New York Fashion Week September 2022 schedule
The American collections will return at New York Fashion Week with Proenza Schouler kicking it off on Friday, September 9, and Tom Ford closing the week on the evening of Wednesday, September 14, 2022.
The preliminary schedule features over 110 confirmed designers, including returning brands Altuzarra, Batsheva, Brandon Maxwell, Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano, Coach, Dion Lee, Eckhaus Latta, Gabriela Hearst, Jason Wu, Jonathan Simkhai,KHAITE, LaQuan Smith, LUAR, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Michael Kors, PatBO, Peter Do, Prabal Gurung, Sergio Hudson, Theophilio, Tory Burch, Victor Glemaud and Willy Chavarria.
Tommy Hilfiger, AREA and PUMA return to NYFW after a hiatus.
First-time additions to the schedule’s in-person activations include AnOnlyChild, ASHLYN, Foo and Foo, Midnight Studios, ONE/OF by Patricia Voto, and Tia Adeola.
The CFDA is also welcoming international brands Fendi, Marni and COS to the week.
This year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists Fe Noel, Sukeina, No Sesso, Elena Velez, Judy Turner, Wiederhoeft and BlackBoyKnits also join the week with collection showcases.
“This year marks the 60th anniversary of the CFDA, and as the organizer of the official NYFW schedule, we are incredibly proud to release a lineup that reflects our founding principle: to promote American fashion on a global scale,” said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb. “We celebrate the collective excellence, diversity and resilience of our industry and look forward to a strong American collections season alongside our esteemed international guests.”
Loewe winners of 5th edition of LOEWE FONDATION Craft Prize
This year’s LOEWE FONDATION Craft Prize has been awarded to Korean artist Dahye Jeong for her work A Time of Sincerity (2021). Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of LOEWE, and a jury of leading figures from the worlds of design, architecture, journalism, criticism and museum curatorship, selected the winner and two special mentions from among 30 finalists.
The finalists for the LOEWE Fondation Craft Prize were shortlisted in January 2022 by a panel of experts who chose from among more than 3,000 submissions from around the world. Representing 15 different regions in the world, the 30 finalists work in diverse mediums including ceramics, woodwork, textiles, leather, basketry, glass, metalwork, jewelry and lacquer. Winner Dahye Jeong crafted a piece in the form of a basket from horsehair, using a 500-year-old hat-making technique thought to be a lost skill in Korea. In addition to the delicate lightness of her sculpture A Time of Sincerity, the jury praised her for reviving the age-old tradition.
The annual LOEWE FONDATION Craft Prize was launched in 2016 by Jonathan Anderson to recognize excellence, artistic merit and innovation in modern craftsmanship, and as a tribute to Loewe’s beginnings as a collective craft workshop in 1846. “Craft is the essence of LOEWE. As a house, we are about craft in the purest sense of the word. That is where our modernity lies, and it will always be relevant,” said Jonathan Anderson.
FASHN ROOMS July 2022 edition
From 21 – 25 July, Areal Böhler is all about fashion and focus on fashion, talks and inspiration. Forming the origin and heart of the Düsseldorf fashion scene is be FASHN ROOMS with integrated showroom concept. “Here it’s all about experiencing, discovering and coordinating. The size of the store does not matter – because here especially small and medium-sized retailers find the products that make up a good mix and thus the store of the future,” says Igedo CEO Ulrike Kähler.
Along the lines of a modern concept store, the newly created GREEN ROOM platform opened its doors too: with a diverse range of sustainable, fair fashion – perfectly integrated into the FASHN ROOMS space.
Interest in fairly produced fashion continues to grow and good design and sustainable values are by no means mutually exclusive – on the contrary: fairness and environmental friendliness are reflected in daily lifestyle as well as in favourite looks. “Sustainability is becoming a matter of course,” Ulrike Kähler is convinced. GREEN ROOM is the answer to this trend. “It is still a small plant, but it is growing steadily,” Ulrike Kähler describes the long-term project. As a mixture of sustainable fashion, creative store design and inspiring panel talks, GREEN ROOM builds a bridge between conventional fashion retail and sustainability. GREEN ROOM offers retailers a great opportunity to extend their ranges to include sustainable, fair fashion. On top of this, many hands-on tips on how to present sustainable products attractively in the store will be shared. “The mix is perfect. We bring together what belongs together and all of this in a single, very inspiring place,” says Ulrike Kähler explaining the innovative, sales-expanding concept. The cooperation with selected, competent service partners and inspiring lectures will provide the concept with additional energy. “We regard the new FASHN ROOMS as a blueprint for concept stores – retailers should take advantage of this special opportunity for inspiration,” Ulrike Kähler appeals to retailers.
Furthermore, by introducing ADDITIONALS, FASHN ROOMS also open up a space for beauty and lifestyle products, including skincare and decorative cosmetics, oils, fragrances, wellness articles as well as stationery, candles etc. The core products of FASHN ROOMS, i.e. hats, accessories and bags, are also given a perfect stage there. Beyond the product, it is also about an appealing, purchase-inspiring presentation in the shop. “With attractive products that encourage impulse buying, we open up new possibilities for retailers to surprise and sustainably inspire their shoppers and generate more sales,” says Ulrike Kähler.
ICE agency x Zalando support ‘Made in Italy’, with a project exclusive
Agenzia ICE and Zalando collaborate together for the first time by activating “Made in Italy” Gallery: an exclusive partnership that aims to promote the style and tradition of Italian fashion and cosmetics, as well as helping a selection of 40 Italian brands to expand abroad through an investment of over 1 million euros. This project involves the offer of Zalando Partner Program platform services that will allow brands to connect to beyond 49 million potential customers in Europe. In addition, a dedicated virtual gallery in Zalando will be launched to celebrate the best of Made in Italy, involving both new brands and Italian brands that are already partners by Zalando.
“We want to keep the world’s attention on fashion and cosmetics, two sectors among them most significant ambassadors of Made in Italy “says Carlo Ferro, President of the ICE Agency.
“The partnership with such an important player as Zalando in Germany, a proximity market which together with the other European countries represents a point of reference for our companies, it goes seen in this perspective, and is part of our broader support plan which includes 33 agreements with the main international e-commerce platforms. With the aim of accompanying them on the markets in a global context where e-commerce plays an increasingly central role, especially in the current one geopolitical and post-pandemic situation. I send my best wishes for this new business project and to the whole Zalando team ”.
ICE will mainly provide support to brands through an investment to develop marketing campaigns dedicated to maximizing the visibility of the offer through Zalando Marketing Services (ZMS).
“I am particularly proud of our collaboration with ICE Agency and to announce the beginning of a new opportunity for companies of Italian excellence to grow in the world of digital with Zalando. Made in Italy represents an added value, not only in our country, but especially abroad. Italian brands have always stood out as a synonym of quality, of craftsmanship and creativity, and today more than ever, this aspect is a competitive value where we want invest “- concludes Riccardo Vola, General Manager Italy and Spain Zalando.
35th edition of Milano Unica
Last week the 35th edition of Milano Unica took place. Returning to its three-day format with a host of top-quality exhibitors who, thanks to the recovery of the international markets and the lifting of restrictions on travel, can count on a significant increase in visitors from abroad. The Trade Show of high-end textiles and accessories for womenswear, menswear and kidswear confirms again its status as a point of reference for the entire system.
There have been 389 exhibitors represented, 324 of which Italian and 65 from other countries, and their new proposals for the Autumn/Winter 2023/2024 season send a signal of a strong economic recovery. The exhibition panorama was filled out by numerous special areas and projects, raising the total number of exhibitors present at the 35th edition to 445.
The Trade Show expanded back to occupy four Halls, and from the main entrance, in Hall 8, visitors immediately plunge into the itinerary of MU Tendenze & Sustainability, a unique area that provides a striking introduction, with its visual, tactile and sensory stimuli, in a creative progression that goes beyond seasonality and is increasingly oriented towards respect for the planet and its inhabitants, increasing the visibility of a broad range of products that manifest a growing commitment to Sustainable Creativity.
In order to present a broad spectrum of the season’s proposals, the spotlight was on the many companies that produce women’s collections, with a focus on the textiles and accessories designed specifically for womenswear.
Inspired by the three Tendenze themes proposed by Milano Unica for the Autumn/ Winter 2023/2024 season, the focus on women is expressed in three areas that eloquently display the fervent creativity directed at the world of women.
The spaces follow one another in an itinerary that crosses through many proposals: from the opulence of precious materials, sophisticated workmanship and ultra-decorative elements, like jeweled buttons and floral embroidery, that whisper tales of women of the Far East, to details inspired by the natural world. Micro-organisms become prints, or matelassè jacquards, lightness gives way to transparency, lace alternates between glossy and opaque and accessories are animalier- inspired.
Stone Island presents Amsterdam
Pitti Uomo 102nd edition wrap-up
Pitti Uomo 102 took place from 14 to 17 June 2022 at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The number of participating brands (682, of which 41% from abroad), but above all that of visitors (over 16,000) and buyers (over 10,600, of which 40% from abroad) documented an event that, despite the current difficulties at an international level and the consequences of the pandemic, was able to reaffirm its centrality within the international fashion system.
The performances on Pitti Connect were also very satisfactory, with over 840,000 page views from 11 May to 5 July and over 6,600 buyers logging in. The 682 brands on the platform with their page will remain online until 2 September.
Over the four days, the show was visited by the most influential and representative buyers (their number more than doubled compared to the 2021 summer edition). The new collections and previews attracted media operators from all over the world.
Furthermore Pitti Uomo 102 kicked off online, on Pitti Connect, on 11 May. The brand pages featuring the new collections will remain live until 2 September. During this time, which extends companies’ participation in the Fortezza show, the brands will stay in the spotlight, with collection material available for buyers and specialized media. On Pitti Connect, the summer edition of Pitti Uomo features an in-depth editorial activity that serves to create new and interesting content for the entire community. Brands are showcased through interviews and special projects, all published on The Billboard.
CHT on how denim production is returning to Germany
Having clothing and textiles produced in Germany is back in fashion. The topic of sustainability plays a central role here. With German production, the short delivery routes to the end customer already have a significant impact on the environment. In addition, there are the latest technical developments and digital technologies “made in Germany”, which make Germany more attractive as a production location again.
Anyone who leads a sustainable life takes care to conserve resources such as raw materials and natural resources – both when acquiring new things and when using existing items. The conscious use of clothing is one of many examples. Without a doubt, the most environmentally friendly way is to treat clothing with care and wear it for as long as possible. Anyone who needs something new can fall back on sustainable labels whose textile products have been produced under socially fair and ecologically sustainable conditions. Because the production of clothing in particular contributes significantly to climate change. For example, a new pair of jeans consumes several thousand liters of water due to the cotton cultivation, dyeing and finishing process. In the conventional finishing process, many chemicals, some of which are toxic, are used, which, among other things, give the jeans the popular used look. After processing, these chemicals have to be carefully washed out again using an enormous amount of water. In addition, there is the social aspect of sustainability in jeans production, as the majority of this garment is still produced in emerging countries – sometimes under questionable conditions
Due to the public awareness of sustainability and the increasingly strict regulatory requirements such as the European Green New Deal, the pressure on textile production and industry is increasing. It is an industry that is subject to change and therefore thirsts for innovative and sustainable solutions.
With the CHT Group, a medium-sized global player for specialty chemicals with a focus on sustainable chemical products and process solutions headquartered in Tübingen, the start-up has a strong partner at its side. In addition to the supply of tools for jeans finishings, the young start-up benefits from the valuable experience in the field of sustainable denim finishing from almost 70 years of company history from the CHT Group. In the meantime, the international group of companies with production and sales locations is represented by 26 companies worldwide and achieved group sales of 630 million euros with 2,400 employees in the 2021 financial year.
The two companies see themselves as sparring partners, exchanging views on tried-and-tested processes, as well as on existing and the latest processes and new technologies. In this way, one learns from the other – and vice versa.
Fashion is back in Berlin
by Klaus Vogel
Premium Exhibitions held it’s first event after the pandemic July 7th – 9th on the International Congress Centrum in Berlin.
After moving from Berlin to Frankfurt and back the organizers around Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz changed not only the location but the concept.
With an area called “The Ground”, end consumers were invited to join the fair for the first time, able to amuse, party, and shop cool vintage clothing alongside selected items. TikTok, Netflix, and others presented themselves to the public, while professional exhibitors and buyers have been separated in various halls to do business.
As always interesting summits and an industry party have been held.
Throughout a total of 13 areas, Premium Exhibitions presented the FashionTech Conference, the new format The Ground, Premium Exhibition: HIGH, ICON and VOLUME as well as SEEK. The latter displayed brands like Puma, Wrangler, Copenhagen Studios, Ecoalf and Drykorn, in a very fitting set-up.
Fortunately for the area, which was plagued by fires lately, but unfortunately for the show which had planned various outside events at the trade show area, it was raining at the time of the initial exhibitor party so it was moved inside, loosing a bit from the coolness it would have had if celebrated outside in the evening sun.
Premium Exhibitions deserves praise to organize such a necessary event for the entire fashion industry under difficult circumstances and thankfully, there have been enough bold brands taking the risk to support a new format instead of following the timid “wait and see” approach. Buyers have not only been flown in but also came in significant numbers and found a mix of interesting collections of all types of fashion. All in all the event was rated as a positive new start.
Of course, it wouldn’t reflect the typical German attitude, if people were 100% happy and there is indeed room for improvement in various fields. However, we like to congratulate the organizers.
Industry players, buyers and consumers should attend the next event and more brands should participate.
The groundwork is done. Let’s move forward and act as one to create an international place to meet, party, inspire, do business and celebrate fashion.
Avant Toi F/W 2023 collection
For the new AVANT TOI Fall/Winter collection, the brand was inspired by the shapes and explosive colors of nature, transferring this innate force on their garments. The aim with this collection was to introduce new and innovative techniques, lines, and colors on the world’s most refined materials: cashmere, silk, merinos, alpaca, velvet….
The intent was also to transport the shapes and tones of an entire ecosystem on the pieces: gauzed garments that recall the soft embrace of moss and the hues of lichens, ribbed dresses which evoke the gills of psychedelic mushrooms and the pigmentation of flowers such as orchids and camelias, textures similar to the coats of jungle animals such as snakes and tigers, mimetic silks disguised in vegetation, molten gold and bronze laminations, hand painted colorations on knitwear that illustrate flowery motifs or the Aurora Borealis. Innovative treatments which are at the basis of a new resounding line of sweaters, ponchos, fleeces, skirts, pants, scarves, foulards, hats, and t-shirts, all waiting to be discovered.
Furthermore, the FLOWER LAKE capsule collection was conceived within the FW 22/23 collection. Inspired by the colors of a lake to create these items, painting on cashmere (exclusively by hand!) the tones of nature and flowers reflected in a body of water. All garments are one of a kind, but for this capsule each individual piece was also numbered, to make it an even more unique and inimitable work of art.
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