The Metropolitan Museum of Art will host “About Time: Fashion and Duration” for its annual spring Costume Institute exhibition. Taking place from May 7, 2020 until September 7, 2020, the show will also aid in the museum’s ongoing celebration of its 150th anniversary, as it illustrates 150 years of fashion history.

The Costume Institute’s spring 2020 exhibition will trace more than a century and a half of fashion—from 1870 to the present—along a disruptive timeline, as part of The Met’s 150th anniversary celebration. Employing Henri Bergson’s concept of la durée (duration), it will explore how clothes generate temporal associations that conflate past, present, and future. Virginia Woolf will serve as the “ghost narrator” of the exhibition.

A linear chronology of fashion comprised of black ensembles will run through the exhibition reflecting the progressive timescale of modernity, and bringing into focus the fast, fleeting rhythm of fashion. Interrupting this timeline will be a series of counter-chronologies composed of white ensembles that predate or postdate those in black, but relate to one another through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration. For example, a black princess-line dress from the late 1870s will be paired with an Alexander McQueen “Bumster” skirt from 1995, and a black bustle ensemble from the mid-1880s will be juxtaposed with a Comme des Garçons “Body Meets Dress—Dress Meets Body” dress from 1997.

The exhibition will conclude with a section on the future of fashion, linking the concept of duration to debates about longevity and sustainability.

MICAM, the footwear industry’s key international trade event, reaffirms its role as a fashion forecaster thanks to research carried out by WGSN on the trends expected to dominate next year’s autumn-winter season. 

1. Considered comfort, inspired by soft, comfortable materials for an indoor-outdoor look that pushes dress-code boundaries; 2. Tech-tility, which focuses on the relationship between actual and virtual reality and uses tech materials and innovation to create futuristic accessories; 3. Reconstructed Legacy, which looks to the past to find new solutions for the future, with a strong focus on sustainability. 

1. Considered comfort

Women/kids
Considered Comfort explores the new relationship between fashion and the home: multi-purpose accessories are becoming more and more popular (just think about slippers, which are now considered ‘cool’ enough to wear outside), and comfort is paramount. We will be seeing a lot of soft, natural and tactile materials, and shapes that cocoon and cuddle. The concept of hybrid footwear will be explored, such as blending slipper shapes with something more premium, inspired by ballerina shoes. 

Men/kids
Considered Comfort reflects a shift in customer expectations, with consumers becoming increasingly focused on their choice of clothing. Whether at home, at work or for an evening out, the important thing is to be comfortable and well-dressed. With the suit becoming more casual and streetwear more stylish, the result is a redefined concept of “informal elegance”. Active and athleisure trends continue to influence footwear: the by now ubiquitous hybrid shoes are updated with futuristic trims and pop-colour accents. Meanwhile, more traditional colours combined with modern styles create a look that has broad appeal and suits everyone. 

2. Tech-tility 

Women/kids
The dividing lines between real and virtual, authentic and false, truth and fantasy are becoming increasingly blurred. Tech-tility explores the way the clothing industry approaches this issue. The more time we spend in front of the screen, the harder it is to distinguish between what is real and what is digital, and more importantly, we are not interested in understanding the difference. 

The colours will be those of the digital world, chosen as much as for how they appear on the screen as how they look in real life; innovation and high-tech materials will be at the centre of attention with ‘smart’ fabrics that respond to movement and regulate body temperature. 

This evolution will give our clothes a more fantastical look; just think of sportswear’s futuristic or gender-neutral styles, structured activewear that re-shapes the body or the conceptual outerwear and sneakers that wouldn’t look out of place on the moon. 

Men/kids
In this new scenario, the everyday will become more extreme and tech more tactile: it’s time to rethink design conventions. Men’s fashions have always included a mix of different designs, and with its blend of real and virtual the Tech-tility trend stretches such concepts even further and becomes crucial for this market. While younger customers are now discovering tailoring, innovations in textiles and techniques will make even the most formal office attire easier and more comfortable to wear. The trend explores designs, materials and colours that stand out on video screens. Print stories are inspired by glitches and digital debris while iridescent dichroic details create ephemeral and otherworldly effects. Shoes with sporty trims explode with fluorescent colours, as a constant reminder of the trend’s “active” origins. 

3. Reconstructed Legacy 

Women/Kids
In periods of instability, the past takes on an irresistible allure. Reconstructed Legacy explores how clothing will reinterpret the past in the light of the future, but in a more sustainable way.
We can expect classic, preppy styles to be energised by a more edgy, even punky, streetwear look, with materials and details taken from the past and reinterpreted with tech fabrics and more modern shapes. 

Underpinning these new designs will be an intrinsic sense of value and history. The point will be to do better, and not more, because sustainability is becoming an increasingly urgent issue for all of us. 

Men/Kids
With the rise of the digital culture, as far as the fashion industry is concerned the past has always represented a stable point of reference in a continually changing world. But in 2021, even the traditions of the past will be brought up-to-date.
Male consumers love buying products with a history and the Reconstructed legacy trend panders to this preference: classic models reworked to adapt to more modern life-styles that respect nature. Great attention is given to well-designed, familiar and eco-friendly accessories. 

The use of artisanal techniques not only for formal clothing but also luxury streetwear, gives the latter a timeless appeal and, potentially, turns it into a classic that will last forever . 

Italian luxury label Prada is joining forces with sportswear giant adidas on a new collaboration.

At this time no more information is known, however the hashtag #pradaforadidas has already been set in motion.

At the upcoming Winter Pitti fairs taking place at the beginning of 2020, the theme is revolved about flags. Rectangles of cloth, lines, colors, drawings and beautiful geometric patterns: the Pitti Immagine flag flutters in the snap taken by the great photo reporter Franco Pagetti for the campaign dedicated to the winter fairs, under the art direction of Angelo Figus, who curates also the setting at the Fortezza da Basso together with the architect Alessandro Moradei. Constantly moving fabrics, like in the clothing we wear and which, just like clothes, are mobile symbols of identity, belonging, thought, feeling. A flag is never a silent fabric, it always has something to say, it consistently arouses emotions because it speaks according to universal messages. It is expressive, enthusiastic, insolent. It flutters, falls, is lowered, is raised, carried, folded, waved. Flags are also beautiful geometrical compositions; they give pleasure to the people who see them flying. Pitti is like the United Nations of Fashion where every brand has its own flag, but also where each one of us can become our own flag. Go ahead then and “Show Your Flags at Pitti”!

With 140 Moroccan and international exhibitors, an even larger number of production specialists presented themselves at this year’s Maroc in Mode – Maroc Sourcing to over 1,000 trade visitors at the Moulay Hassan racetrack in Marrakech. Visitors from 16 countries, such as Spain, France, Portugal, Italy, UK, Germany, etc., including high- profile companies and vertical top providers, used the show as a platform to expand their production portfolio, intensify existing contacts and finalize production projects. In total, more than 700 came from Morocco, over 300 from European countries (Spain, France, Portugal, Italy, Germany, UK) and further countries like Japan. Visitors were particularly interested in the current topics of fast fashion and sustainability.

The 17th edition of Maroc in Mode – Maroc Sourcing became more international: producers from 6 countries presented their extensive production offer in the fields of fast fashion, denim, knitwear, tailoring and corporate fashion, among them exhibitors from Morocco, China, Pakistan, Portugal flagged with more than 20 companies in the area of Maroc Sourcing, Turkey was represented here by 19 specialists in fabrics, ingredients, accessories and services. The expansion into further markets is to be continued. 

Fast fashion and sustainability are top themes 

In line with visitor interest, the fair focused on sustainable aspects and fast fashion. Increasingly more exhibitors are sustainably certified, i.a. from Oekotex, BSCI, GOTS, ISO, through individual customer audits, etc. Exhibitors and visitors unanimously confirmed that sustainable production is the textile future: “There is a growing demand for sustainable production. We assume that from 2020 almost every company will demand sustainable production. That’s why we’re investing in new machines and changing all our processes from chemical use to laser technology,” said Hind Raki, Commercial Manager of Crossing. 

Against this background, sustainable production is strongly promoted. Investments are made not only in the denim sector with the application of new technologies such as ozone, eFlow, laser but through out the industry. There are plans for projects that will establish a comprehensive ecosystem of circulation in Morocco. 

The comprehensive seminar program on both days of the fair gathered experts from the fashion industry and reflected here also the developments of the market, ia. with a view to the fundamentals of Oekotex certification, the opportunities and challenges of sustainable fashion for the sector, energy efficiency and circular economy in the textile and clothing sector, as well as the different conditions in the European and American fashion markets. 

Another focus was on digitalization and how to further enhance the added value of Moroccan textiles and clothing, e.g. with expert lectures on the change from CMT to FOB and new technologies from Lectra, etc. 

Strategically, the fair is even more international. At the fair, AMITH solemnly signed two partnership agreements with UIT – Union of Industries Textiles and UFIMH – Union Française Mode & Habillement on the first day of the fair. The aim is to further consolidate cooperation between the Moroccan and French textile and clothing industries. Already in 2017, the partnership with the Portuguese association ATP was sealed. While Spain and France are traditionally strong partners, in future the focus will increasingly be on new markets, especially Northern Europe. Scandinavia and Germany are seen as strategic markets in which the activity is to be increased significantly, measures are intensified. 

Zalando, Europe’s leading online platform for fashion and lifestyle, has grown its customer base and deepened customer relationships in the third quarter of 2019. For the first time in its history, the company saw more than one billion site visits in a single quarter (up 37.3% year-over-year), showing that customers gravitate to the platform when they think about fashion. On the way to becoming the starting point for fashion in Europe, the company continued to expand its customer base to 29.5 million (up 17.5% year-over-year). 

Driven by increasing numbers of orders (up 25.4% year-over-year to 34.7 million), Zalando strongly grew its revenues by 26.7% to EUR 1.5 billion and the Gross Merchandise Volume (GMV) by 24.6% to EUR 1.9 billion. The company achieved a positive adjusted EBIT of EUR 6.3 million or a margin of 0.4%. 

David Schröder, CFO Zalando SE, said: “2019 has been a very successful year for us so far. We had a strong third quarter with more active customers who more and more frequently look for inspiration on Zalando. We are growing at a high pace across all regions. We want to maintain the momentum for a strong finish to the year and look forward to celebrating together with our customers the upcoming Cyber Week and the festive season.” 

In the third quarter, Zalando saw strong growth across all regions. In the DACH region, revenues went up 22.9%, whilst business in the Rest of Europe region grew strongly by 30.8%. The positive development was especially pronounced in Spain, the Nordics, as well as the Czech Republic, where the business has grown at a high pace since the launch one year ago. Zalando will continue to further invest in the market and will expand Zalando Lounge to the Czech Republic in the fourth quarter.
In line with its vision to be a sustainable fashion platform with a net-positive impact for people and the planet, from now onwards, Zalando will be carbon neutral in its own operations, deliveries, and returns. Furthermore, the company will provide its customers with an even broader choice of more sustainable styles. Three new brands offering more sustainable products will be added to the assortment, and Zalando’s private-label brand Zign will be fully dedicated to sustainability as of the summer season 2020. 

In the first nine months of 2019, Zalando grew its GMV by 23.5% to EUR 5.7 billion (first nine months of 2018: EUR 4.6 billion) and its revenues by 20.7% to EUR 4.5 billion (first nine months of 2018 EUR 3.7 billion) and achieved an adjusted EBIT of EUR 114.5 million, which corresponds to a margin of 2.5% (first nine months of 2018: EUR 55.5 million or 1.5%).

On the back of the strong results of the first nine months, Zalando is confident about its full-year guidance for 2019 and expects a GMV growth of 20 to 25% and a revenue growth around the low end of this range. It expects the adjusted EBIT to be in the upper half of the range of EUR 175 to 225 million and capital expenditure of around EUR 300 million. 

Zalando’s quarterly statement and the earnings presentation for analysts and investors is available on the Zalando Investor Relations website. Zalando will report results for the fourth quarter and full year of 2019 on 27 February 2020. 

Acne Studios & Mulberry have announced a collaboration between the two houses, marrying Swedish design and English charm in a limited edition capsule collection. The collection will launch on 5th November.

“This is a collaboration about friendship and our freedom as brands to do what we want to do. It is a conversation between Acne Studios and Mulberry, one that is founded in mutual respect and a desire to make great product.” Says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

“The Acne Studios and Mulberry collaboration is a perfect manifestation of the spirit of both our brands. It showcases Acne Studios’ wonderful Swedish design ethos and celebrates both the British heritage and modernity of Mulberry.” says Thierry Andretta, CEO of Mulberry.

The Kering Group said that it delivered another quarter of high growth in consolidated revenue, up 14.2 percent as reported and 11.6 percent on a comparable group structure and exchange rate basis to 3,884.6 million euros (3,202.2 million dollars). 

“We achieved another strong quarter, and all our segments contributed to our solid top-line gain. Our progress, on top of considerable expansion in the past two years, is healthy and well balanced across all Houses. We are consolidating our growth trajectory, and carrying out continuous, targeted operating investments,” said François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Kering in a statement.

-Gucci delivered very healthy growth in the quarter, with revenue up 13.3% as reported and 10.7% on a comparable basis to €2,374.7 million, once again on top of particularly high bases of comparison. All of the main product categories contributed to this growth, demonstrating the enduring success of the House’s collections. Growth in sales from directly operated stores (up 10.7% on a comparable basis) was led by Asia- Pacific (up 17.9% on a comparable basis) and Western Europe (up 11.9% on a comparable basis). Wholesale rose 9.8% on a comparable basis. 

-Yves Saint Laurent pursued its double-digit growth in the quarter, with revenue up 13.3% as reported and 10.8% on a comparable basis to €506.5 million. Growth was balanced across distribution channels, with an 11.4% rise in comparable sales from directly operated stores driven by all of the House’s geographic regions, and an 8.2% increase from wholesale. 

-Bottega Veneta saw highly encouraging growth during the third quarter, with sales up 9.8% as reported and 6.9% on a comparable basis to €284.3 million. Daniel Lee’s collections were extremely well received, by established and new customers alike. Sales from directly operated stores rose 7.5% on a comparable basis, with sharp growth in Western Europe (up 10.1% comparable) and North America (up 17.1% comparable). Wholesale continued to grow, up 4.1% comparable. 

-Sales from Couture and Leather Goods continued to rise sharply, fueled in particular by the strong sales momentum at Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Jewelry delivered solid growth, with a very good quarter at Boucheron and strong performances from Pomellato and DoDo, while Qeelin pursued its successful expansion in Mainland China. Watches posted an encouraging performance, lifted by the launch of new models by Ulysse Nardin. 

With over 350 visitors from all over the world, the 2019 edition of the annual Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim event was a great success. Over the course of one day, the fashion industry gathered in Amsterdam to discuss topics such as transparency and blockchain system, GEN Z as a consumer, climate change, responsible fashion and how these topics can change both the industry and the world.

Designed to be a live platform for thoughts and ideas and a stage for future insights, Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has rapidly become a stronghold of original ideas and a cultural melting pot that does not only have an impact on the fashion industry, but also has other industries looking towards the fashion industry for original ideas and innovations to build a sustainable future for everybody. With its second edition Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has truly become a beacon that shines a light on a possible future, today.

About the event Calik Denim CEO Fatih Dogan says: “Now in its second year, Ever Evolving Talks by Calik Denim has become a platform where we synthesize and present different point of views, experiences and the future over the course of one inspiring and thought provoking day. We touch on many different areas such as the future, our planet, innovation, new technologies and sustainability, with a focus on new generations and consumer behaviour, global trends and collaborations. The event welcomes audiences from both denim and other international sectors. Anyone who is part of – or touches – the world of fashion world can participate. Brands, garment manufacturers, suppliers, the press, academicians and students… Therefore, we believe in the importance of this event. Its values will advance both the sector and the world in which we live.”

Lagos Fashion Week (LagosFW) is a fashion platform that drives the Nigerian and ultimately, the African fashion industry; by bringing together buyers, consumers and the media to view the current collections of designers at a four (4) day event in the fashion capital of Lagos, Nigeria.

As a leading fashion event on the African fashion calendar, LagosFW leads the way with initiatives that supports, strengthens and develops the fashion industry. Beyond the runway, the annual event provides a physical platform that is gradually repositioning fashion as a useful tool for commerce and creativity in Nigeria. The October 2019 edition just closed its doors today after a successful 3 days.

LagosFW Activities:

Runway Shows and Presentations featuring new season collections from designers;

Fashion Focus Africa’s talent discovery initiative that creates access to Fashion Focus Fund, knowledge transfer, information exchange, networking opportunities and access to market;

Fashion Business Series to facilitate conversations with key players from the Nigerian and Pan African industries and beyond, as a useful tool for exchanging ideas, networking and developing the fashion industry.

Green Access Talent discovery with a vision to encourage designers to create social, economic and environmentally sustainable fashion brands

Visual Makers Fellowship created to empower budding filmmakers and photographers with workshops and masterclasses

LagosFW Showrooms Access to shop some of your favorite fashion brands.

After parties: an opportunity to experience Lagos night life and connect with some of Africa’s finest creatives in a relaxed environment.

Danish fashion brand Son of a Tailor has just launched a pullover that is 100 percent 3D-printed. The initiative is an attempt to stop one of fashion’s biggest climate issues: Waste. 

The fashion industry accounts for more CO2 emissions than the airline and shipping industry combined. Waste is a major part of that as more than 1/5 of the material used for making clothes is traditionally thrown out during production. When printing clothing, however, you only need to fill the 3D-printer with the material that will be used for the actual piece of clothing – and not an ounce more. In other words, no material is wasted whatsoever. 

“Fashion is one of the world’s biggest climate sinners, but as an industry, we keep looking the other way. Most brands think a couple of eco-collections is enough to make them climate positive. It’s embarrassing and irresponsible. By removing waste from the production process, we are proving that it is indeed possible to change fashion’s bad habits. We hope we can inspire other brands to do the same,” says Jess Fleischer, CEO and founder of Son of a Tailor. 

Reached Kickstarter goal in 39 minutes 

The 3D-printed pullover, which is made of merino wool, was launched October 21 through a campaign at popular crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. In just 39 minutes, Son of a Tailor reached their goal of 15,000 USD, making the campaign one of the most successful active campaigns on Kickstarter in all of Europe. 

Swedish professor Jonas Larsson from The Swedish School of Textiles, who has supported Son of a Tailor’s project, is not surprised by the success. He believes consumers are ready for new, sustainable alternatives in fashion that makes an actual difference. 

“With this product, Son of a Tailor is highlighting the potential of new technological opportunities in apparel manufacturing and supply chain that can significantly reduce waste in the fashion industry, while providing a better product for the end customer,” says Jonas Larsson. 

A life cycle without waste 

Waste in fashion doesn’t just occur during the production process. A lot of clothing is wasted as a result of brands making way more clothing than they can sell. At the same time, we as consumers have a tendency to buy clothes that we only use a couple of times – or in some cases never use at all. 

Therefore, Son of a Tailor tailor-makes all of its clothing through an online algorithm. That means that not a single piece of clothing is set in production before it has been ordered. That way, the five year old company completely avoids over production. And because the clothing is tailor-made, consumers are less likely to throw it away before using it. Now, they combine the tailor-making process with 3D-printing, thus removing waste from the actual production as well. All in all this means that Son of a Tailor has almost removed waste completely from their clothing’s life cycle. 

The prestigious Goethestrasse street, in the hearth of Frankfurt, is where Stone Island has chosen to open the fourth store in Germany, after Munich, Hamburg and Sylt; enhancing in this way its presence in an important and constantly expanding market.

The store -that covers an area of 135mq – hosts the Stone Island and Stone Island Shadow Project collections. The bush-hammered stone selected for the floor is also used on the walls, interspersed with painted metallic mesh counter-walls and paste coloured MDF. Hangers are made of carbon and anodised aluminium bars. The modular shelves in Alucobond anthracite mirror are covered in black felt. The furnishings and details are made of felt and wood, embellished with an unprecedented industrial appearance.

Last week TOMMY HILFIGER celebrated the re-opening of the Hamburg store with an exclusive TOMMY JEANS LIVE in-store concert, presenting the musical history of the brand and the long-term cooperation with strong, up-and-coming artists. So a TOMMY JEANS Singbox was installed for one week for an open casting in the Europa Passage. The casting was won by 7Soulz and who was allowed to perform at the event alongside established musicians.

The two-storey TOMMY HILFIGER store spanning over 860 square meters now includes a People’s Place Deli, named after Tommy Hilfiger’s first clothing store, which he opened in 1969 in his hometown of Elmira, New York. It was a place for people of all backgrounds who came together to share exciting experiences of pop culture in the midst of the fashion and music revolution. People’s Place is today an integral part of Tommy Hilfiger’s vision for the retail industry.

During the 34th national convention of Confindustria Young Entrepreneurs in Capri, the Assocalzaturifici youth group elected Elisa Lanciotti as Chair for the years 2019-2023. Born in 1987, with a degree in economics and commerce, she is in charge of international sales in her family’s business, Calzaturificio Lancio of Montegranaro (FM). 

The new Chair was elected on a strong agenda with a focus on seminars addressing issues such as technological innovation, digital technology in production processes and customer relations, marketing and female entrepreneurs. 

All with an emphasis on greater integration and cohesion among young people in different trade associations and effective involvement of youth in the group’s decision-making processes. 

Elisa Lanciotti will be flanked by four Deputy Chairs: Federico Bellò of Calzaturificio Bellò in Vigonovo (VE); Sara Cuccu of Loriblu in Porto Sant’Elpidio (FM); Anna Fidanza of Condor Trade in Verolanuova (BS) and Umberto Portogallo of Calzaturificio Florence in Aversa (Caserta). 

“Innovation, cohesion and education: these are the three pillars which will guide our programme,” declares Elisa Lanciotti. “We will maintain continuity with the work of outgoing Chair Charlotta Bachini, with an additional emphasis on Industry 4.0”. 

Izmir, Turkey is home to HUGO BOSS’s largest production location. Since 1999, the company has primarily produced high-quality business wear products here. On an area of around 65,000 m2, suits, jackets, shirts and coats are produced, and almost 4,000 workers are employed in Izmir. However, the factory is not only the largest HUGO BOSS production facility, it is also the most high-tech, as the company demonstrates what Industry 4.0 looks like in practice here, with networked machines, extensive data analysis and flexible processes.

Many aspects of factories today are automated and self-optimized. Processes are more intelligent, more dynamic – the smart factory is already a reality. The term ‘smart factory’ describes a simple, basic principle: machines and software are always more capable when they are automated and networked. This allows them to communicate with each other and exchange data, which is then analyzed in order to uncover potential for optimization.

The process of converting the factory in Izmir into a smart factory was set in motion back in 2015. This transformation took place in three important steps:

Digital transformation: Employees, machines and processes are networked with each other. This makes it possible to map them digitally, creating a ‘virtual twin’ of the factory. It sounds like science fiction, but it isn’t. Using more than 1,600 tablets installed throughout the location, production data can be tracked in real time, meaning that production can be managed optimally.

Robotics and automation: New technologies are introduced to support employees. At the same time, a ‘TechnoLab’ also develops semi- and fully automated machines and robots to further optimize processes. Artificial intelligence: Data is collected from all over the factory. Analysis of this data provides information about where there is potential for improvement, or even where risks arise. This enables machines, resources and processes to be managed based on well-founded, digital forecasts.

Distinction for a pioneering role: It has not gone unnoticed that HUGO BOSS innovation is breaking new ground with the smart factory. Thus US-based market research and consulting company International Data Corporation honored the production location with the first prize in the categories “Internet of Things” and “Big data and artificial intelligence”. In particular, it stressed the pioneering role of HUGO BOSS in data analytics and in forecasting production errors.

Burberry has launched its first online game called B Bounce, bringing the gaming experience to customers globally on Burberry.com for the first time. In this engaging and playful game, players race a deer-shaped character to the moon, using supercharged Thomas Burberry monogram puffer jackets. Once the player has selected a puffer jacket for the character, they bounce upwards between platforms to reach the moon, gaining extra speed by collecting Burberry’s gold TB logos and drones along the way.

Players can compete for special B Bounce prizes, with winners awarded custom made GIFs and virtual Burberry puffer jackets edited onto a digital picture of their choice. The first prize is a real jacket from the new Burberry puffer collection, available to players in UK, US, Canada, China, Japan and Korea.

B Bounce is also available to play on the super-size screen inside Burberry’s flagship store on Regent Street in London.

Mark Morris, Senior Vice President of Digital Commerce at Burberry said: “We have experimented with gaming in China, but B Bounce is our first playful extension into this format to entertain and connect with our new, younger consumers around the world. We know that they are living in an increasingly gamified environment both online and offline and we are excited that they can join the Burberry community – and explore our new puffer collection – in this way” B Bounce launches together with Burberry’s new puffer jacket collection and is now available to play on Burberry.com

SUSHI is a capsule collection by brand SUN68. Sold exclusivelyon https://sun68.comand through SUN68 Italian Flagship Stores in Milano, Bologna, Veronaand Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza).

The SUSHI collection is inspired by a journey through the metropolis of the world, with the first stop in Tokyo, Japan. An exploration of the city in all its aspects: street style trends, typical food, history and artistic tradition, ideograms and writing. This collection is the expression of the communicative freedom that represents SUN68’s essence and philosophy.

Main inspiration for the capsule name: a take-away sushi, super fresh food for immediate consumption. A fun yet contemporary approach designing clothes easy and fast to wear.

A transversal project that characterizes a young street wear product: Tencell jersey t-shirts, triacetate sweaters and overalls, wool accessories, nylon rain jackets.

In celebration of their AW19 collection ParaJumpers is releasing their new campaign project; STORIES. A multi-media travelogue that tells stories of ordinary people, their passions, and how ParaJumpers innovative outerwear supports their unique lifestyles. The first chapter, released today on 17th October, is set against beauty at low temperatures in Svalbard.

Capturing the everyday life of the unique characters who inhabit the last frontier before reaching the Arctic Circle the voices of Svalbard tell their STORIES of the unrelenting chill, a never-ending white landscape with jarring contrasts of midnight sun in summer, the Aurora Borealis come winter, the incredible wildlife and soothing echoing silence. To live here, the inhabitants embrace the isolation, the lack of creature comforts and the uncertainty that comes with living in the Norwegian archipelago thanks to its enticing mix of 51 cultures, sense of community, no stress, no crime, and eerie beauty that offers a uniquely colourful and inclusive home. 

And, to match the needs required by isolated snow bound valleys ParaJumpers’ pushed the technical boundaries to respond to the Arctic’s extreme conditions with the new All Star Fall/Winter 2019-20 collection – a range of men’s and women’s outdoor garments that fuse technical innovation with traditional Italian craftsmanship. 

Jil Sander will be the Guest Designer of Pitti Immagine Uomo no. 97 (taking place in Florence from 7th till 10th January 2020). Lucie and Luke Meier – co-creative directors of Jil Sander since spring 2017 – will present the new menswear collection of the iconic fashion house at a special event in Florence.

“We have following with great interest the work of Lucie and Luke Meier at Jil Sander”, says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine director of communications and events. “A very precise vision of fashion, where there is clearly a constant search for equilibrium between the respect for minimalist codes – which made the history of the brand – and the desire to incite emotion, combined with great attention to details. When they talk about their collections, it is as if they were describing a character, a complex and multifaceted individual. The desire to create clothes that last over time, is an approach that we find to be absolutely fresh and contemporary, to which the special event in Florence should be able to give a further contribution in terms of freedom of expression”.

“For us, showing in Florence is both an honor and a completion”, say Lucie and Luke Meier, co-creative directors of Jil Sander. “We first met in Florence, and never imagined that we would be back here together showing at Pitti Uomo. This opportunity is a truly special one, and we look forward to contributing to the legacy of this city and Pitti Uomo”.

The date and the venue of the event will be unveiled on the occasion of the Pitti Immagine press road show in November.

From 14th to 16th January 2020, the upcoming edition of Neonyt will be taking a closer look at the fashion industry’s carbon footprint, as well as presenting best- practice labels and encouraging industry-relevant discussions on the increasingly digitalised future – always from the analytical perspective of inspiring pioneers and pragmatic experts in sustainability. With views of the former runway of the decommissioned Berlin Tempelhof Airport, and the expanses of the sky above it, the overarching theme of the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation, will certainly be palpable. 

“In these times of Fridays for Future and society’s growing awareness of sustainability, many industry players are recognising the necessity of sustainability in fashion. From the very beginning, Neonyt has been dedicated to the major topics affecting the fashion industry – such as the use of resources, working conditions and pioneering technologies. This season with ́air ́ we are again setting the theme for the Berlin Fashion Week, and will ask what the future of fashion will look like,” says Thimo Schwenzfeier, Neonyt’s Show Director. 

Air serves as our protective coating – a thick layer of nitrogen and oxygen that wraps itself protectively around the earth and warms us. But the air we breathe is polluted by smog and fine dust particles. And a major contributor of that is the textile industry, which is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions.1 Which means it’s high time that we paid even more attention to the topic. 

As a next step in the recently initiated restructuring of the business, Strenesse appinted sales agency Toepfer GmbH & Co.KG, based in Düsseldorf to take over its B2B sales in the DACH countries (Germany, Austria, Switzerland).
“The agency’s range of products together with the sales expertise that Udo Toepfer’s team brings to the brand, represent the ideal partner for the further development of the Strenesse brand,” says Strenesse’s management.
Restructuring in the context of self-administration is already well advanced and Strenesse is stable for the future, confirms the management.

Opening on 29th February 2020, the V&A museum in London will hold its exhibition called ‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’. This exhibition will present the kimono as a dynamic and constantly evolving icon of fashion, revealing the sartorial, aesthetic and social significance of the garment from the 1660s to the present day, both in Japan and the rest of the world.

More than 315 works will be featured, including a kimono especially made for the show, half drawn from the V&A’s superlative collections and the rest generously lent by museums and private collections in Britain, Europe, America and Japan.

Last weekend, HUGO BOSS unveiled its newly refurbished BOSS flagship store at the heart of the most beautiful avenue in Paris, seven years after its last renovation. During more than seven months of renovation work, the store remained open and was refurbished in four different phases while allowing customers to explore the collections and store as usual.

“Reopening the BOSS store on the Champs-Élysées is a milestone in our retail endeavors. I am very happy with the result, which translates the creative vision of the brand to this location,” says Mark Langer, CEO of HUGO BOSS AG.

With over 1,200 square meters of retail space, the Champs-Élysées store is the largest BOSS flagship store in the world. It is also one of the first of its kind to feature a special interior design concept that seamlessly integrates the online and offline worlds, allowing for new forms of customer interaction. Furniture with interactive features offers customers the chance to discover the complete collection digitally, and inspires them with editorial content.

The open layout of the floors highlights the light materials and colors used, such as a stone floor with a marble effect, light oak wood and white marble platforms. The lighting concept gives the store an even more open look thanks to the numerous skylights and large windows which open up to views of the outside world. Backlit walls add additional light and depth to the space.

The seating was specially developed for the Champs-Élysées store and inspired by the style of Pierre Paulin, the designer behind the decoration of part of the Palais de l’Élysées in the 1970s and 1980s. The color combination of the armchairs and tables, in blue and pink velvet with black and gold contrasting touches, is also unique. Combined with lighter shades, the overall impression accentuates the lounge-like atmosphere.

The most important part of the renovation was the relocation of the staircase to the entrance of the store, making it a central feature, leading to the mezzanine and lower level. This new location gives the store a whole new look, inviting visitors to discover the entirety of the store as soon as they enter.

CHIC Shanghai, China’s most important fashion and lifestyle trade fair, successfully closed its September issue on September 27th. On the three days of the fair, almost 700 exhibitors from 10 countries presented themselves to the 45,000 visitors at the NECC in Shanghai on more than 62,000 square meters.

Once again, CHIC has proven to be a constant for the Chinese fashion industry and fashion retail in a rapidly changing market environment. Both Chinese and international exhibitors were satisfied and recorded direct on-site deals and an increase in order-oriented business contacts. They benefited from the extensive range of matching services offered by the trade fair organisers who have focused on optimal visitor management.

The appointment of Wenzhuo Zhao, famous Chinese kung-fu actor, as ambassador for sustainable fashion caused a stir in the re-integrated Sustainability Zone. Likewise, the sustainable hoodie collection of China’s most famous sportswear brand Li Ning, and the visit of blogger and KOL Binger.

Chen Dapeng, President of the CHIC and China National Garment Association draws a positive conclusion from the show: “CHIC is a reflection of the extremely dynamic Chinese apparel market, whose consumers are the fastest to adapt to new trends and tendencies around the world, and all market developments will be reflected at CHIC, with the fair’s service tools geared towards networking among its market partners. The Chinese market is undergoing changes to which it has not been exposed in the last hundred years: a permanently changing society shaped by the younger generation of consumers with the desire for individualization; the technological change, the digitization of the entire production and distribution chain; the increasing social and ecological responsibility of the companies. Challenges that companies have to face and keep pace with. In this environment, CHIC is the reliable basis that is used by all market participants. “

Luxury group Kering, through its Women In Motion program, is partnering with the creative arts publisher Phaidon and its sister company Artspace, a leading online marketplace, to launch the new book Great Women Artists.

The book, which is titled Great Women Artists, will feature female artists that reflects an era where art made by women is more prominent than ever. The book tells the stories of over 400 artists spanning 500 years and reveals a parallel yet equally engaging history of art for an age that champions a great diversity of voices.

Kering said in a press release it is strengthening its commitment to women in the arts. Since its creation in 2015, Women In Motion has highlighted the creativity and uniqueness of talented women whose work in the fields of arts and culture, is helping to transform our vision of the world. This support also manifests through the Kering Foundation which has been combating violence against women worldwide for over 10 years.

In celebration of Great Women Artists and with the support of Kering, Phaidon and Artspace will launch a charitable portfolio of limited-edition prints to benefit one of the Kering Foundation’s partners and aims to raise close to 1 million dollars for the non-profit Promundo-US, a leading organization in promoting gender justice, preventing violence against women by engaging boys and men as partners with women and girls.

The funds raised by Phaidon and Artspace, will support the launch of a Boyhood Campaign and Initiative co-developed by Promundo and the Kering Foundation, alongside other partners, including those focused on girls’ empowerment.

“I think that fashion is about the future, and you shouldn’t have to sacrifice your style for sustainability,” said Stella McCartney while backstage at her Spring 2020 fashion show. That idea applied well to McCartney’s collection, a playful mash-up of Savile Row tailoring and free-spirited dresses that she considers her most sustainable offering yet, but also to a new material McCartney has developed with DuPont. Called Koba, it is the first faux fur to be made using 37% plant-based ingredients. It’s also partially made from recycled polyester that can be recycled again at the end of the product’s life. “I wanted to try to develop a faux fur that was just more sustainable,” McCartney continued, explaining that she worked hand in hand with DuPont for about 18 months to develop the Koba to her eco standards.

The soft, plush fabric made its debut at McCartney’s show, not on the runway but in the front row, where model Natalia Vodianova wore a black jacket made of Koba faux fur. The model and friend of McCartney’s styled the jacket with a pleated skirt and stiletto boots—an apt ensemble for her (also very eco) method of arriving to the show, a Lime scooter. 

Amazon will soon open door to its four-day event called “Destination Denim” which will bring technology, music and culture to the denim shopping experience. Visitors to the festival, taking place October 24th till 27th in the Kühlhaus in Berlin can participate in educational events in the form of workshops, panels and demonstrations. Musical artists including Rita Ora, Jorja Smith and Anne-Marie are slated to perform.

The extensive denim category of Amazon Fashion will be shoppable for attendees, featuring hero products from brands including Levi’s Wrangler, G-Star, Replay and 7 For All Mankind. Amazon will also offer exclusive products from Tommy Jeans, find. and Amazon Essentials.

LUZIA Paris is a new shoe project created by the French designer Michel Perry. Michel Perry decided that time is right to make a real journey into the history of fashion shoes: far from the echo of terms like “hype” and “mainstream”, and made of values, emotions, and highest artisan quality.

Flanked by a young and eclectic design team, Michel Perry begins a process a identification, decomposition, and analysis of every detail of women’s shoes before proceeding reconstruct all through an elaboration that cannot ignore the current aesthetic standards. The project is characterized by an alternative spirit devoted to experimentation.

The union of its couture and luxurious souls join together with a new and alternative experimental feeling that gives life to LUZIA Paris.

This almost extraterrestrial extraterritoriality is akin to Avant Toi’s artistically rebellious spirit; impossible to confine through strict canons, though it always maintains a perfectly recognizable identity. A philosophy which Avant Toi shares with the photographer Yuri Catania: sensibility, culture and personal experiences merge, mixing seriousness and mirth, in images which expose all the qualities of the fall/winter 2019-2020 collection.

A collection which is filled with color and warmth. Pure and almost heroic in the unlimited spaces of the Mohave desert, it finds itself at ease in the artistic atmosphere of the Joshua Tree Festival. A motel in the middle of nowhere appears to emerge from a Wim Wenders movie, allowing for suspended, intimate moments which portray inherent freedom and vitality. Always traversed by a powerful energy injected by these extreme conditions and locations, Avant Toi is inspired by scenarios in which apparel is the natural extension of the beauty and freedom of bodies and souls.

For the third time, fashion accessory brand De Marquet attended Milan Fashion Week, with not only one, but three new additions to their Night&Day universe: The De Marquet Cover Collection SS2020 will be showcased in the brand’s own Concept Store in the trendy Brera district. With the «Art Collection» and the «Jewel Collection», two new and exclusive cover lines are presented. With this, the new Night&Day Micro was also presented, which is the first Red Carpet-ready clutch to match the brand’s typical interchangeable and versatile covers. 

The Night&Day bag by De Marquet follows today’s trend: The multifunctional concept convinces with its high-quality workmanship “Made in Italy” and a contemporary, minimalist design in which the front and back of the bag are identical. With just two “clicks”, the covers can be interchanged as desired. An inspiring accessory for the fashion- conscious, sophisticated and active woman. The Night&Day line by De Marquet offers two different base sizes, the “Midi” and “Mini”, which will now be joined by the brand new and glamourous “Micro” clutch. 

The highlight of the SS2020 cover collection are the two new Limited Editions: For the Night&Day “Art Collection”, the renowned New York-based fashion illustrator and artist Izak Zenou has realized three exclusive art covers: a tribute to the timeless style and charm of Parisian women and Haute Couture. From each cover, only 50 numbered copies were made, each hand- signed by Zenou. The first Night&Day “Jewel Collection” impresses with its exclusivity and extraordinary sophistication. The precious collection was created in collaboration with the Parisian fashion jewelry house Boks&Baum and consists of unique pieces. Each cover has been hand-finished with rare semi-precious stones, selected crystal beads and the finest silk. A jewel of a bag. 

The bags and accessories of De Marquet are hand-crafted by artisans in partner ateliers in Tuscany. 

The trilobate structure of the nylon yarn, with its grey weft and white, ready-to-dye warp colours, is the basis of the distinctive metallic and tonic sheen of Nylon Metal, one of the most versatile fabrics born of Stone Island’s textile research.

An elaborate double dye procedure provides different tones, intensities and colours to the fibres and textile accessories of the garments. The Stone Island Compass patch is applied to all product families. Outerwear pieces and accessories are in Nylon Metal Watro Ripstop, resin treated inside to achieve a mild wind and water resistance.

Tommy Hilfiger and five-time Formula One World Champion Lewis Hamilton presented the new TOMMYXLEWIS Fall/Winter 2019 collection this week, as part of a unique TOMMYNOW show in Milan. The event, with more than 500 guests, took place in the Società del Giardino and celebrated the creative gathering, blending Lewis’ fashionable street vibes with Tommy Hilfiger’s typically American DNA. 

The new styles were brought to life during a dynamic presentation – a variety of models posed on multi-level platforms and in front of infinity mirrors. The looks of the current collection are now available in more than 65 countries. They can be purchased through various online channels, including tommy.com, as well as selected TOMMY HILFIGER stores or social media.

Arch & Hook, the world’s leading and only sustainable hanger brand, launches BLUE – the world’s first hanger made entirely of Marine Plastics. Created for use in the fashion industry, BLUE turns the hanger industry on its head by presenting a 100% recycled, fully closed loop alternative to source plastic for hangers.

Blue hangers are initially intended for use in the ‘garment on hanger’ (GOH) transport stage of fashion retail distribution. This unknown, unseen stage is when garments are transported from factories to stores, before being discarded for branded front of house hangers. It is estimated that 150 billion garments are produced globally every year1. There are currently no figures available for hanger production, on a local or global level. If just two thirds of these garments use GOH, this would mean that an estimated 100 billion hangers are used annually for this stage alone. The majority of these hangers are used once and 85% will end up in landfill, taking more than 1,000 years to degrade. 

“Sustainability is going to bring people together. I was very fortunate to meet Sjoerd from Arch & Hook. Together we’ve found a solution for the future of the fashion industry. Opportunities are or will be available – fashion has to come together to take action. We’re grateful to the BFC for allowing us to meet,” Roland Mouret states on the partnership between his brand and Arch & Hook. 

CHIC Shanghai will present from 25th till 27th of September 2019 more than 690 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions on more than 60,000 square meters at the NECC in Shanghai for the September issue its edition.

China’s strong domestic market is expected to boost retail sales this year by 3.5% to approximately $ 5.3 trillion, despite trade conflicts with the US. With a market share of 54.7%, China also remains the world’s largest e-commerce market. This positive trend is reflected in the CHIC: all the exhibition areas are fully booked: the four CHIC YOUNG BLOOD show-in-shows, CHIC-KIDZ, CHIC-TAILORING and Korea preview, as well as the nine trade fair segments. 

The established Sustainable Zone has a special appearance: Sustainable development, green innovations and ecological supply chain solutions are the focus of attention at two places at the fair.

In FASHION JOURNEY international brands showcase in country pavilions (Italy, Korea, Hong Kong etc.). International individual exhibitors also present themselves in the different exhibition segments. The professional visitor management and matchmaking offered by CHIC enables international participants to participate efficiently in trade fairs. The trade fair is rounded off by comprehensive insider information at CHIC TALKS. 

The 88th edition of MICAM, the international footwear exhibition promoted by Assocalzaturifici, came to a close this week at the Rho Fiera Milano. The event was attended by 44,076 trade visitors, including 60% from abroad, who were able to peruse a wide range of exhibits offered by 1303 companies.

Attendance figures showed a 0.94% increase in individual visitor numbers compared with February 2019. In particular, dealers from abroad rose by almost 2% while there was a 0.55% drop in the number of Italians.

On the international front, substantial numbers of visitors from China and Hong Kong were seen, due to the fact that the show did not coincide with holidays in those countries; as well as a 10% increase in attendees from Switzerland. Traditional European markets substantially held up while a double-digit drop in visitors from Russia (-12.85%) and Ukraine (-8.68%) was seen.

MICAM 88 was the first edition under the guidance of the new Chair Siro Badon: “Trade fairs continue to provide our companies with a great opportunity to do business and, seeing the results, we are proud of the success of this edition which confirms MICAM’s standing as the world’s leading footwear trade show”. “Our association – continues Badon – will continue to help our companies internationalise their business, using every possible means to bring together quality products and buyers who are capable of appreciating them – with particular reference to the Russian and Ukrainian markets which, as was already forecast prior to the event, are shrinking”.

The edition which has just concluded marked an important anniversary: fifty years since the first edition of the fair. A symbolic and pivotal moment for the industry which is undergoing a significant transformation, both as regards the production process and the whole ethos surrounding footwear, including the way it is perceived by the final consumer.

MICAM also represented an opportunity to relaunch Italian-made footwear at a time when our shoe manufacturing districts continue to experience difficulties, by showing that Italian fashion creations are not only extremely well-made but also an iconic part of our country’s culture. An aspect reiterated by Ivan Scalfarotto, Undersecretary of State for Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, on the occasion of his visit to the fair, during which he announced a series of initiatives to promote internationalization and fully exploit the fashion system’s potential.

Amongst the various novelties presented during this edition of MICAM, the one that aroused particular interest on the part of trade visitors was the PLAYERS DISTRICT. This new exhibit area was created to provide a showcase specifically for sports and outdoor shoes, a segment that is increasingly attracting the attention of buyers and consumers and that requires manufacturers to invest continually in research and technology. A number of exciting collateral events, such as the MICAM Trophy, were held in this lively new area, which is to be developed further for the February edition.

The It’s Shoe Time exhibition in the Fashion Square was a huge success. Set up to celebrate the trade fair’s fiftieth anniversary, it took visitors on an immersive journey through time, tracing the way life-styles – as reflected in shoe fashions – evolved from the Seventies to the present day.

After wowing trade visitors at the fair centre, the exhibition will transfer to MUDEC where it will be open to the public from 19 to 22 September, free-of-charge: a unique opportunity to present the ‘footwear culture’ and MICAM to the wider public present during fashion week.

The special feature of the ALBERTO collections is their versatility. A Swiss artist now put this aspect in the limelight: from 200 ALBERTO trousers, Simon Berger created an impressive art installation. Sophisticated draping of the pants created an oversized face. An artistic highlight that will fascinate viewers as of today, 19th September at ALBERTO dealer LOEB in Bern, until 30th September 2019. The ALBERTO face can be admired on the first floor on a newly created pop-up area.

The owner, Dominique Mifsud, is impressed by the unconventional work of Simon Berger and had the idea for the trouser installation. “Fashion and art are related, they are amazing, they surprise and fascinate, they stage and attract attention,” says Dominique Mifsud, “I personally think this installation is great because it puts a completely new relation on pants fashion and literally a face on it The ALBERTO face joins a number of prominent predecessors: musician Ray Charles – who was copied from an old piano. James Bond actor Daniel Craig – his face was made from a Jaguar XJ. Or Albert Einstein, which is made up of colorful auto parts. The artworks are all anamorphoses. So works that open up to the viewer only from a specific angle. 

The British Fashion Council has announced that Giorgio Armani will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award at The Fashion Awards 2019, on Monday 2nd December at the Royal Albert Hall, London. Giorgio Armani will be awarded for his outstanding contribution to the global fashion industry, his creativity and vision of timeless style and care for detail, that have provided such inspiration to so many in the industry. 

As the Chairman and CEO of the Armani Group, one of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle design houses and among the few with a sole owner directly involved in all strategic decisions concerning style and design, Giorgio Armani has overseen the growth of the label from a ready- to-wear brand to a luxury fashion empire. His fashion philosophy, vision of style as lifestyle, together with his entrepreneurial ability, are the basis for the success of the Armani Group; including the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, and A/X Armani Exchange collections. 

Caroline Rush CBE, Chief Executive, commented: “We are thrilled to be honouring Giorgio Armani with the Outstanding Achievement Award. With more than four decades in the business, Mr Armani’s contribution to the fashion industry is indeed outstanding. Renowned for his timeless vision of style and the brands’ ability to stay relevant, he has led the way where other brands have followed. We look forward to celebrating with him in London in December.” 

DuPont Sorona gathered sustainable food and fashion leaders from across the country for thoughtful conversation around the slow food and fashion movements on Angel Island outside of San Francisco, Calif on September 11th. Experts from industry brands such as Banana Republic and Gap, NGOs such as Fair Trade USA-Apparel and the Outdoor Industry Association, and members of the media discussed how the slow food and slow fashion movements can influence each other to drive a more circular economy.

“We know that thoughtful discussion and meaningful collaboration – even across industries –drives real change. With this in mind, Sorona brought together experts from the slow food and slow fashion movements to discuss how our industries can learn from each other and become more sustainable,” said Renee Henze, Global Marketing Director for DuPont Biomaterials. “By consuming food that is good for people and the planet, and manufacturing, selling and buying clothing that is sustainably-sourced, durable and fashionable, we all can work together to promote and drive a more circular economy.”

The event featured a sustainable fashion show with models outfitted in apparel manufactured with the Sorona fiber, DuPont’s 37 percent bio-based material used in a variety of apparel applications from ready-to-wear, to luxury, to outerwear. Thought leaders, such as 2 time-Olympic skier Kaylin Richardson and James Beard award nominated photographer, Eric Wolfinger, were amongst the models highlighting Sorona apparel that contained fashions from brands such as Helly Hansen, Royal Robbins, prAna, Tommy Bahama, The North Face, Taylor Stitch, Club Monaco and more. Over locally sourced food and wine, guests also received a talk from experts at San Francisco’s Marine Mammal Center and a tour by an Angel Island Park Ranger.

The current MIPEL edition, the international event dedicated to the B2B market of bags and fashion accessories, is taking place under the guidance of the new President of Assopellettieri, Franco Gabbrielli. Many news and collaborations will be presented thanks to the contribution of Gabbrielli who, already at his nomination at the end of June, declared that among the priorities to direct efforts there would have been the renewal of the MIPEL fair, which must focus more and more on quality, young people and innovative ideas. 

“I joined the organization when MIPEL116th edition was already mostly planned but we have already brought several interesting innovations that I am sure will be appreciated by visitors and exhibitors; I’m already thinking about the next MIPEL117 to complete the path of renewal I have in mind”, says Gabbrielli. 

The event, organized by Assopellettieri with the support of ITA-Italian Trade Agency and MISE, renews its commitment in favor of environmental sustainability and social responsibility. 

Next edition, MIPEL116, which is currently being held in pavilion 10 of FieraMilano-Rho from 15 to 18 September, in conjunction with MICAM and HOMI (15 and 16 September) continues the path begun last season, based on awareness of the supply chain and consumers on sustainability. 

At MIPEL116 all the special projects are linked together and united by the common denominator which is sustainability. This is how the consumption of plastic bottles will be compensated by the creation of drinkable water wells for the most unlucky populations and in raising awareness of visitors and exhibitors to recycle them properly; part of the carbon dioxide produced in the days of the fair will be compensated by trees planted in another area of the world, an activity that will also support local economies, ensuring farmers and workers with work and food. 

The environmental sustainability promoted by MIPEL116 is highlighted also from the promotion of virtuous means of transport such as the tram, dedicating a special project to it. 

The innovative range of MoveX CORDURA NYCO stretch fabrics from Sapphire Mills offers a specifically engineered enhanced stretch solution that provides the chemical resistance and dimensional stability required for garments subjected to higher temperature washing.  Developed as a result of extensive testing and trials to maximise and utilise stretch potential through the fabric manufacturing process, the MoveX range offers the comfort of cotton, the durability of nylon and excellent stretch and stretch-recovery properties.  This makes it an ideal solution for the creation of flexible, comfortable, hard-wearing garments with long-lasting performance.  With MoveX CORDURA NYCO fabrics designers can bring to life workwear that meets the endurance challenges of a wide range of environments and the flexibility requirements of daily work activities. 

Environmental charity, Redress presented the finale of The Redress Design Award 2019 (the world’s largest sustainable fashion design competition), where Maddie Williams from the UK won first prize and with this, the opportunity to create an up-cycled retail collection for sustainable fashion brand REVERB, under the JNBY Group, one of Mainland China’s largest fashion houses. Focusing on Redress’ mission to reduce waste in fashion, the high-spectacle event, attended by 1,000 fashion VIPs and industry experts, served to spotlight the critical need to educate designers to address the global textile waste crisis. 

Winning designer Maddie Williams applies up-cycling and reconstruction techniques to reclaimed textiles, yarns and secondhand clothing, weaving them into zero-waste pieces that she constructs into her garments. Maddie draws on the vast loss of biodiversity, planetary health and our humanity in her winning collection. “Taking my catwalk competition collection into a commercial up-cycled collection will be a steep learning curve and I’ll be trying my best to keep sustainable, circular principles at the core of what I do! This is our time to tackle the environmental problems that we have inherited – we won’t get another chance!” 

International judge Tillmann Lauterbach, Creative Director, REVERB of JNBY Group, said “REVERB is committed to making sustainable fashion go mainstream. Working with Maddie, we want to give consumers more access to desirable sustainable fashion, particularly in Asia, where waste is a tremendous issue that needs to be addressed immediately.” 

Redress focuses on educating designers because 80 percent of a product’s environmental impact is laid down at the design stage. This ninth competition cycle, with Create Hong Kong (CreateHK) of the Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region as the Lead Sponsor, attracted hundreds of applications from designers in 43 countries and builds upon Redress’ 120 global fashion university partnerships, and 186 Alumni designers from 27 countries, of which 50 have launched their sustainable brands. Redress’ work continues to cement Hong Kong’s leading position in driving sustainability in fashion. 

This year’s finalists, from Hong Kong, India, Australia, Canada, UK, Israel, Spain and Germany, created collections using sustainable and circular design techniques, up-cycling widely-available waste materials, from unwanted workers’ uniforms and saris to defective camping gear and bedsheets. With a new educational focus on innovation in raw materials, the finalists also incorporated sustainable fabrics from Eastman Naia into their Grand Final collections. 

Zalando has announced the launch of a four-week pilot that aims to test reusable packaging for customer deliveries. 10.000 customers in Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland will receive their Zalando orders in bags that can be used over and over again. This is yet another measure for Zalando’s ambition to become the leading platform for sustainable fashion in Europe.

Reusable packaging is a fresh concept for e-commerce, but could quickly become the new standard for shipping, as two environmental problems are being tackled at the same time: carbon dioxide emissions and waste. Unlike disposable packaging, reuse keeps materials out of the waste stream and extends the life cycle of the original raw material. By eliminating waste and reducing the production of packaging, carbon dioxide emissions are potentially reduced by up to 80 percent. In a first pilot project, the extent to which reusable packaging can be integrated into existing logistics processes will be tested.

The special packaging is a change for Zalando customers. On the one hand, the unpacking experience is different from that of the classic package, on the other hand, a more intensive engagement with the packaging is required. In order to be able to reuse the packaging, it has to be added to the cycle again. This means that even if Zalando customers do not want to return anything, the packaging must be returned. However, an international consumer survey with 4,000 participants from spring 2019, shows that there is a willingness to do this; 83 percent of Germans and 67 percent of Finnish participants are trying to reduce the quantities of plastic in their daily life. The use of reusable packaging could contribute to this.

The packaging is presented in our upcoming 60th issue of WeAr if you like to get more information. 

Equipped with a clear mission, PANORAMA Berlin is relocating to Tempelhof Airport from January 2020. In light of the far-reaching changes sweeping through the fashion industry, the relevance of conventional trade fair formats as we know them is being questioned.

PANORAMA Berlin established itself as the leading tradeshow of Berlin Fashion Week in a very short time. And parallel to this, a plethora of additional purchasing channels have emerged for consumers in the retail sector in the last decade, both offline and online. Today’s consumers want to feel that they are understood and that they are be- ing met halfway when it comes to their values and attitudes.

This is where PANORAMA Berlin’s REBEL WITH A CAUSE comes in. 50% of the brands represented in bricks-and-mortar retail will no longer be around in the next ten years and new innovative ideas are already in the starting blocks! The brands and retailers who have understood that they need to make consumer values and attitudes the focus of their strategy are the ones who will be successful tomorrow.
Standing still is going backwards, simply trudging along with a “same old, same old” attitude just doesn’t cut it anymore. And that’s what PANORAMA Berlin is rebelling against. Consumers these days want clear messages and emotional experiences.

Even though the answers might sometimes hurt, we will ask the questions that help us achieve success in the future. Why are we always looking back at the past? Why are we afraid of making decisions? Why are we not concentrating on our strengths? Where’s all the courage gone?
At Tempelhof Airport, the new PANORAMA Berlin is offering space to brands that dare to challenge established structures and who realise the importance of value- oriented consumer behaviour.

The new PANORAMA Berlin is putting the spotlight on the consumers and calling for a collective uprising against the “same old, same old” mentality.

Sustainability is key for today’s businesses’ success. The end consumers want it and the Earth requires it. However, it is a topic that is difficult to understand and even harder to tackle. WeAr has asked experts across the industry, from fiber manufacturers to retailers to activists, to shed some light on this topic. We have grouped their discussion points into several key topics. These are the complete answers and summarised in WeAr’s issue 60.

CINDY MCNAULL, GLOBAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, CORDURA
A driver for Invista’s Cordura brand fabric is in providing solutions that are durable and long-lasting in order to help minimize waste and reduce water and energy consumption. We believe in responsible manufacturing to use resources effectively and ultimately that ‘Sustainability Begins With Products That Last’. Consumer education to understand sustainable choices will be key to the long term success of brands.
www.cordura.com

GORDON GIERS, CEO, CLOSED
I don’t think there is sustainable fashion really because clothing and the consumption of clothing as such is not a really sustainable and ecological act.

But we’re doing the best we can to make it as sustainable as we can. We’re trying to be very respectful with our environment. We’re using less water when we wash our clothes, when we are developing environmentally friendly washing techniques and dying techniques. We replaced down with Ecodown from Thremore, which is made out of PET bottles. And it is important I think to be on the case the entire time and to chase new techniques and to follow that idea the entire time.

We’re moving our production closer to our main markets. So we are trying to reduce our carbon footprint where we can.

And we’ve always had a very long-term strategy with everything we did really, with product development and also with relationships we’ve built with our partners. And working with many of our long-term suppliers still after more than 20 years is our probably most sustainable achievement.

I think it’s our general approach to things. We do want to make things as good as possible. We want to make them cool and spot-on trend. But we also want to make sure that we do something that is environmentally friendly and, as we call it today, sustainable.

I think what also needs to be looked at is everything around the product, packaging. How do we ship stuff from A to B? And do we fly it? Do we put it on a boat? What’s better? We’re currently replacing our packaging to recycled paper, and any plastic to biodegradable. It’s important to apply the concept not only onto production but the entire supply chain.
www.closed.com

SAFIA MINNEY, MBE, Founder, PEOPLE TREE, advisor & author of ‘Slow Fashion’ and ‘Slave To Fashion’
“The fashion industry is responsible for 7% CO2 global emissions, more than the aviation and shipping industries combined. Fashion and textiles need to become zero carbon by 2030, ideally 2025. It means producing and buying LESS new clothes. We will be buying second hand, renting and swapping clothes, repairing and making our own. When we do by new we will want clothes produced ethically & sustainably  – ideally, they will be handcrafted, through Fair Trade, and made from 100% natural and organic materials, to ensuring that fashion promotes better livelihoods for farmers, artisans and workers. People Tree & other sustainable brands show that another way is possible. Fast fashion, is a 40 year blip in history, that put profit before social and environmental justice – it’s a missed opportunity to make fashion a powerful tool to lift people out of poverty – instead we lift glasses of micro-fibre filled water to our lips and toast our failing capitalist system – I think we all hope for better? Shopping ethically and less new stuff isn’t enough, we need to get political too and build a new system. “
www.peopletree.co.uk

RENEE HENZE, GLOBAL MARKETING DIRECTOR DUPONT BIOMATERIALS
In the sustainable fashion industry, emphasis is often placed on the responsible sourcing and composition of materials. Although highly important, other critical factors must also be taken into consideration to maximize eco-efficiency. Garments should have strong performance benefits, including stretch recovery, durability, color retention and softness, so that consumers don’t toss them out after a few wears. Businesses should take note that sustainability and performance do not need to be mutually exclusive – on the contrary, they can co-exist and ultimately elevate each other.”

PAOLO BODO, CEO, Nipi ITALIA
In general, we believe we are putting a strain on our planet. Fashion, in particular, is a highly polluting sector and involves strong consumption of resources.

For us at THINDOWN®, the world’s first and only 100% natural down fabric, entirely produced in Italy by NIPI (Natural Insulation Products Inc), a conscious utilisation of raw materials is key. From the beginning we have paid the utmost attention to transparency and sustainability. THINDOWN® has been RDS certified: Responsible Down Standard which guarantees the traceability of the whole production chain and STANDARD 100 certified by OEKO-TEX® in its highest class, Class I.

Constant research, quality, innovation, technology, are the founding elements of the brand, resulting in our latest product development: the first 100% post consumer regenerated down fabric, THINDOWN® Recycled. A clean version of THINDOWN® offering equal performance and features, but planet friendly. Down has a longer lifecycle than garments and duvets, offering chances to a circular management of raw materials.

Nowadays the real luxury in fashion is represented by sustainability and, with the environmental emergency we are experiencing, sustainability must be an urgent call and the starting point of the whole creative process. The sustainability paradigm should be leading the entire supply chain: from the choice of raw materials, to producing process, distribution, up to the way it is sold and finally disposed from final consumers.

VICENTE CASTELLANO, Executive Chairman NORTH SAILS
As far as north sails is concerned, we are using recycled plastic in our outerware, as much as we can, and we have now reached more than 70% of production. At the same time we have eliminated all the plastic from our ecomm packaging and replaced it with cotton bags to be reused in daily life. Starting from next season, we are introducing new fabrics such as bamboo, viscose and seacell, that are much more sustainable options than normal oil-derived fabrics. Customers have the right to know more and to choose from better alternatives.

These are just few examples: it is a long process, and we are just at the beginning of it, but we strongly believe that it’s essential  for the future of our planet

The most important aspect of sustainability is knowledge. Only when people are informed and have options to choose from, then we can say we have reached our objective. We are investing most of our marketing budget into awareness on plastic pollution creating sustainability relataed communication campaigns, we are devolving 1% of our revenues to ocean family foundation to support ocean protection and yarn sourcing is becoming a very important task within the company. We are at the beginning of a long journey but we do believe in this commitment
It’s a new business model and we are satisfied with it.

KRISTINA SZASZ, CHIEF PRODUCT & MARKETING OFFICER, S.OLIVER
Sustainability is more important than ever for the s.Oliver Group. As a family business, it comes naturally for s.Oliver to take responsibility for social concerns, manufacturing processes and safe products. Until recently, these measures have largely run in the background and have not been actively communicated. We are now experiencing a rapid increase in the awareness and interest of our consumers in the subject of sustainability, which is also shown by the requests to our customer service. That’s why we’re going to be more communicative here.

To further strengthen this issue, the Group has its own s.Oliver Corporate Responsibility Board, which is based on top management level. This board has set up the WE CARE program, which bundles all sustainability activities across the Group. In this committee we have also developed a new product strategy and set ourselves binding targets for the procurement of sustainable materials across all divisions.

When it comes to cotton, for example, we at s.Oliver have been working closely with the sustainable cotton standard Cotton made in Africa for many years and have also been a member of the Better Cotton Initiative since this year. We have already almost achieved the target set for 2019 with a volume in the seven-digit range. Another important component is the production of denim, in which we are increasingly focusing on environmentally friendly finishing techniques with significantly reduced use of water and chemicals.The first products will be available from 2020.

We will also introduce our own WE CARE label in 2020. This label will be applied to all products that have been developed and manufactured according to strict criteria with a special focus on sustainability.

ALESSANDRO BIASOTTI OOF
We experience the consequences of climate change firsthand every day and we believe it is our duty now to reconsider the relationship between man and planet. The fashion industry can no longer have a passive approach to the topic. This is why we are trying year after year to offer our consumers not only an increasingly fashionable but also more sustainable product.

Usually you choose a garment only by looking at it but you fall in love with it by touching it with your hands, feeling it and experiencing its consistency. Only a very important detail cannot be perceived in first person: the sustainability of the raw materials used.

For the stuffing of our garments we have chosen for several seasons the Sorona Eco wadding certified by DuPont which offers a reduced dependence on fossil fuels and a limited environmental impact. The fibers of this wadding are 60% degradable and guarantee comfort, elasticity and softness to clothing.

Moreover, for our most fashionable garments we use an eco leather and an eco fur that give a brighter look to the outerwear and accessories, confirming once again more and more animal friendly.

Today it is however difficult to be able to totally control the origin of the garments producing without waste, for this reason we are working more and more in the search for new materials totally and / or partially recycled.

Sustainability for a brand is definitely a complex objective that includes various actions of responsibility by different parties but is certainly achievable.”

BECKY WILLAN, Given London
The McKinsey, State of Fashion Report, found 66% of consumers were willing to spend more on sustainable brands, however sustainable fashion represents just 1% of the entire industry. Fashion brands should make repairing easier than rebuying and increase resale opportunities. A more holistic approach in the value chain is needed to drive positive change, an inhouse team dedicated to sustainability would help this. The beauty industry, L’Oréal ties in sustainability and sales targets and offers a performance related bonus for managers on sustainable products.
www.givenlondon.com

Heiko Wunder, CEO Wunderwerk
The fashion industry is one of the largest polluting industries, with many ranking second after the oil industry.
In short, sustainability means thinking beyond this moment and taking humans, nature and the environment into account with the consequences of people’s actions.

So, it is obvious that something has to change. This applies to the clothing itself, but especially to the manufacturing processes, the dyeings, washes and finishes and packaging. If one imagines that e.g. If you can easily use more than 100 liters of water on a pair of jeans and 1 kg of chemicals can be used to make just a single pair of jeans, then you can easily imagine what the consequences are if in Germany alone about 110 million jeans are sold a year. The water and especially the chemical consumption of (raw) cotton before that process is not even included in that calculation. On top, at least for the transport, each piece is packaged into a plastic bag (“polybag”).

Most brands do not react until they realize that the end consumer has moved on. And that happens right now. Sustainability has arrived, not as a short trend, but long term because consumers now know that things can not go on like this. This is generally about sustainable cultivation and production methods, about the plastic and packaging consumption and also about the respectful treatment of humans, nature and animals.

At Wunderwerk, we use organic cotton right from the beginning and exclude toxic chemicals completely, which means that we do not even put them into circulation and therefore don’t have to filter them out afterwards. This also has the huge advantage that nature, rivers and workers do not even come into contact with these poisons, hazardous waste.
For our jeans, no toxic chemicals such as potassium permanganate or chlorine are used, we work extremely water and resource saving, so we generally have no Jaans with a water consumption of more than ten liters. Since one year we even have decresed our water consumption of dark washings from three to 0.70 liters, and the water is now completely recycled, so that the water is no longer consumed but needed – that is an enormous step that only works if brands and producers work very closely and have the same goals.

Wunderwerk was the first fashion brand to use the fiber “Modal Edelweiss” from Lenzing, Austria, because besides the very sustainable production, it is also made from “domestic” beech wood, ie even considered “regional”, while cotton and also regenerated fibers made of eucalyptus wood, the raw materials are procured from far away. Of course, regionality is also an important aspect, which is why the focus on manufacturing within the EU (approx. 70%) is miraculous.
Since 2010, I have looked into alternative packaging and so, since the first deliveries in 2013, we have been supplying all of our jeans unpacked but with an organic cotton tape and, since 2015, most of our T-shirts, sweatshirts and pullovers with a compostable cellulose film which is also resistant to water and heat. This is very important for the transport from the producer countries, even if though for Wunderwerk these are not the Far East countries but mostly countries such as Greece, Italy or Portugal.

ROBIN YATES, NOBIS
The environmental impact of fashion industry cannot be overlooked. It has been reported that the fashion industry accounts for 10% of the carbon emissions globally. Brands have the power, and the responsibility, to choose materials and products that have been manufactured in factories that control their carbon footprint. We all need to take responsibility of how garments are made and how long they last. We also need to think about what happens after we stop wearing them. We should not forget that there is still a lot of work to be done to improve the living and working conditions of garment workers. Issues related to labor conditions are persistent and brands need to be more diligent when it comes to creating humane, fair and safe working environments.

If brands won’t make the choice, the consumer will. Many consumers are choosing sustainable products and demand to know where and how the products are made. It has become pivotal for brands to build socially and environmentally responsible business models. We all need to do our part to drive a much-needed change in the fashion industry.

DAVID KARSTAD, Vice President Marketing + Creative Director POLARTEC, LLC.
For the fashion industry to truly address sustainability means taking the closed loop model to heart. Improved manufacturing efficiency, more attention to waste caused by over production, and lowering the footprint of our retail cycles are all key pieces to long term, systemic change for the better.

At Polartec, we’ve adopted this ‘whole system approach’ to sustainability that combines production methods, recycled inputs, and distribution efficiencies. This way we work towards a Triple Bottom Line objective for our products: use recycled or natural inputs; create durable and/or re-purposable products to extend lifecycle; develop full biodegradability for a product’s end of life.

As an industry, we must change what we mean by ‘natural resource.’ Natural fiber versus authentic fiber isn’t as clear of a choice as it seems, as the cost in resource (especially water) can outweigh the benefits of natural fibers, while synthetics have the greatest promise in regards to durability and recyclability. Balance, of course, is key. However, there’s a lot of new science being created with the potential to radically alter how we solve one the planets greatest challenges: the preponderance of post consumer/industrial plastic. This intractable problem of too much plastic may actually turn out to be what stimulates innovation of fibers, fabrics, and fashion itself.

As our society demands greater and greater accountability in how we use our resources, sustainability may well be the only viable go-forward business model for the fashion industry. Evolve or die. Literally.

Deborah Turner
Sustainability is an overused word, especially in marketing, it infers a lot and can mean so little. For example a mill can state that it has reduced its water consumption by 30%, but the question is what is the figure that it is 30% less than? And is that water coming from a sustainable source ? It would be more accurate to measure water consumption in litres used to make 1 metre of fabric and it would be better to have transparency of water use throughout the chain. Sustainability should be about ensuring we can sustain the infrastructure of life including plants animals and people without harming the environment in a fair and conscious manner I fear not all companies claiming sustainability are meeting this criteria.

The most important aspect is undoubtedly water, this planet needs it and it will run out if we as humans do not make some real changes. The industry has a major part to play in this and we need to look below the surface detail, the first step is to look at the source, where it is coming from and is it sustainable.  One aspect of water we rarely talk about is ‘grey water’ the fresh water we need to use to dilute the effluent before returning it to its natural state, this needs to be taken into the overall calculation of water use. At Vicunha we created a water project that identifies the use of water throughout the entire production chain, this has allowed us to focus our attention on areas where we can improve on water use. Of course reducing , re-using and recycling makes economic sense, they all go towards creating greater production efficiency.

ALBERTO
In the food sector, we have orientation labels or seals, so that the customer can make a well-considered purchase decision. But in the fashion industry there are so many aspects – how does the end consumer orient himself? The biggest sustainability aspect in our society is that everyone wants everything at the lowest price. But there are no sustainable jeans for 19EUR. Of course, there has to be a rethinking of society, but communication must be honest and authentic. Product recall is also an issue, because sustainability starts with purchasing and thus the right conditions have to be set between industry and commerce. Sustainability starts on a small scale: how much paper do I use, how much water – there is no end goal, but sustainability is a permanent process.
https://alberto-pants-usa.com

Patrick Duffy, FOUNDER, GLOBAL FASHION EXCHANGE
We are in a Climate Crisis caused in large part by the fashion industry so it should be strictly required that it protect the people and environment that power it.  The Fashion industry is complex and has many moving parts, all powered by people, most of whom live below the poverty line. Poverty and environmental issues go hand in hand, as environmental damage leads to decreased food production, improper human waste disposal and shortages of vital resources. Shifting the paradigm and creating an infrastructure that focuses on economic security and empowerment of people so that they can live healthy lives, support families, build communities, get access to tools that help them live in a healthy environment as well as survive increasing environmental disasters, will provide the foundation necessary to building a healthy supply/value chain and create a healthy business model for all.
http://www.globalfashionxchange.org

ENRICO ROSELLI, CEO, LA MARTINA
Actually sustainability is an issue that every one individual, company or government has to urgently address: many are saying that we are putting at risk our home planet, The Earth, but this is a misrepresentation because in fact we are putting at risk the conditions on this planet which make it possible for human beings to live on. It shouldn’t be regarded as a noble aspiration but rather an an urgent subject, related to our own survival.

When we hear the word “sustainability” we tend to think of renewable fuel sources, reducing carbon emissions, protecting environments, but it is in general the evaluation on how we can keep the delicate ecosystems of our planet in balance. In short, sustainability concerns how we can protect our natural environment, human and ecological health, while driving innovation and not compromising our way of life.

Also the fashion industry then should address this issue and in particular with respect to the negative effects caused by

–        Materials non eco-friendly

–        Treatments and dyeing processes

–        Transportation

–        Disposal of the products, production waste, etc

Actually I don’t think our business is one of the most serious causes non-sustainability or pollution, but as said everyone has to do something and thus fashion too. Moreover fashion has also a high capability of influencing people and this can lead to a faster pace to address this subject. For all these reasons, although we can’t be considered as a sustainable company, we are taking into consideration these matters.

It is good and bad at the same time that now this cause has attracted so much interest, since -being trendy to be enviromental friedly – companies are pushed to express or show that sensitivity, but sometimes it is very clear that it is just a facade and activities in this respect are done just to attract consumers’ attention (and consumption) but then empty in the substance.

Also, I must say that it is impossible today to be fully sustainable: but this shouldn’t be regarded as a reason not to start, each company has to start from something and then implement every day something more.

Another good thing is that sustainability sometime overlaps with being more efficient, reducing waste (of time, energy, material, etc), which is something that every company should seek besides or beyond their environment sensitivity.

In the end, then, our agenda provides:

–        Sourcing strategy which favors closer factories vs far and cheap ones (which gives us a better knowledge of their processes, quality but also shorter shipments)

–        Higher control over the factories we work with in order to use more and better those who prove to be more sustainable

–        Ongoing research on material and processes to impact less and less on the enviroment (however we are using 90% cotton which is per se eco compatible, but we have to deepen our knowledge on the origin of the same)

–        Development of more and more digital tools and interconnections among the different areas in the company to improve efficiency (avoid digital silos, implementing analytics, datasharing, AI)

Finally, all these subjects have actually an impact over the business models, but not just in terms of the communication and story telling (which represent also part of the strategy of a company), but also (with many negative effects in the short term) dis-intermediating many activities, creating a more direct contact between the company and the consumers, which also gives rise to a stronger feeling of social responsability (our fairplay campaign).

In this last respect we are quite active and this is not absolutely unrelated to the concept of sustainability, defined also as “the process of people maintaining change in a balanced environment, in which the exploitation of resources, the direction of investments, the orientation of technological development and institutional change are all in harmony and enhance both current and future potential to meet human needs and aspirations”. As you can appreciate this doesn’t relate just to the effects on the environment but to the final aim that the changes and innovation be done keeping our main values and conditions as human being.

We consider that the respect towards the other, fairness, loyalty are all values which are fundamental to preserve the mentioned harmony and balance, but also to ground an authentic respect of the environment

Tricia Carey, DIRECTOR OF GLOBAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, DENIM, LENZING:
The fashion industry needs to address sustainability. What does it mean exactly? What are the most important aspects of sustainability and why, and how can addressing them enhance a business model?

The apparel industry is looking at sustainability in a holistic way from fiber to finished garment to consumer use with consideration to environmental and social aspects.  Supply chain partners are developing collaborations supporting innovations to reduce environmental impact.  Starting with the right ingredients which reduce the impact on the environment, through waste reduction in supply chain to reduced environmental impact of consumer use and finally end of use options. Reduce, recycle, reuse is not just a clever phrase, but a way that apparel industry is evolving.

A great example of addressing sustainability are programs related to circularity, like TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell.  Brands like Kings of Indigo, Closed, DL1961, Boyish, Country Road, Levi’s and others are using TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell to bring textile to textile recycling to market.  TENCEL™ x REFIBRA, which is derived from cotton scraps to make a new lyocell fiber,  maintains the strength and aesthetics of original TENCEL™ Lyocell, as well as a fiber identification for transparency.

MARINA TESTINO, CREATIVE ENTREPRENEUR
The fashion industry needs to address sustainability – but what does it mean exactly? In your opinion, what are the most important aspects of sustainability and why, and how can addressing them enhance a business model?

Addressing sustainability requires rethinking the whole system of fashion, that is, fashion’s social, cultural, ecological and financial areas. For that, I understand all fashion’s stakeholders – i.e. citizens, public and private sectors – would have to reach an agreement on what sustainability implies. As of today, there is no governmental definition of sustainable fashion. Generally, it is regarded as an ethereal word, similar to a hotchpotch. Does it refer to ecological integrity? Alternative fashion systems? Sustainably made products? Social justice? Actually, it comprises all of these. We just need to sit down and find the checks and balances between all the fashion industry’s areas. To me, sustainability is a balancing act. Following the United Nations 87’s Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development, “sustainable development meets the needs of the present without comprising the well-being of future generations”. With this in mind, I would say that to address sustainability in the fashion industry we shall rethink its system and make it more balanced.

In order to rethink the fashion industry’s systems we require structural and transparent modifications, starting with consumer’s education and information. Consumers need education to make informed choices while purchasing new clothes. Once this is tackled, the industry itself would need to reassess its production practices in terms of social justice, products, systems, productivity, ecological integrity, waste management, textiles, financial processes, but most importantly, liabilities. Governments’ push the industry with their regulations but no one is telling consumers, actual leaders of the industry’s practices, what to do or choose. If the demand of clothes increases, the industry’s offer will also increase to cover those requests (requests, that of course, imply economic opportunities for manufacturers, brands, etc.). We need to reserve that. Start again. Or in other words, be able to properly address sustainable fashion not as a trend but as business model that sustainable in all its aspects: social, cultural, ecological and financial.

Choosing which aspects of sustainability are most relevant represents a dilemma for the industry, consumers and even myself. What is more important and/or urgent, for instance, addressing social justice and ethical production practices or the industry’s water consumption, carbon footprint or waste management? The answer to this, again, seems linked to finding the checks and balances between all areas: creating an industry able to provide sustainably produced products, ethically made, being economically-sustainable and profitable. How? That’s even more complicated as we cannot start from scratch. Therefore? The implementation of strategic and structural modifications on the industry’s current business models is key. I believe the most relevant aspects regarding sustainability integration into business models include, among others, consumers and organisations’ values, investment in R+D and new technologies, internationalisation processes and, most importantly, binding corporate and social responsibility rules. To reach a consensus on how to integrate all these aspects naturally, we require a social agreement between all drivers influencing sustainability: governments, regulatory and markets pressures, value creation and innovation, equity, authenticity, functionality, localism and exclusivity.

At this point is when I ask myself: can the fashion industry ever really be sustainable? If all parties involved have a clear call to action, the answer should be YES. Here is where, again, all industries stakeholders’ have to play their parts. New generations (GZs particularly) are currently demanding for those changes. And consumers are always right, no? That’s why we are starting to see new trends promoting sustainable resource management, design for sustainability, cleaner production and resource efficiency, sustainable transport, eco-labelling, sustainable procurement, sustainable marketing, sustainable lifestyle, waste management, etc. But that’s not enough. The fashion industry can no longer wait for consumers’ shifts, the change needs to be brought from the inside to be real. I believe there is hope if all start making changes. Of course, this is my personal opinion but what’s clear to me is that neither ‘fashion victims’ nor polluting our planet shall ever be in fashion.

#WeSeaThrough!

ANDREAS BREIFELD
Just the idea of writing a sentence including the words fashion and sustainability seems like a contradiction within itself. Yes indeed, sustainability has become fashionable but sustainable fashion? Could supporting a fair produced,  ecological piece “spark more  joy” – as cleaning expert Marie Kondo would say – than a less sustainable counterpart? My answer is yes, if you are part of the process. Our industry has been trying way to long to match the foodprint of the direct retailing giants, turning pieces, in between collections etc have been an desperate  approach to persuade an widely oversaturated consumer to take again a little bit more. We need to explain the consumer, why we do what we do and make them part of the process. Look at our heritage and connect to the future. If necessary adapt your sources, rise your prices and provide an open calculation. But Most of all, communicate, share your thoughts and be honest with the consumer. They realize anyway when you try to greenwash, and they will turn away. Therefore make them part of the journey, explain your choices and most important, get into a dialogue if you want to stay.

ASOS – JANINA
Textile is not sustainable. No matter how hard we try, it is a dirty business. The textile industry has a huge impact on the environment and climate: according to a study, it was responsible for 5 to 10 percent of global pollution in 2016- and about 8 percent of global climate impacts. Let’s not fool ourselves. It is most sustainable NOT to consume.

Precisely for this reason, we as one industry must consider how we can become more sustainable and how we set common standards that at least go in the right direction.

We should try the burden on the environment, animals and humans as low as possible. Together we have to push this as industry and the big player first.

Not only the costumer has to demand or ask for it, that we have to change, we also have to change by ourselves and communicate the importance of the topic to the costumer.

We have to look at the production and its conditions for the human being. In addition, the environmental impact and pollution is an massiv issue but also the use of resources.

I see faster renewable materials that consume less water in focus, such as Tencil and Hemp.

Organic Cotton and similar are not an option in the long term. For 1kg of cotton, an average of around 11.000 liters of water is needed worldwide! That’s 256 km3 of water every year. This amount is enough to supply all people with 120 liters of fresh water per day. Organic cotton needs less but still very and permanently too much, apart from the huge plantation fields that are needed and for wich the forest are cleared.

When we look at synthetic fibers, many of those are made of oil as raw material. Even water- based PU’s , that are called as environment friendly, still consume a large amount of water.

So one thing is to see how we handle the resources and the processing and production to keep the pollution load down.

Then, of course, an elementary aspect is the working and living conditions of the people in the producing countries, as well as the impact on their health. The desire for abundance and dumping in the Western World has had and still has devastating consequences.

With generation Now we are faced with a new challenge. This generation is used to get everything it sees and wants immediately. So how do we fulfill this need and remain relevant to the customer without inciting the ever-shrinking cycle of a product and thus the waste and mass consumption.

So if we produce products with lower impact, the water and CO2 balance as well as the chemical pollution of groundwater and soil will be driven upwards by the increased amount of consumption.

Thirty years ago, you bought a product of the same category 1-2 times a year. Today, the customer wants a new outfit for every new weekend party.

I am convinced that there is a lot of potential in product sharing and product leasing. In big cities, car sharing and Co are already a thing since years and can no longer be imagined. Many do not need and do not want their own car, their entire costs, but in the same time, always have one available, when they need it.

This can and will be transferred to other products. The resell scene in streetwear, but also with luxury brands in Gen Now is growing and growing and enjoying increasing popularity. You have a coveted product, wear it 2-3 month and than you are bored and want something new. To afford this, you (need to) sell the old.

The products hardly lose value because they are on the market in small quantities, are well maintained and have good quality. We should take advantage of these trends. To offer the customer the cycle and thereby also take away the trouble of trading by yourself.

We already have platforms like Stock X and Klekt. New platforms for leasing products are also emerging. Here I see the future. You have a virtual wardrobe that is filled with new items and you can lease those for a month. Or you pay a monthly fee ( membership etc) and serve you from the wardrobe no matter what article.

One one hand, products are worn longer and used, it thus longer in circulation and less quantity must be in the market. In addition, then the brands are required to make a product more durable and higher quality. If these are than more environmentally friendly and produced with full transparency, we are on the right path.

JAMIE MARGOLIN, FOUNDER, ZEROHOUR
The most important aspect of sustainability is stopping the mindset of constant consumption. You can make a product as “eco-friendly” as possible but if you market it with the same consumeristic “you need to BUY MORE MORE MORE” you are still causing damage to the earth. The truth is the most sustainable fashion is simply not buying anything that you don’t need. The new business model for sustainable fashion needs to NOT be based on constant growth and a constant increase in profit at all times. The culture of constantly “needing” new clothes when we don’t actually NEED it needs to end, no matter what material the clothes are made out of
thisiszerohour.org

STAMO, MBA FRSA, Founder, Ecoluxe London
Our legacy to our children is a  paradise destroyed by previous generations.

Part of the problem is the second most polluting industry after oil (WTO, 2018) : The fashion industry where a piece of fabric produced in Africa is shipped to Asia for processing and sold all over the world.

The work sustainability exists as a term since the late 80’s (sustainable growth) and ethical and later sustainable fashion since mid-90’s.

Fashion is all about design and Ecoluxe London has defined sustainable fashion as  the  creation  of a  fashionable  item,  always   taking  into  consideration  the  most  appropriate  combination   of  social,  environmental  and  financial  parameters at  any  given  time.

In simple words,  Sustainable   fashion  is  all  about  People  –  Planet  – Profit

Minimal  carbon  footprint,  renewable  sources,  respect of  traditional crafts  & customs,  reinforcement  of  local  economy: we believe in a clear ‘corporate consciousness’  and a responsible approach to the whole supply chain, where a company  considers  all the above parameters per product and the end users their consumption and product life cycle: A win-win situation for our planet.

ISKO
Our strategy of continuous improvement relies on a holistic, mindful approach to Responsible Innovation™, which is based on three pillars – creativity, competence and citizenship – and extends to our culture and systems.

We look at water consumption as well as chemicals, dyestuffs, and eco-toxicity measures and we have an Environmental Management System in place, certified to an international standard. We have obtained Life-Cycle Assessments (LCAs) for all our 25,000+ denim products and certified Environmental Product Declarations (EPD®s). These allow our customers to make responsible sourcing choices and led to the creation of independently devised Product Category Rules (PCR).

ISKO Earth Fit™ is our top-end denim collection, the only one worldwide awarded both EU Ecolabel and Nordic Swan Ecolabel. We have also developed a recycling strategy, recently implemented with the launch of the R-TWO™ platform, which includes fabrics with a mix or blend of reused cotton from production loss and recycled polyester from PET bottles.
https://iskodenim.com

SARAH DITTY, POLICY DIRECTORY, FASHION REVOLUTION
In practice this means considering the way clothing is designed; what materials are used; how those materials are sourced; how clothing is manufactured; who is involved in these processes and what economic and working conditions they are facing; how products are transported across the world; how quickly we are consuming and discarding our clothes; how we look after our clothes; what happens when we dispose of them; what resources and chemicals are used or emitted in these processes and so much more.

The science is clear. We have very few years to mitigate the most disastrous consequences of climate breakdown. Therefore it’s a business imperative to address sustainability. It’s literally about future survival of the industry and ourselves.

FRIEDERIKE VON WEDEL-PARLOW, FOUNDER, BENEFICIAL DESIGN INSTITUTE, BERLIN
Sustainability for me, is about enriching and embellishing the world and not only about efficiency and sufficiency. Fashion is an incredibly powerful tool – every 6th person worldwide is working in fashion and textiles including all stages from field to retail. If we would turn all these jobs into fruitful and supportive ones, imagine how we could change the lives of all these people and their communities for the better. The fashion industry today is one of the biggest climate-killers. Instead, fashion could contribute positively to the biosphere by using clean and healthy ingredients, energy and processes.

Let’s envision fashion to be the result of intelligent and healthy circular systems and beneficial design that profits everyone and everything involved. A system that creates positive effects for people and environment with responsible growth for all businesses which are part of this transformative change.

LIA KES CARMI BERMAN, FOUNDER, KES
At KES, sustainability means being mindful of the impact we have on the earth. We utilize eco-friendly practices in our manufacturing by recycling garments, using biodegradable materials, and partnering with local plant-based dyers. Our clothes are meant to reflect a lifestyle – not just the latest trend. Each of our pieces can be worn confidently in different locations and circumstances. By creating clothes that are both eco-friendly and timeless, we embed sustainability into the very core of our collection, and encourage thoughtful consumerism. Our mindful production enables us to provide women with clothes that will serve them well and can be worn with pride. KES offers a collection that unites style with spirituality, creating pieces that our clients can connect to on a deeper level. By revolutionizing how women relate to our brand, we ultimately enhance our business. Women who wear KES create a measurable change within our world.
https://kesnyc.com

Yana Chervinska, Founder of the clothing brand Yana Chervinska and the first platform of conscious fashion in Ukraine Sustainable Fashion Pad
The fashion industry needs to address sustainability, but what does it mean exactly? What are the most important aspects of sustainability and why, and how can addressing them enhance a business model?

Sustainable development issues need to be addressed not only to the fashion industry, but also to any business, organization, social movement or festival – this is the future. Many brands, from fast and affordable fashion to luxury conglomerates, are starting to launch special areas of sustainability and open information about the production and logistics to consumers. The flow is no longer possible to stop. For me, the most important moment of sustainability begins with work with the consumer and his/her education. By bringing to consumers information about the dangers of production and the disposal of cheap and low-quality clothes that wear out quickly, we will change the very approach to the consumption. The sustainability factor is becoming increasingly important for business. Here, I will quote The Blueprint “Fastcompany.com website gives optimistic figures: 75% of buyers in five countries (USA, Great Britain, China, France and Brazil) called sustainability a major factor for fashion apparel manufacturers. (The Nosto online sales platform report shows that if 52% of American and British users talk about the importance of ethical fashion, only 29% are ready to buy eco-friendly clothing)“

Olga Johnston Antonova, sustainable fashion consultant, educator and journalist. Founder of Circular Fashion Russia and Ecostyle360, co-creator of SustainYourStyle, board member of Global Sustainble Fashion Week.
To understand sustainability in fashion you need to think of a garment not as a product but as a process and consider its full life cycle and how it affects people and environment at every stage: from sourcing raw materials to manufacturing, transportation, retail, user–  and “end of use” stages. Ideally, every step must be carried out ethically and ecologically – in harmony with people and nature – and produce economic and social prosperity.

For retail it means to:

– stock sustainable and ethical brands

– reduce the amount of plastic and packaging material

– use and reuse eco friendly packaging

– use “green” transport and energy

– introduce size–measuring technologies for perfect fit

– use wardrobe inventory technologies to help customer upgrade their wardrobe

– introduce clothes takeback for resale, upcycling and recycling

– provide mending and repair

– stock ecofriendly care and laundry products

– enable customers to design own clothes

– sell virtual outfits

– become a place where “shoppers” consume experiences, create and connect IRL

Seth Ellison, EVP and President of Europe Levi’s
As consumers become more conscious, corporate responsibility and sustainability have to be at the top of our agenda. Our ‘Waterless’ products and our new ‘Future Finish’ laser technology are great examples from a much longer list. Fit innovation will always be critical, just as it was from the beginning of our company. The high-rise ‘Ribcage Jean’ has been a real hit for women, as well as a platform to reach young, fashion-forward consumers
https://www.levi.com/

Denim continues to be one of fashion’s key markets, even though it has faced multiple struggles in recent years. For this special issue, WeAr has asked some of the world’s key denim insiders, including both young and established brands, fabric and fiber manufacturers, finishing specialists, denim retailers and trade show executives, what the industry could do in order to return denim to its former glory. Some answers were so detailed and fascinating that we have created a special page on our website to reflect the richness of ideas proposed by our interviewees.

_________________

FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD, CO-FOUNDER AND OWNER, MARITHE + FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD

Aside from the above, I have also been asked these questions for decades:
-What will replace the denim industry?
-What will replace jeans in our everyday lives in the coming years?

Jeans are the most popular item of clothing in the modern history of fashion: 6 billion pairs are produced annually worldwide. It takes 5,678 litres of water to grow the cotton to make a single pair of jeans + 70 litres to wash each pair. Let’s not forget the insecticides of the worldwide production is used by cotton growers, or the chemicals used to wash and artificially age the jeans some of the most toxic that exist. I’ve been speaking about these facts and figures for years now, most of the industry will know them off by heart now.

We all know that petroleum derivatives, among other things, are not biodegradable. Do we want to create a continent of plastic floating on the ever-rising tides or add to the mountains of indestructible throwaway clothing? So, what are the alternatives? What resources will replace cotton or can be integrated into the existing supply chain: beans, stones, nuts, plants, stones, minerals, plants?

How are we going to be able to clothe the inhabitants of our planet and which country and workforce are we going exploit next to improve profits?

We keep going back to cotton, which, for all its faults, inspires us. It tells great stories about adventures in the open air, bikers, campers, guitars and Cadillacs… everything we’ve always wanted.

We can continue to believe that the solution is to use buzzwords such as recycling, organic, circular economy, transparency and traceability to ease our consciences. But we know all too well that we don’t have much time left and that the next generations will have to deal with the mess we leave behind!

As designers, brands, an industry, we have to accept responsibility for what we do and the message we communicate. There are no excuses today, everyone has to be held to account. The creative possibilities of jeans as a product are enormous, but I can’t envisage any real change coming from an industry in full transformation. The big fashion houses are all eager to embrace street culture and the youth market. Sneakers and jeans are part of this package, but not innovation.

Jeans have been endlessly transformed, from workwear to streetwear to luxury wear. I believe my responsibility as a designer is to create garments with long-lasting appeal that will stand the test of time and endless successions of short-lived trends. To this end, I’m working on re-establishing the practice of constructing garments to flatter the body through innovative and precise cuts, and the development of a new generation of sustainable fabrics. I’ve developed environmentally friendly methods such as the Watt Wash to reduce the negative impact of the production of jeans on the planet and the people working in the denim treatment industry. We now have revolutionary laser technology to allow us to endlessly transform denim without destroying the planet; the only limitation is our creativity.

Modern techniques made by hand still applies to our work and we should never forget that the forefront of technology is the human touch. Our clothes are made with love for life. I don’t know about denim’s glory days, but I would like to come full circle and make workwear for today, adapted to our urban lifestyles. Jeans are no longer indicators of social class, generation, or signs of protest, they’ve become a uniform for all, from baby boomers to Generation Z.
www.girbaud.com

_________________

MARK WERTS, FOUNDER, CEO, AMERICAN RAG CIE

Decline in denim.  Many years ago, I shared what I thought to be a brilliant entrepreneurial idea with a multi-millionaire, a used clothing dealer called Jim Johnson, based in Brownsville, Texas. Jim always had a toothpick in his mouth. I explained my idea to this extremely successful man, and he was skeptical but pondered a bit and then replied to me in a strong Texan drawl: “Ah shit Mark, anything’s good if ya do it good.”

Denim is fine. There is no decline. Here at American Rag Cie, we’re experiencing robust sales of denim and denim-related products. Anyone that isn’t “doing it good” is in decline. Denim is a white canvas that depends on the artist who is painting on it. Paint beautifully. “DO IT GOOD!” F**k decline.

P.S. I just checked our denim sales, both men’s and women’s. We are single digit in both categories. We have experienced ZERO decline in 2019. I don’t buy into self-fulfilling prophecies.
https://americanrag.com

_________________

RUDY BUDHDEO, CEO, SON OF A STAG, LONDON

We are still doing extremely well with denim probably because our choice is much greater than other retailers and we have a huge selection covering all style wishes to the widest choices in sizes & lengths up to 41″ inside leg. It is important to give the very best choice in the market place & show total confidence when buying and presenting. Our staff are dedicated to having the best product knowledge because the consumer is now much more aware about manufacturing processes & we are able to offer strong knowledge how the fabric will evolve, shrink and fade.

We offer free of charge shortening on the original chain stitch machine on the spot and can even make other denim tailoring adjustments including taking in the waist, moving pockets, tapering from inseam with top stitch and meaning the selvedge is unaffected. We also have a huge choice of denim shirts and jackets in additions to the jeans category. We study our customers’ wishes and make the impossible possible. A lot of customers know that we have unique fittings on much of the stock we carry so that the same model they buy from us will fit differently if they try it at another retailers somewhere else in the world – we often have the styles recreated with adjustments in particular with the rise of the jeans and taper gradings. This means that we have to do bigger minimum orders and pay extra to our suppliers, but we have learnt it is much better to have the perfect product. It is great to also have brands which have very select distribution that include Smith-Sato-Suzuki and our own brand Soldier Blue London. This way our customers are super loyal.
www.sonofastag.com
www.soldieblue.co.uk

_________________

JEFFREY RUDES, CO-FOUNDER, J BRAND AND CEO L’AGENCE

Why a downturn in denim? We are missing newness. New fabrics, finishes and fits are what are needed. Regarding style, I wouldn’t change a 5-pocket classic to a fashion jean. I think the consumer always identifies with a 5-pocket. It’s familiar, reliable and she trusts them. Denim jeans are soft right now although color, print and coated finishes are doing extremely well. Today you need to be innovative and create new treatments and textures. L’Agence has everything that is working, which is why our denim business is substantially ahead of plan and why we are a leading brand in premium denim.
www.lagencefashion.com

_________________

ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED, PRESIDENT, HOUSE OF GOLD

I totally feel that if denim is not cool right now is almost entirely our responsibility as we have made important strategic mistakes. For many years we have been fighting for sustainability, for changes within the production cycle, from cotton to indigo, to the dyeing system and obviously the finishing. We have been pushing the envelope to the limit with innovation and technology and we honestly achieved substantial and remarkable results. The fact is that we totally forgot about and underestimated the value of design, creativity and new communication ideas. This is what makes jeans an object of desire. We should be learning from sneakers, bring back new ideas and creativity and be brave!
www.houseofgold.la

_________________

SEBASTIAN KLINDER, MANAGING DIRECTOR AND OWNER, MUNICH FABRIC START EXHIBITIONS GMBH

Driven by the disruptive millennium, we will soon see an evolution in denim which will be similar to what we have seen recently in sneakers, athletic gear and urbanwear among others. This will require the involvement of technological discoveries, starting with alternative raw materials new fibers mostly of sustainable origin; or high-performance innovations, such as carbon or conductive end uses. Denim is becoming inherently more performance-oriented, with garments offering climate control features, or worn as protective items for urban mobility. Designers are already embracing new practices and techniques which make jeans smarter and more wearable. Automation will play an essential role in the jeans manufacturing process.

Combined with new ethics and environmental rules, which demand more responsible means of production and manufacturing, we will see an increase in the range of treatments created with almost zero impact. We are about to experience a brand new, brave blue world let’s enjoy it.
www.munichfabricstart.com

_________________

FATIH DOGAN, GENERAL MANAGER, CALIK DENIM

We are currently in a price-oriented market for denim due to the sector receiving significant investment, resulting in surplus capacity and subsequently high costs and prices. The strategies we believe to be key to reinvigorating the denim market and moving away from this price-led approach are as follows.

Firstly, we need to focus on product differentiation, including value-added and sustainable products, as well as prioritizing investment in research and development. For product differentiation, it’s vital to expand the uses for denim beyond the fashion industry. In terms of production and distribution strategies, sustainability is hugely important to move denim into the future, responding to the changing demands of the consumers and the planet itself.

Then, in terms of communication strategies, we believe in the power of collaboration, both within and outside the sector; providing the power to act and communicate together, to help drive change and create a wider impact both within and beyond the denim industry by working with universities, brands and developing non-profit initiatives.
http://calikdenim.com

_________________

ENRIQUE SILLA, CEO, JEANOLOGIA

I wouldn’t say that denim is living difficult times. It is true that we are facing overproduction, but consumers still love authentic blue jeans. To build a brighter future, and to sustain the blue jean legend, in Jeanologia we are working hard on 3 concepts:

-A complete elimination of water and toxic chemistry on 100% of global jeans production. Our aim is to dehydrate and detox the global jeans production by 2025. If as an industry we achieve this goal, the new generation will understand that we are still rebels and will be proud to wear jeans.

-Making mass customization a reality on blue jeans through laser technologies.

-Introducing a new sourcing model that combines production in low-cost labor, duty-free zones and finishing near the consumer in America, Europe, China and Japan. All of this is already possible thanks to technologies.

For the first time in history we have the necessary technology that allows us to make short and fast series, making it possible to produce what sells instead of selling what is produced.
www.jeanologia.com

_________________

GUGLIELMO OLEARO, DIRECTOR, DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION

Despite the macro analysis showing a continuous growth in the denim market, the contingent situation is difficult for most of the actors. The market is more fluid than ever and the needs of the customers are evolving faster than in the past. On the other hand, denim clearly has an incredible appeal, considering its presence in almost all the [fashion] collections, the growing amount of new denim brands and the fact that is considered a pioneer element in the sustainable textile improvement.

The big challenge is to transfer to the new generations of denim lovers all the values behind the denim brand. We need to focus on the PRODUCT and re-build knowledge around it. Collaboration within the value chain is paramount, along with a comprehensive and transparent vision. This is one of the key targets of Denim Premiere Vision too: we focus on responsible fashion collaborations and on share of knowledge.

Actions:
-connect and collaborate to analyze, define and share best practices in order to improve the quality along all the value chain.
-increase the standard of true responsibility in all the segments of the value chain.
www.denimpremierevision.com

_________________

TRACEY TAN, CO-OWNER, QUEEN’S COUTURE / THE DENIM STORE, SINGAPORE

We have seen the denim business go through a challenging period in the past couple of years. We also see many brands digging back in their archives and reproducing exact replicas of the past. It is not a bad thing to look back to get inspiration. However, as a retailer and in order to get customers excited again, we hope to see new silhouettes with vintage fabrics, details, construction, etc.; or past silhouettes with a modern take on fabric and other innovations to suit the modern lifestyle.
https://thedenimstore.com.sg

_________________

GORDON GIERS, CEO, CLOSED

Denim currently has big chances in terms of ecological improvements as there are innovations strong enough to really make a big step forward in terms of more sustainable jeans. At Closed we started our Eco Denim line ‘A Better Blue’ three seasons ago. By now, many of our denim competitors are also using sustainable fabric developments from Candiani or other mills. But we’re doing the entire process, 360 degrees [in a sustainable way]. We are using fabrics from Candiani that are recycled or at least organic cotton. We’re sewing the line in Italy. And we are washing it, obviously, in Italy, with our long-term partner Everest. We’ve developed washing techniques that are outstanding and, I think, very unique. ‘A Better Blue jeans probably have the lowest possible impact on the environment.

We wanted to create a sustainable product that has the same aesthetic as the conventional jeans in our collection. So we tried really to get at least the same result in terms of the washings, in terms of the fabrics. They look the same but are so much more sustainable.
www.closed.com

_________________

FABRIZIO CONSOLI, FOUNDER AND CEO, BLUE OF A KIND

My impression is that a certain change the denim industry has suffered is here to stay. A market polarization is underway: on one side we are flooded by mass products meant to last a season or two; on the other, denim is increasingly becoming a premium item, what vinyl represents for music as a big player in the industry told me recently.

Technology is definitely key to instigating a change from a sustainability standpoint, nowadays an indispensable attribute. Nonetheless, we all feel the cultural clash in using science and progress to produce antique visual effects and finishes.

So now more than ever a change in perspective is needed. We must flip the way people relate to jeans, bringing back the love story consumers once had with them. We need to narrate the product to highlight the uniqueness every pair gains with time, in a one-to-one relationship with its owner.
www.blueofakind.com

_________________

JASON DENHAM, FOUNDER, DENHAM

Denim has always been great, and it will stand the test of time because there is no cloth like it. Denim’s roots are in quality: it is hard-wearing, versatile, durable and since the 1850s this cloth has evolved to become the highest performance, most technical and sustainable fabric you can wear.

We are in a new era of communication, product life cycle and consumer habits. The denim industry is still as dynamic as it always was. There are more players now from the high street, the big online channels, the brands and the catwalk, and everyone is doing denim in their own way. Production, distribution and communication have never stopped evolving over the last 50 years and right now we are in a peak of change. Sustainability is at the core of every denim manufacturer’s priorities list, and rightly so. Online sales have transformed the distribution landscape and communication is digital. Embrace it; never stand still.
www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

_________________

MENNO VAN MEURS, CEO, TENUE DE NÎMES

The first and most important thing we need to do to get denim back on top of the game is to quickly step away from the idea that denim can be something cheap, or worse; something disposable. Let’s put denim back where it belongs: the strong and durable center point of our wardrobe. The future of fashion is about consuming less but better. Well-made jeans should be considered the bright future of our industry. Denim is the only thing we actually appreciate becoming older. Jeans are the sexiest, most versatile and personal garment out there. Let’s consider jeans as workwear again: 21st century workwear. Anyone should choose one pair, invest in it, wear it, love it, repair it and love it even more. To me, well-made and honestly produced jeans are the perfect start of a new paradigm in clothing: buy less and pay more! Wear jeans!
https://tenuedenimes.com

_________________

FATIH KONUKOGLU, CEO, ISKO DIVISION

Isko we don’t feel that denim is having a difficult time right now.

This is perhaps because two of our core brand pillars are innovation and citizenship. Our Research and Development center is the heartbeat of Isko, located at our headquarters. Here, a team of physicists, chemists, biologists, mathematicians and textile engineers work to solve real consumer problems and needs, in order to impact people’s lives in a positive way. As a result of this, we are continuously bringing new products onto the market, keeping our offer fresh and exciting.

An example is our Isko Vulcano finish. This is a new laser friendly finish that delivers natural, denimy, clear effects in laser applications. It eliminates the need for dry and chemical processing, making production faster and more efficient in terms of energy used. So, we can safely say that ISKO Vulcano is both beautiful and responsible.
https://iskodenim.com

_________________

JORDAN NODARSE, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BOYISH JEANS

I believe denim is having a re-birth actually. Manufacturers, brands, and even consumers are now opening their eyes to the extensive supply chain behind denim and its impact on humans and mother earth. I think the most change that needs to happen is within brands though. Manufacturers have had the technology for a more sustainable supply chain for a long time but the brands are too focused on reducing their costs for a higher profit margin because they know that they cannot sell all their goods at full price. That is a ridiculously backwards way of thinking.

If brands look at their impact and deliver a clear message of true transparency all the way to the farms that produce the fiber that goes into their fabrics, they will see that their consumers care more about their products and put a higher value on them. After all, 60% of a jeans impact comes from the fabric, 30% from laundry and CMT, then 10% to the remaining trim and other items on it. So, the most impact one can make is with their fabrics.

However, just make sure you certify and audit your supply chain with professionals. There are a lot of lies going on out there. For instance, only 0.5% of the worlds cotton is actually truly organic. Oh, and stop using recycled plastic in every day garments that get washed and dyed extensively. Micro fiber shedding is a real thing and a huge problem. These microplastics are ending up inside our stomachs and there is already eight billion tons of it in the oceans. So, if you’re a brand, stop trying to take short cuts by putting abnormal amounts of recycled polyester or nylon into your garments. Even if you take ocean plastic and make it into recycle fiber, thats not a solution. The plastic is still ending up back in the ocean but this time it’s more damaging!
https://boyish-jeans.com

_________________

TSUYOSHI NOGUCHI, DIRECTOR, MINEDENIM

In recent years the Japanese denim industry has been quite saturated. MINEDENIM which launched during the A/W 16 season thinks of itself not as a denim brand but rather a brand where standard and innovation coexist. We tend to limit the details and focus on the beauty of silhouettes. One of our strengths is that we own our factory in Okayama prefecture, a place internationally renowned for denim manufacturing. Thus we can guarantee the quality of the fabric, finishing and techniques. Naturally, the price point is higher compared to China and Vietnam; however, we believe that the price is justified for the quality. We’ve been collaborating with fabric mills to reduce the environmental impact during the washing process. By honing our production process and schedule we have managed to limit their waste as well.
https://minedenim.jp

_________________

DEBORAH TURNER, MARKETING AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, VICUNHA

The denim industry needs to keep pushing for more transparency throughout the whole production chain and bring more information to the customer about the products they are buying. This market is driven primarily by price, but sustainability needs to be seen as equally important. I am always astonished how little the end consumer actually knows about the sustainability of the products they buy, I think we can improve greatly on this with better, clearer marketing.

We will always refer back to the heritage of denim but we need to look forward to a new era. There is always a cycle of fashion and denim has its highs and lows, it has however over time broadened in category and now comes is many more guises.

We need to move forward and face the challenges of change, embrace new yarns, technologies and production methods to meet the needs and wants of the future consumer.
www.vicunha.com.br

_________________

DANIEL GRIEDER, CEO, TOMMY HILFIGER GLOBAL AND PVH EUROPE

Tommy first got into fashion by selling bell-bottoms from the back of an old VW van when he was 16, so denim has been a timeless staple at the core of our classic American cool DNA from the start. But we are always evolving, and our strength has come from experimenting with innovation, sustainability and customization techniques that consumers are looking for and that are essential to the future of our industry.

We all share a responsibility to manufacture products in a more thoughtful way. At our Product Innovation Center in Amsterdam we are setting new standards for producing denim styles using techniques that can reduce water, energy and chemical consumption by up to 70%. We work with best-in-class partners and state-of-the-art equipment on-site to refine our processes and further push the boundaries of our denim collections. The Center also allows us to experiment with innovative fabric and finishing techniques in real time without needing to send samples back and forth between vendors. Only by continuing to fuel this important discussion through transparency and the sharing of best practices can we drive our industry forward for good.
www.tommy.com

_________________

REINHARD HAASE, CEO, UNIFA GROUP

In the past, retailers looked out for new denim products and developments in trade shows, but today, fairs are no longer visited as much as showrooms, and even there retailers only really look at brands with which they have pre-scheduled appointments. Take True Religion: multiple retailers still associate the brand with thick seams and therefore categorically reject it [even though the brand has moved on]. Buyers have to travel more and become curious again. As someone who has been in the business for so long and has worked as a retailer with Jades, as well as a producer, distributor and agent, I can also say that denim has cycles and we are now at a stage where the customer wants new qualities. But that’s not unusual; we’ve gone through these stages several times. That’s called a trend. We sell denim well, more for women than men, because there are too few good men’s retailers, but the hype for the blue fabric is missing it must be pushed again.
https://unifa-fashion.com

_________________

MARCO LANOWY, MANAGING DIRECTOR, ALBERTO

Denim works through new brands or those that are always reinventing themselves. Just a new wash is no longer the core business of denim. We have success with our Premium Business Jeans, but they are often not displayed adequately on the retail floor. Why is there hardly a super denim world in retail? Most denim floors in stores look the same throughout the year and do not create any new impulses.
https://www.alberto-pants.com

_________________

AGOSTINO POLETTO, GENERAL MANAGER, PITTI IMMAGINE

The jeans industry is showing clear signs of dynamism and positive evolutions that we will see more and more in the coming seasons. We are following with great attention the new phenomena involving the denim world: big brands and denim players are undoubtedly demonstrating their stylistic strengths, a series of innovative efforts in terms of marketing and communication, and all these movement are creating a lot of new buzz towards denim and revamping sales, also among young generations. In fact, I see that younger consumers are crucial in leading the most prominent changes in these field. Among the drivers of the evolution I see fashion collaborations – which are becoming a strategic tool to target new consumers and create new interest around a brand and its style. And another strong current is related to high-tech customisation options: features that could enlarge the possibilities for the consumers and the occasions for them to be dressed in denim. Actually, we have in mind denim-focused projects for the next editions of Pitti Uomo: we all love denim and in fact it is one of the most versatile and fashionable fabric, able to add a very contemporary and fresh attitude to your style.
www.pittimmagine.com

_________________

FRANCO CATANIA, CEO, GIADA S.P.A.

Giada has always adopted a certified, eco-sustainable policy for the realization of its products, from denim dyeing, which occurs with natural indigo color, to washes that employ reduced quantities of pumice stone and water, which is later recycled. In addition to this, Giada has developed the ˜Ice Finishing system a few years ago: an eco-friendly washing process carried out with the use of ice. The Bronte plant is our success story. All energy is self-produced, and 60% of total water is recycled through water purifiers. All this allows our jeans to have a lower business impact. With Hand Picked we also try to develop intelligent sample sets, avoiding warehouse overloads with goods to be disposed of.
www.giadafc.it
www.handpicked.it

_________________

KRIS PARK, CEO, SIWY DENIM

When you are facing a slower growth in your industry, do not panic. Denim is like life, it has its ups and downs¦ but it is also timeless, and everyone always comes back to it.

In those difficult times, the most important decision to make is to never compromise on the quality of the product you are offering to your customers. Always search for the best fabrics, develop the best washes, techniques etc.

It is also fundamental to constantly offer novelties and fashion pieces to your customers, to remind everyone that denim is not only a basic outfit that you keep in your closet forever, but also a strong fashion item that adapt to the trends and sometime create them. You must take risks; however, you shall always follow your initial DNA. That is what we do at Siwy, and this year we are celebrating our 15^th Anniversary.

Finally, living in a world of competition, where denim (among other apparel products) is offered in many places at very low prices, It is essential to communicate directly with your customers, and to educate them about your product, Its origin, Its manufacturing process..

Why your denim is different? Where is it from? how is it made, the quality of the fit, the work, the efforts, the ethics, and the people behind your product. Those are the values that it is imperative to share with the world.
www.siwydenim.com

WeAr has been covering sustainable developments in fashion for years. To celebrate the magazine’s 60^th issue, we have revisited our archives and selected some key articles that feature green projects from the last 26 issues. 

WeAr No. 34

HAIKURE: SMART ECO-PANTS
Italian eco-fashion brand Haikure is experiencing rapid growth. Sales have jumped 50%, export markets now include five countries and 150 stores, and the collection sellout rate is up to 85%. The label offers premium denim and glam pants with original washes and Made-in-Italy details, proving that fashion trends and sustainability can coexist. Collections for men and women are made of sustainable materials using energy saving processes. Founder Federico Corneli uses high-tech denim fabric specialist Isko’s Recall in Shape technology for the label’s special stretch jeans.
https://haikure.com/

ARTISTIC MILLINERS: SUSTAINABLE DENIM MANUFACTURING
The newest factory of denim fabric and garment producer Artistic Milliners, the eco-friendly AMG-4, raises the bar for the entire industry in giving back to the environment and the community. Omer Ahmed, Director of Artistic Milliners, emphasizes that the facility will be a LEED certified green building, a rare achievement. Artistic Milliners is aiming for a Platinum LEED rating, which requires the highest energy and environmental standards. The AMG-4 factory will excel in the categories of water efficiency, energy and atmosphere, indoor environmental quality, and innovation and design process. Community is another important aspect of the rating; Artistic Milliners already employs an exceptionally high proportion of female workers (70%) its garmenting facilities as well as 150 individuals with disabilities in its finishing departments. The company keeps all of its processes—cutting, stitching, washing, drying and finishing—at the cutting edge by using state-of-the-art machinery and holding special workshops and training sessions. The combination of working with one of Italy’s top washing facilities and creating an environmentally—and community—friendly manufacturing facility sets the company on a sure path to success.
www.artisticmilliners.com

WeAr No. 35

PROJECT PIOLA: RAW RUBBER SNEAKERS
Project Piola is a fair trade footwear label collaborating with 33 rubber producers from Peru. Through a fundraising initiative Piola raised money to educate these Peruvian producers on how to diversify their revenue sources. To celebrate the success of the initiative a limited edition of 150 pairs of Madre de Dios will be launched, featuring a special thank you message on the sole.
www.piola.fr

MUD JEANS: LEASE A JEANS
The Dutch sustainable brand Mud Jeans introduced a new way of recycling fashion with its Lease a Jeans concept. After signing an agreement the customer gets a pair of jeans for 5 euros a month plus a join-up fee of 20 euros. The denim is made from organic cotton and is recycled into a new pair after the initial lease period of the client is up. Three different washes are available for both men and women.
www.mudjeans.nl

WeAr No. 45

ECO PRK: SUSTAINABLE TECHNIQUES
Eco-friendly denim laundry ECO PRK is promoting its dedication to creating sustainable production processes. As the first eco-friendly laundry of its kind, it develops washes for private labels and its own premium brand-Tortoise Denim. Aware of the environmental impact involved in the traditional indigo wash processes, the team has created a process that eliminates the use of toxic chemicals. The garments are washed in the ECO PRK headquarters in Paramount, California, using its patent-pending #61698554 “Wiser Wash” technology. This method uses natural and biodegradable additives along with Ozone, eliminating the need for corrosive chemicals, using little water and still bringing that true vintage look.
www.ecoprk.com

WeAr No. 50

BONAVERI: THE FIRST ECO-MANNEQUIN
Bonaveri presents the first display mannequin manufactured from bio-degradable material. The figures are formed from bioplastics derived from sugarcane and painted with a paint made from renewable raw materials – this was developed in four short years as a result of research carried out jointly by the traditional Italian company and the Polytechnic University of Milan. The resulting mannequins have the same lifespan as those made from synthetics or fiberglass; yet, unlike these versions, the bioplastic version will subsequently degrade without a trace. The famous, elegant ‘Schläppi 2200’ model costs around 1,800 EUR for the eco-friendly version.
www.bonaveri.com

WeAr No. 51

RAINFOREST-FREE FASHION: SUSTAINABLE VISCOSE
Following cotton, it is now viscose’s turn to get eco-friendly. Its production can cause huge environmental damage due to heavy use of wood. This is why GOTS, the organic textile standard, now only certifies clothes made of fiber mixes containing no more than 10% viscose or modal (the more eco-friendly lyocell can make up 30% of the blend). Several conservation groups are campaigning against viscose sourced from tropical forests. In a global ranking of leading cellulose fiber producers, the Canopy Planet Society has named the Lenzing Group number one in sustainable wood sourcing. Lenzing produces Tencel, a lyocell fiber.

WeAr No. 52

WOMENSWEAR LABELS TO WATCH: GILBERTO CALZOLARI
A son of a fabrics salesman and a high-end boutique manager, Milan-born Gilberto Calzolari has lived and breathed fashion since childhood. He graduated from Brera Academy of Fine Arts and began his career working for Italian powerhouses such as Marni, Alberta Ferretti, Valentino, Miu Miu and Giorgio Armani. In 2015 he founded his eponymous label. The brand’s logo – two ginkgo leaves intertwined around the initials “GC” – combines Japanese and art nouveau references and symbolizes a brand rooted in the Milanese luxury traditions but drawing inspiration from world cultures. Floral prints, embroidery and appliqué details and refined sartorial silhouettes position Calzolari’s collections between prêt-à-porter and couture. His first A/W 17-18 collection, produced in Marche region, was inspired by Arctic glaciers. White, light blue and wisteria colors light up the natural precious mikado and duchesse silk, wool crêpe and kidassia eco-fur used for the jackets. An eco-conscious designer, Calzolari supports Polar Bears International, a non-profit that aims to safeguard polar bears and their habitats. The brand is represented by Spring-Up showroom in Milan and shows during Milan Fashion Week.
www.gilbertocalzolari.com

WeAr No. 56

1WOR: CHINESE ECO-PLATFORM
Founders of textile group Bobaolon – Weixiong Chen and Nana Chen – created the platform 1WOR to promote upcoming Chinese and international designers. While the Chinese apparel industry is focusing on expanding production with foreign design, 1WOR rather concentrates on sustainable designers. With more than 100 stores in China, they are now looking to bring their fashion to Europe as well creating partnerships with designers worldwide to be presented on the Chinese market. Therefore they will have a showroom at Shanghai Design Week.
https://www.totemfashion.com/1wor/

M-ODE: FOUNDATION FOR TALENTS IN FASHION
The new Dutch foundation M-ODE is a coaching hub for talented fashion designers, developers and entrepreneurs. The platform provides experience based tools and guidelines for start-ups, in order to become sustainable and responsible companies in the international industry. With special events, workshops, seminars and master classes they bring together necessary expertise and opportunities on various aspects within the fashion chain. Visibility and press, production and sales, network and collaborations are included in the support, all with a strong focus on sustainability.
http://m-ode.net/dev

ACCESSORIES REPORT: Poppy Lissiman
The Australian accessories designer Poppy Lissiman is another brand to embrace the skinny sunglasses trend. Passionate about future-oriented silhouettes and her visits to Art Basel, Lissiman creates retro-maximalist eccentric and colorful sunnies that have, since last year, become an Instagram force to be reckoned with. One of the label’s iconic styles, ‘Le Skinny’, is a sleek cat-eye acetate frame with lenses of a matching color that comes in a rainbow of pop-art hues, including mandarin orange, lilac, strawberry and pink. All products are handcrafted from ethically sourced materials and have a reasonable price point, usually retailing at under EUR 100.
https://poppylissiman.com

WeAr No. 59

NEXT GENERATION: BETHANY WILLIAMS
The young Brit showcased her final year collection in January 2016 – and just this February, Bethany Williams received the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design and was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Williams takes an extremely radical approach to design: she believes the future of high fashion lies in recycling and upcycling.

Williams tries to put sustainability at the heart of as many aspects of her streetwear collections as possible; her work is focused on tackling social, ethical and ecological issues. Each of her gender-neutral looks is produced using 100% recycled or sustainable materials. She employs homeless men and women, former female inmates and drug addicts to help turn organic cotton, discarded paper, recycled plastic and other waste materials into typical streetwear styles, such as wide-legged jeans, oversized shirts, boxy jackets and casual tops for both women and men.

Her latest collection for A/W 2019, ‘Adelaide House’, was produced in collaboration with a women’s shelter in Liverpool, which will receive 20% of the profits. Vivid primary colors in a patchwork design and patterns consisting of large handmade screen prints define the looks; the abstract graphics that feature are the work of artist Giorgia Chiarion. Hand-knitted pullovers made out of thick wool, jeans and jackets crafted from organic denim, tops cut out of recycled tents, handwoven coats made from colorful strips of waste newspaper: as the producers involved in the complex manufacturing process are paid a fair wage, T-shirts retail at around 200-400 EUR; a pair of jeans costs upward of 1,100 EUR. Bethany Williams’ styles are available at retailers such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris, Nid in Tokyo as well as online at Farfetch and odd92.
www.bethany-williams.com

Tommy Hilfiger’s Fall 2019 TommyXZendaya capsule collection created by Tommy Hilfiger in collaboration with actress and global brand ambassador, Zendaya, and image architect, Law Roach was presented at the TOMMYNOW show in Harlem, New York during New York Fashion Week this week.

“As two determined optimists, Zendaya and I wanted to find new ways to celebrate and promote women’s empowerment through fashion,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “The TommyXZendaya collection in fall 2019 challenges and redefines power dressing. The concept has become a state of mind today that is not just about clothing. This second collaboration is about encouraging everyone to embrace their uniqueness and celebrate their individuality in their own terms. ”

“It’s about redefining what power dressing means in the world today, and I’m curious how fans around the world interpret each style as unique to them,” said Zendaya.

The TommyXZendaya collection celebrates the legendary power dressing of the 70s, blended with the classic American cultural heritage of the TOMMY HILFIGER brand. The monochrome color palette blends with rich burgundy and metallic, while a fusion of prints and polka dots gives textured silhouettes and shawls an unexpected twist. Creamy leather, faux fur and fine velvet fabrics with silver metal details provide a luxurious touch.

On The Fringe NYC will present a showcase during NYFW, to be held on September 7th. On The Fringe NYC creates and hosts the space for brands from South Korea. This Collective consists of Korean Brands : Fashion, Beauty, Artist and Accessories:

PLAYNOMORE pursues pleasure of fashion through its key identity SHYGIRL. We want to revive childhood memories and small concentric remains in our hearts. PLAYNOMORE interprets the contrasting concepts such as luxury versus wit, classic versus pop art with our own interpretation.

“We bring out the new image of fashion brand with contemporary wit, introducing a new discovery of the value of the material that has been undervalued with designer’s vision.

CANEZOE is derived form the French word Canezou, which means Cape-style outwear for European ladies in the 19th century. With a differentiated concept that presents European aristocratic style with a modern touch, the haute couture brand offers products with delicate touch and craftsmanship, and offers original and luxurious styles at a more reasonable price. Gisu Lee majored in fine art and textile design in South Korea. Her work inspirations are from nature and universe, and she pursues abstraction and minimalism. K-Beauty is short for Korean Beauty, which is currently drawing attention to overseas markets like K-POP, and is making inroads into different markets.

Tommy Hilfiger announces the Fall 2019 TOMMYNOW “See Now, Buy Now” experiential runway event featuring the TommyXZendaya collection, co-designed by Tommy Hilfiger with global TOMMY HILFIGER brand ambassador, Zendaya. The collection redefines power dressing and celebrates inclusion, diversity and empowerment. TOMMYNOW is returning to New York City for the first time since the platform first premiered there in Fall 2016. The Fall 2019 experiential runway event will take place on Sunday, September 8th at 8:30 p.m. EST at the Apollo Theater.

The Apollo Theater in Harlem has hosted some of the world’s most iconic entertainers including Aretha Franklin, Ella Fitzgerald, Patti LaBelle, and The Supremes. The event will be infused with a cinematic ‘70s Harlem twist, bringing Zendaya’s confident sense of style and optimistic spirit to audiences onsite and virtually around the world.

This season, Tommy Hilfiger is introducing an online virtual reality (V.R.) commerce experience. Building on the trend of elevating the shopping experience though V.R. technology, it is the first time in the industry that such a web-based V.R. experience is introduced at such scale. The V.R. provides audiences worldwide with unparalleled access to the TOMMYNOW show at the Apollo. Users can visit a virtual pop-up merchandise shop, browse product on backstage dressing racks and shop styles worn by models. On the day of the show, 360-camera views placed at the location of the V.R. views at the Apollo Theater will broadcast live feeds into the experience. This will provide a real-time window into the TOMMYNOW world throughout the evening from angles including the red carpet, backstage, and front row. The V.R. experience will launch on September 8th at 8:30 pm EST/September 9th at 2:30 a.m. CEST.

Gucci has launched the second piece of an ongoing collaboration with Comme des Garçons. The two luxury labels began their partnership last December, debuting at the time a shopper tote. The second collaboration product of the Gucci x Comme des Garçons project is a shopper tote, this time featuring a new print, with the iconic Gucci stripe running down the middle of the design.

Featuring a see-through exterior printed with a floral design and a brown paper interior, the shopper tote features signature elements from both labels.

The Gucci x COMME des GARÇONS bag will be available on September 7 at Dover Street Market Ginza.