Canadian premium outerwear and accessories brand Nobis is
launching its first capsule collection designed in collaboration with Toronto Raptors centre and NBA champion Serge Ibaka.
Known for his #BigScarfEnergy, Ibaka teamed up with Nobis to help create a genderless collection that features nine limited-edition pieces, including a parka, anorak, bomber jacket, vests, hats and, of course, scarves. The highly anticipated capsule collection is available in store and online starting November 19, 2020.
“I’m thrilled to collaborate with Nobis on my first fashion collection. Nobis is very simple and chic, which made me really fall in love with the brand, making them the perfect partner,” says Ibaka. “Getting dressed to me is an art, and I wanted to express myself through this collection and share it with my fans.”
After the September edition of #STRONGERTOGETHER, the organisers of the 5 events have consolidated plans to repeat the #STRONGERTOGETHER project in March 2021. The trade fairs in the fashion system will once again be held on the same dates, March 20 through 24, 2021, at a single location, the Fieramilano Rho trade fair centre.
MICAM Milano (the international footwear show), MIPEL (the international event for leather goods and accessories) and TheONE Milano (the women’s haut-à-porter fashion event featuring the best fabric, fur and leather apparel) will all open from Sunday March 21 to Tuesday March 23, 2021, one day less than in the last edition. The #strongertogether trade fairs will be completed with LINEAPELLE, on March 23 and 24, 2021, featuring the most innovative and exclusive leathers, fabrics, accessories and components for fashion and design.
The successful format of #strongertogether will be repeated: the first edition in September welcomed more than 16 thousand visitors (25% of whom came from abroad) with the goal of giving enterprises a helping hand at a particularly difficult time. The organisers are already working on intercepting and selecting buyers with even greater precision thanks to support from MISE and the Italian Trade Agency, whose support has always been essential.
At the end of January 2021, Düsseldorf will once again aim to prove itself as a firmly established destination for international fashion orders: Gallery FASHION & Shoes, with the Fashion Bridge to Supreme Women & Men, is planning to hold its regular order event as scheduled.
“Here at Igedo we are optimistic that responsibly organised order events will be possible again from the end of January 2021. Like in March and September 2020, Gallery FASHION & Shoes obviously guarantees the strictest adherence to all official regulations and guidelines, while also ensuring a positive atmosphere for people to finally meet up in. As a partner of the industry, it is incredibly important to us to show consistency and to also continue offering a physical platform – and the Areal Böhler in Düsseldorf provides the best conditions for that.” – Ulrike Kähler Managing Director of Igedo Company
A few weeks ago, Denim Première Vision announced the launch of a new event format: the DIGITAL DENIM WEEK. This 100% digital show will fully replace the physical edition of the show initially scheduled for November 24 and 25 in Berlin, assisting and accelerating the industry’s growing move to digital, where initiatives are being strongly catalyzed by the health crisis.
Via an online platform, Denim Première Vision is set to run for a full week, from November 30 to December 4, to present the new collections of materials from over 50 exhibitors, and the very latest product developments for Spring-Summer 22. The DIGITAL DENIM WEEK will also showcase a dive into the heart of the specifics of the season – from trends to products and materials – featuring targeted talks by selected key players and experts, as well as a program of conferences and masterclasses to meet the industry’s emerging challenges.
To help the industry organize its plans, and because meetings and discussions between buyers and suppliers at physical trade shows is of the utmost importance for the sector, Denim Première Vision is committed to holding its two editions in 2021:
In Milan on May 25 & 26 at SUPERTSUDIO PIÙ,
for the autumn/winter 2022-23 denim developments.
In Berlin on November 16 & 17 at the ARENA BERLIN, to discover the spring summer 23 collections.
The winter editions of the Pitti Immagine fairs have all been moved to 21-23 February 2021: in Florence, along the Fortezza da Basso-Stazione Leopolda axis, keeping the focus on the individual identities of Uomo, Filati and Bimbo. A system choice in order to consolidate the Italian calendar of fashion presentations and valorize the qualities and integration of the production chain.
“Following the latest Prime Ministerial order extending the suspension of international trade fairs until 3rd December ” says Claudio Marenzi “ we began to reflect on the real possibility of organizing the fairs starting from 12 January, the date set for Uomo, concluding that the margin of time available was truly meager and the situation still too uncertain. We had also received a lot of requests from exhibitors and buyers who, reiterating the need to return to a quality physical event, asked for more time to present the collections and organize their presence in Florence. Basically: in the face of these requests directed towards ourselves as well as the market, we decided to postpone the start of the cycle by five weeks and come up with an innovative formula for the ensemble of fairs in the hope and belief that, in the meantime, the conditions and authorizations for holding fair events would have been restored”.
“In order to identify the new dates and plan a rendezvous that would be capable of coping with the exceptional phase we are going through ”continues Marenzi “ we followed three criteria: the fairs should be held in a useful period for the sales campaigns; the identity of each fair should be preserved and, at the same time, it should give a strong system signal with regard to both the production-commercial chain which represents a specific value of Italian fashion, as well as the Italian calendar of fashion presentations (resulting in the decision to take the three days prior to the opening of the Camera della Moda fashion week in Milan). We were thus certain that we would also receive the strong approval of national institutions like MAECI and ICE (the Italian Foreign Trade Promotion and Internationalization Agency) – which have guaranteed their significant support, as well as local institutions”.
“We are aware that by around the third week of February the sales campaigns of the collections will already be at an advanced stage ”points out Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine“ but we know that there will still be good portfolio margins for buyers, especially all those who feel the need to have a precise, physical contact with stylish products of high manufacturing value. And that’s not all: we will be opening the Connect digital platform to exhibitors well in advance. We have been working very hard on this platform over the last few months in order to boost the collection of orders and expand the editorial coverage. We are organizing a big promotion of our online sales system that will reach top buyers all over the world. Finally, we have already prepared all the necessary safety measures, from entrance checks to the planning of visits to the stands, to a design of the layout furnishings that takes into account social distancing and constant sanitization. An undertaking to which we have totally committed ourselves”.
WOMENSWEAR TREND: COUNTRY GETAWAY
[Left] Runway Look Dior [Right] Salvatore Ferragamo
Getting out into the country was a theme in multiple S/S 21 presentations. After months spent indoors, an emergence of such a sensibility seems almost unavoidable. Organic colors infused the collections, which used intricately detailed fabrics in simple silhouettes.
The Jacquemus collection, presented on a runway in a wheat field in the French countryside, used larger, looser silhouettes and unfussy tailoring. The collection was imbued with natural, muted colors like sage, ecru, black and clay. Flowing bias-cut dresses, oversized trousers and unstructured blazers recalled a simple country wedding, in designer Simon Porte Jacquemus own words.
The Dior Cruise 2021 collection, presented in the center of Lecce, Italy, was a spectacle that paid homage to the Italian countryside in the southern province of Puglia. With fringed skirts, headscarves and embroidered dresses, the collection featured a black gauzy material, warm whites and grays on intricately handwoven fabrics. Muted reds and greens rounded out the colors in the collection.
Salvatore Ferragamo used eco-friendly fabrics throughout an elegant and distilled collection comprising sleek silhouettes, clean lines and organic materials. Burnt orange, tan, beige and black infused a collection focused on sustainability with responsibly sourced materials like upcycled leather and cashmere, recycled nylon and organic cotton. Photographed in the countryside of Provence, France, the See by Chloé Resort 2021 collection imbued playful clothing designed for relaxing in with hues of sage, peach, burgundy and sand. And Ermanno Scervino Resort 2021, photographed in Tuscany, Italy, presented intricate knits and lace details, ruffled white dresses, and gauzy skirts with plissé inserts. Colors were whites, with a smattering of pastel pink, and pistachio green; perfect for getting lost in a field on a lazy summer afternoon.
MENSWEAR TREND: A LOVE LETTER TO NATURE
[Left] Etro [Middle] Ermenegildo Zegna [Right] Reese Cooper
“A moment like this can easily lead to a glorification of flawless precision of the machine but at Ermenegildo Zegna, with respect for a humanist tradition that is profoundly Italian, we believe that the human being always sits at the center, in harmony with nature.” This is how artistic director Alessandro Sartori explained the vision behind his S/S 21 collection that features soft and elegant knitwear with foliage-inspired patterns. The brand (which turns 110 this year) celebrates a strong connection with nature, seeing it not just as a provider of resources and raw materials but also recognizing the need to preserve its richness and diversity.
At Gucci, flower embroideries appear on a seventies-style sleeveless fur coat, a suit and a trench coat. Volumes are fluid like water at Etro, where shirts feature beautiful flower prints, too. Pebbles and stones seen in rivers have inspired a print in Reese Cooper’s accessories line; the models in the brand’s show walked barefoot through a brook in the wilderness, hinting at the need to reconnect with the Earth. His color palette comprised vivid green, orange and fruit colors.
The world of tailoring and classic menswear explored similar topics. Lardini is inspired by a bamboo forest through which the sun filters, by water games, by the intensity of hues seen in flowers and birds as depicted in Oriental art. Roberto Collina explores earthy shades – from cream to beige – and is enchanted with the shades of the sky: powder blue, navy blue and sapphire. And Paoloni proposed an unlined shirt jacket, both in cotton and light linen, with paintings in a bursting color palette of summer fruits.
Kering and all its Houses are participating in the China International Import Expo (CIIE) for the second consecutive year, presenting its corporate signature “Empowering Imagination” and strategic vision of “Modern Luxury”, as well as profiling its important work in the world of biodiversity.
“In attending the CIIE this year, we appreciate and value this important opportunity to present Kering’s vision for the ongoing evolution of the luxury industry, and the role it can play in helping ensure a sustainable future. Moreover, we hope to expand our partnership with our business partners and stakeholders in China to further craft tomorrow’s Luxury together,” said Cai Jinqing, President of Kering Greater China.
“Taking an evolutionary approach to the design initiated in 2019, Buro Ole Scheeren delivers the latest iteration of an immersive and distinctive environment for this year’s Kering pavilion at the China International Import Expo (CIIE) 2020. In keeping with Kering’s commitment to environmental stewardship, Buro Ole Scheeren’s semi-modular design has been refreshed, reshuffled and redeployed. The pavilion reuses 66% of the overall material weight. Consisting of a series of rose-hued display cubes, prismatic vitrines, multimedia installations and iconic works of fashion from the Kering brands, this year’s pavilion is an imaginative statement on sustainability with style.” Ole Scheeren, Principal of Buro Ole Scheeren remarked.
Fendi’s “Hand in Hand” project celebrates the vast diversity and unique quality of Italian craftsmanship. The Italian Maison invited 20 ateliers representing the country’s 20 regions to interpret the iconic Baguette bag – designed in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director for Accessories and Men’s collections. The designer plans to expand this unprecedented project to pay tribute to the best artisans around the world. .
The first creation was presented in the Fall/Winter 2020-2021 runway show, a collaboration between Fendi artisans and craftspeople at the Florentine atelier Peroni in Tuscany. In the skilled hands of Peroni artisans, the Baguette is fashioned from a single seamless piece of molded vegetal-tanned leather with no stitches from bag to buckle, using an impressive traditional technique known as cuoio artistico fiorentino. The different Italian regions each contribute distinctive savoir-faire while sharing a passion for traditional craftsmanship and skillful handmade creations.
In Veneto, “Hand in Hand” spotlights time-honored craft. Working with Venetian artisans at Bevilacqua, which has been making jacquard for five centuries, Fendi goes back in time. The fabric is woven by hand on 18th century wooden looms by artisans who meticulously create a rich floral brocade motif, producing just a few centimeters per day. An interlaced satin strap and a buckle sculpted in jasper with lizard details further elevate the jacquard. The absolutely breathtaking result is an ode to patient talent, to experience, and to the historic beauty of Venice.
The latest exhibition at the New York Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute traces a century and a half of fashion. About Time: Fashion and Duration, will be on show until February 7th, after a five month delayed opening from May due to the coronavirus.
The Costume Institute’s 2020 exhibition traces a century and a half of fashion—from 1870 to the present—along a disruptive timeline, on the occasion of The Met’s 150th anniversary. Employing Henri Bergson’s concept of la durée (duration), it explores how clothes generate temporal associations that conflate past, present, and future. Virginia Woolf serves as the “ghost narrator” of the exhibition.
All of the garments are black to emphasize changes in silhouette, except at the conclusion of the show, where a white dress from Viktor & Rolf’s spring/summer 2020 haute couture collection, made from upcycled swatches in a patchwork design, serves as a symbol for the future of fashion with its emphasis on community, collaboration, and sustainability.
Stone Island’s latest hooded jacket release is made from suede sheepskin, manually sprayed for a cloudy effect. Part of the garment and the Stone Island logo are protected from the spraying to achieve a graphic effect, with an opaque overprint placed.