. Only the companies that have put people and planet before profits and have a purpose will be able to survive.”
Silla also highlights that at Jeanologia they are experts in producing ozone, “for more than 15 years we have been applying it in the textile industry to make the industry more sustainable”. That’s why with the current situation, where sanitization is primary in combatting the virus, “we have challenged ourselves to transform our G2 technology within the timeframe of only one week.”
For the sanitization process, we take the face protection masks to be disinfected and put them into a hermetically sealed chamber – Sanitizingbox – subjecting them to a determined quantity of ozone. Through advanced oxidation, bacteria is eliminated and the material is disinfected.
Ozone is the strongest antimicrobial disinfectant and strongest oxidant in nature. Once it has been used, it is treated and returned clean to the atmosphere having been converted into oxygen.
The G2 technology transformed into the Sanitizingbox, becomes the key link for sanitization and is capable of disinfecting 15,000 masks a day. The disinfection protocol is certified by the Valencian government’s health authorities and complies with international health and safety specifications.
The founder at Jeanologia has forwarded that “we are going to continue working in this direction with our R+D team because the sanitization of apparel and workwear is demanded by brands and consumers. Only through sanitizing will be able to speed up regaining consumers’ trust, guaranteeing the fast recovery of our industry.”
Since 16 March, many leather companies (from both the industrial and distribution sectors) are at a standstill because of the health measures in place in France. The upstream players in the industry*, and notably the leather and raw hide dealers represented by the Syndicat Général des Cuirs et Peaux, are still very active in the field and are continuing to collect hides. In direct contact with abattoirs, their commitment is essential for ensuring a constant food supply for the French people.
Because of the measures put in place to protect employees, the other industrial sectors of the leather industry are having to rethink their organisation in order to restart their activities. In particular, these companies must implement social distancing procedures, supply enough protective personal equipment such as masks and gloves, as well as hand sanitizer, and obtain the unanimous agreement of unions. These negotiations are underway.
At the time of writing, France has allocated all supplies of FFP2 masks (the most protective ones) to health professionals. Masks for companies are currently being manufactured and demand remains very high.
In these times of shortages, and in order to support companies in their efforts to provide PPE, the Conseil National du Cuir has decided to take charge of the supply of masks and hand sanitizer for the entire French Leather Industry. It has placed a first order for 200,000 masks (washable 10 times at 60°C) and 7,000 litres of hand sanitizer. A budget of 1.4 million euros has been approved to allow industrial companies to resume their activities and for retailers to be equipped when the crisis is over. If the needs of the industry require it, the CNC’s order can rise to 500,000 masks and double the quantity of hand sanitizer.
The Conseil National du Cuir is using two French suppliers, members of the leather sector: CHAMATEX (a textiles company) and ATC Tannery Chemicals (a chemical products company). The first orders are scheduled to be delivered at the end of April. As the finished goods distribution industry (footwear, leather goods, gloves) is at a complete standstill by government decision, industrial companies will be the first to benefit. The next step will be for each company to decide on a plan for resuming their activity and acquiring the necessary equipment.
Debenhams is preparing to call in administrators after the struggling department store was forced to close all its outlets under the coronavirus lockdown.
Debenhams was taken over last year by a group of its financial backers, including the US hedge funds Silver Point and GoldenTree, after falling into administration.
With 142 stores closed and the majority of the 22,000 staff on furlough, the current owners want to push the business into administration then buy it back debt-free.
Debenhams said: “This move will protect Debenhams from the threat of legal action that could have the effect of pushing the business into liquidation while its 142 UK stores remain closed in line with the Government’s current advice regarding the Covid-19 pandemic.”
Levi’s has launched a new program on its Instagram Live platform to support artists and musicians while encouraging watchers to stay at home. The program, titled 5:01 Live, is hosted on the channel every weekday at 5:01 PST.
On their recent post the brand said “Our Levi’s Family, it’s in times like these that many of us turn to music to feel a sense of community. Tune in tomorrow, March 23rd, for our first 5:01 Live. Levi’s is proud to bring you live performances from some of your favorite artists as we encourage you to stay home and stay connected. We’ll be live every weekday at 5:01pm PST. We are unified by music and all in this together.”
The board of directors of Pitti Immagine has decided yesterday to move the dates of their shows: “Considering the evolution of the health emergency in Italy and around the world and in the light of the concrete prospects of an extension to the restrictive measures concerning production and commercial activities and the movement of people, the Board of Directors discussed and deliberated the proposals presented by the CEO Raffaello Napoleone who, together with the heads of the various company departments, had carried out a broad survey of the opinions received from exhibitors, buyers, agents and other members of the trade over the past few weeks:
_ Pitti Immagine Uomo no. 98 is confirmed and will move to 2 to 4 September (3 days), once again at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence;
_ Pitti Immagine Bimbo no. 91 is confirmed and will move to 9-10 September (2 days), at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence;
_ Pitti Immagine Filati no. 87 is confirmed and its exact position on the calendar will be discussed at the fair’s next Technical Committee, scheduled for April, 8th;
_ Fragranze no. 18 is confirmed with the original dates, 11-13 September, at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence;
_ Super n. 16 is confirmed with the original dates, 24-27 September, at the Padiglione Visconti in Milan;
_ Taste no. 15, which was rescheduled for the beginning of June, is canceled and postponed until the next ordinary dates for 2021 (13-15 March).”
“With regard to our three fashion fairs” says Raffaello Napoleone, Ceo of Pitti Immagine “it is clear that they will be exceptional editions where our primary duties will be to guarantee the complete maintenance of hygiene of the exhibition space and prepare an organization of the spaces and layouts that takes into account people’s safety. An experimental layout which could also turn out to be useful on next occasions. This will also apply to Fragranze at the Stazione Leopolda which we believe, in this phase, could represent an indispensable point of reference for the entire artistic and experimental perfumery world”.
Napoleone also added that Pitti Connect, will be a new and advanced version of previous digital platform and will aim to network the buyer to brands through high-quality editorial contributions. This should not be seen as a complementary tool of the shows but as an integration into the physical fair. Pitti will be presenting this project to exhibitors and test it in the next few weeks and after that gradually introduce it.
This of course will set a shift in the trade show calendar for this SS21 season. However, it remains to be seen if Pitti will revert back to old dates for 2021 or whether the Covid-19 crisis will mark a shift in the overall trade show calendar.
The board of directors of the Fédération de la haute couture et de la Mode have cancelled Paris Men’s Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week with coronavirus which continues to halt international travel and plague France. Just today, the country’s prime minister warned of an extremely high surge in coronavirus cases.
Paris Men’s was originally scheduled to take place from June 23 to June 28, and Haute Couture was originally scheduled for July 5 to July 9. Designers are currently looking for alternative ways to showcase their collections.
A press release “In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, strong decisions are required to ensure the safety and health of Houses, their employees and everyone working in our industry. Consequently, the Board of Directors of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has come to the decision that, in the present conditions, the Paris Fashion Week® Menswear, scheduled from June 23rd to June 28th, 2020, and the Haute Couture Week scheduled from July 5 to July 9, 2020, cannot take place”
Chanel joined the likes of Gucci in stopping production for the short-term amongst the global coronavirus outbreak. The company is closing factories in France, Switzerland, and Italy for the next two weeks.
“Chanel took the decision, in accordance with the latest government instructions, to close the entirety of its production sites in France, Italy and Switzerland [watchmaking] as well as its haute couture, ready-to-wear, métiers d’art and jewelry,” the company said in a statement.
Due to the increasing spread of the coronavirus and on the basis of the recommendation of the Bavarian State Government and the responsible health authorities, Messe München has cancelled OutDoor by ISPO 2020. This step was carried out in consultation with the industry association EOG (European Outdoor Group) and is responsible for the health of exhibitors and visitors. The next OutDoor by ISPO will take place in summer 2021.
Mark Held, President of the EOG: “The corona pandemic presents the outdoor industry with previously unknown challenges. We have decided that a cancellation of OutDoor by ISPO 2020 frees up valuable resources in the companies that they can use to support employees, retailers and other stakeholders along the supply chain. The more we do now to protect everyone involved, the better off we will be after this crisis. Once the crisis has been overcome, OutDoor by ISPO 2021 will provide an important platform for the entire industry and set standards for the economic comeback. ”
Our brand-new issue 62 of WeAr Magazine is now out! Featuring Trends, Brands, Designers, Lookbook, Retail Tips, Bestseller & Denim Specials, Fiber Report & more…
WeAr’s editorial team has attended the all-important shows this season and filtered out the best-of-the-best for you, in case you have been unable to travel.
Use our Lookbook to get seasonal inspiration. Look up these fantastic brands and dare to order directly from them. If your customers can buy online, so can you! Need an extra confidence boost?
We have compiled another one of our Bestseller Specials where we interviewed showrooms and retailers worldwide about what is hot and where things are going. Take this as a guide to your buying choices.
Our Denim Special will help you navigate through the tough times. We have asked the movers and shakers of the industry to give us their ideas on storytelling through, and around, denim – they know a thing or two about surviving turbulence.
And for the rest of your needs, check out our reports, where we always aim to write about things that can improve your business.
Get the latest issue of WeAr Magazine | https://www.wearglobalnetwork.com/bookstore/
In lieu of the Coronavirus COVID-19 situation, DFO will be organizing a fully integrated online and offline showroom for its AW20 season.
For buyers who will not visit Shanghai, DFO will help them place orders via our online showroom. DFO will help brands create attractive video and image content and create dynamic brand experience digitally. In addition, China’s 5G technology will make DFO’s online experience enjoyable and convenient for buyers.
Via DFO’s own social media platforms and reaching out directly to China’s buyer pool, DFO will continue to create dedicated promotion for brands.
“The fashion industry in China will only be strong again if all of its participants support each other. With a fully integrated strategy spanning over one-month, we believe we will be able to help strengthen the fashion market in China, as well as our brands and retailers, through this challenging season.” – DFO
Eastman, the maker of sustainably sourced Naia cellulosic filament yarn, earlier in the year announced the expansion of its Naia fiber portfolio at Première Vision-Paris (PV), the international fashion and textile exposition. With the introduction of its new cellulosic staple fiber, Naia offers another versatile eco-conscious material choice for sustainable fashion.
“We are thrilled to expand our product offerings, and we have been working with a strong network of innovative spinner partners around the world to introduce our new NaiaTM cellulosic staple fiber,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “Working with our value chain partners, we’re facilitating quick and easy access to NaiaTM fibers for our mills, and ultimately brands, regardless of their location.”
Naia staple fiber has inherent softness, is quick drying and reduces pilling. It blends well with other eco-friendly materials, such as lyocell, modal and recycled polyester—to produce sustainable fabrics and garments that are ideal for everyday wear.
Eastman will be working with several best-in-class spinners worldwide to create Naia staple fiber, including Karacasu Tekstil in Turkey, Shandong Long Run Textile and Dezhou Huayuan Eco-Technology on Mainland China, Pratibha Syntex and RSWM Ltd. in India and Linz Textil in Austria. These industry-leading spinners blend NaiaTM staple fiber with other sustainable fibers to meet the needs of manufacturers across the globe.
Strenesse frees up resources to support regional companies in times of Corona. At the headquarters in Nördlingen, mouth and nose protection made from breathable cotton is produced in the Strenesse-own sewing shop with high-pressure aids. In particular, employees in the food retail sector who guarantee basic care but are not taken into account in the state supply chain should benefit from this.
The makeshift mouth and nose protection can also be found via the online store www.strenesse.com. The reusable protective masks are made of 100% skin-friendly cotton, which is washable up to 90 degrees,
“In these difficult times we have to stick together and we are happy to have found a way to support our fellow human beings. My special thanks go to our employees on site who made this project possible with such commitment. ”Said Micaela Sabatier, Managing Director of the Nördlinger fashion company.
In a statement Kingpins mentioned “We’ve tried to round up a few bright spots alongside the news that is hard to hear but worth noting.
Also, with all the information and talking heads, we know it is hard to discern what we should be doing (or not doing) and what guidance we should be following. We’ve collected a few links from the experts – the World Health Organization, namely – to help you find unbiased and fact-based information.
Finally, the Kingpins team is working on two big projects right now that will help keep us all connected and informed. The first is our new website – which will launch on March 30.”
With this they also mentioned the live-date for their new digital event “We’re going online. Kingpins24 – our new online event – will bring the denim industry together when we are apart. EVERYONE can join”
Focusing on “remote” visitors, the Fondazione Prada’s and its social media channels have been turned into a laboratory of ideas, a platform in which to test new formats and codes that will be able to develop in a further way in the future, beyond the current state of emergency.
The foundation has opened its archive where via a list of key words users can explore its “Glossary” section. By publishing archive images and videos, unpublished texts, excerpts from catalogues and reviews from the press, thematic paths and ideal dialogues between various activities will be established, Fondazione Prada said in a statement.
“In compliance with all the decrees published to date, we have promptly implemented all the measures necessary for guaranteeing the safety of the people who work at Pitti Immagine, both with and for us. We have also got ourselves organized in order to continue to be operational, using all the instruments, tools and networks available for working from home, in constant contact with each other, sector to sector… and with all of you.
What we want to tell you loud and clear is that we are all working hard to open next June’s fairs on the dates announced. We have never stopped. Put simply, it is our duty: no more or less than our duty towards you.
We are fully aware that this fair season will not be like all the others, it will be an exceptional season, combating the fear and the emergency. Not in order to remove them but rather with the aim of facing them and realistically laying down the foundations for a relaunch that is as rapid as possible. For this reason, we have decided to invest.
We are, in fact, working on a dual track basis, physical and digital, with innovative and complementary services to boost the efficiency of the relationships between companies and buyers. The physical fair, rich in content and with even more new features, will be flanked by the e-PITTI Connect digital platform, which, beyond the current emergency, constitutes a patrimony that we have been developing for quite a long time and with which we will be launching a brand new and advanced version in June in order to offer new functionality, more contents and also remote interaction modes. With your contribution: we are a system and we work as a system, that is an undeniable treasure.
We want to continue to be a stable and safe point of reference, without concealing the difficulties and monitoring the evolution of the situation in Italy and around the world day by day, hour by hour.
We will continue to keep in contact, to stay up to date, to be flexible and fast, to adopt the most opportune measures reliably and with the necessary courage. New scenarios will open up that will not always be predictable, we will work harder but, above all, better, drawing on both our as well as your creative skills. We are certainly not alone and will never be so because over all these years, even before creating a successful commercial event, we have built a true community with you.
In this regard, we should add one last thing.
As citizens, parents, children and members of wider communities, we would like to express our feelings of gratitude, affection and solidarity to the thousands of doctors, nurses and volunteers working in healthcare structures who have committed themselves to continuously taking care of us in the best possible way. If there are any heroes at this time, it is them.”
For S/S 2020 Stone Island presents: Big Loom Camo. The camouflage pattern is created on ‘Big Looms’: looms capable of creating complex and oversized jacquard designs. The design comes to life through the double dye bath garment dyeing procedure, which colours all the textile components with different yields.
Jackets and accessories are made of a cotton, nylon and viscose fabric, with a slight external resin finish.
CHANEL has launched its commitment to tackle climate change with CHANEL Mission 1.5°, in line with the ambitious targets of the 2015 Paris Climate Agreement, aimed at limiting mean global temperature increases to 1.5° Celsius.
CHANEL Mission 1.5° will see the company reduce its carbon footprint and that of its supply chain, while also taking action outside of its own business activities to help accelerate the transition to a lower carbon world.
To this end, CHANEL has made four commitments for the decade ahead, joining leading companies in the world that are taking ambitious measures to tackle climate change.
Reducing CHANEL’s carbon footprint across its own operations and its entire supply chain to meet Science-Based Targets
• Reduce emissions across CHANEL operations by 50% by 2030, equivalent to a 66% reduction per unit sold, and reduce supply chain emissions by 40% per unit sold by 2030, compared to 2018. To meet these reductions, CHANEL will further strengthen its long-standing approach to the responsible sourcing and production of natural raw materials, while also continuously revisiting the way it designs, manufactures, transports and distributes its products. This journey will require close partnerships with CHANEL’s suppliers.
Shifting to 100% renewable electricity on a worldwide basis by 2025
• CHANEL pledges to transition to 100% renewable electricity for its owned operations by 2025 and has joined the RE100 coalition, a group of influential businesses committed to the use of renewable electricity. Globally, as of 2019, CHANEL already sourced 41% of its electricity from renewable sources and expects this to increase to 97% by 2021.
Balancing residual carbon emissions
• Balance: while CHANEL is focused on decarbonising its operations and value chain, the company is also committed to taking action outside of its own business activities in order to balance its residual carbon emissions. The company is doing this by investing in nature-based solutions, such as projects to protect and restore forests, mangroves and peatlands. CHANEL only supports projects which follow the International Carbon Reduction and Offset Alliance (ICROA) principles, and those that are certified to the highest carbon, biodiversity and community standards (such as VCS and CCBA). Such initiatives already serve to avoid and remove carbon emissions at least equal to the company’s entire carbon footprint, with the company reaching carbon neutrality in 2019.
Financing climate change adaptation
• Adapt: finance projects that enable vulnerable communities to adapt to the impacts of climate change with the objective of reducing smallholder farmers’ and entrepreneurs’ vulnerability while also building resilient raw material supply chains, both outside and within our value chain. As an example, CHANEL supports initiatives such as the Landscape Resilience Fund, one of the winners of the Global Environmental Facility (GEF) Challenge programme for adaptation innovation.
To implement these broad commitments in its own supply chain, CHANEL is also investing in new technologies and start-ups, particularly in the field of raw materials and packaging, as well as in scientific climate-research.
Andrea d’Avack, Chief Sustainability Officer at CHANEL, said:
“The climate crisis represents the biggest issue of our age and demands urgent action to reduce negative environmental impacts and drive broader change. It is our conviction that businesses have a clear role to play, alongside governments and civil society, to help protect the world’s most vulnerable communities and ecosystems from the consequences of climate change. With today’s announcement, CHANEL has made a clearcommitment to accelerate the move to a lower carbon economy. CHANEL Mission 1.5° is embedded in our long- term vision, and reflects our ambitions to play our part in facing humanity’s biggest challenge and enroll the future of our company in a more sustainable world.”
Due to the restrictions imposed by the Italian government’s 9 March 2020 for the Covid-19 virus,which restrict the mobility of Italian citizens, and acknowledging the restrictive measures imposed by local authorities, the trade fairs planned for Kiev (La Moda Italiana) and Munich (Moda Made in Italy) will be postponed to a date to be determined.
“We have been carefully monitoring the situation every day,” comments Assocalzaturifici Chair Siro Badon, “but in view of the travel restrictions imposed on our participants and exhibitors and global concern about the health and safety of our community, we are forced to announce, with great regret, that we will not be able to go ahead with the two trade fairs in Ukraine and Germany. Our decision, which we have discussed at length with all the partners involved, is dictated by a deep sense of responsibility to the community, first of all, and to the footwear industry involved in the trade fair events, in particular. The gravity of the situation requires us to act boldly, right now. We are all going through a very difficult time, and we must act together to limit the possibility of contagion. We are profoundly disappointed at having to make this difficult decision, and it is our intention to discuss with our trade fair partners the possibility of rescheduling the events at a date to be determined as soon as the global health emergency allows us to resume operations as normal”.
The two events are held in countries of great importance for Italy’s footwear industry. According to the latest figures, Ukraine is Italy’s second largest export market in the former CIS nations, with 561,787 pairs of shoes (-3.8 in the past year) worth a total of 37.87 million euro (-10.1% in the past year) at an average price of 67.40 euro a pair. Germany is the third-largest destination in the world for Italian shoes, importing 27,237,000 pairs of shoes (-9.3%) worth a total of 863.18 million euro (-2.7%) at an average price of 31.69 euro a pair.
Twenty years after founding Yoox as an off-price e-tailer, and five years after a merger with Net-a-Porter, Federico Marchetti will be stepping down as Yoox Net-a-Porter’s CEO. He will however, will remain as chairman of the company, which in 2018 was acquired by Richemont in a €2.8 billion deal.
In 2000, Marchetti founded YOOX, the world’s first lifestyle e-commerce destination, long before the launch of Facebook, Instagram and the iPhone. YOOX was listed on the Milan Stock Exchange in 2009, the first IPO in Italy for 18 months; today, it remains Italy’s sole “unicorn”. In 2015, Marchetti drove the game-changing merger of YOOX and NET-A-PORTER to create YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP, the world leader in online luxury fashion.
Under his leadership, YOOX NET-A-PORTER has signed important partnerships worldwide. In China, a joint venture between Richemont, YOOX NET-A-PORTER and Alibaba announced in 2018 puts the Group in pole position in the world’s biggest luxury market. In the Middle East, YOOX NET-A-PORTER has partnered with Mohamed Alabbar, the most visionary entrepreneur in the Gulf, since 2016.
The Kingpins Amsterdam denim supply chain trade show will not host its April 2020 edition due to the health concerns and travel restrictions linked to the coronavirus, COVID-19.
“We have been monitoring this situation very closely and had been hoping to have the show go on, but in light of the travel restrictions our attendees and exhibitors are experiencing and the overarching concern for the health and safety of our community, we have no choice but to cancel Kingpins Amsterdam,” said Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show.
Kingpins Amsterdam is the second show Kingpins organizers have canceled due to health and travel concerns related to COVID-19. In February, organizers announced the cancelation of the Kingpins Hong Kong show, originally slated for May 13/14.
“We are following the Center for Disease Control’s recommendations for limiting the spread of COVID-19. The CDC is recommending people avoid all nonessential travel, including to several countries that have reported high levels of infection,” Olah said. “This includes countries where many of our friends, exhibitors and attendees are based. We encourage everyone to practice common sense and get their information from trusted sources.”
While the health and safety of the denim supply chain is forcing the closure of key Kingpins events, organizers say they are searching for solutions to help the denim industry stay in touch with customers and suppliers.
“We cannot stop the world over this virus,” Olah said. “A total economic shutdown is not a realistic option for any of us although the earth is benefitting from less activity.”
Kingpins Amsterdam exhibitors and attendees will be contacted with further information regarding booth contracts and registrations.
Givenchy has named Renaud de Lesquen as their new CEO. Currently, de Lesquen is president and CEO of Dior Americas, and will step into his new role on April 1st, 2020.
MOSCOT, New York City brand and renowned eyewear institution opened in 2019 its second standalone shop in Italy. The new location, which opened on December 12th, 2019, occupies a 65 square meter space at 22 Via Ponte Vetero, Milan, Italy. MOSCOT Milan combines MOSCOT’s signature style with the local flare of Brera. The newest Shop embodies the MOSCOT spirit—classic, historic, and metropolitan—all while situated in the global capital of fashion and design. The MOSCOT Milan Shop showcases the full breadth of the MOSCOT eyewear collection with familiar touches that are distinctly MOSCOT, including tchotchkes, vintage furniture and artifacts from the family archives, tin ceilings made in New York that are quintessential to historical Lower Manhattan architecture, and the overall nostalgic feeling of having stepped into Great Grandma Sylvia Moscot’s living room, whose iconic photo is now donned on a reusable canvas tote bag that comes with each MOSCOT frame purchase.
To celebrate the opening of the Milan Shop, MOSCOT also released a Milan exclusive style, in the iconic LEMTOSH optical and sunglass frame in a first-ever Matte/Shiny Crystal colorway. The collectible frame has “MILAN” engraved on the left temple tip and is numbered in a limited run of 100 frames. The exclusive LEMTOSH is available for purchase only at the new Milan Shop for a limited time.
Berwich opened its first Flagship Store in Milan in 2019, on 23 October. The company chose the city of Milan for its first single-brand store, the privileged stage of the most important events internationally associated with the world of fashion. Via Manzoni 42 is the home of Berwich’s Flagship, right in the heart of the fashion district, which has always been a place where new styles and trends coexist alongside historical brands, giving life to the most renowned “made in Italy” in the world.
“Be Green Be Berwich”, is the concept that reflects the “sustainable” soul of the Italian brand. The interior design comes from a careful choice and awareness of details, which tell the value of the brand, such as research, roots, travel and especially attention to sustainability. For this reason the lighting of the store – as well as the air conditioning – are low consumption. The paints used are obtained by virtuous production cycles that lower its environmental impact and the furniture wood is recycled, reinventing its shapes and colors.
In the new flagship store, the customer can choose from numerous models from the Berwich and Madame Berwich collections and its purchases will be identified through innovative softwares. An “identity card” of the trousers to which the store will be able to log in to keep a history of the orders of each of its customers and then reschedule them fully digitized a new purchase.
Starting from 2020, with a view to retail expansion, the project will be replicated in other countries, in particular in the Middle-East.
Eastman, the maker of sustainably sourced Naia cellulosic filament yarn, has announced the expansion of its Naia fiber portfolio at Première Vision-Paris, the international fashion and textile exposition. With the introduction of its new cellulosic staple fiber, Naia offers another versatile eco-conscious material choice for sustainable fashion.
“We are thrilled to expand our product offerings, and we have been working with a strong network of innovative spinner partners around the world to introduce our new Naia™ cellulosic staple fiber,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “Working with our value chain partners, we’re facilitating quick and easy access to Naia™ fibers for our mills, and ultimately brands, regardless of their location.”
Naia staple fiber has inherent softness, is quick drying and reduces pilling. It blends well with other eco-friendly materials, such as lyocell, modal and recycled polyester—to produce sustainable fabrics and garments that are ideal for everyday wear.
Eastman will be working with several best-in-class spinners worldwide to create Naia staple fiber, including Karacasu Tekstil in Turkey, Shandong Long Run Textile and Dezhou Huayuan Eco-Technology on Mainland China, Pratibha Syntex and RSWM Ltd. in India and Linz Textil in Austria. These industry-leading spinners blend Naia staple fiber with other sustainable fibers to meet the needs of manufacturers across the globe.
French fashion house Jean-Paul Gaultier has announced a new strategy where it would name a new designer for each of its seasonal Haute Couture collections after its founding designer said farewell to catwalks in January.
In an Instagram post Gaultier wrote: “I have the pleasure to announce the new concept for my Haute Couture. Each season, I will invite a designer to interpret the codes of the House and I am doubly pleased that Chitose Abe of Sacai Official will be the first one!“
The company announced that its three textile fairs in Shanghai will be postponed from March to a later date due to the Novel Coronavirus outbreak. This includes Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring and Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles“ Spring Edition which were due to be held in Shanghai from 11 – 13 March at the National Exhibition and Convention Center.
Messe Frankfurt has been an active player in the China market for over 30 years now, so we stand fully behind the government’s efforts to control the outbreak. Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd outlined. This includes the recent suspension of large-scale trade and economic events in a number of cities, so with this and the wellbeing of all our stakeholders in mind, we have made the decision to reschedule our upcoming textile fairs in Shanghai to a later date. Our teams are making every effort to find suitable alternatives, but we will only make the decision to go ahead with these fairs when it is deemed safe to do so.
British designer Henry Holland has announced that he will be stepping back from his House of Holland fashion brand he founded in 2006, after asking management consultancy firm KPMG to see new investors.
Commenting on his decision to leave the brand, Holland said in a statement: “After the most incredible ride, my journey at the helm of House of Holland has come to an end. When I first started this brand, no one could have predicted the success that we would achieve and the fun we would have.”
Tommy Hilfiger footwear is exploring more sustainable solutions through apple skin fibre, a bio-based leather alternative derived from the apple farming industry waste.
The sneakers feature a sturdy and thick leather alternative resulting from recycled apple skin fibre, which as a lower environmental impact than other vegan leather alternatives.
Available in white and navy, the speckled shoe styles for both men and women feature recycled apple fibres.
Lenzing, famous for its TENCEL fiber, dressed the stars at the Oscars this year in TENCEL Luxe. The company has a rich history of positioning its products over and above the direct B2B contact and in a way that the end-consumer can relate to it. Initiated already in 2019, Lenzing went into a partnership with Red Carpet Green Dress, founded by Suzy Amis Cameron, wife of producer James Cameron.
Subsequently Oscar winner for ‘Best Documentary Short Subject’, Elena Adreicheva, wore a dress created out of TENCEL Luxe.
Also luxury house Louis Vuitton, designed an evening gown for James Bond lead actress Lea Seydoux out of the luxury TENCEL material. And Golden Globe nominee Kaitlyn Dever arrived at the Oscars in a custom-made ethical Louis Vuitton as a partner of Red Green Carpet, wearing a dress in collaboration with TENCEL Luxe.
This highly successful cooperation received significant praise thorughout media and Lenzing, once again, managed to gain global attention with a truly special project.
Apart from this innovation, Lenzing Group announced the introduction of Eco Pure technology, at the recent Premiere Vision in Paris. This enhances the production of environmentally responsible modal fibers for the textile industry. TENCEL Modal fibers with Eco Pure technology are considered as the most environmentally responsible option among existing modal fibers in the industry. Total chlorine-free bleaching in pulp and fiber delivers the industry’s new standard of clean modal fiber production. With the gentle bleaching process, textiles made predominantly of such fibers tend to be softer than conventionally bleached TENCEL Modal fibers, and are very suitable for undergarments, loungewear, bedding and more. The Eco Pure technology features an eco-responsible production process guided by the EU Ecolabel, a label of environmental excellence that is awarded to products and services that meet high environmental standards throughout their life-cycle.
Over the few past years, brands have made conscious decisions to better understand their supply chain with a core focus on sustainability and transparency in clothing production. In light of this, the TENCEL Modal fibers with Eco Pure technology are identifiable through a special identification technology, making the eco-fibers identifiable throughout all stages of the textile manufacturing process.
“The ongoing innovation in cellulosic fiber technologies and eco-responsible production processes has witnessed more sustainable fiber alternatives across the textile value chain. This has provided businesses and brands with new opportunities and perspectives to enhance product quality and improve sustainable practices. The introduction of Eco Pure technology for TENCEL Modal fibers is providing brands and consumers with great comfort and more responsible environmental options. With sustainability in our DNA, we will continue to review customers’ feedback to develop and produce high-quality fibers that suits their needs and preferences.” said Florian Heubrandner, Vice President of Global Business Management Textiles of Lenzing.
Milan Design Week has announced the postponement of its event in April to June 2020 taking place from 16th till 21st of June 2020. The change of date for the event is aimed to support the manufacturers who will be able to present their finalised work to an international public and hopefully welcome more visitors. The 2019 edition had hosted 2,200 exhibitors, recalled 386,000 visitors from 184 countries – of whose 30,000 were from China.
The newly designated dates will overlap with some key events related to fashion including Pitti Uomo and Milano Moda Uomo (Milan Menswear Shows).
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