On February 13th, 2019 ISKO hosted the “Responsible Denim” event to share knowledge and experiences on the development of an integrated field-to-fabric approach all along the value chain. An occasion to think about what choices can be made to give shape to a greener and better future.
Highlights of the event that took place in Paris, at 47 Rue des Tournelles, were:
-A special panel to talk about how the denim industry can become more responsible.
-A Responsible Denim Presentation by Lambert + Associates
-A presentation of ISKO Earth Fit, ISKO’s lowest-impact denim collection.
-An educational exhibition with a strong focus on what everyone – brands, designers as well as manufacturers – should be aware of regarding responsibility in the industry.
-The launch of the third Eyether collection, created by Creative Room and François Girbaud with innovative ISKO fabrics.
As the industry still appears to be facing a lot of “greenwashing”, it is important to take a stance in order to achieve the implementation of definite best practices. ISKO brought together five industry experts to provide insight that could help brands make informed decisions concerning responsible products. ISKO commitment towards Responsible Innovation is a longstanding one, deeply rooted in the company DNA. This approach has led ISKO to play a major role in supporting and pushing the industry to raise the bar. During the event, a Responsible Denim Exhibition was featured, intended to shed light on ISKO’s efforts and on the tools deemed essential for the fulfilment of a truly responsible denim vision.
At the 28th edition of Milano Unica, the Italian Textile and Accessories Exhibition, held at Fiera Milano Rho from 5 to 7 February, together with the number of exhibitors (421) similar to the one recorded in February 2018, a substantial confirmation was also confirmed of the number of visiting companies, both Italian and foreign, which were around 6,000. The attendance of Chinese companies was down due to the concomitance of the celebrations of their New Year, to a large extent recovered from the Korean presences and Japanese and the overall good performance of European presences. A result that, considering the general trend of the textile-clothing fairs, confirms the rightness of the choice of the advance in July also as a tow for the winter edition.
During the ceremony the ‘e-milanounica’ project was also presented, the marketplace launched in a pilot version that will be fully operational for the July 2019 edition. The initiative, thanks to the system partnership with Pitti Immagine, pursues the objective to promote the textile-clothing-fashion by extending digital the traditional activities of the fair, through marketing, content and promotion, allowing companies and their customers a constant updating throughout the year.
“The organizational effort, more and more aimed at making Milano Unica an essential appointment in the international panorama of textile fairs, has found a general positive feedback from buyers and exhibitors – said Massimo Mosiello, General Manager of Milano Unica, at the operational guide of the event textile-accessories since the first edition -. Upstream of this result there has not only been an important selection process aimed at guaranteeing high levels of quality of the collections presented, but also the accurate ways in which we have been able to present the various thematic areas and content projects. This work is the fruit of a great team game put in place at the system level, made possible by the indispensable support of the Ministry of Economic Development and the extraordinary collaboration of ICE. A result to which we must also give credit to the commitment lavished by the staff and collaborators of Milano Unica. A special thanks, finally to Japan Fashion Week for the original thematic evening dedicated to the tenth presence of the Japan Observatory in Milan.”
HUB 1922 is born, the new subsidiary company of RUDOLF GmbH. It will be based in Busto Arsizio near Milan, the capital of Italian fashion.
RUDOLF GmbH has been a leader in the textile chemicals industry for 100 years. The decision to open HUB 1922 has a specific objective: to give life to collaborations with brands and international retailers. And through product innovation, give space to new ideas and useful functionalities at the crossroads of Italian fashion: Milan.
The task of HUB 1922 is to research and develop innovation primarily for the garment processing industry, denim and beyond. And it will do so with the introduction of its own exclusive elements of diversity: deep scientific knowledge, true environmental responsibility, technical innovation and creativity.
«The strategic intent is to introduce a whole new approach that embraces both product and concept development. An extraordinarily robust R&D centre that is also a novel marketing and communication channel» says Dr. Wolfgang Anton Schumann, Managing Director of RUDOLF GMBH. He continues: «HUB1922 can count on RUDOLF’s global service, manufacturing, sales and distribution networks as a secure and transparent global fulfilment partner for brands/retailers and their supply chain partners».
«The idea is to start pursuing ideas that are conscious, necessary and useful» says Alberto De Conti, Head of Fashion Division at RUDOLF Group. «If they meet all those criteria, we won’t hesitate to make them beautiful». He continues: «Emphasis is put on listening attentively to the market and on engineering solutions proactively, even before being prompted».
Nowadays science plays an irreplaceable role in society: fashion research should focus more on scientific research. HUB 1922 is born for this. To get away from consolidated industrial processes from an industrial point of view, but increasingly incompatible with the environmental point of view. And to give space to every opportunity that can change the state of things and give things a new state: the quality of the product.
The bi-anual event Magic, by UBM, which takes the US fashion industry to Las Vegas has started with many visitors pouring in. Magic now combines multiple fashion trade shows under one roof. Asides the classic menswear collections in Project and (the more premium lines) in The Tents, one can also discover exciting womenswear lines from all over the world at Project Womens.
This season Project Womens partners with the Conscious Fashion Campaign supported by the United Nation Office for Partnership to drive sustainable development goals set by the United Nations. For this occasion, Project Womens has also published a special lookbook to raise awareness: “We are honored to continue leverage our platform and audience to propel the mission of the Conscious Fashion Campaign supported by the United Nations,” shares President of Womenswear, Danielle Licata. “We are proud to amplify this partnership with first-ever PROJECT WOMENS look book created by Egyptian-Australian dancer and content creator, Mimi El-Ashiry that features several Conscious Fashion labels as well as Australian labels in an exquisite setting.”
WeAr’s team is once again at the Magic shows and reports here live about the brands and booths.
Black Orchid creates a fresh wind in LA’s denim scene
LA based brand Chasor stays on top for tops
Scotch & Soda surprises with a cool booth
Johnny Was shows a very L.A. collection
L.A. based brand Rails shows its collection
Cool for dudes – Robert Graham also launched a womenswear collection last year
Project Womens has special decoration
Hats can also be found at Magic
…as can accessories and cool items for concept stores
Hunting World, the 54-year-old brand collaborates with Ben Eine, a street artist based in London renowned worldwide, regarded as a pioneer in the exploration of graffiti letterforms and for his projects with fashion brands. The collaboration was revealed during the FW2019 fashion week and included T-shirts, hoodies, caps as well as HUNTING WORLD’s iconic bags and small leather goods.
“The understated timeless style of Hunting World luggage makes the perfect canvas for EINE artwork. It brings a whole new meaning to The Elephant in the Room, interpreting the signature logos and symbols of both brands and creating complimentary contemporary products that will be deemed future classics.” Ben Eine
Launch dates of Hunting World x Eine London collaboration will be announced soon.
The international textile and fashion industry kicks off the 2020 Spring/Summer season of Munich Fabric Start. More than 1,000 fabrics, additionals, denim & sportswear suppliers exhibited their latest product and trend developments in 1,800 collections from 29th to 31st January 2019 at the MOC Munich and in the Zenith Area.
They were complemented by a growing number of service and sourcing providers as well as young brands and start-ups that presented their philosophies and the ideology of forward-looking process solutions as well as solutions for resource-saving material sourcing and their areas of application.
This dynamic and mutually inspiring exhibitor structure brought about one of the most important international trade fair platforms for sourcing materials and in-depth networking and, hence, for linking fashion with technology with a view to shaping the future.
In terms of trend concepts for 2020 this future is characterised by emotionality, empathy and community. This is expressed by WHAT IS LOVE as a source of inspiration – passionate, playful, pragmatic. Spring.Summer 20 indulges in a rich choice of fabrics, in innovative silhouettes, in philosophical wealth but also in tongue-in-cheek kitsch and – last not least – a new lightness at heart, which is never entirely uncritical.
The ReSOURCE segment is MUNICH FABRIC START’s enhanced sourcing platform flagging up new dimensions of sustainability for an innovative and future-oriented production. This is how a forum initiated and supported by experts was established that offers comprehensive sustainability solutions. Boasting over 500 articles ReSOURCEshowcases the latest developments in sustainable fabrics and findings as well as innovations in the categories: RECYCLED | ORGANIC / NATURAL | REGENERATED CELLULOSICS | INNOVATIVE (HYBRIDS & BIOPLASTICS) | LEATHER & ALTERNATIVES | DENIM | GOTS.
Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding, one of the leading textile and apparel companies in China, announced that it has completed its acquisition of INVISTA’s Apparel & Advanced Textiles business. The transaction includes all associated assets and contracts.
The new company will operate as The LYCRA Company, an independent subsidiary, and will continue to manufacture advanced fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and hygiene industries. The LYCRA Company is named for LYCRA fiber, the original spandex/elastane fiber and the company’s best-known product.
“We are fortunate to be purchased by Ruyi, a company that shares our vision and our commitment to delivering high-quality products, technical expertise, and unmatched marketing support to our valued customers,” said Dave Trerotola, chief executive officer, The LYCRA Company. “With the continued investment of Ruyi, we look forward to working with our customers to bring exciting innovations to market. Our new shareholder’s textile and retail experience will be a tremendous asset as we develop differentiated fibers that deliver the lasting performance benefits consumers have come to know and expect from our brands.”
“We are thrilled to acquire The LYCRA Company and will continue to invest in its innovation pipeline and brands in order to reach our objectives for business growth,” said Yafu Qiu, chairman of the board of Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding. “As a spandex producer ourselves, we have admired the iconic LYCRA® brand for years, and we see the value The LYCRA Company adds to our business. We believe its assets and capabilities are a perfect complement to our own and will help strengthen our position as a world-class, fully-integrated textile company.”
For summer ’19, BARTS is going back to the beach. The brand’s summer collection will be extended with swimwear for men, women and kids, designed with creativity and produced with the quality standards that you are used to from Barts. The collection includes bikinis and bathing suits for women and girls as well as swim shorts for men and boys. It’s the answer to a common problem of their customer: there seems to be no qualitative, sparkling swimwear collection that fits well ánd is friendly to your wallet-Until now. The collection includes classic Breton stripes, leopard prints and beautiful trend colours. Of course sun hats, kaftans, (beach) bags and towels are also back.
Kelly Wieck, responsible designer for this new launch, had been searching for a high quality swimwear brand for a long time. Born and raised in Australia, she was kind of spoiled with all the best swimwear brands. Here in Europe, she never really found a competing brand. Now that Barts has developed a solid summer collection, it’s time to complete it. And that’s how Barts swimwear was born. Starting point was combining quality and fit from Australia within a price range that’s corresponding to Barts. Kelly is proud with the results: “I really wanted a premium collection based on high quality fabric and materials. I love the beach and surf lifestyle. If it were up to me, I’d live in a bikini!” Barts targets a young, self-assured woman, but the age group can be much wider – like you’re used to from Barts. Expect beautiful bathing suits, sexy triangle bikini’s, but also wire cups. In addition, there are bottoms for every figure: from high cut briefs to hipster bottoms with a wider brim. The designs are versatile: beautiful florals, leopard prints, Breton stripes and chic solids. Commercially strong, but distinctive.”
The Only at TRANOÏ operation presents simultaneously a selection of 25 capsule collections only available at TRANOÏ Paris for buyers and also a limited choice from these same collections, presented exclusively at Galeries Lafayette for end customers, from January 16 to February 4 2019. Among the 150 participating brands, 25 of them are showcasing a 20-piece capsule next January. Only available in Paris, for buyers, in an immersive itinerary, at the Palais Brongniart, the historical TRANOÏ location. At the same time a selection of these limited edition pieces will immediately be released for sale at the 1st floor of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, within a ONLY AT TRANOÏ corner designed by Studio Avoir – Arthur Van Peteghem.
To create a strong and lasting link between designer, buyer and final customer is one of the major challenges of tomorrow’s retail industry. ONLY AT TRANOÏ is part of this dynamic combining BtoB and BtoC in a project on the scale of Paris.
By placing exclusivity at the heart of its approach, this operation allows buyers and customers to discover new collections first and only in Paris.
During our visit to the Tommy Hilfiger denim lab in Amsterdam we got to know more about this workshop laboratorium where denim is constantly tested and treated with several techniques such as laser printing, dry-washing and various colour treatments. The lab is used internally by the brand to develop new fits and also give workshops externally. There is a huge focus on sustainability throughout!