The board of directors of the Fédération de la haute couture et de la Mode have cancelled Paris Men’s Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week with coronavirus which continues to halt international travel and plague France. Just today, the country’s prime minister warned of an extremely high surge in coronavirus cases.
Paris Men’s was originally scheduled to take place from June 23 to June 28, and Haute Couture was originally scheduled for July 5 to July 9. Designers are currently looking for alternative ways to showcase their collections.
A press release “In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, strong decisions are required to ensure the safety and health of Houses, their employees and everyone working in our industry. Consequently, the Board of Directors of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has come to the decision that, in the present conditions, the Paris Fashion Week® Menswear, scheduled from June 23rd to June 28th, 2020, and the Haute Couture Week scheduled from July 5 to July 9, 2020, cannot take place”
Chanel joined the likes of Gucci in stopping production for the short-term amongst the global coronavirus outbreak. The company is closing factories in France, Switzerland, and Italy for the next two weeks.
“Chanel took the decision, in accordance with the latest government instructions, to close the entirety of its production sites in France, Italy and Switzerland [watchmaking] as well as its haute couture, ready-to-wear, métiers d’art and jewelry,” the company said in a statement.
Due to the increasing spread of the coronavirus and on the basis of the recommendation of the Bavarian State Government and the responsible health authorities, Messe München has cancelled OutDoor by ISPO 2020. This step was carried out in consultation with the industry association EOG (European Outdoor Group) and is responsible for the health of exhibitors and visitors. The next OutDoor by ISPO will take place in summer 2021.
Mark Held, President of the EOG: “The corona pandemic presents the outdoor industry with previously unknown challenges. We have decided that a cancellation of OutDoor by ISPO 2020 frees up valuable resources in the companies that they can use to support employees, retailers and other stakeholders along the supply chain. The more we do now to protect everyone involved, the better off we will be after this crisis. Once the crisis has been overcome, OutDoor by ISPO 2021 will provide an important platform for the entire industry and set standards for the economic comeback. ”
Our brand-new issue 62 of WeAr Magazine is now out! Featuring Trends, Brands, Designers, Lookbook, Retail Tips, Bestseller & Denim Specials, Fiber Report & more…
WeAr’s editorial team has attended the all-important shows this season and filtered out the best-of-the-best for you, in case you have been unable to travel.
Use our Lookbook to get seasonal inspiration. Look up these fantastic brands and dare to order directly from them. If your customers can buy online, so can you! Need an extra confidence boost?
We have compiled another one of our Bestseller Specials where we interviewed showrooms and retailers worldwide about what is hot and where things are going. Take this as a guide to your buying choices.
Our Denim Special will help you navigate through the tough times. We have asked the movers and shakers of the industry to give us their ideas on storytelling through, and around, denim – they know a thing or two about surviving turbulence.
And for the rest of your needs, check out our reports, where we always aim to write about things that can improve your business.
Get the latest issue of WeAr Magazine | https://www.wearglobalnetwork.com/bookstore/
Now more than ever, it is time to focus on how to use tools to digitalise your store. Here are three providers that can help your store to function better.
Online shopping is ridden with customer uncertainty about whether an item will fit. Fitom mitigates this by displaying garments worn by a variety of people. It encourages users who have access to a retailer’s garments to try them on, photograph themselves and post their picture on the app; every post brings them points that can be exchanged for discounts. Users who don’t have access to the physical store, on the other hand, can get an idea of how garments look on real people by looking at these photos. The application is launching with the famous Japanese retailer United Arrows as its first partner and plans to expand to other brands towards the end of 2019.
POS, merchandise management, accounting and an online shop all in a single app: that is Inventorum. The app, available in German and English, runs on iPad, allowing retailers to complete the selling process with the customer anywhere in the store – a physical cash register is only needed to give change. The system is browser-based, which means the accountancy features, including a daily closing balance and electronic cash ledger, can also be accessed on a PC. With a click, you can add new products, check your inventory, introduce discounts and view customer history. The app is especially useful for sole proprietors, who can save time and money by digitizing their business processes. Fees can be paid either monthly or annually, and a two-week trial is offered free of charge.
Sarafan recognizes fashion products in photos and videos and finds similar items in online stores. Here is how it works: the app enters into partnerships with influencers and media outlets, on the one hand, and online retailers on the other. Affiliate influencers receive a code script to embed into their website/feed, which enables Sarafan’s algorithms to scan their images and detect items analogous to those offered by its affiliate stores. The app then places a link next to the post, inviting the viewer to shop and redirecting them straight to the retailer. The influencer/media receives commission from every transaction, the app gets paid for every transfer, and the store gets new custom. At present, over 150 retailers are using Sarafan.
In the APP-DATE section of WeAr reviews the best apps and software platforms used by retailers and brands. Some of them are available to all stores and markets; others are exclusive to one retailer or territory but will hopefully inspire others and help them keep abreast of changes in the digital fashion landscape.
Covid-19 has prevented many events from happening, this does not mean, however, that an event cannot take place online.
Shanghai Fashion Week has showed this by taking its catwalk in the Cloud and WeAr reports. Shanghai Fashion Week (SFW) has teamed up with Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba’s online marketplace Tmall to broadcast the agenda of runway shows online from March 24th – 30th on Taobao Live, which is Alibaba’s live-streaming channel. This has been done in an effort to make SFW accessible to buyers, media and the general public through digital innovation in face of the (almost world-wide) coronavirus lock-down. Online viewers were also meant to be able to directly place orders and interact with the hosts. Tmall is according to reports the biggest marketplace for businesses that live stream, this includes small to big labels. There are 400 virtual shopping rooms which roughly achieve monthly sales of USD$57 million. On the face of it, this is a powerful partner to team up with the fashion cowd. That said, viewer numbers ranged from 12k (FFIXXED) to 5k (Cornerstone by Sun Yun). Of course this is a first, honorable, attempt to digitalise a Fashion Week completely so it remains to be seen what the real outcomes are, mainly financially.
When people watch the SFW brands’ AW20 presentations they can buy through Tmall’s app, however important to note is that you can only buy the SS20 stock, which of course is in line of how fashion works. Buyers, of course, could simply contact the brand in case of interest.
The bigger problem is that whilst on mainland China it mainly worked well in terms of technology, outside of it, there are issues: starting from guidelines which were ambiguous, time differences which will not allow to see a live stream, to log-in issues to language barriers as Tmall is mainly in Mandarin and even with Chrome’s built in translation of websites, it is a tough one to get through it.
Whilst the intro videos are high-end, the presentations themselves of course are of lower quality. This of course speaks to the individual end-consumer, but does it reflect the general theme of fashion? At WeAr we believe that we need to find a way to better connect with the end-consumer, however the appeal of the industry must not be forgotten. As only then you can sell a high-end (and – priced) item.
In terms of demographics, it was of course squewed towards millenials and Gen Z viewers. However, this reflects also that it is mainly an end-consumer event and leaves little room for professional buyers. Although the stretch is not far to include him/her.
But: Are Fashion Weeks not there to inform the industry and the industry carries it then to the end-consumer, at a time when the end-consumer can actively purchase? To create the mystic, glamour and exclusivity around fashion so to awaken a need, desire in the consumer and ultimately the much-needed demand?
Other trade shows are of course also trying to take it digital: KingPins Amsterdam, the famed show for the denim industry, which unites fabric producers, mills, chemical companies and innovators to designers and brands was meant to take place this April. Instead it decided to launch a 2-day digital event to host talks and bring the industry together. They seem to place a focus on trend talks. The need to do something new is important, with or without the virus, events need to find a formula to digitalise their events.
However, this too is a novel concept and it must remain to be seen if the industry accepts it. After all factories are closed at the moment, brands had to close their operations. Even online retailers like Yoox, Net-a-Porter have closed their UK warehouse and halted deliveries to stop the spread of the virus. Is there a need to prepare right now for a season still far in the future, or is there a bigger need to adapt the fashion schedule to please manufacturers, designers, retailers and ultimately also the end-consumer who does not go on a shopping spree right now, on- or offline. But nothing beats a try and in the end, only if one dares one will succeed. The users and their feedback as well as monetary results will show the success rate.
WeAr will be monitoring the situation and revert with updates on www.wearglobalnetwork.com. It also filled its March edition (issue 62) with useful tips and information for buyers and brands, which is available to purchase digitally and in print in the bookstore of www.wearglobalnetwork.com. If you have any views, ideas and comments, please e-mail to email@example.com
Due to Covid-19 stores have to close and shoppers are in no buying mood, not even online. It is simply not fun to shop and not be able to wear something new outside your home. It is also not fun to hear of the dire situation and meanwhile go on a shopping spree. However, every crises offers chances.
We at WeAr spoke to countless retailers and brands and came to the following suggestion:
1) All delivered spring /summer items will be packed and stored for March/April 2021
We simply skip S/S 2020. Brands can still produce some “key-pieces”, but the bulk gets packed and stored and used for spring 2021.
The advantage of this scenario will be that retailers are not forced to heavily discount or even write-off merchandise, but can sell it to the regular price. Whatever won’t sell now, will be sold in a year.
Brands will lose one season of sales, but save a lot of their clients from dire financial situation and potentially bankruptcy, which ultimately will result in the client not being able to pay its brand-partners. All retailers have to pay for, is the interest and storage fees for 12 months.
Autumn winter could run as usual and losses would be minimized.To now force retailers to quickly get rid of stock with heavy discounts, will flood the market and not generate profit.
2) Shifting Sales Season
Trying to make the best out of the tragic situation should also trigger a new way seasons are currently handled by all participants from trade-shows, producers, brands to buyers.
It makes no sense to discount a pullover in the best time of winter, when consumers need warm clothing most. Instead, these items need to be discounted at the end of the winter, if at all.
3) Delivery of merchandise and shifts of Order Rounds
The entire system has to get re-booted. Winter should get delivered 6 weeks ahead of winter, not in summer, as we sometimes do. The same applies of course for spring/summer. Subsequently: Order Rounds should start for autumn/winter in February and March and for spring/summer early September.
If we would implement this mechanism, which used to be standard in the industry, merchandise can be sold quicker, cash-flow would be quicker, write-offs will be less. Win, win, win. This way the impact of Corona would be minimzed and offset by better bsuiness in the years to come.
Please let us know your thoughts and suggestions, as it’s time for a change.
Stay healthy and all the very best,
Yours WeAr Global Magazine team.
In lieu of the Coronavirus COVID-19 situation, DFO will be organizing a fully integrated online and offline showroom for its AW20 season.
For buyers who will not visit Shanghai, DFO will help them place orders via our online showroom. DFO will help brands create attractive video and image content and create dynamic brand experience digitally. In addition, China’s 5G technology will make DFO’s online experience enjoyable and convenient for buyers.
Via DFO’s own social media platforms and reaching out directly to China’s buyer pool, DFO will continue to create dedicated promotion for brands.
“The fashion industry in China will only be strong again if all of its participants support each other. With a fully integrated strategy spanning over one-month, we believe we will be able to help strengthen the fashion market in China, as well as our brands and retailers, through this challenging season.” – DFO
Eastman, the maker of sustainably sourced Naia cellulosic filament yarn, earlier in the year announced the expansion of its Naia fiber portfolio at Première Vision-Paris (PV), the international fashion and textile exposition. With the introduction of its new cellulosic staple fiber, Naia offers another versatile eco-conscious material choice for sustainable fashion.
“We are thrilled to expand our product offerings, and we have been working with a strong network of innovative spinner partners around the world to introduce our new NaiaTM cellulosic staple fiber,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “Working with our value chain partners, we’re facilitating quick and easy access to NaiaTM fibers for our mills, and ultimately brands, regardless of their location.”
Naia staple fiber has inherent softness, is quick drying and reduces pilling. It blends well with other eco-friendly materials, such as lyocell, modal and recycled polyester—to produce sustainable fabrics and garments that are ideal for everyday wear.
Eastman will be working with several best-in-class spinners worldwide to create Naia staple fiber, including Karacasu Tekstil in Turkey, Shandong Long Run Textile and Dezhou Huayuan Eco-Technology on Mainland China, Pratibha Syntex and RSWM Ltd. in India and Linz Textil in Austria. These industry-leading spinners blend NaiaTM staple fiber with other sustainable fibers to meet the needs of manufacturers across the globe.
Strenesse frees up resources to support regional companies in times of Corona. At the headquarters in Nördlingen, mouth and nose protection made from breathable cotton is produced in the Strenesse-own sewing shop with high-pressure aids. In particular, employees in the food retail sector who guarantee basic care but are not taken into account in the state supply chain should benefit from this.
The makeshift mouth and nose protection can also be found via the online store www.strenesse.com. The reusable protective masks are made of 100% skin-friendly cotton, which is washable up to 90 degrees,
“In these difficult times we have to stick together and we are happy to have found a way to support our fellow human beings. My special thanks go to our employees on site who made this project possible with such commitment. ”Said Micaela Sabatier, Managing Director of the Nördlinger fashion company.