35th edition of Milano Unica

35th edition of Milano Unica

Last week the 35th edition of Milano Unica took place. Returning to its three-day format with a host of top-quality exhibitors who, thanks to the recovery of the international markets and the lifting of restrictions on travel, can count on a significant increase in visitors from abroad. The Trade Show of high-end textiles and accessories for womenswear, menswear and kidswear confirms again its status as a point of reference for the entire system.

There have been 389 exhibitors represented, 324 of which Italian and 65 from other countries, and their new proposals for the Autumn/Winter 2023/2024 season send a signal of a strong economic recovery. The exhibition panorama was filled out by numerous special areas and projects, raising the total number of exhibitors present at the 35th edition to 445.

The Trade Show expanded back to occupy four Halls, and from the main entrance, in Hall 8, visitors immediately plunge into the itinerary of MU Tendenze & Sustainability, a unique area that provides a striking introduction, with its visual, tactile and sensory stimuli, in a creative progression that goes beyond seasonality and is increasingly oriented towards respect for the planet and its inhabitants, increasing the visibility of a broad range of products that manifest a growing commitment to Sustainable Creativity.

In order to present a broad spectrum of the season’s proposals, the spotlight was on the many companies that produce women’s collections, with a focus on the textiles and accessories designed specifically for womenswear.
Inspired by the three Tendenze themes proposed by Milano Unica for the Autumn/ Winter 2023/2024 season, the focus on women is expressed in three areas that eloquently display the fervent creativity directed at the world of women.

The spaces follow one another in an itinerary that crosses through many proposals: from the opulence of precious materials, sophisticated workmanship and ultra-decorative elements, like jeweled buttons and floral embroidery, that whisper tales of women of the Far East, to details inspired by the natural world. Micro-organisms become prints, or matelassè jacquards, lightness gives way to transparency, lace alternates between glossy and opaque and accessories are animalier- inspired.

Stone Island presents Amsterdam

Stone Island presents Amsterdam

Born in 2015, Stone Island presents events series has brought together high-profile talents from the world of electronic music and beyond. After London, Glasgow, Manchester and Tokyo in 2018 and London again, in 2019 Stone Island Presents landed in Italy – for the first time with C2C at the Milanese preview of C2C Festival. In 2021 the London edition at the iconic Roundhouse and the return to Milan at Fabrique followed. In May 2022 it was time for Berlin, at Wilhelm Hallen, a new location in the city located in the complex of the ancient Winkelhof iron foundries. The latest event took place in Amsterdam, on July 14th at the Muziekgebouw concert hall. As part of Stone Island Sound, curated by C2C Festival, in this setting, the shows of Binker & Moses, Blackhaine, Charlotte Adigéry & Bolis Pupul, Romy, Elena Colombi, Haron took place.
Pitti Uomo 102nd edition wrap-up

Pitti Uomo 102nd edition wrap-up

Pitti Uomo 102 took place from 14 to 17 June 2022 at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The number of participating brands (682, of which 41% from abroad), but above all that of visitors (over 16,000) and buyers (over 10,600, of which 40% from abroad) documented an event that, despite the current difficulties at an international level and the consequences of the pandemic, was able to reaffirm its centrality within the international fashion system.

The performances on Pitti Connect were also very satisfactory, with over 840,000 page views from 11 May to 5 July and over 6,600 buyers logging in. The 682 brands on the platform with their page will remain online until 2 September.

Over the four days, the show was visited by the most influential and representative buyers (their number more than doubled compared to the 2021 summer edition). The new collections and previews attracted media operators from all over the world.

Furthermore Pitti Uomo 102 kicked off online, on Pitti Connect, on 11 May. The brand pages featuring the new collections will remain live until 2 September. During this time, which extends companies’ participation in the Fortezza show, the brands will stay in the spotlight, with collection material available for buyers and specialized media. On Pitti Connect, the summer edition of Pitti Uomo features an in-depth editorial activity that serves to create new and interesting content for the entire community. Brands are showcased through interviews and special projects, all published on The Billboard.

CHT on how denim production is returning to Germany

CHT on how denim production is returning to Germany

Having clothing and textiles produced in Germany is back in fashion. The topic of sustainability plays a central role here. With German production, the short delivery routes to the end customer already have a significant impact on the environment. In addition, there are the latest technical developments and digital technologies “made in Germany”, which make Germany more attractive as a production location again.

Anyone who leads a sustainable life takes care to conserve resources such as raw materials and natural resources – both when acquiring new things and when using existing items. The conscious use of clothing is one of many examples. Without a doubt, the most environmentally friendly way is to treat clothing with care and wear it for as long as possible. Anyone who needs something new can fall back on sustainable labels whose textile products have been produced under socially fair and ecologically sustainable conditions. Because the production of clothing in particular contributes significantly to climate change. For example, a new pair of jeans consumes several thousand liters of water due to the cotton cultivation, dyeing and finishing process. In the conventional finishing process, many chemicals, some of which are toxic, are used, which, among other things, give the jeans the popular used look. After processing, these chemicals have to be carefully washed out again using an enormous amount of water. In addition, there is the social aspect of sustainability in jeans production, as the majority of this garment is still produced in emerging countries – sometimes under questionable conditions

Due to the public awareness of sustainability and the increasingly strict regulatory requirements such as the European Green New Deal, the pressure on textile production and industry is increasing. It is an industry that is subject to change and therefore thirsts for innovative and sustainable solutions.

With the CHT Group, a medium-sized global player for specialty chemicals with a focus on sustainable chemical products and process solutions headquartered in Tübingen, the start-up has a strong partner at its side. In addition to the supply of tools for jeans finishings, the young start-up benefits from the valuable experience in the field of sustainable denim finishing from almost 70 years of company history from the CHT Group. In the meantime, the international group of companies with production and sales locations is represented by 26 companies worldwide and achieved group sales of 630 million euros with 2,400 employees in the 2021 financial year.

The two companies see themselves as sparring partners, exchanging views on tried-and-tested processes, as well as on existing and the latest processes and new technologies. In this way, one learns from the other – and vice versa.

Fashion is back in Berlin

Fashion is back in Berlin

by Klaus Vogel

Premium Exhibitions held it’s first event after the pandemic July 7th – 9th on the International Congress Centrum in Berlin.
After moving from Berlin to Frankfurt and back the organizers around Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz changed not only the location but the concept.
With an area called “The Ground”, end consumers were invited to join the fair for the first time, able to amuse, party, and shop cool vintage clothing alongside selected items. TikTok, Netflix, and others presented themselves to the public, while professional exhibitors and buyers have been separated in various halls to do business.
As always interesting summits and an industry party have been held.

Throughout a total of 13 areas, Premium Exhibitions presented the FashionTech Conference, the new format The Ground, Premium Exhibition: HIGH, ICON and VOLUME as well as SEEK. The latter displayed brands like Puma, Wrangler, Copenhagen Studios, Ecoalf and Drykorn, in a very fitting set-up.

Fortunately for the area, which was plagued by fires lately, but unfortunately for the show which had planned various outside events at the trade show area, it was raining at the time of the initial exhibitor party so it was moved inside, loosing a bit from the coolness it would have had if celebrated outside in the evening sun.

Premium Exhibitions deserves praise to organize such a necessary event for the entire fashion industry under difficult circumstances and thankfully, there have been enough bold brands taking the risk to support a new format instead of following the timid “wait and see” approach.  Buyers have not only been flown in but also came in significant numbers and found a mix of interesting collections of all types of fashion.  All in all the event was rated as a  positive new start.

Of course, it wouldn’t reflect the typical German attitude, if people were 100% happy and there is indeed room for improvement in various fields. However, we like to congratulate the organizers.
Industry players, buyers and consumers should attend the next event and more brands should participate.

The groundwork is done. Let’s move forward and act as one to create an international place to meet, party, inspire, do business and celebrate fashion.

Avant Toi F/W 2023 collection

Avant Toi F/W 2023 collection

For the new AVANT TOI Fall/Winter collection, the brand was inspired by the shapes and explosive colors of nature, transferring this innate force on their garments. The aim with this collection was to introduce new and innovative techniques, lines, and colors on the world’s most refined materials: cashmere, silk, merinos, alpaca, velvet….

The intent was also to transport the shapes and tones of an entire ecosystem on the pieces: gauzed garments that recall the soft embrace of moss and the hues of lichens, ribbed dresses which evoke the gills of psychedelic mushrooms and the pigmentation of flowers such as orchids and camelias, textures similar to the coats of jungle animals such as snakes and tigers, mimetic silks disguised in vegetation, molten gold and bronze laminations, hand painted colorations on knitwear that illustrate flowery motifs or the Aurora Borealis. Innovative treatments which are at the basis of a new resounding line of sweaters, ponchos, fleeces, skirts, pants, scarves, foulards, hats, and t-shirts, all waiting to be discovered.

Furthermore, the FLOWER LAKE capsule collection was conceived within the FW 22/23 collection. Inspired by the colors of a lake to create these items, painting on cashmere (exclusively by hand!) the tones of nature and flowers reflected in a body of water. All garments are one of a kind, but for this capsule each individual piece was also numbered, to make it an even more unique and inimitable work of art.

Premium Group events coming up in July

Premium Group events coming up in July

Trade shows Premium and Seek and conference event FashionTech will all be making their return this year, set to take place in Berlin Messe, Germany, with the addition of a new D2C festival, The Ground. The collective, operated by Premium Group, will all take place from July 7 to 9 for its return to the group’s home city of Berlin for the coming season.

The new location Messe Berlin will become the Premium Group cosmos, a holistic inspirational hub for all relevant topics related to fashion, trends, retail, lifestyle, marketing, digitization, sustainability, metaverse and more.

In order to be able to show all relevant segments of advanced contemporary fashion even better and more holistically, the PREMIUM portfolio will be divided into three new areas from the summer. With the segmentation into High, Icon & Volume, large, commercially successful brands as well as more focused designer brands, newcomers and smaller innovators will now find their place. Here the PREMIUM fashion team advises all partners in detail in order to guarantee ideal positioning and the possibility of storytelling.

“In order to remain sustainable, we want and need to merge B2B and D2C and create a place – a marketplace for ideas and products – where brands, retailers and consumers come together and learn from each other. For the first time, we are offering holistic reach, synergy and network effects,” explains Jörg Arntz, Managing Director Premium Group.

Digital Shanghai Fashion Week: 1st season completed

Digital Shanghai Fashion Week: 1st season completed

The first season of Digital Shanghai Fashion Week came to a close, being the the first fashion week to be held entirely digitally. The event took place on Tmall, the online marketplace of Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba. The Fashion Week merged catwalk shows with entertaining teleshopping, and demonstrated how Alibaba’s livestream-shopping works. The three-day event saw nearly 40 virtual catwalks held on short-video platform Douyin.

Looking ahead, Shanghai Fashion Week plans to create a hybrid of online and offline fashion week events in the coming years. 

LVMH’s augmented presence at Viva Technology event

LVMH’s augmented presence at Viva Technology event

Viva Technology – the startup and tech event in Europe, which brings together business leaders, startups and investors each year – took place for 4 days from June 15th. This year, LVMH had an augmented presence, with interconnected physical and digital spaces throughout the event. The Group’s focus was on 2 key issues for the industry – data transformation, Web3 and sustainability.

In the 600-sq.m. “LVMH Apartment” set up at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center in Paris, the Group showcased innovations by 16 of its Maisons, solutions developed by the 21 startups shortlisted for the LVMH Innovation Award and collaborations with 5 startups from previous years. The “Open Kitchen” section of the LVMH stand hosted the DARE intrapreneurship program and La Maison des Startups.

A highlight of the four-day event, the LVMH Innovation Award Ceremony took place on Wednesday, June 16 on Viva Technology’s main stage. During this ceremony co‑hosted by Livi, the overall winner of the sixth LVMH Innovation Award was revealed.

CPHFW launches emerging designers support program: NEWTALENT

CPHFW launches emerging designers support program: NEWTALENT

Copenhagen Fashion Week announced the commencement of its emerging designer support scheme CPHFW NEWTALENT supported by Circulose that formalises its dedication to supporting visionary talent of the Nordics. The first brands to be supported in the scheme are A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and P.L.N.

The three brands within the CPHFW NEWTALENT support scheme will be enrolled for three consecutive seasons. Subsequently each brand will graduate on to the alumni scheme, that will continue supporting the graduates of the CPHFW NEWTALENT support scheme across showcasing, events, networking, business support, communication and sponsorship opportunities.

“We are proud to introduce CPHFW NEWTALENT as a formalised structure to how Copenhagen Fashion Week is investing in the next generation of exceptional talent. With responsibility an overarching and foundational focus of our organisation, this scheme will allow us to continue to grow our dedication to talent. It is a vital step we have taken to provide an encompassing program for the talents to build their brand on an international scale and to introduce them to our global audience.” – Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Stone Island 40th Anniversary Kit

Stone Island 40th Anniversary Kit

A comprehensive collection of garments inspired by the Stone Island Archive, made in a special edition for the 40th Anniversary. Only available as a kit.

Backpack in RASO GOMMATO COVER NERO BIO, made of 100% organic cotton coupled with polymers deriving from 52% biomass, hence components of biological origin. Garment dyed with the addition of an anti-drop agent without perfluorocarbons. Two outer pockets featuring the Archive iconic rubber patch with flap and snap fastening. The top closure flap, with strap and buckle, features a squared rubber patch with Stone Island lettering.

Inside the backpack:

– Long-sleeve crewneck T-Shirt in 24/1 raw cotton. Horizontal striped bust and Stone Island lettering on chest. Solid-colour sleeves with elbows featuring the rounded print taken from the iconic Archive rubber patch. Garment dyed.

– Swim trunks in cotton nylon canvas. All-over pigment print featuring vertical segmented striped motif and Stone Island lettering. Over dyed

– Joggers in 24/1 raw cotton. Rounded print taken from the iconic Archive rubber patch at knees. Pigment printed waistband, blue outside and pinstriped inside, with drawstring. Garment dyed.

– Short-sleeve polo sweatshirt in cotton terry. Terry face inside, horizontal segmented striped motif and Stone Island lettering outside. Two metal buttons at neck fastening. Garment dyed.

– Short-sleeve crewneck T-Shirt in 24/1 raw cotton. Small embroidered motif on the neckline, under the sleeve and sides. Stone Island Marina print on chest. Garment dyed.

AlphaTauri presents Spring/Summer 2023 at Pitti Uomo in Florence


AlphaTauri presents Spring/Summer 2023 at Pitti Uomo in Florence


In a combined space of more than 100m2 across the “Mobile Innovation Lab” – a flexible brand experience space – and the directly adjacent lounge, AlphaTauri presents the new Spring/Summer 2023 collection, enriched as usual with functional details and innovative features. Visitors to Florence’s Pitti Uomo can expect a sophisticated collection with many innovations. With a collection that is almost twice as large as SS22, AlphaTauri offers more styles, more possible combinations and more trans-seasonal styles. The total number of knit products has increased by 20% and there are more different qualities available in the 3D knit collection. In addition to the basic performance yarns, these include Cashmax, PrimaLoft and a Tencel- blended yarn. For the first time, apple leather is used for accessories. Apple leather is a vegan alternative to animal leather and is made from recycled materials in a saffiano structure. The Spring/Summer 2023 Collection will be delivered over two delivery windows. 

“Our collection development continues at pace and we receive a lot of positive feedback! We have founded our core competencies around innovative outerwear and 3D knit and presenting them in complete looks. These product groups are already very popular with our national and international trading partners. Of course we are very happy about this!” says Ahmet Mercan, AlphaTauri CEO. 

As well as being represented in German-speaking countries, since Autumn/Winter 2022 the brand has been distributed across many more European countries. For Spring/Summer 2023, the newly-added markets are to be consolidated, while the network is expanded both within and outside of Europe. The second half of 2022 will also see the opening of the company’s first flagship store in the London district of Knightsbridge. There is also a strong focus on the development of online trade, both through the company’s own website alphatauri.com and via key partners. 

NEW! WeAr Global Magazine Issue 71

NEW! WeAr Global Magazine Issue 71

Brand new issue 71 of WeAr Global Magazine is now out!

WeAr highlights in this special issue the opportunities for brands and retailers NFTs and the Metaverse (Web3) offers to the industry. How retailers, brands and designers can profit and which first steps to take. Additionally a special NFT give-away gives readers the opportunity to be gifted NFTs (limited amount available only).

 

Get your copy of WeAr Global Magazine 71, in print or digital here!

 

Interview – Martijn Hagman CEO Tommy Hilfiger about Pushing Digital Boundaries

Interview – Martijn Hagman CEO Tommy Hilfiger about Pushing Digital Boundaries

by: Shamin Vogel

WeAr interviews Martijn Hagman, CEO Tommy Hilfiger Global & PVH Europe on the potential of the metaverse, future of retail, brand strategies, crypto, sustainability, loyalty programs in the NFT world, and the phygital world.

What was your essential incentive to enter the metaverse in its early stage?
For a few years now, we have been at the forefront of exploring digital innovations. We are stepping into an inspiring and exciting new era of commerce that offers endless opportunities to connect with consumers in the digital and physical worlds. We stay strongly committed to our consumers by creating brand experiences that are authentic and unexpected, while encouraging them to express their individuality.

What is Tommy Hilfiger’s attitude towards digital fashion and NFTs?
Digital fashion is stronger and more appealing than ever — from 3D product development to the digitalization of the supply chain, to self-expression through an avatar. By increasing our investments in digital, we can enhance and improve our sustainability efforts in many ways. For instance, when it comes to the consumer, offering direct interactions and personalization, through to a complete virtual wardrobe experience. NFTs are a big part of this new digital space, which can add incredible value to the community and our brand. We see NFTs bringing the next iteration of brand access, membership, and loyalty, while also providing new opportunities for collaborations through projects, digital artists, and innovators in this space.

Can you explain how you will adapt your strategy to fit the current phygital trends?
There is an undeniable acceleration in the merger of digital and physical worlds. Web3 will continue to evolve, pushing brands to break barriers and lead the industry with new experiences that surprise and excite consumers. We are currently developing our metaverse strategy, which will be a clear indicator of how we continue to innovate in phygital brand experiences that add value to our business and bring us closer to consumers. At the same time, we are leveraging technology in our physical stores to enhance the omnichannel experience.

Will the metaverse help tap into a new consumer group that previously was not a prime target group for fashion companies?
The metaverse has opened the door for us to engage with new consumers we wouldn’t otherwise reach using traditional channels. It’s also allowing us to stay connected to our current fans in more inclusive, new, and exciting ways by offering virtual fashion that gives a whole new meaning to “universal” clothing. One of the great aspects of the metaverse is its inclusive nature, which connects to our brand values of “Welcoming All.”

As a pioneer in Web3, which lessons have you learned? What can be improved to achieve a holistic experience for consumers?
Over time, digital will become the leading sphere of everything we do and making sure we have a well-thought-out strategy is key to success. One key takeaway so far is not to get swept away with the fear of missing an opportunity. There are many new ways to connect with consumers on a whole new level, giving them access to the brand in experiential and personal ways. The key is to be strategic and considerate, to understand what they want, and deliver at the right moment.

How do you see the future of cryptocurrency and fashion intersecting?
It’s already happening — some brands are accepting cryptocurrency, others are offering digital wearable NFTs, and some are just observing. The e-commerce landscape will change, cryptocurrencies will be just another payment method available. Once blockchain protocols become more consumer-centric, shopping will become much simpler. Right now, the instability of crypto must be carefully considered when thinking of traditional retail.

Brands have started to issue NFTs together with roadmaps, tying them directly to brand loyalty. Will this be the ultimate future of using NFTs, or do you see other options for fashion companies, which live from one-off purchases thus far?
As we continue to seek innovative ways to connect with the community, NFTs can be powerful allies for membership and loyalty programs. The overall demand for NFTs is progressively increasing, presenting an opportunity for them to evolve from simple collectibles to utility assets – think of exclusive access to clubs, communities, and virtual or in-person experiences. By creating exciting NFTs that unlock exclusive brand experiences we can stay more connected with consumers in new and unforeseen ways. Looking ahead, NFTs could be the central digital touchpoint between brands and consumers – one that can be fully controlled by brands.

Looking to the future, will you create specific collections with different aesthetic approaches for the physical and the virtual stores?
We are already on this path – our recent Roblox collaboration presented exclusive virtual items that were very well received by the community. We will continue to explore partnerships that enable us to create these smaller digital capsules which allow us to interact with a new generation of consumers. Be it by collaborating with digital players, or developing our own collections, there are great opportunities when it comes to creating fully digital products that defy the laws of physics — customization can not only empower fans to celebrate their individuality, but also builds long-term loyalty.

What would the perfect phygital world look like?
I am passionate about the word “phygital” and what it represents – the heights we can reach are endless. Breaking boundaries and having an innovative mindset are critical to creating a phygital world. The shift to a digital-first mentality will become the norm and we are already seeing the integration of physical and digital becoming more and more realistic – digital activations in-store, virtual initiatives that deliver physical products to your door, and many others. We are committed to investing in innovations that will bridge the gap between online and offline in exciting ways, not only to our consumers, but also in upgrading internal processes and operations.

Congratulations on finding the QR Code to hopefully get one of the limited numbers of NFTs that Tommy Hilfiger and artist Gigi Gorlova made available to WeAr readers. Each supplied 71 NFTs, for WeAr issue 71, as a gift to our readers. Scan the QR Code and follow the instructions. Kindly understand that due to the limited number not everyone can get one of the NFTs.

INTERVIEW – A Rendezvous with Immersive Fashion: Iris van Herpen

INTERVIEW – A Rendezvous with Immersive Fashion: Iris van Herpen

by: Kristina Gligorovska

Iris van Herpen is a frontrunner in interweaving technology into fashion design. Everything she designs comprises innovation, mirroring the world we live in. For this edition of WeAr, she speaks about her vision of the future of fashion.

WeAr: How do you feel about experimenting with hybrid scenarios which seem to be the right formula for the fashion industry today?

I love thinking and creating in hybrid realities. The designs challenge our notion of reality, playing with the perception of the future and past. Haute Couture has an incredible history of craftsmanship, yet by entwining new technologies into them, the designs are showing a futuristic perspective of identity and materiality. I search for symbiotic relationships within my designs, exploring the hidden beauty at the intersection of the artificial and the organic, nature and technology, combining a thread and a needle with high-tech to symbiotically blend them. This philosophy of duality has interestingly been ground in all my designs. This philosophy of duality has interestingly been ground to all my designs from the beginning. So the current technological evolution into the metaverse is a natural one. In the digital designs, we can express this duality even further and the full vision of concept and inspiration is extended into the whole space around and beyond the body.

 

 

WeAr: Being a couturier, you fuse multi-disciplinary technologies with refined artisanal craftmanship, echoing immersive sensory experiences. Is it possible to transfer that notion to digital clothes?

Absolutely, in all the designs and shows, I’m exploring performance and metamorphoses. The designs transform through motion and often seem to defy the laws of our physical reality. Through my dance background, I learned that movement and transformation are our most powerful language of seduction. Designing digitally is so exciting because I can push the boundaries of surrealism, motion, and metamorphosis even more. Multiple realities can apply at the same time in one garment. And a garment becomes a story through time, like music. Through the mixed reality transition I’m working on, I want to create synaesthetic experiences. Synaesthesia is when our senses are mixed, you can feel sounds or taste colors, for example. I have a bit of synaesthesia as when I hear beautiful music, I start seeing patterns. This multi-sensorial experience is what I want to give people through my mixed reality experiences. Twelve years ago, I made my Synesthesia collection, dreaming of shifting the public sensorial reality. The time for such an emotional shift is becoming possible now.

WeAr: You connect with your clients on many levels when creating garments. How do you achieve a holistic experience for a customer in the metaverse?

Very good question. The metaverse is developing, and it is inspiring to bring the client’s journey into the metaverse in the near future and bring them even closer to the creative process, from sketch to final stitches. Currently, clients visit the atelier one, two or three times for fitting; at that moment, they have a glimpse of the process. In the future, they will be able to visit our metaverse atelier with their avatar, experiencing all the key moments of the process as they would during the physical fittings in the atelier in Amsterdam. They will experience our mixed reality show in Paris, seeing physical models and mixed reality performances with digital designs combined. This is an overwhelming experience that they will be able to experience again at home afterwards. Before we start our client’s custom design journey, the client visits the Iris van Herpen metaverse museum. They walk through all the archive pieces and experience performances and shows to fully dive into our DNA to be immersed in the creative vision and start imagining their new IVH design.

WeAr: Everything you design comprises technology and innovation, mirroring the world we live in. Your approach speaks at a great level to a younger generation – the early adopters of the metaverse. Do you plan to enter the metaverse/the NFT world?

Absolutely! We have been working on this for two years now. As a perfectionist, I want the metaverse designs and performances to be as wholesome and detailed as the physical Haute Couture. Part one will be unveiled in two months.

WeAr: You are a prominent voice for sustainability. In your opinion, does the metaverse hold solutions to the environmental problems created by the fashion industry?

Indeed, the big promise of the metaverse and digital designs is that brands will first release their collections digitally, their customers can respond, and the brand will know which designs are popular. This selection will then be produced physically. A major flaw in the traditional fashion system is the inexact matching of supply and demand. Between 30 and 40 percent of all the garments produced are never sold – take a moment to realize this. Creating the collections digitally first can tackle the entire overproduction.
We – IVH, only do Haute Couture, meaning we only create what is ordered by our clients and therefore have zero overproduction. With the metaverse blooming, this can become a reality for every brand. Their customers can try on the digital creations on their avatar and order the pieces they love, and only the loved looks are produced physically.

 

 

WeAr: We hear very often that we need to rethink the fashion system. What would be the right way to grasp the potential of technology to amplify progress?

The system is utterly broken. It is painful to know how badly it functions and it needs to transform radically. Three things need to change: production, materials, and behavior.
Production: as mentioned above, 30 to 40 percent of the annual 148 million tons (estimated) of garments produced end up in landfill before being worn. This can be avoided by having consumers choose their favorite designs in the metaverse, they can wear the looks they love, go out, share it online with their community, and brands can transparently monitor what needs to be produced physically.
Materials: all brands can create entirely from sustainable materials; full transparency is needed to change each brand’s behavior. The blockchain can create full transparency of all the materials used, and where they come from, to even how and where the individual yarns are produced: each part of the process becomes visible. The brands behind in their sustainable transition will become visible, criticized, and perhaps even fined if laws are tightened.
Behavior: the last transition needed is our buying behavior, which we all hold power to change. On average each garment will be worn seven times before getting tossed (WSJ 2019). We can all buy fewer clothes and wear and treasure them for many years. This last change has to come from within; technology cannot change this.

WeAr: What represents your greatest challenge moving forward, and could you depict the design of tomorrow?

My greatest challenge is to keep on evolving, meaning creatively and evolving my vision. This has always been my greatest challenge as fashion creates a dialogue between our insides and our outsides.Both art and fashion are linked to our deepest desires, moods, and most personal expressions. Each collection we make is a search to reach beyond my understanding of female form and today’s definition of a garment. My greatest challenge is this continuous exploration of new forms of identity and a more conscious approach to fashion for the future.
We spoke about the brokenness of fashion’s system; on a contrary note, I have to talk about the positive transition the fashion community is going through. It has become so much more intellectual, inclusive, and conscious in recent years. Even the fashion press goes beyond the superficial and expresses politics, sustainability, and inclusivity. Fashion’s intellectual community is growing, and the young designers start from a very different perspective, wanting to do it differently, and looking for a new system of creativity. Being part of this new perspective, and steering it, is what is most important to me.

JOOR & Premium Group continue partnership with first fully hybrid trade show for SS23 in Berlin

JOOR & Premium Group continue partnership with first fully hybrid trade show for SS23 in Berlin

JOOR, the leading digital wholesale platform and data exchange, and Premium Group, Europe’s foremost provider of B2B fashion trade shows, have renewed their partnership to power the SS23 PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows through JOOR’s digital platform, underpinning their belief in the power of a hybrid approach to wholesale.

From the 7th to the 9th of July, buyers visiting the shows in Berlin will be able to learn more about and shop from exhibitors in a new hybrid way. Buyers can discover the full PREMIUM and SEEK portfolio of brands both in-person and online 24/7 by visiting JOOR Passport, JOOR’s digital trade show destination.

Premium Group unites its various show locations to one cosmos for SS23 at Messe Berlin, in the west of the capital. The PREMIUM and SEEK shows will be joined by two further components—The Ground is a D2C creative platform for brands and consumers to meet, connect, and collaborate through one-of-a-kind experiences, engaging content, and innovative products, while FASHIONTECH, features masterclasses and panel discussions from the fashion industry’s most brilliant minds. A calendar of content includes deep dives into strong, successful, and sustainable strategies. As part of the content offer, JOOR will facilitate a masterclass on ‘Digital Wholesale’ and a future-looking roundtable discussion with four leading fashion brands on the FASHIONTECH stage.

Throughout the duration of the show, in-person buyers and visitors will have the ability to shop via the Premium Group mobile app. By simply scanning a brand’s corresponding QR code, visitors will link to the brand’s custom profile on JOOR Passport and be able to shop collections directly on the platform. JOOR Passport will also extend the duration of the shows by up to three months, allowing brands to continue wholesale selling digitally outside the window of the physical show.

JOOR and Premium Group’s flexible hybrid format allows visitors and brands a seamless digital and physical introduction to each other and their collections, the opportunity to connect in an efficient, effective, and longer term way, and the convenience to shop the show 24 hours a day from anywhere in the world.

 

FASHN ROOMS opens additional(s) rooms

FASHN ROOMS opens additional(s) rooms

Düsseldorf: FASHION, ADDITIONALS & GREEN ROOM will be presented under one roof.

Ways out of uniformity towards more diversity and the perfect mix of product, emotion and experience will be offered by the Düsseldorf order show FASHN ROOMS, held from 23 to 25 July 2022. FASHN ROOMS is known for its high-quality selection of German and international brands from the fashion, footwear and accessories segments. Introducing the “ADDITIONALS” area FASHN ROOMS now open up new scope for complementary beauty and lifestyle products in the truest sense of the word. “The mix of fashion and beauty is perfect. We bring together what belongs together. And all of this in an inspiring venue,” says Igedo Company CEO Ulrike Kähler

In Addition, GREEN ROOM will offer SustainabIlity with ambition. More and more people want to be sure that retailers and manufacturers offer products that look good and comply with high ecological and social standards at the same time. For this type of shopper sustainability is a must-have rather than nice-to-have. In other words: sustainability is taken as a given. Fairness and eco-friendliness are reflected in both their daily lifestyle and their favourite looks. “We have observed for some time now that the interest in fair-production fashion continues to rise while good design and sustainable values are by no means mutually exclusive. On the contrary,” says a convinced Ulrike Kähler. FASHN ROOMS responds to this development with an innovative concept integrated into the existing, successful order platform: “With the new segment GREEN ROOM we offer retailers the unique opportunity to extend their ranges to include sustainable, fair fashion in a targeted manner. And all of this in one place. Both at the order show and at their own stores.”

NBA x Tommy Hilfiger: New capsule collection

NBA x Tommy Hilfiger: New capsule collection

Tommy Hilfiger has presented the new TOMMY JEANS collection in partnership with the National Basketball Association (NBA). The Capsule Collection celebrates basketball as part of American street culture with its local and diverse communities. It ties in with the roots of the Tommy Hilfiger brand in American street style and revives the 90s.

Inspired by basketball, the collection features casual cuts with NBA team logos printed all over. The soft hoodies, sweatpants, t-shirts and shorts can be combined with each other. Matching the fashion classics, there are varsity jackets and jeans for women. An absolute must for basketball and streetwear fans.

The TOMMY JEANS and NBA Capsule Collection is embedded in the global TOMMY JEANS Spring 2022 campaign “Play to Progress”. The campaign celebrates the power of individual creativity to grow societies.

Viola Davis, recipient of the 2022 Women in Motion Award

Viola Davis, recipient of the 2022 Women in Motion Award

The official dinner of Women In Motion, Kering’s program to highlight the invaluable contribution of women to the 7th art, took place Sunday, May 22, 2022, in Place de la Castre in the heights of Cannes, around a menu conceived by the starred chef of the Gucci Osteria, Karime Lopez.

On this occasion, François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering and Thierry Frémaux, General Delegate of the Festival de Cannes, presented the eighth Women In Motion Award to American actress and producer Viola Davis, who delivered a powerful speech, in the presence of the members of the Festival Jury. The Young Talent Award was given to Swedish director Ninja Thyberg.

Kering’s commitment to women is at the heart of the Group’s priorities and extends, through Women In Motion, to the field of arts and culture, where gender inequalities are still glaring, even though creation is one of the most powerful vectors for change.

In 2015, Kering launched Women In Motion at the Festival de Cannes with the ambition of highlighting women in cinema, both in front of and behind the camera. The program has since expanded in a major way to photography, but also to art, design, choreography and music. Through its Awards, the program recognizes inspirational figures and young female talent, while its Talks provide an opportunity for leading personalities to share their views on the representation of women in their profession.

For the past eight years, Women In Motion has been a platform of choice that contributes to changing mind sets and thinking on the place of women – and the recognition they receive – in the arts and culture.

 

 

Premium Group to return with new events cosmos this July

Premium Group to return with new events cosmos this July

Trade shows Premium and Seek and conference event FashionTech will all be making their return this year, set to take place in Berlin Messe, Germany, with the addition of a new D2C festival, The Ground. The collective, operated by Premium Group, will all take place from July 7 to 9 for its return to the group’s home city of Berlin for the coming season.

The new location Messe Berlin will become the Premium Group cosmos, a holistic inspirational hub for all relevant topics related to fashion, trends, retail, lifestyle, marketing, digitization, sustainability, metaverse and more.

“In order to remain sustainable, we want and need to merge B2B and D2C and create a place – a marketplace for ideas and products – where brands, retailers and consumers come together and learn from each other. For the first time, we are offering holistic reach, synergy and network effects,” explains Jörg Arntz, Managing Director Premium Group.

NanKnits creates a parallel world for Shanghai Fashion Week AW22 Collection Launch

NanKnits creates a parallel world for Shanghai Fashion Week AW22 Collection Launch

The metaverse; a concept only at the tipping point of this new era…. is starting to rapidly change and challenge the meaning of fashion itself. Nanhu, creative director and designer of NanKnits studios, forecasted this by creating this season’s AW2022 collection under the theme of “Future Era of Love” in a both a metaverse rendering of the collection and physical catwalk format.

“Interactive, creative digital spaces are a natural evolution of how people use technology, and they reflect the ever-growing amount of time consumers spend online. Gen Z spent an average of eight hours per day on screens in 2020” McKinsey

For GenZs, as more ‘second lives’ become important, fashion will play a key role in delivering creativity and self-expression in a parallel world. Because the concept is only at its inception; there is an underestimation of the current market value to individuals who want to express themselves in a virtual world with a virtual product/persona.

The futuristic knitting brand Nanknits breaks traditional knitwear/ shape rules by combining technology with true craftsmanship in order to create “wearable mobile sculptures”.

For the first time ever, Nan has transformed its works into digital format for this season’s theme of Love.

With a physical T stage being absent for this years SFW, the brand used a digital model to present the new collection in the Virtual Space.

CIFF August 2022: Circular Fashion Days

CIFF August 2022: Circular Fashion Days

CIFF will take place from August 10th till 12th, 2022. With this Lifestyle & Design Cluster will also host “Speakers Circles”, where visitors can register for guided tours as well as take part in the official talk stage program.

The national business cluster Lifestyle & Design Cluster has for several years been a bridge builder between fashion brands and knowledge institutions in working with circular economy.

Many companies are already in the process of transforming their business model into a more sustainable direction, and CIFF have already exhibited some of the innovative solutions and business ideas at Circular Fashion Days in 2021.

Director of CIFF Christina Neustrup is looking forward to the circular exhibition and overall partnership, which is open to everyone registered for CIFF: “We are happy to be able to welcome exhibitors working with circular solutions again this year. Already in 2021, we experienced great interest in Circular Fashion Days, where guests could experience examples of the green transformation that is so necessary for the fashion industry.”

10th edition of Future Fabrics Expo

10th edition of Future Fabrics Expo

Taking place on 28th and 29th June, 2022, the 10th edition of Future Fabrics Expo will present everything from traceable yarns to sustainable initiatives and more best-practice suppliers than ever before. Visitors will be able to source from thousands of fabrics and explore emerging innovations at the largest, dedicated showcase of globally sourced, commercially available sustainably and responsibly produced materials.

The fair’s extensive showcase of materials caters for all types of brands: from luxury to sports brands, high street retailers, emerging designers and small brands. Each fabric in our curated section is labelled with detailed sustainability information including environmental certifications, and contact details.

The fabrics on display have been carefully selected following our environmental criteria and will include materials from:

        Regenerative agricultural farming systems

        Alternative skin materials

        Regenerated cellulosics

        Recycled textiles (natural and synthetics)

        Textiles from pre- and post consumer waste

        Organic cottons

        Low impact wools and animal fibres

        Sustainable silks, linens and bast fibres

        Responsibly produced leather

        Innovations from mycelium 

        Next gen viscose 

        Fabric for small order quantities (SMOQs) 

 

Discover how fibres are grown and materials are made in relation to their impacts upon climate, biodiversity, soil and the oceans. Learn about the critical imperative to source responsibly, operate within planetary boundaries  in order to address climate change, secure sustainable supply chains and align with the Sustainable Development Goals.

The new location, Magazine London, is a purpose-built exhibition venue with excellent transport links offering 3,205 square metres of exhibition space. The state-of-the-art seminar area will allow us to seamlessly deliver our dynamic and highly popular seminar series, featuring the voices of global thought leaders and industry vanguards directly into the Expo experience.

Kering and the Festival de Cannes present the Young Talent Award

Kering and the Festival de Cannes present the Young Talent Award

As part of the eighth edition in Cannes of Women In Motion, Kering and the Festival de Cannes will present the Young Talent Award to a female film-maker who has directed her first feature film. The award, which is accompanied by €50,000 in financial support for her next movie project, will be presented during the official Women In Motion dinner on May 22, 2022.

During the ceremony, actress and producer Viola Davis will receive the Women In MotionAward. Both awards will be presented by François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering, Pierre Lescure, President of the Festival de Cannes, and Thierry Frémaux, Director of the Festival.

“I am very honored to have been chosen to receive this award by last year’s recipient Shannon Murphy. Making Pleasurewas a difficult but incredibly rewarding process and I am thrilled that it is now out there for everyone to see. I was so proud when it was accepted to Cannes in 2020, and as the film didn’t get to play due to the pandemic, this award is especially meaningful to me. Thank you so much to Women In Motion for supporting female directors – and thank you for this award.” Ninja Thyberg

Stone Island Anorak made in special edition for 40th Anniversary

Stone Island Anorak made in special edition for 40th Anniversary

The Stone Island Anorak is a special edition made for 40th Anniversary celebration. This Anorak is the faithful replica of the archive garment 85434 in Raso Gommato Colored Cover, Spring Summer ‘984.

Iconic fabric of the Stone Island aesthetic, Raso Gommato has been declined in 40 years of history in numerous variations. The wind resistant polyurethane film, bonded to a cotton satin of military origin is interpreted time after time to obtain targeted aspects through specific dyeing recipes on the finished garment.

This 40th Anniversary special edition introduces Raso Gommato Cover Colorato Bio, made of 100% organic cotton coupled with polymers deriving from 52% biomass, hence components of biological origin. Garment dyed with the addition of a perfluorocarbons free anti-drop agent.

The insert on the top forms the hood, with drawstring in the edge, and houses the front half zip. Raw edge seams. Central pocket on the chest, closed by horizontal zip. Standing hand pockets on the front.

On the bottom, application of the Archival Compass patch, special edition for the 40th anniversary of Stone Island. Wide armholes, with ventilation eyelets. Stone Island Marina print on the left sleeve. Velcro at cuffs. Elasticated tape in the bottom hem, on the front and on sides.

PITTI _ ISLAND: The theme for the 2022 Summer fairs

PITTI _ ISLAND: The theme for the 2022 Summer fairs

PITTI _ ISLAND is the theme for the 2022 summer editions of the Pitti Immagine fairs. A concept expressed by all the communication (ads, video, and social media) curated by the creative director Angelo Figus and the Narente duo, Lucio Aru and Franco Erre, who have been entrusted with the entire visual part of the campaign. The production will also strongly characterize the installations at the Fortezza da Basso by the architect Alessandro Moradei.

“As a fixed point, an island is both a physical and spiritual point, especially for meeting and exchanging ideas. A concentrated area, a laboratory that experiments, multiplies, and diversifies. Land of discoveries, explorations, a visionary land that moves away from things to be able to identify them. In constant communication with the mainland, the island does not isolate itself, but engages in continuous exchanges of spirits and paths. This exotic, urban and magical island will entertain and amaze you again.”

Marni x Uniqlo collaborate on a collection

Marni x Uniqlo collaborate on a collection

UNIQLO x MARNI collection comprises of 9 womenswear items, 10 menswear items, and 1 accessory item, ranging from socks and shirts to dresses, trousers and jackets.

UNIQLO and MARNI playfully explore the clash between purity and chaos in this collection of wardrobe essentials designed for everyone and the everyday. This out-of-the-box proposition combines UNIQLO’s functionality and fabric innovation with MARNI’s unique sensibility for colour, shape, and print.

The collection launches in Uniqlo stores and online on 19 May.

G-Star The Art Of Raw platform

G-Star The Art Of Raw platform

G-Star has launched its new platform The Art of Raw. The latter is a new platform for young award-winning design talents to create art pieces with denim waste. Continuing the brand’s dedication to the craftsmanship of denim, they are collaborating with various artists to explore the possibilities of denim.

The first participating artist of the project is Teun Zwets. Born in 1992, he graduated from the Design Academy Eindhoven in 2020, and won the Kazerne Award which has allowed him to establish himself in the international art scene thanks to his creations mostly made from material waste. For The Art of Raw, he designed the furniture object “Denim Living” which launched this month, April, on the 14th.

“Pushing the creative boundaries with a series of new art objects, created by artists who inspire us today.”

CFDA announces finalists of 2022 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

CFDA announces finalists of 2022 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has announced the finalists of its 2022 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. This year’s finalists will each receive funding and mentorship, a continuation of the 2021 rule changes after emerging designers were greatly affected during the pandemic.

The ten finalists are Jacques Agbobly of Black Boy Knits, Elena Velez, Fe Noel, Lauren Harwell Godfrey, Taofeek Abijako of Head of State, Conley Averett of Judy Turner, Colm Dillane of Kidsuper, Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph of No Sesso, Omar Salam of Sukeina and Jackson Wiederhoeft.

“Our ten finalists are a wonderful reminder that great fashion isn’t only wildly creative, but that it comes with a conscience,” said Anna Wintour, Chief Content Officer, Condé Nast, and Global Editorial Director, Vogue. “I’m so proud of this year’s group; they represent the very best of what America can be—and what it can stand for.

Sapphire Finishing Mills Limited x Cordura Advanced Fabric capsule collection

Sapphire Finishing Mills Limited x Cordura Advanced Fabric capsule collection

Inspired by iconic utility silhouettes from the past, such as workwear overalls from the Gold Rush era, Americana inspired cowboy classics and vintage tactical, the latest Sapphire Finishing Mills Limited and CORDURA Advanced Fabrics partnership explores the versatility of CORDURA NYCO Fabrics re-imagined for today’s urban living and crossover lifestyles at Kingpins Amsterdam.

The new capsule collection comprises over 20 different CORDURA NYCO Fabrics using a broad range of weaves (canvases, twills, rip stops), weights (180 to 350 GSM) and finishes (mechanical and chemical including wax coating, DWR, insect repellent and more). The fabric selection combines the comfort of cotton, the durability of nylon 6,6 and engineered stretch and stretch-recovery properties. This versatile fabric collection offers adaptable solutions for the creation of flexible, comfortable, hard-wearing garments with long-lasting performance.

“We’re excited to debut this latest combination of light, strong, soft, stretchy and smart CORDURA NYCO Fabricconstructions. With combinations of unique technologies, this new collection is pushing the boundaries of comfort, flex, durability and ultimately sustainability due to the built-in longevity of CORDURA NYCO Fabric technology,” says Deirdre Jennings, Business Development Manager, Sapphire Finishing Mills Limited.

“With the crossover lifestyle trend, consumers are looking for apparel that they can use for both work and leisure pursuits. Traditional boundaries are changing – our customers are taking inspiration for their products from a wide variety of markets such as outdoor, protective wear, heritage, and workwear. Combining working from home, travel and exercise, is the new reality. We are applying our knowledge of durable fiber and fabric technologies to help shape and define the apparel of tomorrow, and we are thrilled to collaborate with Sapphire Finishing Mills Limited on their latest CORDURA NYCO Fabric collection“, says Cindy McNaull, CORDURA® Business Development Director.

Fondation Louis Vuitton announces spring 2022 exhibitions

Fondation Louis Vuitton announces spring 2022 exhibitions

Following the resounding success of the Morozov Collection exhibition, the Fondation Louis Vuitton will inaugurate two new exhibitions, “La Couleur en Fugue”, and  “Simon Hantaï (1922-2008) – the Centenary Exhibition”, set to run simultaneously from May through the end of August.

Presented on the top level of the Foundation from May 4 through August 29, “La Couleur en fugue” (“Color Flees”) invites paint to escape the limits of the canvas, occupying space stretching from walls and floors to ceilings. Works by five internationally-renowned artists from diverse backgrounds and generations dialogue with Frank Gehry’s stunning architecture.

From May 18 to August 29 visitors will also have a chance to discover a retrospective exhibition celebrating the centenary of the birth of French-Hungarian artist Simon Hantaï, curated by Anne Baldassari. Over 130 of his works, many of which have never been shown before, will span three levels of the Fondation. The display of pieces from the artist’s workshop collection, the majority of which are being shown for the first time, includes some 15 historical works, in addition to four paintings that are part of the Fondation Louis Vuitton collection. Simon Hantaï’s paintings are being exhibited alongside those of major artists who had an influence on him, notably Henri Matisse and Jackson Pollock. They are joined by works of peers and friends such as Michel Parmentier and Daniel Buren. What’s more, in tribute to Simon Hantaï, an exceptional in situ work by Daniel Buren will punctuate the exhibition itinerary.

35th edition of Milano Unica

35th edition of Milano Unica

On July 12, 13 and 14, 2022, the 35th edition of Milano Unica returns to the three-day duration showcasing the Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collections. The 35th edition of Milano Unica will welcome exhibitors and visitors at Rho Fiera Milano suggesting exhibition itineraries and “creative pretexts” that have been anticipated at the end of March on the occasion of the presentation event of the Fall/Winter 2023-2024 Tendenze.

The long-awaited appointment with the physical edition of the Trade Show confirms the unfailing commitment of Milano Unica as a point of reference for the textile and apparel accessories industry with a three-day trade show featuring a wealth of creative ideas and content projects presented in full compliance with all the applicable safety standards.

Stone Island SS22: Heat Reactive Lamy with Cotton Linen Tela

Stone Island SS22: Heat Reactive Lamy with Cotton Linen Tela

Hooded blouson made in a hyper-light nylon fabric bonded to an outer thermo-sensitive polyurethane film that changes colour according to temperature. 

The micro-encapsulated coloured pigment molecules embedded in the fabric gradually mutate and dim their colour when the temperature rises, returning to their original colour when the temperature falls: from yellow to orange, from light to bluette. 

The bottom part of the piece is made in a stretch linen/cotton tela. Treated with a special anti-drop agent. 

Protective hood with visor, contour elasticated drawstring; important storm flap held by snap and Velcro. In-seam hand pockets with hidden zipper fastenings. Stone Island white textile research badge on the left sleeve. Tightening zip under the sleeves and on sides. Tightening snap at bottom sides. 

Artistic Milliners expands garment production capacity 30% with latest state-of-the-art factory

Artistic Milliners expands garment production capacity 30% with latest state-of-the-art factory

Artistic Milliners takes another step in its mission to build the factory of the future with the opening of a state-of-the-art garment facility focused on Industry 4.0 principles and sustainability initiatives, along with a human resources strategy designed to promote inclusivity and equity.

The facility represents a $60 million investment to increase Artistic Milliners’ production output and, at the same time, make a substantial commitment to gender equity in employment.

The new facility joins AM’s growing ecosystem of end-to-end vertical apparel manufacturing. The factory is located within Artistic Milliners’ AM-4 apparel park. Spread over nine acres in Karachi, AM-4 employs more than 10,500 workers, has on-site daycare and employee training facilities and follows the highest safety standards.

“The opening of this facility is an opportunity to put into practice our vision for the future of apparel production,” said Murtaza Ahmed, Artistic Milliners’ Managing Director. “We see this as a model factory, one where the latest technological innovations in efficiency and sustainability meet the best employment practices in terms of women’s empowerment and well-being.”

Joor implements automated attribution capabilities through an exclusive partnership with Lily AI

Joor implements automated attribution capabilities through an exclusive partnership with Lily AI

Joor has announced an exclusive partnership with Lily AI, the retail industry’s most robust AI-powered image attribution and customer intent platform for e-commerce. Joining JOOR’s collection of innovative technology partners, Lily AI will enable JOOR platform users to significantly reduce the time dedicated to manually tagging products. This advanced integration allows retailers to better plan assortments in less time, and to optimize product discovery on their e-commerce sites.

JOOR retailers will improve their decision-making due to greater tagging detail and benefit from unparalleled tagging accuracy. As such, retailers no longer need to rely solely on brands to input product details. Retailers can quickly and directly tag the products within their e-commerce sites, leading to better product discovery and increased sales.

“Lily AI turns qualitative product attributes into a universal mathematical language at a high volume, with unprecedented accuracy. Our customer intent platform is driving significant revenue impact at some of the world’s leading retailers, and we are thrilled to create the same value for JOOR customers,” said Purva Gupta, co-founder, and CEO at Lily AI.

“We are proud to offer our customers a best-in-class assortment of ready-to-wear and accessories from over 1,000 established and emerging designers,” said Allison Reilly, Shopbop’s GMM of Accessories and Men’s. “JOOR’s Auto Attributio functionality anticipates assortment gaps, allows for bulk product detail implementation, and creates attribution efficiencies, which help us to deliver a customer-centric product offering.”

Now available: brand new issue 70 of WeAr Magazine

Now available: brand new issue 70 of WeAr Magazine

Our newest issue 70 of WeAr Magazine illustrates consumers’ evolving demands and highlights important topics to help our readers tackle uncertainty. To guide you through the upcoming seasons, we asked leading showrooms for their opinions of bestselling items, including brands and product categories, what is hip now, and what the future holds. Our reports reflect the agility of the market and underline the current positive prospects for the industry.

Get your digital or print copy here | https://www.wearglobalnetwork.com/publication/wear-global-magazine-issue-70/

First ever Metaverse Fashion Week

First ever Metaverse Fashion Week

From 24-27th of March, WeAr visited the Metaverse Fashion Week which offered both catwalk and shopping experiences displaying known brands as well as emerging talent.

This has been set up to ease people into familiar environments and aimed to replicate its counterparts in New York or Paris. Clearly as a response to the growing trend of virtual clothing which has been happening since the past two years and accelerated by the pandemic.

Brands like Perry Ellis, Dolce & Gabbana and Philip Plein presented collections on virtual runways, usually metaverse wearables (items that can be purchased and worn virtually in the Metaverse). Panel talks were hosted with the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, about Dressing Avatars, the Future of Commerce and Sustainability. And, naturally, there were “after parties”.

The whole programme could be viewed easily on a website and one could ‘jump in’ to participate in one of the programmes. This could either be done with an existing crypto wallet account or alternatively simply as a guest. Once a guest avatar was created one entered into the Metaverse Fashion Week which has a game like character including a map of the different locations where events where happening. Using keyboard and mouse the avatar could walk around, change perspectives, much like in familiar video games.

Dolce & Gabbana’s full look presentation on cat-faced avatars (a play on the word catwalk) were viable in an exclusive Dolce & Gabbana pop-up in Decentraland’s (the is one of the Metaverse worlds) Luxury Fashion District curated by marketplace UNXD.

Etro previewed a real-world collection at the show called Liquid Paisley including men’s and women’s styles alongside accessories.

Hogan and Giuseppe Zanotti meanwhile debuted NFT collections. Hogan set up a pop-up store in Decentraland, selling its physical products as redeemable NFTs n collaboration with Exclusible, a platform for luxury NFTs and metaverse activations. Giuseppe Zanotti worked with blue-chip NFT community DeadFellaz and the neon NFT marketplace to release a series of sneaker NFTs. The collaboration offers the digital-only ‘Cobras’ sneakers which was first available physically in 2021.

The event was open to the general public, not just fashion professionals or insiders. Being there as actual avatars also displayed how many people are around you. Many of those seemed to be regulars in the Metaverse which were there to explore ’the game’ as opposed to judge the fashion. Shopping (for NFTs etc) was the main part – maybe to get access to a garment which later on increases in value.

How successful this was, is hard to say. The general public yet has to be able to enter it.

Decentraland does offer access via desktop only (provided the computer has enough processing power) as opposed to needing a VR headset. However, after the pandemic, when IRL Events are increasing again the question begs: do people, who are not usually active in the virtual environment or are yet to be acquainted with it, trade in a sunny warm day in March to sitting in front of a laptop and viewing what can be googled thereafter?

AlphaTauri “100 Days Flagship Store Vienna” event

AlphaTauri “100 Days Flagship Store Vienna” event

One hundred days after the opening of its flagship store in Vienna, AlphaTauri welcomes over one hundred press and media representatives and friends of the brand for a cocktail event.

On the evening of 24th March guests enjoyed an exclusive shopping experience in an extraordinary atmosphere: amidst the futuristic store design and current spring/summer collection for women and men, AlphaTauri offers a holistic brand experience.

In the immediate vicinity of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the approx. 400 square metre store presents the latest collections, key looks and accessories for women and men across two stories. With a monochrome interior made of brushed aluminium – interspersed with natural materials – and custom-designed lighting, the store interior is itself a statement for the lively design language of AlphaTauri. The store furnishings reflect the innovative approach of the brand. The interplay of digital and innovative elements ensures a unique shopping experience and is part of the outstanding, customer-oriented concept.

With regard to innovation, visitors can submerse themselves in an “Experience Area” on the ground floor and learn more about 3D knitting technology. Alongside a more sustainable production approach, 3D knitting technology offers numerous other product and design advantages including improved comfort thanks to seam-free designs.

Taipei Fashion Week raises global visibility by partnering with Joor Passport

Taipei Fashion Week raises global visibility by partnering with Joor Passport

Taipei Fashion Week has partnered with JOOR PASSPORT for a second iteration of the “TPEFW Online Virtual Event” during the FW22 season. Launched on March 21st, the Taipei Fashion Week digital event on JOOR Passport showcased 27 Taiwanese designers and empower them to build long-term partnerships with international retailers, increasing opportunities for Taiwanese fashion brands to expand their markets globally.

“Asia has become a focal geographically for JOOR because of the large number of talented designers across the region,” said Kristin Savilia, CEO of JOOR. “It is exciting to once again power the virtual component of Taipei Fashion Week, which will play a critical role in the hybrid event taking place in late March. It is wonderful to see in-person shows returning, and JOOR is honoured to extend the reach of this event to a global audience.”

MICAM Milano promotes the fourth edition of the Emerging Designers

MICAM Milano promotes the fourth edition of the Emerging Designers

MICAM Milano promotes the fourth edition of the EMERGING DESIGNERS project, the event area located in Pav. 1E dedicated to 12 international shoe designers, selected through an innovative concept realised in collaboration with Honegger agency.

The applications of the international designers who have registered for the contest, have been evaluated by a jury of fashion and communication experts, chaired by the designer Ernesto Esposito. For the 2021 contest the jury was composed by Eva Geraldine Fontanelli, Mauro Galligari, Angelo Lanza, Maximilian Linz and Riccardo Slavik. 

The jury members have been invited to make an important contribution to the final selection of 12 Emerging Designers. They expressed their influential point of view, gained over the course of their professional and perso- nal path in fields such as fashion and communication which are constantly evolving. 

In fashion, more than in any other sectors, the involved actors have always had the ability to adapt themselves to the gre- at changes of the world, often foreseeing them. Just think how topical issues such as climate, economy, culture, so- ciety have played a key role in the latest fashion collections. 

The Emerging Designers selected by the jury established for the editions of September 2021 and March 2022 of MICAM will have access to a new renaissance scenery where fashion will have the main task of inspiring and drive creativity and innovation for the products that consumers will want to buy; through the purchasing choices, people will aim to strongly communicate their messages. 

“We are proud to say that we are receiving requests from all over the world to be part of the Emerging Designers Project. For the fourth year now, we have invested more and more on a project we strongly believe, and which is very important and strategic for the future of our event and for the footwear industry. 

Portugal Fashion Week: Celebrating 50 years of Portugal Fashion

Portugal Fashion Week: Celebrating 50 years of Portugal Fashion

Portugal Fashion Week has successfully completed its 50th edition.
The event, which took place March 16-19th 2022 in Porto’s Alfândega location, right by the river, did an excellent job in combining young designers, established ones, including both trade and consumers, and offered novel insights and experiences.

Portugal Fashion’s director Mónica Neto promised “a great, great edition” and one could tell that this open-minded, energetic organizer’s team carefully crafted an event with the aim to position Portuguese fashion further on the international calendar.

The format presented a showroom for buyers and press, almost 40 runway shows as well as panel talks. Emerging designers from Portugal and those with Portuguese connections were presented alongside, surprisingly, African once. Through a partnership between ANJE (National Association of Young Entrepreneurs) and CANEX (Creative African Nexus) 20 designers with African roots showed their work on catwalks and in the showroom to promote the African textile and clothing industry.

The Bloom platform presented young fashion designers alongside renowned Portuguese labels, all of them displaying their latest A/W 22/23 creations throughout clothing, footwear, and accessories. Known designers included David Catalán, who previously showed on Milan’s official calendar, Ernest W. Baker, Pé de Chumbo and Susana Bettencourt, all no foreigners to international trade fairs. Shows which especially stood out were NOPIN, DAVII and HUARTE . NOPIN, a sustainable brand, presenting the collection for the first time at Portugal Fashion Week, creates playful womenswear using geometric forms and textures to stand out. DAVII reminds of Rick Owens’ designs: futuristic goddesses walked past in an eerie setting wrapped in silky, flowing fabrics. Bloom’s young designer Victor Huarte presented his menswear collection HUARTE, which was perceived especially well with the international audience. Preppy streetwear in Americana style was mainly dipped in the current trend color green.
However, the event also reminded that Portugal is a hub for the footwear industry with Luís Onofre’s collection, whose footwear creations spark creativity alongside other commercial names like Fly London.

Alongside multiple networking events, the event also aligned with the opening of the exhibition “Portugal Pop. Fashion in Portuguese. 1970-2020” at Casa do Design. If one hasn’t grasped it during the shows, latest at this exhibition Portugal’s fashion craftsmanship was highlighted. This should come as no surprise, as it is one of Europe’s prime destinations for textile production.

Whilst Portugal is still finding its place on the European fashion map, the country with endless beaches and high quality of life offers a sparkling fashion scene that is rich in creativity and innovation. Full with young visionary people, there is a lot to be expected in the next years and one can already look forward to the Spring/Summer event. For all buyers a top tip is to find a rare truffle to complement a store’s selection.

Neonyt: adapted concept for summer 2022

Neonyt: adapted concept for summer 2022

From 24 to 26 June 2022, the new Neonyt Lab will bring together a variety of formats in Frankfurt am Main aimed at the entire sustainable cross-sector community 

In a central location in Frankfurt am Main, Neonyt – as a progressive trend platform and the most important meeting place for sustainable fashion and textiles industry – will also be presenting the topic of sustainability to end consumers. The community can expect three inspiring days with a wide-ranging programme: fashion show, D2C trade show, conference and showcases, content creator event and networking space – the new Neonyt Lab invites brands, consumers, buyers, designers, trendsetters and fashion enthusiasts to inform themselves and exchange ideas on the most pressing topic of our time. “In the last few years, we have attracted a lot of interest from end consumers,” says Bettina Bär, Show Director of Neonyt. “We strive to constantly develop and improve and want to ensure that our formats encourage a knowledge transfer and exchange of ideas centred around the overarching of sustainability within the most diverse of target groups. That is why we are opening up our community even more to end consumers and taking the cross-sector relevance of Neonyt to the next level.” 

In addition to this forward-looking meeting of international leading textile fairs Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil Summer Special and the progressive Neonty Lab, Messe Frankfurt is working intensively on the further expansion of the B2B community platform Neonyt. With creative and decentralized approaches as well as an internationalization of the format, Neonyt as the most important hub of the sustainable textile and fashion industry will drive the exchange of the sustainability community worldwide and offer brands a profitable, innovative platform with even greater reach in the future. 

Frankfurt Fashion Week: Summer 2022

Frankfurt Fashion Week: Summer 2022

Everything in Frankfurt am Main is set to revolve around the Frankfurt Fashion Week from 20 to 26 June 2022. Exhibitions, shows, talks, etc., will bring to life the subjects of sustainability, fashion, lifestyle and fashion culture. Parallel to this, Messe Frankfurt will bundle its globally oriented events for the textile and fashion industry and spotlight themes of relevance to the international fashion sector within the framework of the Fashion Week. The events concerned are the leading textile trade fairs, Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil Summer Edition. Furthermore, many of Neonyt’s innovative business and experiential formats focusing on the mega trend of sustainability will be held at locations in downtown Frankfurt. 

Frankfurt’s mayor, Peter Feldmann, is delighted: “Frankfurt is the place for fashion – and there will be no doubt about this after the coming summer’s Frankfurt Fashion Week. Our local design and fashion world has no need to be shy and, with the Frankfurt Fashion Week, has a great opportunity to present itself in all its diversity. Moreover, by focusing on sustainability, we also demonstrate what Frankfurt am Main stands for today as a green city. This is also the focus of Neonyt that, together with the leading textile trade fairs, will expand the programme for consumers to include a comprehensive, internationally oriented range of products and services for trade visitors from the European textile and fashion sector. And this is only possible here in Frankfurt.” 

Putting the focus on outstanding innovations and sustainable production processes of the fashion industry, Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for textiles and nonwovens, Texprocess, the leading international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials, and Heimtextil Summer Edition, international trade fair for home and contract textiles, will be held at Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Centre from 21 to 24 June 2022. Thus, Messe Frankfurt continues to forge ahead with its strategic concentration of profitable events, including the Textiles & Textile Technologies Business Unit. These established events bring together creativity, high-tech, application diversity and expertise. The world’s leading textile companies and driving forces of innovation are expected for one of the first international trade events to be held in Frankfurt following the enforced corona break. 

Thus, the summer events in Frankfurt will depict the complete international manufacturing and value chain of the textile and fashion industry whereby progressive and sustainable aspects will be presented and discussed in a more holistic and interdisciplinary way than ever before as we continue our close working relationship with the Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network in cooperation with the United Nations Office for Partnerships. In this connection, the 17 sustainable development goals (SDGs) of the United Nations are set to be of particular significance. 

#BetterTogether Spring edition closes with just under 30,000 trade visitors

#BetterTogether Spring edition closes with just under 30,000 trade visitors

Over the five-day period, a total of 29,468 trade visitors from both Italy and abroad attended the four trade-fairs dedicated to fashion and accessories.

MICAM, the International Footwear Exhibition, MIPEL, the event dedicated to leather goods and fashion accessories, THE ONE MILANO, the Haut-à-Porter Exhibition and HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition, have shown once again that, by joining forces, it is possible to tackle the difficult international situation successfully.

United under the #BetterTogether hashtag and with the support of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) which promotes foreign trade and Italy’s exports, the trade fairs showcased the products of over 1400 brands – the best that each sector has to offer – transforming the fair area into an exceptional business and networking opportunity thanks to this unique shared project.

With a packed programme of seminars and events, the fairs also confirmed that they provide an increasingly important opportunity for exploring subjects of topical interest for their respective business sectors.
These included digitalization, the metaverse and new ways of doing retail, increasingly linked to big data. Particular attention was also paid to sustainability and slow fashion, both on the exhibition level and as subjects for discussion.

Naia from Eastman releases industry loungewear insights

Naia from Eastman releases industry loungewear insights

The global pandemic has driven consumer preference for comfortable loungewear, and the latest research conducted by Naia from Eastman proves it is a trend with staying power. 

When surveyed, 78% of women in the U.S. and Europe selected comfort as their top priority when selecting loungewear. Other findings show 74% of respondents dressed more casually at home and 66% are also choosing to dress more casually outside of the home. 

Consumers also want more comfortable fabrics and more versatile loungewear and will likely purchase more loungewear items in the future. The survey results showed 61% of women investing in more casual clothing, with 44% reducing the amount of formal clothing in their wardrobes. They also prefer more sustainable loungewear with new and different fibers and would like brands to offer more of those options. 

The study also highlighted a satisfaction gap among consumers who wanted better loungewear comfort, fit, quality, drape and durability. With Naia, Eastman aims to collaborate with brands to fill this gap and help them enhance the consumer shopping journey.

Loungewear has become the must-have item in every woman’s closet,” said Ruth Farrell, marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “Our insights aim to help brands understand how today’s consumers define comfort and sustainability with regards to loungewear. With two-thirds of consumers wanting more sustainable options in their loungewear fibers, Naia is perfectly positioned to help our value-chain partners create comfortable, quality, sustainable loungewear that is accessible to all.” 

Burberry opens Paris flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré

Burberry opens Paris flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré

Burberry has opened the doors of a new Paris flagship – the first freestanding store in the region to feature the luxury label’s new global design concept.

Located in the heart of the luxury design district, the opening continues Burberry’s rich and celebrated history with the French capital – a destination in which Founder, Thomas Burberry, opened his first international store in 1909. Now over 100 years later, the new flagship store offers an opportunity to fully experience the British luxury brand in a unique space that connects Burberry’s past, present and future.

Designed in collaboration with renowned architect Vincenzo de Cotiis, the three-story flagship store sees iconic house codes stylistically reinterpreted and luxuriously realised. Taking inspiration from the evolution of the signature Burberry check, the concept couples mirrored ceilings with intersecting metallic grids and roaming tiled chequerboard floors, each reflecting one another and creating a sense of openness. The core colours of the iconic check – beige, black, white and red – are also explored throughout the store in a variety of textures, from concrete and ceramics to high-gloss finishes, juxtaposing brutalist elements with luxurious materials to create a distinctly modern feel.

Stone Island Shadow Project Spring/Summer 22

Stone Island Shadow Project Spring/Summer 22

The Stone Island Shadow Project Spring Summer ‘022 continues to investigate menswear archetypes, fit, material research and detail-oriented design.The collection takes the renewed conceptuality of the collection inaugurated in 2021 to a new level, creating 2 different chapters specifically to address the needs of function and use.

Both chapters are an extensive exploration of naturally high-performing materials blended with man-made materials to serve as protection and to create shapes.

Chapter 2 addresses the warm to hot season, announcing exploration and escape, the research on cooling down is featured in relaxed fits, a sense of summer daze ‘groundedness’ paired with a sense of escapism.

 

Jeanologia introduces Colorbox: revolutionary technology for garment dying

Jeanologia introduces Colorbox: revolutionary technology for garment dying

Jeanologia, leaders in sustainable and eco-efficient technology development, introduces Colorbox, a revolutionary technology for garment dying transforming the traditional way that garments are dyed in an efficient and faster process that respects the environment.

The dying is one of the most polluting processes in the fashion industry and with high production costs. Jeanologia is committed to creating an ethical and ecoefficient textile industry.

Colorbox reduces the environmental impact of the garment dying process, reducing resource use and pollution load of wastewater. Through the right combination of Jeanologia technologies, the company provides the industry with advanced technical solutions, guaranteeing better production results at a lower environmental and production cost.

Enrique Silla, CEO at Jeanologia, states that Colorbox considerably reduces water, chemical, energy and salts use in comparison with traditional garment dying processes, allowing a low EIM score. “The average saving for water and chemicals is 60%, 45% for energy and 76% for salt in garment dying”.

New Berlin event by the Premium Group to launch this summer

New Berlin event by the Premium Group to launch this summer

For the summer events at the Berlin exhibition center, the Premium Group is relying on a completely new mix of fashion, business, content and entertainment. The Premium Group is expanding its portfolio in the summer to include the consumer festival THE GROUND in addition to the existing PREMIUM and SEEK trade fairs and is presenting numerous innovations for the long-awaited reunion of the industry in Berlin.

The new location Messe Berlin will become the Premium Group cosmos, a holistic inspirational hub for all relevant topics related to fashion, trends, retail, lifestyle, marketing, digitization, sustainability, metaverse and more.

In July, brands and partners can also present themselves to end consumers for the first time as part of the new event THE GROUND, ‘Direct to Consumer’. Consumers get access to THE GROUND, while trade visitors are invited to view the full range and be inspired throughout the site.

 

PREMIUM: New tripartition with new segments

In order to be able to show all relevant segments of advanced contemporary fashion even better and more holistically, the PREMIUM portfolio will be divided into three new areas from the summer. With the segmentation into High, Icon & Volume, large, commercially successful brands as well as more focused designer brands, newcomers and smaller innovators will now find their place. Here the PREMIUM fashion team advises all partners in detail in order to guarantee ideal positioning and the possibility of storytelling.

 

SEEK: Premiere of the SEEK Conscious Club

Sustainability has been part of the culture of the SEEK brand since it was founded 12 years ago. This is where people who share a common vision have always come together, this is where the community meets. With the new SEEK Conscious Club, in addition to the SEEK area with well-known and new SEEKERS, a dedicated area for sustainable brands is being created. SEEK offers them the stage and space to grow and the attention to optimally spread brand values. The international SEEK community is represented by niche brands as well as commercially successful players.

 

THE GROUND: Festival for Style & Culture

With the new Direct to Consumer Festival THE GROUND, the Premium Group is now also inviting Gen-Z, Gen-Y and Culture Pioneers once a year. Music acts, panels and live talks with well-known speakers and influencers, creative workshops, sports and wellbeing sessions are intended to inspire, enrich, enlighten and inspire exchange: entertainment, edutainment and experiences.

THE GROUND turns live streams into live encounters, consumers into co-creators and classic retailers into strategic marketing and event partners. Here, through emotional experiences and unique showcases, brands can be experienced and interested customers become loyal brand fans. Topics relevant to society and generations, such as fashion, sports, beauty & well-being, metaverse & gaming, will be featured in the area as well as in talks and master classes as part of the FASHIONTECH content format.

Stone Island Marina SS’022 Collection

Stone Island Marina SS’022 Collection

Navy-inspired functionality and aesthetics applied to active garments with man-made, linear and performance fabrics featuring a tone-on-tone logo, red star and lettering on seam tape make up the Stone Island Marina SS’022 Collection.

In solid colour or in marine camouflage, inspired by divers’ wetsuits hand-painted to simulate the seabed. The outerwear is in 3L GORE-TEX IN RECYCLED POLYESTER: the outer lace is made of recycled polyester, bonded with the thin GORE-TEX membrane, extremely breathable, durably waterproof and to tally windproof. 

The intangible internal protection mesh is as well made of paste coloured recycled polyester, with great savings in water and chemical agents. The heat seam-taped garment is treated with an anti-drop agent.